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  1. #1
    mtbr member
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    First time poster (2011 Trail 5)

    Hey I have a few questions regarding my bike which I settled on 2 days ago.

    Its a 2011 Cannondale trail 5.

    Specs:
    Bicycle Type Mountain bike, front suspension
    item ID 22371

    Fork Brand & Model RST Gila Pro TnL, 100mm travel
    Fork Material Alloy, Single crown

    Component Group Mountain Mix
    Brakeset Promax Orange brakes, Cannondale levers
    Shift Levers Shimano Alivio
    Front Derailleur Shimano FD-M311
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Alivio
    Crankset Shimano FC-M311, 22/32/42 teeth
    Pedals FPD platform w/steel cage
    Bottom Bracket Tange Seiki LN-3912
    Rear Cogs 8-speed, 12 - 32 teeth
    Chain KMC Z-72
    Seatpost Cannondale C4, 31.6mm diameter
    Saddle Cannondale Stage 2
    Handlebar Cannondale C4 riser
    Handlebar Extensions Not included
    Handlebar Stem Cannondale C4
    Headset Tange ER2 Slim Stack



    Wheels
    Hubs Front: Formula DC20, Rear: Formula DC22
    Rims Alex DC4.5, 32-hole
    Tires 26 x 2.1" Kenda Small Block 8
    Spoke Brand Stainless, 15ga. (1.8mm) butted
    Spoke Nipples Unspecified

    -------------------------------------

    Ok a few questions

    1: I am new to biking as an adult. I bought the bike mostly for long rides on rough sidewalk/road conditions (15-20 mile rides 3 times a week), with some light to medium trail applications and jumping. I had originally bough a Mongoose deception and broke it in 3 days . So after reading on here I picked a few bikes to look at and decided on this cannondale.

    Im wondering what improvements I can do to it to enhance its street riding qualities without taking away from any of the mountainbike ruggedness.

    Things that will make it Roll better/Pedal better but still be able to take a little beating.

    And if you could suggest them in order of most bang for the buck type items.



    2. Ok a tech question. I noticed last year the model was called trail sl5...this year the sl moniker only stayed up to the 4th edition and they dropped in on 5 and 6. Does anyone know what that meant and why. Its confussing on the site http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/moun...-trail-5-16847. They still refer to it as a sl in one spot but not on the right side. and the sl4 is a more expensive bike than the 5 but the 6 is less expensive...so im a litte confused at their naming scheme.



    3. On the shifters. The right shifter the index shifter shifts up and the thumb shift down.....On the left its opposite and the thumb shifts up.??? Shouldnt they be the same or no?


    I tested Between a Specail Rockhopper/Hardrock/...Giant Yukon...Cannondale trail 5.

    And the Cannondale felt like a lexus compared to low end kias. Im really impressed and happy with my decission. I just need all the profesional advice I can get on parts to upgrade as I go to have a even better street worthy mountain bike.

  2. #2
    A guy on a bike Moderator
    Reputation: TobyGadd's Avatar
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    Congrats on the new bike! Answers:

    1. Maybe add some bar ends, which will give you more hand positions for longer rides. You could also consider different tires to reduce road buzz--but the tires on the bike are already relatively smooth and good for off-road riding. If you never leave pavement, buy some slicks.
    2. I have no idea what Cannondale is doing with their branding. But if you like the bike, then don't worry about what it's called--just get out there and enjoy riding it!
    3. The shifters work the way they are supposed to. Pushing (thumb power) is required to make the derailleurs move into bigger cogs (back) or rings (front), in part because the chain needs to pulled against the spring in the rear derailleur (part of the rear derailleur's function is to eliminate slack in the chain). Bigger rings in the front are faster, bigger cogs in the back are slower. Watch to see what your derailleurs are actually doing, and I think that it'll make more sense.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
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    Are the Hubs, BB, Crank, and Casette good? Would upgrading them offer no real improvement? I dont think the tires could be changed without making the bike unuseable on light trails.

    The branding is just for my own curiosity.....Ive already put 11 miles on it yesterday and I love it!!!!

    As for the shifter that is odd. It seems if applying thumb or pushing power to the left shifter puts you into a higher gear right side should match that behaviour. I found myself constantly shifting down when thinking I would be shifting up due to the shifters being different.

    I dont remember the sram being that way on the yukon. it was matched on both sides.......maybe that should be my first upgrade!

    TY for your response....I welcome all help by anyone else with more to add.

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