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  1. #1
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    At last...my Jekyll is quite again.

    Finally, the darn thing has been so noisy lately and I've had a ***** of a time isolating the noise. (Chainrings, seatpost, pivots, bars, stays, cranks, etc.) I always though it was the BB but I got confirmation on Saturday. I bought my 03 Jekyll about 4 months ago, used, from a guy who built it from the frame. It's a 1000 model with XTR everything, a RS Psylo SL front fork, mavic 317's, Hayes hydro's, Scapel 3000 hubs, etc. I got a great bike but the noise...ahhh...the noise just kept getting worse, (wasn't there when I bought it). Every pedel stroke, the creeking and poping drove me crazy.

    Soooo...I ended up taking a comprehensive bike maintenence and repair class at REI on Saturday (yes, I'm knew to bike repair and wanted to learn something- the bike tech there is really cool) and pulled out the BB. Low and behold, the BB shell was caked with sand, dirt, grease, metal shavings, and who knows what else. I have know idea how all the crap got in there, but needless to say, it's all cleaned out and the bike is finally quiet. The BB itself was fine (XTR) and is still very smooth. Seriously though, is that normal to get a bunch of dirt and crap in the BB shell? I would think it should seal up a little better and not allow everything and the kitchen sink in. The dust seals looked fine- I'm at a loss.

    Now I just have to figure out my brake issue. After truing the wheels, and the front brake rotor, I still get some pretty significant drag. I tried depressing the pistons back in the calipers as far as I could, but the inside pad still drags after working the brakes a few times. Also, the front brake lever feels hard and now offers little modulation upon braking. It also seems to get "stiffer" after prolonged braking. I'm thinking I may have to bleed the system but really don't want to as I've never done it before...on a bike that is. Anyone else have any ideas?

    I wasn't crazy about the Psylo fork at first, (wanted a lefty), but I do enjoy the adjustable travel. Perhaps one day, I'll get a lefty and try that out as well, who knows.

    Oh...threw the bike up on a scale at REI as well... looked like it's right at 28lbs. Not bad for 5 inches front and back. Would be even lighter with a lefty.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by SADJ
    Finally, the darn thing has been so noisy lately and I've had a ***** of a time isolating the noise. (Chainrings, seatpost, pivots, bars, stays, cranks, etc.) I always though it was the BB but I got confirmation on Saturday. I bought my 03 Jekyll about 4 months ago, used, from a guy who built it from the frame. It's a 1000 model with XTR everything, a RS Psylo SL front fork, mavic 317's, Hayes hydro's, Scapel 3000 hubs, etc. I got a great bike but the noise...ahhh...the noise just kept getting worse, (wasn't there when I bought it). Every pedel stroke, the creeking and poping drove me crazy.

    Soooo...I ended up taking a comprehensive bike maintenence and repair class at REI on Saturday (yes, I'm knew to bike repair and wanted to learn something- the bike tech there is really cool) and pulled out the BB. Low and behold, the BB shell was caked with sand, dirt, grease, metal shavings, and who knows what else. I have know idea how all the crap got in there, but needless to say, it's all cleaned out and the bike is finally quiet. The BB itself was fine (XTR) and is still very smooth. Seriously though, is that normal to get a bunch of dirt and crap in the BB shell? I would think it should seal up a little better and not allow everything and the kitchen sink in. The dust seals looked fine- I'm at a loss.

    Now I just have to figure out my brake issue. After truing the wheels, and the front brake rotor, I still get some pretty significant drag. I tried depressing the pistons back in the calipers as far as I could, but the inside pad still drags after working the brakes a few times. Also, the front brake lever feels hard and now offers little modulation upon braking. It also seems to get "stiffer" after prolonged braking. I'm thinking I may have to bleed the system but really don't want to as I've never done it before...on a bike that is. Anyone else have any ideas?

    I wasn't crazy about the Psylo fork at first, (wanted a lefty), but I do enjoy the adjustable travel. Perhaps one day, I'll get a lefty and try that out as well, who knows.

    Oh...threw the bike up on a scale at REI as well... looked like it's right at 28lbs. Not bad for 5 inches front and back. Would be even lighter with a lefty.
    Nice to hear you found the noise and solved it. For your brakes. I had same issue with drag like your stating, and what I did was just sand down the pads with some sand paper and cleaned them with soft cloth and cleaned my disc with alcohol. You might also want to get them bleed as well. Walla my the fix worked. My buddy is big time mechanic and he's is always drilling me with tips so I can learn as well. The lefty you will love big time (Great Fork). I have the DLR and really love it, getting it rebuild this winter. For the rear shock the Fox RL is nice but I'm in the process of getting a 2005 Manitou Swinger 3-Way SPV . My bike is coming together slowly but surely. Enjoy your Jekyll and ride the hell out of it. I like mine!

  3. #3
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    What type of brakes?

    Quote Originally Posted by SADJ

    Now I just have to figure out my brake issue. After truing the wheels, and the front brake rotor, I still get some pretty significant drag. I tried depressing the pistons back in the calipers as far as I could, but the inside pad still drags after working the brakes a few times. Also, the front brake lever feels hard and now offers little modulation upon braking. It also seems to get "stiffer" after prolonged braking. I'm thinking I may have to bleed the system but really don't want to as I've never done it before...on a bike that is. Anyone else have any ideas?

    .

    Are they new? how old are the pads? Have you tried cleaning the pistons? Take out the pads, press the lever so that the pistons extend (not too far, now). From there, squirt the pistons with windex glass cleaer. Clean the caliper up with Q-tips, and work the pistons in and out a couple of times. Worked like a charm on my 4 yo Hayes mags.

    Be VERY gentile with the pistons.
    gfy

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by damion
    Are they new? how old are the pads? Have you tried cleaning the pistons? Take out the pads, press the lever so that the pistons extend (not too far, now). From there, squirt the pistons with windex glass cleaer. Clean the caliper up with Q-tips, and work the pistons in and out a couple of times. Worked like a charm on my 4 yo Hayes mags.

    Be VERY gentile with the pistons.
    The brakes are about 1 1/2 years old. The pads are worn down a bit and maybe have 20% life left. I'll try cleaning the pistons and calipers today before I ride, but from the way the brake lever feels, I think I might have some air in the system. Easy things first though. Thanks for the tip.

  5. #5
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    A couple of things.

    Quote Originally Posted by SADJ
    The brakes are about 1 1/2 years old. The pads are worn down a bit and maybe have 20% life left. I'll try cleaning the pistons and calipers today before I ride, but from the way the brake lever feels, I think I might have some air in the system. Easy things first though. Thanks for the tip.

    What type of brakes?


    After todays ride, replace the pads after resetting the pistons. You may want to sand the pads slightly on a flat surface.

    Hit the lever a couple of times to set the gap, and zip tie the levers to the bars for the night. (tight to the bars.) Tap the hose a few times with a pen along it's length while the lever is zipped to the bars.

    This will force any air to the master cylinder.
    gfy

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by damion
    What type of brakes?


    After todays ride, replace the pads after resetting the pistons. You may want to sand the pads slightly on a flat surface.

    Hit the lever a couple of times to set the gap, and zip tie the levers to the bars for the night. (tight to the bars.) Tap the hose a few times with a pen along it's length while the lever is zipped to the bars.

    This will force any air to the master cylinder.
    I'll have to get back to you regarding the exact model of Hayes.

    I'll certainly try the cleaning routine, and the zip-tie thing as well. The rear brake works fine thankfully. I'll be sure and get some new pads ASAP though as these are no doubt pretty worn.

    I assume there's a benifit to getting the air to the master cylinder but wouldn't the air still be in the system and eventually cause havok again? Again, I appreciate your help.

  7. #7
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    Not important.

    Quote Originally Posted by SADJ
    I'll have to get back to you regarding the exact model of Hayes.

    I assume there's a benifit to getting the air to the master cylinder but wouldn't the air still be in the system and eventually cause havok again? Again, I appreciate your help.
    The model does not matter. I am using Mags from 4 years ago, and they are going strong.

    As far as I am aware, If the zip tie trick works, you are good to go. I use it as a test to see if a re-bleed is needed. If there is a tiny amout of air in the fluid, the master cylinder will be able to deal with it. If the brakes keep doing the same thing after you replace the pads, clean the rotor, and zip tie the levers, you need a bleed kit. Once they are set up, they are bulletproof.
    gfy

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