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  1. #1
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    Jekyll Carbon V Rize Sizing

    I have just been informed that i'm to get a Carbon Jekyll frame as a warranty replacement for my Carbon Rize that developed some hair line cracks around the top tube ( I plan on posting a thread about this once the warranty has been resolved).

    Having never sat on, let alone seen a Jekyll in real life, I'm wondering if some Jekyll owners can comment on how they have found the sizing of the bike.

    My Carbon Rize was a Large, and found it a good fit. I'm 6'2" (189cm), but have always preferred the feel of slightly smaller frames then what Geo charts often suggest i should be riding.

    I would be much appreciated if some Jekyll owners could give their own personal views on how they found the fit and sizing of their Jekyll's, and has anyone gone from a Rize / Rz platform to a Jekyll? Have you found their fit and sizing to be like for like ?

    Thanks..

    Charlie

  2. #2
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    Nobody?

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    So I'm not a Jekyll owner...yet! Going in to pick mine up at the end of this week hopefully. Having sat on and test ridden the bike though, I definitely think the frames have a larger feel to them. I usually ride a 19inch bike, but the medium size Jekyll seemed to fit me best.

    Anyway, hope that helps in some way!

    Good Luck with the new bike!

  4. #4
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    Thanks so much for your reply, any info is much appreciated . I'm in a tricky situation, as im getting a Jekyll frame sent as the replacement for my Rize, and so far i have not been able to find a dealer with any in stock in the UK that will let me demo them.

  5. #5
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    Own a 09 Rize 1 and a Jekyll Ultimate. Both larges. As for sizing the larges are very similar. What are you going to do for a front fork? Also, front derailleur is a direct mount, rear hub is 142x12 (may be adapter for 135mm hubs) but I suspect this may cost you more than you expect...not a simple component swap...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkestar View Post
    Own a 09 Rize 1 and a Jekyll Ultimate. Both larges. As for sizing the larges are very similar. What are you going to do for a front fork? Also, front derailleur is a direct mount, rear hub is 142x12 (may be adapter for 135mm hubs) but I suspect this may cost you more than you expect...not a simple component swap...

    Hey, thanks for your post. I'm glad to hear you find the large sizes are fairly close. Do you find the the body positioning similar also? For me, the Rize was a rather racy body positioning for AM bike. Is the Jekyll the same or more relaxed and up-right?

    Your right, i have known since being told im getting a Jekyll that quite a few things are not going to be able to be swapped over, and the only cure will be to spend the penny's.

    My Carbon Rize was a Euro model, and was equipped with 140mm Talas 32's, with a 1,1/8 steerer.
    1.5 to 1 1/8 reducers are available (the reducer headset from my Rize may fit?) so i plan to just use my old Talas with a reducer headset on the Jekyll to start with.

    I will most likely get a 2012 Talas 150mm at some point.

    I was told by the UK distributor that a rear brake mount and a X-12 rear axle will be supplied with the frame, and i have decided to build a compete new wheelset, but still not decided on how light i want to or how much i want to spend.
    I'm currently thinking Tune Hubs, Notubes ZTR Arch or Crest rims and Sapim CX Ray spokes.
    And I also have still to decide if i will fit 2.2 or 2.4 tyres.

    I have read on other threads that the Front Mech is an E-Type direct mount, do you know if that's correct?

    Evans Cycles, the dealer overseeing the warranty has told me that they will be wanting to charge me a minimum of 120 ( $190), just for the basic labour for rebuilding the bike (I thought i had a warranty????), so the plan is to build it up myself, which is not a problem as i have the tools anyway.
    Last edited by chick0; 09-06-2011 at 09:11 PM.

  7. #7
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    On my Rize I swapped the stock stem and put a shorter stem with more rise on so my Rize was more like the stock Jekyll. If your Rize was stock with regards to stem then you'll probably find you will be in a more upright riding position on the Jekyll.

    What is good about the Jekyll is the DYAD. It really delivers on the hype. I go in elevate mode and lock the Talas out and it climbs better than the Rize. For descending I found that I have to run the pressures a few notches lower on the setup that Fox recommends for my weight.

    I recommend one thing to consider and that is the cranks. If you can afford them get Hollowgrams. Mine came with XX rings and I got a 3x spider off ebay so I can run a 22/32/BashRing. Simple to swap out since you just swap spiders and rings in one shot. So if you are riding really steep single track you can get super low gearing.

    You will love the Jekyll. I pull my Rize out every once in a while and the Jekyll is way more stiff and the Rize feels like a wet noodle in comparison. I'd never go back.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkestar View Post
    On my Rize I swapped the stock stem and put a shorter stem with more rise on so my Rize was more like the stock Jekyll. If your Rize was stock with regards to stem then you'll probably find you will be in a more upright riding position on the Jekyll.

    What is good about the Jekyll is the DYAD. It really delivers on the hype. I go in elevate mode and lock the Talas out and it climbs better than the Rize. For descending I found that I have to run the pressures a few notches lower on the setup that Fox recommends for my weight.

    I recommend one thing to consider and that is the cranks. If you can afford them get Hollowgrams. Mine came with XX rings and I got a 3x spider off ebay so I can run a 22/32/BashRing. Simple to swap out since you just swap spiders and rings in one shot. So if you are riding really steep single track you can get super low gearing.

    You will love the Jekyll. I pull my Rize out every once in a while and the Jekyll is way more stiff and the Rize feels like a wet noodle in comparison. I'd never go back.
    I also had a modified cockpit on my Rize. I rode with a 15 deg - 70mm stem, and 20mm high rise 710mm wide bars.
    I remember the 70mm stem transformed the handling of the bike, and i later add the bars as i found I wanted just a little more height at the front for descending.
    I'm now thinking that this same set up might be a bit to high on the Jekyll. I guess i will just have to experiment with it.

    I had the older Si carbon arm BB30 cranks on my Rize, and i was planning on just keeping them for now, as they are only about 100 grams more then Hollowgrams, and seem plenty stiff (although not in the hollowgrams stiffness league, but they do cost $1280 over here,!).
    I was planning on using my 3x9 X0 set up, as its virtually brand new, but i do like idea of adding a bash-ring, so i will look into that .

    Could you tell me if their is now a way to know how much travel you are using with the DYAD? I know the pre-production bikes had an indicator fitted to one of the pivots, but has their been any final solution added to the production bikes?

    Receiving/buying a frame i have not ridden (let alone never seen) is a totally new experience for me, as i normally demo a ridiculous amount of frames and bikes over and over before deciding on what i buy.
    I also normally stay away from bikes with complex proprietary parts like the DYAD ( i have always avoided Leftys, as they have poor technical support and parts stocks in the UK).

    But i have been following the Jekyll ( and Claymores) reviews, video's and threads quite closely ever since the bike was announced, so i'm rather excited about finally getting to ride one, ride one that's mine . And if its as stiff as its looks, and as you and all the reports say it is, then im sure im going to love it.

  9. #9
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    I believe the later shipped Jekyll's come with a sag indicator. Mine didn't I just got it set up through trial and error. I believe the SAG is recommended at between 33 - 40%. I think mine is probably closer to 50% now. Here's a link to the Fox reference...

    Dyad RT2 Reference

  10. #10
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    Thanks for all the info dkestar.

    I had already bookmarked the Fox DYAD page after seeing it on another thread. I think its best to not think to much about the amount of pressures in the this shock

    Does the remote actuation lever leaver look as ugly in real life as it doe in pictures? The pre-production switch looked much more sleek, any idea why it was dropped ?


  11. #11
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    The production version of the DYAD remote looks like an old school pre-index shifter. I don't think its too bad. I thought I read somewhere that they changed it since you need a bit of leverage to move it but who knows maybe the first version was way too expensive to manufacture. Those pics of the previous incarnation of it do make it seem that it would be easy to activate it compared to the new version.

  12. #12
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    That is a ton of pressure in the shock.

    I would love to know what you get when they replace your frame with a different model. I love my Moto Carbon, and wonder what would happen if it needed replacement. I guess it might be an easier switch for me as I have a 115mm-160mm adjustable Lyrik and 12mm Thru axle rear wheel already. It is a pity they killed off the RIZE 140 and Moto so quickly. My Moto is actually a very capable bike, and I swear it weighs the same as my XC bike, or at least that is how it feels when I pick them up.
    I see the light at the end of the tunnel now,
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkestar View Post
    The production version of the DYAD remote looks like an old school pre-index shifter. I don't think its too bad. I thought I read somewhere that they changed it since you need a bit of leverage to move it but who knows maybe the first version was way too expensive to manufacture. Those pics of the previous incarnation of it do make it seem that it would be easy to activate it compared to the new version.
    I will certainly leave my final opinion on the looks of the new remote switch until i see it in the flesh. But it does have the look of "after thought" about it, especially compared with the pre-production version.
    I think this leaver sticks out for me due to how good the all the other detailing is on the Jekyll.

    The frames i have seen in pictures look to have a fit and finish in a totally different league to my old Rize.

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