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  1. #1
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    Creaky Scalpel Headset

    My '02 Scalpel 3000 creaks and pops when the front wheel is turned, weighted or not. Some of the LBS's have told me the cable housings can cause this, but short of using a stethescope to isolate the creak, its hard to find. The pop is very "thin, aluminum sounding" and is coming from the headset area. I really don't want to pull apart the headset. Anybody experience this? Solutions?

  2. #2
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    Yes, shift cable housing are known to cause this sometimes. I haven't found it to be a problem on my Scalpel however. When using plastic cable ends it's pretty rare. Try bending the cables in different positions while turning the handlebar in order to locate the sound.

    Another relatively easy method to isolate the sound is to temporarily remove the stem. You'll be able to turn the fork without anything affecting it. If it still makes the same sound something could be wrong with the headset.

  3. #3
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    a year ago my scalpel 2000 would creak and it was loose headset cups. simple fix. take off the stem and using oversized plastic pipe press them back in place.

    recently it started again but this time it was the headset cup.there was a loose fit between it and the frame. I had a spare and put it in and problem solved. 20 minute job.

  4. #4
    learning and turning
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    Creaky Jekyll headset

    Will the same remedy work for a creaky Jekyll (800) headset? After about a month, my heaset creaks with almost every movement, although nothing seems to be loose.

    Thanks
    Larry W.

  5. #5
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    same type of headset so I would think so.

  6. #6
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    Process of elimination

    I pulled the whole thing apart. Bearings checked out ok, and I refuse to believe that the cables can cause that kind of creaking. Its gotten to the point where any movement of the headset causes creaking and popping. Its a distraction when cycling... I'm with the previous poster. I figure its the cups. Can those be swapped? Relatively easily? I'm one of those people who like a quite bike and its driving me crazy.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by OBSteve
    I pulled the whole thing apart. Bearings checked out ok, and I refuse to believe that the cables can cause that kind of creaking. Its gotten to the point where any movement of the headset causes creaking and popping. Its a distraction when cycling... I'm with the previous poster. I figure its the cups. Can those be swapped? Relatively easily? I'm one of those people who like a quite bike and its driving me crazy.
    it can be done in less than an hour. I noticed that the headset cups are pretty light duty aluminum and can warp or deform easily. another quick fix if getting the cups is difficult is to use JB weld to fill in the gap between the cup and frame.

  8. #8
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by dang
    it can be done in less than an hour. I noticed that the headset cups are pretty light duty aluminum and can warp or deform easily. another quick fix if getting the cups is difficult is to use JB weld to fill in the gap between the cup and frame.
    AAAAHHHHGGGG, STOP!!!! When will it end? Do not JB WELD your cups, unless you would like them to become a permanent part of your frame. If you got the bike from a Cannondale dealer it is a simple proposition to get new cups, they may have them, if not, they can get them, if they a really lame and cannot do that, contact me, and I will help you out. cats3elton@aol.com If the noise is kind of crinklely, tinny, sounding it is your housings. They have longitudinally running steel wires running through them, and so you have a bunch of sharp wire ends rotating on a brass ferrule with a bunch of grit and grime in it, every time you turn the bars, the housings move, and cause the crinkle. you can verify this by grabbing ahold of all your housings tightly to isolate their movement, and then turning the bar, or do as the smart fellow a few posts ago said, and take your stem off, then turn the wheel. Use the plastic housing ferrules if you must, but they are all for 4mm housing which crams up with crap pretty quickly here in the Northeast, I prefer the 5mm, which gives a bit more room to groove for the cable. A quick cut off the end of the housing freshens things up a bit, and a gob of grease in the ferrule will help keep it quiet a bit longer. Please do not glue your cups in, use a few wraps of teflon tape to tighten it up and quiet it down if need be, or get fresh cups, but I have a feeling the housing fixes will keep you smiling. Have fun!

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