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Thread: Clunky Lefty

  1. #1
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    Clunky Lefty

    I have a used 2007 Lefty Carbon Max that was installed onto my RZ140 about a month ago. LBS checked it out, said it was good during install. Since then, I've had three rides total about 30 miles. On my last ride i noticed some subtle clunking on small bumps, i think it was on the rebound stroke. Also, I noticed a small amount of front to back play when I rocked the fork with the brake applied. Is this typical of a fork needing bearing reset, or the sign of something more serious?

    LBS is saying send it to Cannondale!

  2. #2
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    Had the exact problem , but...

    But instead of the dealer , I sent mine to Craig at Mendon Cycle in Up state NY , he fixed it , smooth like butter and was back on the bike within a week ! It was half of what the dealer fees to boot!

    Forget about your LBS , they cannot do Lefty right , Mendon is the man to talk to when you have a lefty , he lives with these thing everyday

  3. #3
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    Yeah, i hear you. i would definitely send it to Mendon Cycle rather than Cannondale. But, I want to make sure its not just something I could easily do first.

  4. #4
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    Have you done a bearing reset? It's an easy procedure... except you have to use a LOT of force to pull the bearings back to the home position. Don't be shy. I actually used a sand filled rubber mallet, and lots of firm taps. Dunno if I would recommend that to anybody else, but it worked for me.

    Measure your axle to crown. I forgot the measurement, but if you don't meet that magic number, you need a reset. You can also try removing the top of the spring cap and see how far down the top of the spring retainer is from the top. If it's sticking up above the cap at all, it needs a reset. IIRC, the spring retainer split ring should be right about at the top of the fork when let all the way out.

  5. #5
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    Not yet, I am going to try that tonight. this will be my first attempt, so I hope i don't screw it up!

  6. #6
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    If the reset doesn't rid you of the clunk, it may be low on oil. Those forks were prone to leaking out the top end seal around the rebound shaft.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  7. #7
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    I lost lockout on my pbr130, not completely, but it is no longer as firm as it was. Any ideas on what it may be?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vasiliyg View Post
    I lost lockout on my pbr130, not completely, but it is no longer as firm as it was. Any ideas on what it may be?
    Most likely a slow oil leak in the damper. They do lose oil over time and use too, just FYI, not fast, but they do...

    You say it's not as firm. Do you mean there's play at the top, then it gets solid, or, does it blow past the once firm lock, which is still present all the way to the top?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Most likely a slow oil leak in the damper. They do lose oil over time and use too, just FYI, not fast, but they do...

    You say it's not as firm. Do you mean there's play at the top, then it gets solid, or, does it blow past the once firm lock, which is still present all the way to the top?
    there is a small play, just 3-4mm, when the lefty is locked. In the past it was just as stiff as a rigid fork.
    thanks for the help.

  10. #10
    High Desert MTBer
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    Strangely, I was about to post about my Max 130 Carbon when I saw this. I got mine on a Rize 2 about 3 months ago and love it. It was a new bike, just been in the store for a while. When I am climbing, I get a clunking sound as the front is unweighted. It seems to perform fine otherwise, lockout is good altho I do not often use it, and I cannot see any oil leaks. Should I be worried?

  11. #11
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    ok. I consulted local Cannondale dealer and he told me to observe this for while if the travel in lockout is going to increase before taking any action. Maybe situation can freeze.
    I wonder if anyone has something similar and how you managed it?

    I did roughly 3000 km with this fork.

  12. #12
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    Can I bump this thread to see if anyone can give me an answer on my post up there ^... ?

  13. #13
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockerc View Post
    When I am climbing, I get a clunking sound as the front is unweighted. Should I be worried?
    Worried? No.

    Do a bearing reset and get back to us.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  14. #14
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    btw, what kind of oil is used in the lefty max 130 ? Also, is it the same as in DLR SL 110 ?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vasiliyg View Post
    btw, what kind of oil is used in the lefty max 130 ? Also, is it the same as in DLR SL 110 ?
    OEM is Golden Spectro 5 wt. But any good quality fork oil will be fine. Unless you are really heavy,I'd stick with 5wt too.

    Yes, same oil throughout the line.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  16. #16
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    I had to buy a new shock pump as the one I had did not fit inside the opening for the SPV valve. I checked the current pressure and it was 30psi. seems kinda low to me. I pumped it up to 80psi and it felt a lot better. So, i decided to try a bearing reset. Its my first time and I was very nervous taking it apart as the instructions were a little vague and somewhat conflicting. I think I worked it out though. Fork length should be 720-730mm, mine measured about 705. I gave it a few cycles and it did extend. Final length was just shy of 730mm. Regreased and reassembled, then inflated SPV bladder back to 80psi. Feels much more like it used to.

    Is it possible to over extend the fork during bearing reset? I was really scared of going too far and screwing it up completely.

    During disassembly, I discovered the spring was black. I am about 160lbs, and probably carry 10-15lbs in my Hydrapak. Do i base the spring/pressure/rebound settings based on total rider+cargo weight?

    I also noticed that the shrink wrap had worked its way down the spring and it was also split into two halves horizontally. I wound the two pieces back to the top of the spring, but because of all of the grease, i can see it slipping down again. Does it need to be replaced?

    I will keep an eye on the SPV pressure, but is it typical for the bladder to loose pressure? If so, how much would be normal over a week or a month?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by BritOnTour View Post
    Is it possible to over extend the fork during bearing reset?

    During disassembly, I discovered the spring was black. I am about 160lbs, and probably carry 10-15lbs in my Hydrapak. Do i base the spring/pressure/rebound settings based on total rider+cargo weight?

    I also noticed that the shrink wrap had worked its way down the spring and it was also split into two halves horizontally. I wound the two pieces back to the top of the spring, but because of all of the grease, i can see it slipping down again. Does it need to be replaced?

    I will keep an eye on the SPV pressure, but is it typical for the bladder to loose pressure? If so, how much would be normal over a week or a month?
    Yes, you can pull it apart, don't focus on achieving full length, being a few mm's shy is no big deal.

    You want a red, or perhaps even a blue, the SPV is very firming, so most riders find they run a spring softer than typical to get full travel.

    Shrink wrap is of nominal importance. If it's broke, and falling apart, remove it. If you mean there are two parts one above the other, that's normal.

    Check your air valve core, it may be loose in the valve. They don't typically lose pressure that fast....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  18. #18
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    Mendon,

    thanks, I'm very glad i stopped when I did!! OK, so i will order up a blue coil for it. Shrink wrap is in two pieces, but its definitely broken apart, not intentionally split. The split is ragged, but when brought together, the two pieces fit together like a jigsaw puzzle.

    I will check the valve core. I assume a regular schrader tool will work.

  19. #19
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    The wrap gets all funky when they shrink it. If it's in solid shape, it's normal, and is always in two pieces, one above the other.

    Yep, regular valve core tool will do the job.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

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