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  1. #1
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    Headshok Cartridge Removal Problems

    I'm trying to use kit KH-005 to fix my leaky headshok. I removed the fork from the frame, unscrewed the steerer tube cap, and now I have exposed the damping shaft and the top of the cartridge.

    The problem is that my castle tool will not reach far enough into the steer tube to grip the top of the cartridge. I've removed all of the air but havent removed the valve core as I dont have the tool. Is that the issue?

    I should add that yes Im compressing the whole assembly, and even with it bottoming out, there is about 15 to 20mm of extra space that prevents the castle tool from reaching.

    Many thanks

    http://www.scribd.com/doc/14864303/2...ir-Technote-En
    http://www.scribd.com/doc/14864068/2...nstructions-En

  2. #2
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Two thoughts.

    1. Removing the boot often gives you a bit more downward movement on the telescope.

    2. Depending on what tool you have, they do offer a short Castle tool, you may have inadvertently gotten one of those.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  3. #3
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    Thanks Mendon.

    1. I was hesitant to remove the boot as I didnt want to have problems with the bearings and races.

    2. I bought the HDTL146 Castle Tool, as thats what was listed in the tech notes. I didn't know there was a longer one

    I'll try and remove the boot tomorrow. Am I right in thinking that it will slide up over the steerer tube in one piece? I dont want to have to cut it off. The reason being I have to buy the spare parts from Germany (Im in Ireland), and it took 7 weeks to get the tools and the cartridge kit.

    Theres no dealer in this country that I can find that sells spare parts or is willing to work on the fork. Its a 2007 Fatty DL, not DLR.

    But it's been fun so far

  4. #4
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    If you cut the top zip tie, you should be able to moosh it down and out of the way enough to fully compress the fork. If not, you may need to pull it up and onto the steerer, it'll stretch, but it's tight, just don't pull really hard and tear it. A bit of grease inside it, helps it slide better.

    You aren't creating any issues with races and bearings by moving the boot.....

    Post a pic of the tool from the side, I can tell you if you have the shorty
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith
    If you cut the top zip tie, you should be able to moosh it down and out of the way enough to fully compress the fork. If not, you may need to pull it up and onto the steerer, it'll stretch, but it's tight, just don't pull really hard and tear it. A bit of grease inside it, helps it slide better.

    You aren't creating any issues with races and bearings by moving the boot.....

    Post a pic of the tool from the side, I can tell you if you have the shorty
    You know something, moosh is underused as a verb

    Even with the mooshing, I couldn't get enough compression to engage the tool. I cant show you a pic, but its 20mm in depth.

    I see there is a "Super" castle tool, I'll get one of those and give it a try. Or maybe buy a new boot and cut off the old one. Interestingly, that purchase will put my expenditure at what it would have cost to ship it to you in the US and have it fixed properly

    But it's fun to see how the fork works, and its something worth learning so I'm not too annoyed.

    Thanks again for the help.

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