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  1. #1
    OLDFATSLOW
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    New question here. Good idea? Bad idea? frequently swapping wheelsets on F29 C3

    I am thinking of ditching my Specialized Crux and just getting another set of wheels to have set up for road or gravel riding. I hate drop bars, and my 13' F29 C3 is so fun to ride. That being said, any drawbacks to frequently swapping wheel sets? Has anyone had issues doing this? I am thinking I could be doing this every week or so year round.
    OLDFATSLOW

  2. #2
    mtbr member
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    Just be nice to the front bolt/thread and all should be fine. But if you do alot of miles be prepaired to replace wear items more often chains cassettes and the like.

  3. #3
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    What wheels/tires are you going to use for the road/gravel?
    Flash29C2
    Scalpel 29C1
    Niner One9 SingleSpeed RDO fork
    Supersix Evo 1 Hi Mod D/A

  4. #4
    OLDFATSLOW
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    No idea what wheels I would use. Have to sell my other bike first! I would like to find the same as what came on the bike, because it would be cheap and I am not a weight weenie since I am at about 215+. As far as tires, I would swap between road tires and CX tires. I am mainly concerned about issues with the bearings/spindle. I am not concerned about my abilities as a mechanic, just wondering if anyone has had issues.
    Last edited by jspell; 02-09-2014 at 04:24 PM. Reason: typo
    OLDFATSLOW

  5. #5
    mtbr member
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    I am asking because I assume that the wheelset will have to have a lefty hub at the front.
    The rims will have to be road or cross type to accommodate 28-30 tires as well as disk brakes compatible.
    Is that combination even available ?
    Flash29C2
    Scalpel 29C1
    Niner One9 SingleSpeed RDO fork
    Supersix Evo 1 Hi Mod D/A

  6. #6
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    Go for it. Sounds like a great idea!
    What bearing/ spindle issues are you concerned about?
    I'm not sure what the rear axle spacing is on a C3, but there are lots of 700C commuter wheel sets out there built on Shimano 135mm mountain hubs, or generic 486 (?) Shimano Alivio equivalent hubs that are all but bombproof. Commuter rims are usually available >20mm wide. I'm running some Alex DA22's with Conti Gatorskins 28 cross-sections. They're light, RARELY flat, and last exactly as long as the drivetrain. I hop curbs all the time and have toured with these wheels. You could always get them built up 36 spoke 14g spokes if you were really concerned.

    A few things you may want to think about:

    1. Start both rear wheels with a new cassette and fit a new chain. Switch out the chain often. I alternate 2 chains, (SRAM, for easy changes) switching back and forth every month, letting the other one sit in kerosene. Chains tend to wear twice as fast as cassettes IME. After 8000 km's road I ditch the whole set up (der. pulleys, cassette, cables, housing, and both chains.) and replace.

    2. Cassette and disc alignment. Usually these line up close enough, but if not centering the disc is easy, fit the wheel, loosen calliper bolts and squeeze brakes. Keep squeezin' the lever until you tighten the bolts back up.
    Cassettes usually line up pretty well, there's usually enough give in a derailleur. Otherwise you might need to start playing with spacers on the axle, but this is highly unlikely, and a major PITA.

  7. #7
    LA CHÈVRE
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    Aligning brakes is sometimes a PITA... Even when it goes well, I wouldn't want to do it a few times a week. Yuck. A better way to go if both wheelsets have a slight rotor misalignement is to align the calipers with the rotors that are the most outboard (further from the center of the bike, more toward the left) then shim the other rotors to have a perfect match. This is done once, then you just have to swap the wheels, no adjustments to do each time you swap wheels. Bike shops should have thin shims for that, you could also DIY some by cutting some out of beer cans.

    As for the rear derailleur, now that only takes a few seconds by turning the barrel adjuster... it can even be done while you ride but I find it very quick and easy to do it by eye while looking with only one eye straight from behind the cassette while in a gear that is not the first or the last. You could probably even memorize how many turns is needed to go from one to the other... Shouldn't take more than a few seconds really.

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  8. #8
    OLDFATSLOW
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    Thanks for all the replies. I am most concerned with the fit of the bearings/spindle. As for wheels, I hope to find some take-offs from another Cannondale with a lefty. I want to run really fat tires on the road 38's maybe. And some fat cross type tires. I am not to concerned about weight, these are more for on road training and gravel riding. I am not a roadie, I like to climb the short steep hills on the streets in town. My town is on the bluffs of the Missouri river and there a lot of climbing to be had.
    OLDFATSLOW

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