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  1. #1
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    How to split the telescope on a lefty DLR 2

    Hi,

    I have a DLR2 Lefy and I want to put in new races an new needle bearings. However, how can I take apart the upper part from lower par form the telescope.

    I have older versions of lefty's also and I see that the DLR2 looks quite different.

    I have already removed the cartridge. I see in the shaft that the races are not held together by a circlip that can be removed with the diggler tool. I see that two races are slightly longer and that the need to be pushed aside, then extend the fork to the maximum and it will come apart.

    I tried using the diggler tool but nosuccess. It is as if the diggler tool cannot push the races apart enough. If I extend the fork to the max, the diggler tool is inserted too much, so that I do not have enough space to trun it. What I do now is compress, insert and turn the diggler and then extend, in the hope it will come apart. But up to now, no success....

    Can anyone give me some tips on how to take it apart?

    Mendon ,if you read this....

  2. #2
    mad aussie
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    At the top I found it easiest to push the races aside with 4 cut bladed spokes and them use another shaped like a hook to remove the clip that holds them together. The diggler tool sucked to remove them IMO.

    Kevin

  3. #3
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    You don't need the diggler to remove a race clip on a dlr2. You need it only to hold the outer races in place during outer steerer removal. What is going on at the bottom end of the outer leg? Is it a cap that you can unscrew? Or is it just smooth aluminum all the way to the end?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith
    You don't need the diggler to remove a race clip on a dlr2. You need it only to hold the outer races in place during outer steerer removal. What is going on at the bottom end of the outer leg? Is it a cap that you can unscrew? Or is it just smooth aluminum all the way to the end?
    Mendon, on the end it is a aircap that I can unsrew. I suppose you know enough to tell me the secret about taking this baby apart?

    When I look inside the fork, it is as if two of the four races are a bit longer than the rest. I think pushing them apart might do the trick. I used the diggler but no success... The lefty needs new bearings and races, they are rusted beyond recognition...

    Regards,

    Sven

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmOScalpel
    Mendon, on the end it is a aircap that I can unsrew. I suppose you know enough to tell me the secret about taking this baby apart?
    Plenty of secrets, muwhahahahahahahahahha Nope, I'm talking about the lower end of the upper, outer tube. Remember, it's an upper tube, sliding down over a lower, inner one. This area is concealed by the top end of your boot, when the bike is in an upright position. Cut the upper boot ziptie, (not the little breather hole shower cap boot) Screw-cap, or nothing?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  6. #6
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    Info

    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith
    Plenty of secrets, muwhahahahahahahahahha Nope, I'm talking about the lower end of the upper, outer tube. Remember, it's an upper tube, sliding down over a lower, inner one. This area is concealed by the top end of your boot, when the bike is in an upright position. Cut the upper boot ziptie, (not the little breather hole shower cap boot) Screw-cap, or nothing?
    Hi Mendon,

    I got the info you need. If you mean that on the end of the the outer/upper shaft there a are two half moons held tohether by two small screws....those hold the outer races in place. No this is not the case... that system I know, I have already opened several of those.

    The lefty I have to service now look like this. The outer/upper shaft has no screw at the end. The carbon just gets wider (triangular shape) at the end and stops.

    So to answer you question... NOTHING!

    Regards,

    Sven

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmOScalpel
    So to answer you question... NOTHING!
    Okay, now we're getting somewhere! There is a cir-clip inside that end, near the edge. It sits in a groove. You need to get a screwdriver, dental pick, something, carefully behind one end at it's split. then work it up and out. First time you do this, plan on a bunch of effort with little result, you'll just have to muddle through, you'll get it though, eventually Once that's out, there is a race clip, the same as you're used to on the other carbon fork you say you worked on. Issuer is, it's down inside, underneath a white delrin sleeve, which you now see with the cir-clip removed. Get the sleeve out, and then you need to get several small thin screwdrivers, spokes, whatever, and do a dance to get the race clip out. Same process, just down inside about 1/2 and inch, so it's tough to see what you're doing.

    Can I say at this point, that this is one of my primary complaints with the DLR2 system? I hate this with a unending passion, that cannot be overstated. Simply stupid, and a MAJOR pain in the a$$. The screw cap worked great, and for carbon, the 2 half moon clamp was fine. This turns every DLR2 into a time consuming screw around fishing expedition, and I've dealt with hundreds at this point......


    Good luck
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  8. #8
    RLM
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    reassembly?

    Are there any reassembly secrets or tips?
    What is a 'diggler tool' and is it necessary or is there something else one can use?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by RLM
    Are there any reassembly secrets or tips?
    What is a 'diggler tool' and is it necessary or is there something else one can use?

    The Diggler tool is a proprietary outer race retainer tool, combined with a care clip removal tool. It is very helpful, but you can A: use a chunk of inflated inner tube as a race retainer, and B: fish out the race clip with spokes and a lot of patience. As for tip and tricks, where shall I begin? Reverse the process exactly, make sure all the crap that needs to be on the lower leg is there BEFORE reassembly, and have 11 needle bearings below the top of the inner leg, and 11 above, as it helps with bearing positioning.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  10. #10
    RLM
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    Thanks Craig.
    I've had it apart for several weeks now. I'm still waiting on new bearings from my LBS before I attempt putting it all back together.
    I've not had good luck getting parts. Back in August I ordered a frog link rebuild kit for my Scalpel and still haven't received it. Luckily, I was able to find the bearings elsewhere. Same thing with SI crank bearings. I hope the needle bearings aren't as scarce as the others seem to be.

    Roger

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith
    Once that's out, there is a race clip, the same as you're used to on the other carbon fork you say you worked on. Issuer is, it's down inside, underneath a white delrin sleeve, which you now see with the cir-clip removed. Get the sleeve out, and then you need to get several small thin screwdrivers, spokes, whatever, and do a dance to get the race clip out. Same process, just down inside about 1/2 and inch, so it's tough to see what you're doing.
    :
    Mendon,

    I finally got to working on the lefty. Yesterday I removed the Clip, and from the bottom I can see the white delrin sleeve. My question is how do I get the delrin sleeve out. From the bottom, where the clip was positioned or from the insite of the upper part of the fork? (Where the damper cartridge was mounted....)

    After I get the delrin out, I suppose the race clip needs to be removed from the top, where the damper cartidge is mounted? Why can't I use the diggler tool? Why do you use spokes?

    Thanks for the help....

    Sven
    Last edited by SmOScalpel; 01-16-2008 at 02:54 AM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmOScalpel
    My question is how do I get the delrin sleeve out. After I get the delrin out, I suppose the race clip needs to be removed from the top, where the damper cartidge is mounted? Why can't I use the diggler tool? Why do you use spokes?
    Alright, remember when I said fishing expedition? Well, time to bait the hooks The Delrin ring is not held in place with anything, other than the grease in the vicinity. You need to use a bit or wire, thin spoke, dental pick, gentle downward banging, whatever, it just needs to come down and out so you can access the outer race clip underneath it, have fun Delrin is just a really hard yet durable plastic used in a lot of industrial applications, since it's very stable, machinable and sturdy. As for the top end, it has no race clip on the DLR2. If you look at the cartridge, it has a washer, and a fairly decent flange right at the top of the threads, These act as a race retainer. Only the older DLR's alloy and carbon, had an inner race clip, the first generation carbons had a two stage one that made grown men cry Let me know how it goes!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  13. #13
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    Mendon,

    I had myself a fishing expedition and after one hour of fishing I was about ready to torch the lefty. But what I did then was the following. When the lefty is compressed there is less tension on the race clip so the trick to get things loose is to try it with the lefty compressed. However there is still not much space as the fork boot is hanging in the way. grrrr....

    So what I did, as the races have to be replaced anyway, I used a very thin screwdriver to lift the innerraces from the telescope. Then I used some pliers and I pushed them upwards. This creates more space to lift the outer races from the race clip. Then I had the darn thing apart in 5 minutes!

    My question is, what is the most efficient wat to get the race clip on: I was thinking the following.

    - Warm the fork boot and slip it over the top carbon part of the fork shaft. If that is possible, because the lower part of the fork boot is al lot smaller than the diameter of the carbon
    - On the telescope slip on all the necessary rings
    - install inner and outer races but mount the inner races 1 inch higher, leaving a gap.
    - mount the needle bearings 11 below, 11 up, engage upper and lower parts
    - compress lefty completely, because the inner races are not inserted to the end, the race clip will install easily (i hope), install all rings
    - Insert a wooden stick inside the lefty an gently tap down the inner races 1 inch, so that everything is perfectly in place now.
    - Slide the form boot down
    - install cartridge and presto! one lefty!

    If you have a better way, let me know!!!!

    Regards...

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmOScalpel
    If you have a better way, let me know!!!!
    Hey there, fun huh?

    As for your plan, no dice. Everything must be in its end position prior to assembly. Repositioning races after they have bearing tension on them, is just about impossible, and moist often ends in either broken or bent races. The boot slid up onto the outer will save you fighting with it at the same time, but other than that, it's best to just reverse what you did to get it off, sorry. Have fun!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith
    Everything must be in its end position prior to assembly.
    Tomorrow evening is reassembly time


    I will let you know how it went...
    I wonder how the put the things together at C'dale factory.

    Regarding the boot slid up, have you ever done this? I am a bit afraid to rip it as the difference in diameters is quite substantial... I planning on heating and greasing it before sliding it up. But will that be sufficient not to rip it?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmOScalpel
    I wonder how the put the things together at C'dale factory.

    Regarding the boot slid up, have you ever done this?

    They do it about the same way. Thing is, they do it all day, so they get good. Now you see why alot of folks prefer to just pay to have it done

    As for the boot, I wouldn't heat it, just grease it. I don't bother to slide it up, I just zip tie it in a compressed down state, so it's out of my way
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  17. #17
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    Hi medon,

    Small update

    -The cartridge, did the maintenance (new seals and new oil) in an eyewink. Went really good. On thing I have my doubt about is where to position the very thin rubber washer/seal that needs to be mounted over the cartridge piston. It is as thin as a hair and sits really snuggly over the piston

    - The assemble of the two lefty parts. Went good however I still have to shove in the delrin sleeve and the clip ring. There I have a question, I have fear that I mounted the outer races in the upper shaft not deep enough, not levaing enough space for the delrin and the clip ring. Is there a way to get iis deeper. Or do I have to take apart again? If so, how can I be sure about the depth of the outer races in the upper shaft.

    If all goes well, I just gave to service the air plugs, mount the cartridge and presto an new lefty. Completely rebuilt and that fot 1/3 of the price!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmOScalpel
    Hi medon,

    Small update

    -The cartridge, did the maintenance (new seals and new oil) in an eyewink. Went really good. On thing I have my doubt about is where to position the very thin rubber washer/seal that needs to be mounted over the cartridge piston. It is as thin as a hair and sits really snuggly over the piston

    - The assemble of the two lefty parts. Went good however I still have to shove in the delrin sleeve and the clip ring. There I have a question, I have fear that I mounted the outer races in the upper shaft not deep enough, not levaing enough space for the delrin and the clip ring. Is there a way to get iis deeper. Or do I have to take apart again? If so, how can I be sure about the depth of the outer races in the upper shaft.

    If all goes well, I just gave to service the air plugs, mount the cartridge and presto an new lefty. Completely rebuilt and that fot 1/3 of the price!
    As for the thin O ring, I think your terminology is confusing me, got a pic?

    The outer races, need to have the lower portion of their "cut in's" flush with the shelf down inside the outer. No way to do it other than tak it apart. Any other position, will cause issues. Bummer if it's not there

    I charge $35 all included, so the parts cost you $10, what's your time worth?

    Glad it went well
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith

    I charge $35 all included, so the parts cost you $10, what's your time worth?

    Glad it went well
    I will try to get a pic of the O ring issue....

    Regarding the price, do not fall over!!! Complete rebuild at cannondale EUROPE costs: 375 dolar minumum. When I buy the parts (inner and outer races, needle bearing kit and seal kit) at an official Cannondale dealer I pay about: 126 Dollar. So when I do it myself, I save 250 dollar that is excl. on the oil and grease needed.

    When I see the prices you are charging, man that is CHEAP. Is it only 10 dollar for races and bearing kit in the states. If so it is getting interresting for me to import them!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by SmOScalpel
    When I see the prices you are charging, man that is CHEAP. Is it only 10 dollar for races and bearing kit in the states. If so it is getting interresting for me to import them!
    Just so you know, you don't replace all bearings and races during a routine service. The only ones needing replacement, are ones that are corroded or pitted, from contamination. You actually need to break the fork in, all over again, if you replace them all. The races get polished through use, and get smoother acting with time. By replacing good ones, your just making the fork feel stiffer and less plush, for no possible gain. Also, if they are corroded, often the back side is still in perfect shape. Flip it around, and take a grinder wheel to the top and bottom edges that now face the bearings, to remove the tiny lip left by the machine that punch cuts them, as it catches the bearings during reassembly. Also worth noting, don't know how they sold you a kit of races, as each of the inner races can be different from each other, unless you ordered all of them, after knowing what you needed. For what it's worth, races here cost $2.50, and bearings are $5. I do send stuff all over the place, and can easily assemble "custom" race sets if need be.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  21. #21
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    Dear SmOScalpel! You have the same problem like me since i live in Greece and the same issues here withe service the lefty like you!

    If you want to save time and money send the lefty to Craig like i did (an old DLR ti and a lefty SL) and they came back fresh like new

    You will have to pay extra the shipping but certainly will save you much time to spend it for riding, consider thatt you have to do that annually or every 1,5 year, it's not a big deal for some extra shipping costs!

    Except if you are a do it yourself person which means some times a lot of time, mistakes and may be more money but i think pleasure of succeed something yourself cannot be paid.

    Anyway i'm telling all that as an option because i dared to send the leftys and certainly will do it again. The guy rocks!

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