Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    try driving your car less
    Reputation: jh_on_the_cape's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,054

    headshok models?

    Hi. I have a headshok from 1999, the ultry fatty. Is there any difference between the internals (or ride quality) of mine, and the internals of the new model "SUPER FATTY ULTRA DL". Also, if there is some improvement in performance, are they available with V brake mounts, or just disc only? And if there is indeed a model available with some perceived performance enhancement and is available with V brake mounts, does anyone have a new one for sale, maybe you upgraded to lefty on your new bike or something? yeah, i should just upgrade to lefty, but it's so expensive considering i would have to get new wheel, brakes and shok. and roof rack tray...
    thanks!
    I looked here for what's the latest and greatest:
    http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/inno...forkrange.html
    Only boring people get bored.

  2. #2
    R.I.P. DogFriend
    Reputation: jeffj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,820
    The way I understood the naming convention is that any “Fatty” fork with “Super” in the name is an 80mm travel fork and any fork with “Ultra” in the name was the lightweight version. The “DL” refers to the cartridge. I am not familiar with this cartridge. I have had a “D” and an “SL” and know what those were. The “D” cartridge was a lockout type with it being either on or off and the “SL” cartridge has a five-position rebound adjustment knob.

    I have a 99 Super Fatty that came with a "D" cartridge and I swapped it out to an "SL" cartridge. Mine has the disc tabs and v-brake bosses, but it is not the "Ultra" model. For some reason I may remember these not coming with brake bosses.

    So, from what I would deduce from this is that the Super Fatty Ultra with the DL cartridge might be an 80mm travel lightweight fork that features some sort of lockout. The again, I could be way off too, especially on the features of the cartridge. Hopefully someone who truly knows will set it straight.

    If you’re using this fork on a XC race bike, I think it might be worth your while to look to upgrade a Fatty fork to a higher performance model. But if you’re a trailrider and/or using a Super V or Jekyll frame, I would think about converting to a more traditional style fork that will be more plush. It will not be as precise and rigid as a Fatty, but it is more comfortable and in my case is significantly faster going down the hill in spite of being visibly more flexible.

  3. #3
    try driving your car less
    Reputation: jh_on_the_cape's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,054
    Quote Originally Posted by jeffj
    The way I understood the naming convention is that any “Fatty” fork with “Super” in the name is an 80mm travel fork and any fork with “Ultra” in the name was the lightweight version. The “DL” refers to the cartridge. I am not familiar with this cartridge. I have had a “D” and an “SL” and know what those were. The “D” cartridge was a lockout type with it being either on or off and the “SL” cartridge has a five-position rebound adjustment knob.

    I have a 99 Super Fatty that came with a "D" cartridge and I swapped it out to an "SL" cartridge. Mine has the disc tabs and v-brake bosses, but it is not the "Ultra" model. For some reason I may remember these not coming with brake bosses.

    So, from what I would deduce from this is that the Super Fatty Ultra with the DL cartridge might be an 80mm travel lightweight fork that features some sort of lockout. The again, I could be way off too, especially on the features of the cartridge. Hopefully someone who truly knows will set it straight.

    If you’re using this fork on a XC race bike, I think it might be worth your while to look to upgrade a Fatty fork to a higher performance model. But if you’re a trailrider and/or using a Super V or Jekyll frame, I would think about converting to a more traditional style fork that will be more plush. It will not be as precise and rigid as a Fatty, but it is more comfortable and in my case is significantly faster going down the hill in spite of being visibly more flexible.
    hmmm... i have an ultra fatty SL. it's an on/off lockout, not 5 posittion. i always thought it was 'superlight' because it has a aluminum steerer, not steel like the lower end models. and i do ride XC and like the tracking. that's why i want to know about any updates. thanks for the idea of simply getting new internals, as the blades are probably the same.
    it's on a merlin fat beat, a XC oriented bike. but more of an all-day rider for me, i dont do alot of hucking or anything.
    Only boring people get bored.

  4. #4
    jcw
    jcw is offline
    Ride your bicycle(s)!
    Reputation: jcw's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    506
    Quote Originally Posted by jh_on_the_cape
    hmmm... i have an ultra fatty SL. it's an on/off lockout, not 5 posittion. i always thought it was 'superlight' because it has a aluminum steerer, not steel like the lower end models. and i do ride XC and like the tracking. that's why i want to know about any updates. thanks for the idea of simply getting new internals, as the blades are probably the same.
    it's on a merlin fat beat, a XC oriented bike. but more of an all-day rider for me, i dont do alot of hucking or anything.
    From what little I know (no fatty expert by any means) the main difference is going to be 80mm of travel, and improved bearings. The newer headshocks are noticably smoother than their predecessors.
    "The question before the human race is, whether the God of nature shall govern the world by his own laws, or whether priests and kings shall rule by fictitious miracles."
    John Adams to Thomas Jefferson, 1815

  5. #5
    R.I.P. DogFriend
    Reputation: jeffj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,820

    My bad.

    The cartridge I upgraded to, is an FT80 cartridge (which was standard on at least some Super Fatty SL forks), not an SL cartridge. My fork is called a Super Fatty D which meant it came with a DD80 cartridge which featured an air spring with a lockout (either on or off).

    So the SL may indeed be referring to “Super Light”.

  6. #6
    LA CHÈVRE
    Reputation: Dan Gerous's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    9,396
    When they introduced the Ultra (in 98? 99?), they refered to it as Super Light. It was the first alloy steer-tubed Headshok. My Fatty SL (99 model, bought in 98) has a steel steer-tube, a FT70 cartridge with a 5 position-that-all-feel-the-same-damping dial. The original Fatty Ultra was basically the same fork with an alloy steerer and maybe, I'm not sure on this one, was disc only...

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,116

    steerer tube?

    I asked this question in another thread, but anyway..

    My friend looked at my new Super Fatty Ultra DL (with kung fu grip) and warned me that after a wet ride that I needed to move the boot out of the way and grease the steerer pretty well since it had steel innards that would otherwise rust shut. But, you guys make it sound like, and I think I understand the owner's manual to back you up, that the steerer in these newer forks is aluminum? If so, how much do I realistically need to worry about checking/greasing the steerer?

  8. #8
    LA CHÈVRE
    Reputation: Dan Gerous's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    9,396
    Quote Originally Posted by GrantB
    I asked this question in another thread, but anyway..

    My friend looked at my new Super Fatty Ultra DL (with kung fu grip) and warned me that after a wet ride that I needed to move the boot out of the way and grease the steerer pretty well since it had steel innards that would otherwise rust shut. But, you guys make it sound like, and I think I understand the owner's manual to back you up, that the steerer in these newer forks is aluminum? If so, how much do I realistically need to worry about checking/greasing the steerer?
    Well there may be some pieces that are still made from steel in there, I never touched the inside... But after years of use and very bad weather riding, the fork (mine is not the alloy version) still works great without having to do any maintenance. I had my LBS change the oil and seal kit once two years ago but that's it. Very reliable fork if you ask me.

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  9. #9
    R.I.P. DogFriend
    Reputation: jeffj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,820
    I think Dan is right about the Ultras being disc only (at least when they were first introduced) and the first ones were not “Super” (80mm travel) either.

    The steerer tubes may be aluminum, but there is a steel “rack” in there that can get corroded. I had one freeze up on my Super Fatty one time.

  10. #10
    try driving your car less
    Reputation: jh_on_the_cape's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,054
    Quote Originally Posted by jeffj
    I think Dan is right about the Ultras being disc only (at least when they were first introduced) and the first ones were not “Super” (80mm travel) either.

    The steerer tubes may be aluminum, but there is a steel “rack” in there that can get corroded. I had one freeze up on my Super Fatty one time.
    I have an ultra with v brake posts. i dont see much of a clear concensus here, just alot of conjecture!
    make sure your shock boot is in perfect shape and you are fine. dont even go in there. but if the boot rips, replace it immediately.
    Only boring people get bored.

  11. #11
    R.I.P. DogFriend
    Reputation: jeffj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,820
    That's why I said "I think", not "I'm positive".

    You could always e-mail Cannondale Tech Support. They have usually got back to me with answers to my questions, but they may be no more reliable than the rest of us.

    When I asked them a question about switching to a 6.5" x 1.5" Swinger shock, they replied that my bike came with a 5.75" rear shock and that Manitou didn't make a 5.75" Swinger and therefore I could not put one on my bike. I sent them back a picture of my bike with a tape measure held up to the shock clearly showing it to be a 6.5" shock.

    Good luck.

  12. #12
    try driving your car less
    Reputation: jh_on_the_cape's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,054

    Ok

    Quote Originally Posted by jeffj
    That's why I said "I think", not "I'm positive".

    You could always e-mail Cannondale Tech Support. They have usually got back to me with answers to my questions, but they may be no more reliable than the rest of us.

    Good luck.
    OK. the real problem is that the local Cdale dealer is more of a BMX shop and I dont want those kids touching my bike. they already screwed up my buddy's bike one too many times!
    Only boring people get bored.

  13. #13
    R.I.P. DogFriend
    Reputation: jeffj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    5,820
    jh,

    I don't know what your intended purpose is but, I recently ditched my old Headshock for a traditional fork and even though the new fork is not nearly as rigid or precise, I am tons faster and enjoy it more than I ever did with the Headshock. If I was racing, I would have considered staying with the HS, but for trail riding I would never go back to it.

    That means no new hub and no rack issues to add to the price of a Lefty, only a $50 headset/adaptor from Cane Creek. The head angle is roughly the same at 100mm with my new fork that it was with the HS (supposedly) at 80mm. Life is good.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    57
    John, why don't you just call C-Dale? I have called them on several things and the techs are great. They have even sent me out of date and obsolete parts for my old C-Dale. As for your shop, try the Bicycle Link in Weymouth. I have had pretty good luck with them on both my C-Dales.

    Bob

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    341

    Headshock swap for conventional?

    I too have a 99 Fatty...I think it is the Fatty D on a 99 F700. I have looked elsewhere, but can't seem to find details on converting my bike to use a standard suspension fork. I know people have mentioned a can creek headseat, but which one? Is that all I would need?

Similar Threads

  1. Adjustable Brain on 04 S-Works models
    By enzo269 in forum Specialized
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 03-03-2004, 07:09 AM
  2. WTB Saddles: Has anyone tried the new Pro Gel models?
    By SCHUMACHER in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 02-26-2004, 06:12 PM
  3. Getting a better price on a bike?
    By ActorJ in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 02-08-2004, 09:03 AM
  4. gutting a headshok
    By beerbelly in forum Cannondale
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 01-28-2004, 06:16 PM
  5. gutting a C'dale headshok
    By beerbelly in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 01-26-2004, 07:06 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •