Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 26 to 45 of 45
  1. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    4

    Fox DYAD

    Same problem. Long travel mode damping goes from slow to super slow not usable at all. This is the second time on service. Got my 2012 claymore on june, since then i have not been able to ride my bike with the 180mm mode. I ask my dealer for another dyad. I'm waiting for 3 month! God i hate cannondale. If only i could sell my bike but nobody will buy a bike with a non working shock.

  2. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    76
    Quote Originally Posted by eneed View Post
    I was just messing with my air pressure after riding my new Claymore for about 2 months. After following the procedure in the manual, my shock shaft had about 1/4in to about 1/2in exposed. When I compressed the suspension it made a top out "clunk" and didn't feel good at all. I messed with it several times trying to get it to work. I then figured out that the positive air port fills two (long travel and short travel) chambers. I threaded my pump on just a little further beyond the point where the air fills the gauge and found that only then did the second air chamber engage. I released all the air (both chambers empty) and filled according to the manual. Now the shock filled as it should, shows no exposed shaft, and has no clunk sound. So the moral of the story it to thread your pump on just a little further and I think the problem many of us experience will be eliminated!
    Eneed, after reading your post I realized this is the exact problem I had. I kept adjusting the shock pressure as per the manual and the shaft kept coming out and I would get that clunk you described. I tried one last time letting all the air out of both +and- sides, then threaded my pump on all the way until it stopped...viola, problem solved.

    I still don't understand why this made a difference. You would think that when you screw your pump on and they gage registers that should be enough. I make sure I screw it in all the way now every time.

  3. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    4
    Finally got my new 2013 Dyad. Seems to works fine. I had to put less pressure on both to get the proper sag referring to cannondale chart. It looks to be a little bit to slow and my damping is all the way open. What i should do to make it faster? If i remove pressure on the negative my sag will not be set correctly.
    When playing with pressure remember to follow every steps and always screw the positive all the way. Dyad manual available on fox site. Sorry i can't post the link!

  4. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    2

    Did fox cover the expense

    Did fox coving the cost for the broken shock where the shaft was showing without a rider? I just bought a 2011 in great condition however there is the soft thump right when I sit on the bike and the shaft is 1/2 exposed. Looks like I need to send it to fox to fix it. Ans body have any info on cost from fox?

  5. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation: s570e's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by 2wheelrevolution View Post
    That sucks. Mine was also doing the shaft out of body thing as well. Hopefully it comes back fixed though....

    My Jekyll's DYAD was not returning as well until I noticed that my positive air was not filling properly.
    I then completely drained both air chambers ( Negative first )
    I screwed my shock pump in TIGHTLY BUT CAREFULLY then made sure to balance the Pos & Neg air in the ratio determined by the chart and VIOLA perfect!
    I also set all my rebound to full open when I drained my air & reset it after.

    -Hope this helps,
    Mike

  6. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    2

    thanks

    I have tried to reset the air 4 times no luck. I am going to the bike shop and see if they can warranty it for me.

  7. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    20
    Just sent mine in it was leaking called them today they said it was on the bench their website says two day turn around going on day 3 not to worried just want it back fixed.

  8. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    20
    PS The Scott high pressure air pump works better then the cannondale pump it has a pressure release option that you can un-screw first then you do not have to worry about losing air pressure un-screwing the pump.

  9. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    23
    Quote:
    "Originally Posted by 2wheelrevolution
    You can use a front derailleur shifter.
    Has anybody done this successfully? I just got a jekyll frame without the remote and figured since I am going to be running single up front that I could just pass on the $80 remote and use the shifter I already have but im afraid to have it not pull all the way and have it between the two modes or something."
    Using SramXX grip shifters. Left for rear shock/right for RD.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails fox DYAD RT2 problem!!!!!-21777_343726725726254_1351713862_n.jpg  


  10. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8664's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    1,968

    reset fox dayed RT2 for jekyll claymore

    reset fox dayed rt2 for jekyll + glaymore,
    if you have out standing piston when you pump more than 300psi in the negative air chamber:

    first empty booth air chamber, Ębe sure that the pump is full tighten when you unfill or fill air!!!, fill up the negative chamber until the piston is full exposed ca. 5cm, than fill up the positive chamber until the piston is full back, now empty the negative chamber and adyst the positiv chamber to your wight, now fill the negative chamber to your wight, done.
    Last edited by 8664; 09-01-2013 at 11:09 PM.

    ride.

  11. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation: chick0's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    543
    Quote Originally Posted by 8664 View Post
    reset fox dayed rt2 for jekyll + glaymore,
    if you have out standing piston when you pump more than 300psi in the negative air chamber:

    first empty booth air chamber, Ębe sure that the pump is full tighten when you unfill or fill air!!!, fill up the negative chamber until the piston is full exposed than fill up the positive chamber until the piston is full back now empty the negative chamber and adyst the positiv chamber to your wight no fill the negative chamber to your wight, done.

    Thanks for the information. Could you tell me what exactly this resets? Also, how did you find this out ?

  12. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8664's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    1,968
    Found in this forum via google. i speak german, english is optional..
    A
    Cannondale Jekyll 2011 - 150mm Comeback im Endurosektor mit viel Technik - Seite 96 - MTB-News.de - IBC
    Tread 2400

    For the rest call foxshox.
    Last edited by 8664; 09-02-2013 at 07:58 AM.

    ride.

  13. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    2,100
    Quote Originally Posted by 8664 View Post
    Found in this forum via google. i speak german, english is optional..
    A
    Cannondale Jekyll 2011 - 150mm Comeback im Endurosektor mit viel Technik - Seite 96 - MTB-News.de - IBC
    Tread 2400

    For the rest call foxshox.
    There's nothing in the shock to reset.
    From my translation....it looks like someone did NOT depressurize the Neg first and let the pressure out of the Positive instead. Repressurized the Pos...and started over.
    And now...it's Gospel?

  14. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8664's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    1,968
    wrong
    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    there's nothing in the shock to reset.
    From my translation....it looks like someone did not depressurize the neg first and let the pressure out of the positive instead. Repressurized the pos...and started over.
    And now...it's gospel?

    RIGHT
    first empty booth air chamber, Ębe sure that the pump is full tighten when you unfill or fill air!!!, fill up the negative chamber until the piston is full exposed than fill up the positive chamber until the piston is full back now empty the negative chamber and adyst the positiv chamber to your wight no fill the negative chamber to your wight, done.

    and it helps

    ride.

  15. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    2,100
    It helps what?

  16. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8664's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    1,968
    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    It helps what?
    for that...
    Quote Originally Posted by 8664 View Post
    if you have out standing piston when you pump more than 300psi in the negative air chamber:
    like this
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails fox DYAD RT2 problem!!!!!-image.jpg  


    ride.

  17. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation: chick0's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    543
    Quote Originally Posted by 8664 View Post
    for that...


    like this
    Have you given this a try? Does the reset work ?

  18. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8664's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    1,968
    Quote Originally Posted by chick0 View Post
    Have you given this a try? Does the reset work ?
    YES with my shock,,
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails fox DYAD RT2 problem!!!!!-image.jpg  


    ride.

  19. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    39
    Quote Originally Posted by eneed View Post
    I was just messing with my air pressure after riding my new Claymore for about 2 months. After following the procedure in the manual, my shock shaft had about 1/4in to about 1/2in exposed. When I compressed the suspension it made a top out "clunk" and didn't feel good at all. I messed with it several times trying to get it to work. I then figured out that the positive air port fills two (long travel and short travel) chambers. I threaded my pump on just a little further beyond the point where the air fills the gauge and found that only then did the second air chamber engage. I released all the air (both chambers empty) and filled according to the manual. Now the shock filled as it should, shows no exposed shaft, and has no clunk sound. So the moral of the story it to thread your pump on just a little further and I think the problem many of us experience will be eliminated!
    I had taken all the air out of my Dyad to check chain length at max chain growth and things were funny after re-inflating. I was hearing a knocking noise as the shock begun moving through its stroke and the shaft was pre-extended unless I ran very low negative air.

    I took the air out and started over, ensuring that the pump was screwed on tight as suggested above. I inflated positive air first then negative air and, sure enough, the problem was solved.

  20. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 8664's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    1,968
    nice!!

    ride.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •