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  1. #1
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    fox DYAD RT2 problem!!!!!

    guys, I have a question,

    Just got a claymore. in full mode, the fox dyad works just perfect. without any problems, without wierd sounds and so on... BUT - when I switch to the elevate (110mm) mode, the shock kinda makes some wierd noises... pumping it up and down, it makes sort of clank - clank noise. (not top or bottom of the travel.. just in the middle...) feels and sounds like a worn bushing... just to compare it to something.
    (all chambers inflated according to the users manual)

    guys, who ride claymores or jekylls, please let me know if I should worry... or if its normal...


    any idea where to buy a spare fox dyad for my claymore ??? would love to have one spare...

    thx a lot!!!

  2. #2
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    I have a Claymore 2 and while I don't know if we have the same symptoms I did find that right out of the box...
    1.) all of the suspension pinch bolts need to be checked for proper torque (with a torque wrench)
    2.) Insure that the bushing gap is aligned exactly where they recommend (opposite the pinch clamp gap)


    I had two (possible related) sounds/issues right after receipt.
    1.) When climbing out of the saddle over rocks or logs I would occasionally get a "pop" 2.) When the bike was at rest if you lifted it from the saddle you'd get a just perceptible "soft thump" in the suspension.

    The first issue was corrected by correcting all the fastener torques, including the hard to reach ones (with a torque wrench). The second one I took back to the dealer and said fix it and they did (for free). I've had zero issues in the 10 months since.

  3. #3
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    To one of your other questions...no it is absolutely not normal to have any noises coming from the suspension (in my experience).

  4. #4
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    I'm having an issue with the shock "creaking" as it sags under my weight when I'm on the saddle. It happens mostly in elevate mode. It seems like instead of instantly sagging, it's slowly moving down and as it does creates an annoying creaking. Anyone experience this?

  5. #5
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    I had similar issues to TMCL with my new Jekyll, all that needed doing was re torquing of the lower bolt on the pull shock, fixed the play ans slight noises

  6. #6
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    I had to send it in to Fox. We'll see what happens..

  7. #7
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    I had problem where shaft was coming out of shock body, so there was sag already. No good. So I send it to local fox service. It came and same problem again. Now shaft rises more than previously. I have to send it again..They said it that first problem was that oil/air where mixed. Yep maybe same again. Great.
    My fleet:
    System six 08
    Moto 1 08
    Jekyll 1000(04)
    Perp 3 (08)

    Had R700 (05)

  8. #8
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    That sucks. Mine was also doing the shaft out of body thing as well. Hopefully it comes back fixed though....

  9. #9
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    check out bikeradar.com. there's a feature on Aaron Chases' Claymore and in there's a pic of the shock with the shaft partially exposed. If he rides with it without a problem, I'm thinking it's all good

  10. #10
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    Jep, I saw same pic from Chases claymore. Fox service sayed if shaft comes out of body then it is broken. Also when I put more pressure example over 300 psi(340psi would my weight according to manual) to neg. chamber shaft rises more and more, so now it is, say 3-4 cm over the shock body. Over 20-40 % is already used and I'am not in the bike..See..
    My fleet:
    System six 08
    Moto 1 08
    Jekyll 1000(04)
    Perp 3 (08)

    Had R700 (05)

  11. #11
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    Well if that's what Fox says than I guess that's gospel. I know they're customer service doesn't have the best reputation (though I've never personally had a problem), but since it's under warranty still I'd just keep dealing with them until you're satisfied. Sucks not to be able to use something you paid money for though-I feel your pain there.

  12. #12
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    ya gotta love proprietary suspension .
    I learned my lesson with the first generation Jekyll
    and its trunion mounted rear shock .

  13. #13
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    I just received my shock back from Fox. They found contaminated oil, piston seals not seated in gland, oil transfer to negative chamber and the issue with the main shaft extended. They replaced some seals and bearings and everything was covered under warranty. Two week turnaround from the day I sent it out.

    Shock seems great now and the main shaft no longer extends when I pump it up.

  14. #14
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    I just sent my dyad in today. the shaft was extended 1/4" or so before i even got on the bike. I just hope they get it right the first time.

  15. #15
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    I got my dyad from service center and now shaft doesn't rise from body. Happy now
    My fleet:
    System six 08
    Moto 1 08
    Jekyll 1000(04)
    Perp 3 (08)

    Had R700 (05)

  16. #16
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    What if I buy a jekyll frame and shock and it has no shock lever? Can I adjust it at the shock with my hand? can you adjust from elevate to long travel and vice versa without a cable and lever?

    Or if the cable fails JRA...

  17. #17
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    I haven't tried but
    1.) that would defeat a lot of the value of the system as I wouldn't want to stick my hand in that part of the frame while I was riding..
    2.) The system is like a derailleur in terms of how the actuator functions. Meaning... when you release the lever from "elevate" position it is pulled by a spring? or air cylinder? internal to the shock back to the "flow" mode. There is no latching feature (on the shock) to keep the shock in elevate mode. To keep the shock in elevate manually you would have to hold it in position (with constant hand pressure) just as you would with trying to get a derailleur to hold a gear without a gear shifter attached.

    If the cable fails you will be stuck in flow mode. I've had zero issues or maintenance requirements for the shock cable in 15 months. The force you are transmitting just isn't much of a strain for the cable. I expect the only time it will ever need service is when enough trail dust collects in the housing to start adding a little friction to the system.

    If you bought the frame and shock form someone without the lever I'd recommend calling a dealer and spending the ~20 bucks to get that lever. Aaron D (not sure if on this forum) had his lever cap pop off and was able to get a replacement from C'dale.

  18. #18
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    so the answer is no
    thanks

  19. #19
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    Sure.
    It's fun bike. I just setup a pair of Black Flag Pro's Tubeless with Mutano 2.4s. Much faster rolling and great for the times when you don't need as much traction.

  20. #20
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    remote lever failed

    The remote DYAD shock lever failed on my Jekyll.

    Does anyone know if you can use any type of remote lockout lever? I can get a used rock shox fork lockout lever for a fraction of the price of buying the Fox oem type one.

  21. #21
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    You can use a front derailleur shifter.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2wheelrevolution View Post
    You can use a front derailleur shifter.
    Has anybody done this successfully? I just got a jekyll frame without the remote and figured since I am going to be running single up front that I could just pass on the $80 remote and use the shifter I already have but im afraid to have it not pull all the way and have it between the two modes or something.

  23. #23
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    I tried the rock shox remote and it broke on the first pull. I opened it up and the thin plastic part had just cracked in half.

    I'm thinking of trying a thumb shifter next, they are only $10. If that works, I'll let y'all know

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailhore View Post
    I just sent my dyad in today. the shaft was extended 1/4" or so before i even got on the bike. I just hope they get it right the first time.
    I was just messing with my air pressure after riding my new Claymore for about 2 months. After following the procedure in the manual, my shock shaft had about 1/4in to about 1/2in exposed. When I compressed the suspension it made a top out "clunk" and didn't feel good at all. I messed with it several times trying to get it to work. I then figured out that the positive air port fills two (long travel and short travel) chambers. I threaded my pump on just a little further beyond the point where the air fills the gauge and found that only then did the second air chamber engage. I released all the air (both chambers empty) and filled according to the manual. Now the shock filled as it should, shows no exposed shaft, and has no clunk sound. So the moral of the story it to thread your pump on just a little further and I think the problem many of us experience will be eliminated!

  25. #25
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    I got my DYAD shock rebuilt at Fox over the last month. From all the sheets of paper send back with it, they replaced just about everything in the shock.
    I've gotten a few rides on it now and it feels totally different than it did before. The main thing is the rebound adjustment now has a range of very slow to slow, instead of slow to fast. This only seems to be an issue in the long travel mode; the short travel mode rebound will adjust to fast. Could Fox have revalved the rebound shims or is this the way it's suppose to feel?

  26. #26
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    Fox DYAD

    Same problem. Long travel mode damping goes from slow to super slow not usable at all. This is the second time on service. Got my 2012 claymore on june, since then i have not been able to ride my bike with the 180mm mode. I ask my dealer for another dyad. I'm waiting for 3 month! God i hate cannondale. If only i could sell my bike but nobody will buy a bike with a non working shock.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by eneed View Post
    I was just messing with my air pressure after riding my new Claymore for about 2 months. After following the procedure in the manual, my shock shaft had about 1/4in to about 1/2in exposed. When I compressed the suspension it made a top out "clunk" and didn't feel good at all. I messed with it several times trying to get it to work. I then figured out that the positive air port fills two (long travel and short travel) chambers. I threaded my pump on just a little further beyond the point where the air fills the gauge and found that only then did the second air chamber engage. I released all the air (both chambers empty) and filled according to the manual. Now the shock filled as it should, shows no exposed shaft, and has no clunk sound. So the moral of the story it to thread your pump on just a little further and I think the problem many of us experience will be eliminated!
    Eneed, after reading your post I realized this is the exact problem I had. I kept adjusting the shock pressure as per the manual and the shaft kept coming out and I would get that clunk you described. I tried one last time letting all the air out of both +and- sides, then threaded my pump on all the way until it stopped...viola, problem solved.

    I still don't understand why this made a difference. You would think that when you screw your pump on and they gage registers that should be enough. I make sure I screw it in all the way now every time.

  28. #28
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    Finally got my new 2013 Dyad. Seems to works fine. I had to put less pressure on both to get the proper sag referring to cannondale chart. It looks to be a little bit to slow and my damping is all the way open. What i should do to make it faster? If i remove pressure on the negative my sag will not be set correctly.
    When playing with pressure remember to follow every steps and always screw the positive all the way. Dyad manual available on fox site. Sorry i can't post the link!

  29. #29
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    Did fox cover the expense

    Did fox coving the cost for the broken shock where the shaft was showing without a rider? I just bought a 2011 in great condition however there is the soft thump right when I sit on the bike and the shaft is 1/2 exposed. Looks like I need to send it to fox to fix it. Ans body have any info on cost from fox?

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2wheelrevolution View Post
    That sucks. Mine was also doing the shaft out of body thing as well. Hopefully it comes back fixed though....

    My Jekyll's DYAD was not returning as well until I noticed that my positive air was not filling properly.
    I then completely drained both air chambers ( Negative first )
    I screwed my shock pump in TIGHTLY BUT CAREFULLY then made sure to balance the Pos & Neg air in the ratio determined by the chart and VIOLA perfect!
    I also set all my rebound to full open when I drained my air & reset it after.

    -Hope this helps,
    Mike

  31. #31
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    thanks

    I have tried to reset the air 4 times no luck. I am going to the bike shop and see if they can warranty it for me.

  32. #32
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    Just sent mine in it was leaking called them today they said it was on the bench their website says two day turn around going on day 3 not to worried just want it back fixed.

  33. #33
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    PS The Scott high pressure air pump works better then the cannondale pump it has a pressure release option that you can un-screw first then you do not have to worry about losing air pressure un-screwing the pump.

  34. #34
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    Quote:
    "Originally Posted by 2wheelrevolution
    You can use a front derailleur shifter.
    Has anybody done this successfully? I just got a jekyll frame without the remote and figured since I am going to be running single up front that I could just pass on the $80 remote and use the shifter I already have but im afraid to have it not pull all the way and have it between the two modes or something."
    Using SramXX grip shifters. Left for rear shock/right for RD.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails fox DYAD RT2 problem!!!!!-21777_343726725726254_1351713862_n.jpg  


  35. #35
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    reset fox dayed RT2 for jekyll claymore

    reset fox dayed rt2 for jekyll + glaymore,
    if you have out standing piston when you pump more than 300psi in the negative air chamber:

    first empty booth air chamber, ®be sure that the pump is full tighten when you unfill or fill air!!!, fill up the negative chamber until the piston is full exposed ca. 5cm, than fill up the positive chamber until the piston is full back, now empty the negative chamber and adyst the positiv chamber to your wight, now fill the negative chamber to your wight, done.
    Last edited by 8664; 09-01-2013 at 10:09 PM.

    ride.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8664 View Post
    reset fox dayed rt2 for jekyll + glaymore,
    if you have out standing piston when you pump more than 300psi in the negative air chamber:

    first empty booth air chamber, ®be sure that the pump is full tighten when you unfill or fill air!!!, fill up the negative chamber until the piston is full exposed than fill up the positive chamber until the piston is full back now empty the negative chamber and adyst the positiv chamber to your wight no fill the negative chamber to your wight, done.

    Thanks for the information. Could you tell me what exactly this resets? Also, how did you find this out ?

  37. #37
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    Found in this forum via google. i speak german, english is optional..
    A
    Cannondale Jekyll 2011 - 150mm Comeback im Endurosektor mit viel Technik - Seite 96 - MTB-News.de - IBC
    Tread 2400

    For the rest call foxshox.
    Last edited by 8664; 09-02-2013 at 06:58 AM.

    ride.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8664 View Post
    Found in this forum via google. i speak german, english is optional..
    A
    Cannondale Jekyll 2011 - 150mm Comeback im Endurosektor mit viel Technik - Seite 96 - MTB-News.de - IBC
    Tread 2400

    For the rest call foxshox.
    There's nothing in the shock to reset.
    From my translation....it looks like someone did NOT depressurize the Neg first and let the pressure out of the Positive instead. Repressurized the Pos...and started over.
    And now...it's Gospel?

  39. #39
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    wrong
    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    there's nothing in the shock to reset.
    From my translation....it looks like someone did not depressurize the neg first and let the pressure out of the positive instead. Repressurized the pos...and started over.
    And now...it's gospel?

    RIGHT
    first empty booth air chamber, ®be sure that the pump is full tighten when you unfill or fill air!!!, fill up the negative chamber until the piston is full exposed than fill up the positive chamber until the piston is full back now empty the negative chamber and adyst the positiv chamber to your wight no fill the negative chamber to your wight, done.

    and it helps

    ride.

  40. #40
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    It helps what?

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    It helps what?
    for that...
    Quote Originally Posted by 8664 View Post
    if you have out standing piston when you pump more than 300psi in the negative air chamber:
    like this
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails fox DYAD RT2 problem!!!!!-image.jpg  


    ride.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8664 View Post
    for that...


    like this
    Have you given this a try? Does the reset work ?

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by chick0 View Post
    Have you given this a try? Does the reset work ?
    YES with my shock,,
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails fox DYAD RT2 problem!!!!!-image.jpg  


    ride.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by eneed View Post
    I was just messing with my air pressure after riding my new Claymore for about 2 months. After following the procedure in the manual, my shock shaft had about 1/4in to about 1/2in exposed. When I compressed the suspension it made a top out "clunk" and didn't feel good at all. I messed with it several times trying to get it to work. I then figured out that the positive air port fills two (long travel and short travel) chambers. I threaded my pump on just a little further beyond the point where the air fills the gauge and found that only then did the second air chamber engage. I released all the air (both chambers empty) and filled according to the manual. Now the shock filled as it should, shows no exposed shaft, and has no clunk sound. So the moral of the story it to thread your pump on just a little further and I think the problem many of us experience will be eliminated!
    I had taken all the air out of my Dyad to check chain length at max chain growth and things were funny after re-inflating. I was hearing a knocking noise as the shock begun moving through its stroke and the shaft was pre-extended unless I ran very low negative air.

    I took the air out and started over, ensuring that the pump was screwed on tight as suggested above. I inflated positive air first then negative air and, sure enough, the problem was solved.

  45. #45
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    nice!!

    ride.

  46. #46
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    As an update to this - I've just taken delivery of a 2015 Jekyll and had the same issues (shock extending once -ve pressure goes over 300psi, and a horrible knocking sound coming from the shock when in flow mode). Followed 8664's 'reset' process and it's done the trick. Thanks chief.

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