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  1. #1
    el Rappazapator
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    Idea! DT Swiss SSD 210 L remote lockout

    Every proud Cannondale owner with a DT Swiss SSD 210 L damper may tell you a tiresome story about the remote lockout mechanism originally installed on the bike. Cannondale uses its own lockout lever which is designed for a smooth to operate fox damper. The DT Swiss 210 is even a bit hard to operate with the original lever right on the damper. If you add a tough spring, some friction in the cabling and the mechanical components and a incorrect lever design you will get something that is nearly impossible to operate.
    I used the original Cannondale remote lockout unit for some months ? some callused skin and permanent blisters on my right hands thumb where the consequences. After three months the lever was so hard to operate that it began to slip on the bar when I tried to bring the lever in lockout position. By trying to clamp on the mechanism even harder on the bar I cracked the Easton EC 70 bar? What a mess!
    This was the time when I seriously began to think about a new and better solution. The original DT Swiss Lockout (http://www.dtswiss.com/index.asp?fus...ikedetail&id=2) is far too bulky and seems to have some mechanical problems as I've heard. So I began to think about good old thumb shifters as used in the beginning of the MTB age. But this levers are almost everywhere out of stock and cause of this very hard to find or very expensive.
    Finally the salvation came from Pauls Components ? they produce a special bar adapter that allows you to mount Shimano bar end shifters like thumb shifters on your bar (http://www.paulcomp.com/thumbmtn.html). They cost about 40$ - not that cheap I know but Cannondale isn't too ? The other thing you need is a Shimano bar end shifter set, you can go with the 105 or Dura Ace, what you prefer more. If you would do a real good job you also need a new shifting cable and a new 4mm housing to make tat thing work smooth.
    The rest is just a child's play; remove the original lockout lever and cabling, then install the Paul Thumbie with the appropriate Shimano lever and thread up the cabling thing! This setup gives you the freedom to install the lockout on the right or left side of your bar, what ever you prefer.
    The bad thing is, that you have to buy a set consisting of two Thumbies and also the Shimano bar end shifter set has two levers in the box, so half of your purchase is just superfluous. For an OEM like Cannondale it should be no problem to just get the parts as needed. For this reason I tried to contact Cannondale and tell them about my lockout solution which may be a real improvement for their bikes. But there was no response from Cannondale, neither from Europe nor from America. I would feel ashamed to sell a bike like the Scalpel 3000 for several thousand dollars with a lockout mechanism as originally supplied. At least it would be a good idea to pick up ideas of users to make immature things better. Hopefully a Cannondale representative will read this and maybe pick up this suggestion for future generations of Cannondale bikes.

    If you would tune up your bike like that and need some additional information or help don?t hesitate to contact me.
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    Last edited by joschi; 07-13-2004 at 02:58 PM.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
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    rear lockout...

    AWESOME!!!
    couldn't have said it better myself.......
    possible to get a photo of the connecting cable to the rear shock???

  3. #3
    mtbr member
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    fox lockout

    I have a 00 Jekyll. I put the fox remote lockout lever on my bike this spring. So far the best investment I put on my bike. It is a bit expensive at $80 USD, but well worth it in my opinion. You do have to buy your own housing and cable and the installation directions suck. But so far I've had no problems with mine at all.

  4. #4
    el Rappazapator
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    Hi tmachalek

    Sorry for my late replay, but I wasn't in this forum for some weeks. The cable routing is almost straight forward. In the bar and stem section I have the lockout cable right in parallel with the rear shifter cable. On the frame I use the middle track and leave on the left side like the rear brake line. By the damper I still use the "noodle" as originally found on the bike and I also route the cable as originally delivered. As a next update or side grade I think about replacing the "noodle" with a Rollamajig from Avid, this may again lower friction and make it easier to operate the lockout.
    By the way, I use this setup now for about two months, and I never ever had any problems with the remote lockout. So it really my be the 100 bucks worth you have to spend for the Thumbies and the shifters.

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