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Thread: Claymore

  1. #1
    canuck
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    Claymore

    crappy cell picbut threw it together today to check it out.

    will be swapping some stuff out the next couple of weeks



    Uploaded with ImageShack.us

  2. #2
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    I wish i could afford to get one of those. Nice bike let us know a ride review when you get some time in.

  3. #3
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    Got mine last Friday. I'll move some pictures over from another thread. Did you get a sag indicator with your delivery?

  4. #4
    canuck
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    I'll be riding it this fri ..I hope.

    it's not quite finished, I just threw it together at the end of the day ( to tease my coworker) then we split to the brewery...

    hopefully have some action shots soon

  5. #5
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    Or just click on my user gallery for pics. I'm still a little new to this. What pedals are you going with?

  6. #6
    canuck
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    well.. as of now im using wtb 6 dollar pedals that were under my bench...

    I ordered a sunline flat bar and thompson stem today
    next will be a new adj post and chain guide Ill use my saints and truvative guide for now.

    a little at a time...

    oh yeah took it for a quick ride at lunch road a log from the boat ramp and slipped in the rain.OOPS!
    scratch the ***** out of the fork.

    but it is a manual king I can cost it untill I run out of road!

    no big jumps yet.

    But heading to post canyon fri after noon for the weekend so I'll get some good riding in then.

  7. #7
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    Hi,

    Interested to know how you've been getting on with it. Have been looking around the internet but not found too much about the Claymore.

    Out of interest, what weight / size is it?

    Cheers

  8. #8
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    Would be interested in this info as well. Looking to buy either a Specialized Enduro Evo (which I test rode and loved) or Cannondale Claymore 2. Haven't been able to test ride the Claymore yet since they are really hard to find. What are the climbing capabilities of these bikes?

    Thanks!

  9. #9
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    PK117, I'm looking at exactly the same bikes as you; either Claymore or Specy Enduro Evo.

    What did you reckon to the Evo as an all round package, how much of a dog is it to get up the hills (I understand it's around 33lbs?).

    Really like the look of the Claymore, and the 110/180mm push shock idea; but very little out there on the internet

  10. #10
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    I test rode the Evo for maybe 45min, so I cannot tell you too much about it, except that I really liked the feeling of it. It is similar to the regular Enduro (which I rode on the same day) in terms of climbing, but you get the little extra on the downhill, plus I liked the feel of the coil better than the air shock. I test rode both bikes on short, but steep, climbs and technical downhill. I was impressed how these bikes climb. Coming from a Stumpy, I can totally see the Evo as my one-bike quiver. The dropper seatpost is a nice feature, too.

    The pull shock idea is intriguing, but the question is whether the Claymore is as much of an allround bike as the Evo. In terms of weight, they should be pretty much the same. If I remember correctly, the medium sized Evo I tried was at 32lbs.

  11. #11
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    The "two shocks in one" is no joke on the Clay. It's amazing what the flick of the switch does to the way bike handles. I use the 110mm elevate mode for all climbing and also flatter or less aggressive, rolling trails. The higher BB and slightly steeper geo in this mode are perfect for those conditions. Once the trails point down, put it in Flow mode and the bike just opens up and begs to be ridden hard.

  12. #12
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    I have a size large Claymore 2. With pedals it comes in at 33 pounds. I weight 230 pounds (6 feet tall) without gear so I'm running the shock at the upper pressure ranges. Cannondale was nice enough to list pressure recommendations for up to 245 Pound riders.

    Right now I ride in southeast Michigan so the elevation drop isn't that much. I have family in the Mountains of Eastern Kentucky and friends in the mountains of Virginia so this bike was never intended just for hill country. However, I'll be moving to Central / Upstate New York and I'll soon be able to report on much longer descents. I typically ride the Potawatomi (for those who know that trail) and have matched my 18 mile loop times from my hard tail bike. I typically climb in the saddle and the Claymore climbs everything my hardtail did. The gearing (2 x 10) was not an issue. I can climb all the rooty technical work that my prior bike did. A little more body english was required at first but now I don't notice it any difference. My hardtail is set up pretty twitchy so that may just be a personal experience issue.

    I was pleasantly surprised that this bike fit me right off the LBS floor. The bike felt natural, aggressive, and confident. The traction and cornering in Flow mode is phenomenal. I'm now carrying far more speed than I ever did and have started leaning hard carrying speed at the top of roller coaster sections where before I'd have been cranking over the top of the hills. Another quality i'm getting used to is bump absorbtion in High G turns. A couple of times I've been surprised by a change in the trail where I was leaned over far and expected to be upset by a log/ rock. The bike just absorbs it and maintains composure without sideways skip or loss of traction.

    I've had the bike up to 35 mph in downhill sections (brakes off, pedaling in) and while I've achieved some "peripheral visual blur" the bike isn't getting sketchy at all. I really want to see what this bike can do in longer descents. Many of the faster sections in this area include tight "must make" sections between trees forming gaps that leave about 6 inches on either side of the bars. This hasn't been a problem either.

    I can fully recommend the bike. One thing that you may have read is that the bike is big. It is big. The linkages on this bike compared to all others I looked at YETI ASR 7, Giant Reign **, etc. appear much larger. I really don't notice lateral flex on this bike.

    Two technical issues to look out for if you order one. Make sure the LBS checks the torque specs on all the pinch bolts to factory spec. Read the Claymore supplement and understand the assembly requirements. The chainstay pinch bolts were torqued below spec from the factory and the bushing open gap was oriented incorrectly (the latter may have occurred due to use prior to tightening). All other hardware was fine. After I torqued it to spec I've had no issues with the bike.

    Really like the ride. I'll post more as I learn more.

    T

  13. #13
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    TMCL, 2wheelrevolution, PK117,

    Appreciate you posting your experiences with the Claymore, the more I hear about it the more I think I'm going to press the order button.

    As long as the LBS doesn't quote me a ridiculous order time (which I'm kind of half expecting) I think I'll be ordering a Claymore 2 sometime soon!

    Thanks all again.

  14. #14
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    If you want to get your delivery time as short as possible (it may still be long) make sure that your bike shop pays for the bike up front. Not all LBS do that. My LBS owner said that those that pay up front get priority.

  15. #15
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    TMCL, thanks for the detailed review. I had the privilege of checking one out yesterday at the LBS and it is massive. Did you do any upgrades on yours or are you riding the stock version? I did not like the handlebars it had on it, and I'd want to put a remote seatpost and a chainguide on, all things that the EVO has, so I might just end up with the EVO after all (assuming the 2012s are staying the same).

  16. #16
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    I immediately swapped the handlebars on mine, as 680mm isnt nearly wide enough for a bike like this.

    As for a chain guide, with the bikes being spec'd with the 2X10 cranks, they aren't chain guide friendly. I'm in the process of converting my crank to a Shimano so I can run a single ring and chain guide. Not a fan of the 2x10 at all.

  17. #17
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    Yes, that makes sense. Overall, I think the Specy is better suited for me. Jambo13, FYI, the LBS I went to yesterday said that Cannondale currently has mediums in stock and it would only take about 7 business days to get it... Not quite convinced of that, but hey...

  18. #18
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    Thanks for the heads up PK117, I'm waiting for the LBS to get back to me with availability in the UK.

    I'm after an XL (I'm 6ft 6), hence the reason my list has narrowed to the Specy or the CDale. Most decent Euro brands have decided tall folk don't like hooning downhill for some bizarre reason!

  19. #19
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    PK117 I'm riding stock. Seat dropper was part of my decision process but I decided to wait a generation to see who is the consensus in quality and reliability. I wasn't convinced as to who has the least fuss most reliable seat dropper. I know I want one, I used HiteRites back in 1987- 1990 on rigid bikes for running long descents in Virginia/Kentucky. I'll be shopping this fall / winter. I'd be interested on any feedback on dropper posts.

    As to bar width I think it depends on where you're riding. The stock width is good for narrow tree lined downhill lines at speed (Michigan). Open up the lines and increase speed an I'll put a wider bar on the bike. My hardtail has a wider bar than the Claymore, I was riding on strip mine and gas well access roads in eastern kentucky where there are long very steep (and eroded) grades that are accessible by tracked or high wheel vehicles only. Riding very steep extended off camber eroded troughs is made easier with a lot more leverage on the front wheel. I'll change the bar as needed to suit the conditions.

    2x10 has been trouble free for me. I did the gear inch math in the shopping and was satisfied with ratios for climbing and descending. I noticed on my 3x gearset I was predominately using maybe 11 - 12 of the possible combinations so the 2x10 made sense to me. I might change the big ring in front if I find I'm running out of gear when I move to longer descents in upstate NY.

    T

  20. #20
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    I'm already used to a heavy AM bike as my Prophet weighs 34.5 lb. How will the Claymore compare on trails in climbs. I already figure it will be better on downhills. Singletracks ? tight and twisty?

  21. #21
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    Think I'd be able to ride a Claymore with my fat-ass being 265#? This bike is so sexy, I know I'll be dropping the lbs fast so I don't exactly want to get cheap bike to beat up on first.

  22. #22
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    I think you'd have no problem at 265#. I'm 235 "dry" no gear. The bike is solid when peddling out of the saddle. Cannondale doesn't set weight limits for the bikes. You would be outside the shock pressurization table posted on the sticker. The highest listed is 245 pounds but talk to the LBS or cannondale rep or FOX about the DYAD2 to see if you can (or even need) to pressurize it higher. My guess is that unless you are riding like CVD at RedBull you'd be just fine with the 245 lb settings. The sag will just be a little lower. For the terrain in SE Michigan I'm thinking about dropping the pressure down a level or two from the 235 level. I suppose when I get the bike back from a free tuneup I could do a bit of research on what running the sag 30 pounds lighter rides like and let you know. I'm in the middle of a move so I can't guarantee that will happen soon but I'll try.

    T

  23. #23
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    mickeydesadist; Singletrack is what I ride most right now and it's fine. When climbing something really technical and steep, the front wheel is going to tend to lift or wander just a little more than an xc hardtail with a long low riding position. I've adapted pretty quickly, just slide forward a little. You could also increase the shock pressure some to raise the sag. I haven't tried the attitude adjust option yet. I'm riding in the low bottom bracket height position. If you go into the high bottom bracket position it will steepen the effective geometry. That's something else to experiment with. Not knowing what Tight and twisty means to you I'll say that It whips right through narrow gates (trees) spaced very close to bar snagging distance. I guess the best way to compare it is that it handles low and moderate speed manuevers as well as any xc hardtail.

    Extremely slow and tight moves requiring track stands, wheel hops, and other trials moves are do-able but you'll need a lot more body input to make them happen. If you regularly stop and make 180 degree pivot turns on the front wheel you can do that, but it's going to take more effort and a higher arc and more commitment to get clear of the fork angle.

    You know that you're not on pure XC bike when climbing but it climbs just fine. The cornering speeds and tracking put in another world compared to anything else. And the descending and high speed handling I've not been able to touch the limits of yet simply due to geography.

    Maybe the best analogy is to say that it's like a motorcycle without a motor. At 33 pounds it takes incredible lean angles and when pushed beyond what the fat albert's will stick to, it quickly regains composure and hooks up to whatever is next. If you've ever ridden a dirt bike (motorcycle) off road and pinned the perfect turn with one leg out, the bike leaned over so the pegs are dragging, and the throttle wide open, that's kind of the experience...expect with a lot less sliding around.

  24. #24
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    Well, looks like I am going to either have to wait for the 2012 range, or get another bike, as I've been told by the LBS that Cannondale aren't bringing anymore Claymores in XL into the UK this year :'-(

  25. #25
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    Great review!

  26. #26
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    Bummer about no more XL frames coming into the U.S. this year.
    I can add that I just road my HardTail XC bike on the exact trails I'd been riding the Claymore. I had a short stem I use on a pump track instead of my usual long / low stem on it. Claymore wins on the climbs. Next time I do that, the long stem is going back on the hardtail.
    I can also recommend having the rear wheel tensioned up above the stock condition when delivered. The LBS has a good custom wheel builder and as a part of the lifetime free tune-ups he retensioned the rear wheel. I check spoke tension every ride by "ear" and the spokes sound like they went up a 5th or an octave. The ride was much improved, it made a responsive bike even more responsive. I'll let you know how it rides on trail as soon as I get a chance.

  27. #27
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    Can anyone of the Claymore owners please tell me whats the maximum length of a seatpost that can be totally dumped in the seattube of a M-Frame???


    Thanks

  28. #28
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    Sorry for the slow reply, I've got a Large Frame, still interested in how much seat tube you can get in?

  29. #29
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    Felt the same way on the Jekyll carbon. Great climbing and stretched out cockpit. Kept up with my freeride friends nicely even though I primarily do xc on my 29er.

    Good stuff C-Dale.
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  30. #30
    canuck
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    claymore is for sale in classifieds and on the bay

  31. #31
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    I just added a Kind Shock Supernatural Remote Seatpost to the Claymore (size large, I'm 6 ft tall) Fit perfectly for me. I dropped it all the way in and then backed out a mm or two. Got on and the height was perfect for climbing. 150 mm of drop is a lot of clearance. I can see why some reviewers said this might be almost too much drop. If you aren't tall enough you'll need to cut and polish the edges of the insertion end to get full use out of the post. Very smooth so far. We'll see how it stands up to a few months of use.

  32. #32
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    After 3 or 4 rides on the Kind Shock Supernatural I can no longer recommend it. I contacted the company and they were non-responsive to my request for repair. I'm going to send it back to Jenson under the 60 day return policy and try a gravity dropper next.

  33. #33
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    how does the claymore compare to bikes like the enduro, commencal meta sx, norco range, and RMB slayer?

  34. #34
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    I can't say, I haven't ridden any of them. Reiterate that it has been quite reliable. Mechanically very tolerant of nasty conditions of late. Thick gooey mud on the trails where the county decided it would be a great time to do some selective timbering in the forest even with our very high late season rainfall.

  35. #35
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    claymore is gone to france.

    got a new jekyll carbon 1 on it's way. woohoo!

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron D View Post
    claymore is gone to france.

    got a new jekyll carbon 1 on it's way. woohoo!
    What made you want to swap to a Jekyll ?

  37. #37
    canuck
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    The claymore was to much travel for my needs and to much bike.

    It was a little tight in the cockpit as well.

    I don't know if you know about Duthieskills park but I ended up just using my hard tale on everything there and not using the bigger bike anymore...

    but after a looong day of hitting bigger gaps the back gets kinda wore out so I figured a mid travel bike would do the trick, I also do a lot of xc riding and this bike just fits all my needs.

    I'll be doing the Oregon super D series this year and the claymore would be a slug.

    I'll also be putting on a fox float 36 as well.

  38. #38
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    Hey guys, reviving an old thread here. Found this post as im searching for info on the claymore2. To the current users, how has the bike held up, specially the dyad shock? Im located in Panama and im shopping for a new bike, actually just posted a lengthy post in the all mountain forum. Would you say the 180mm is overkill for anything less than super steep, gnarly stuff? Any thoughts, updates on your bikes is appreciated.

  39. #39
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    The DYAD shock has had no issues in 14 months of use. I've had 0 other issues after the initial setup comments (see earlier parts of the thread). The Claymore is a great confidence inspiring bike for going very big or very fast. I don't go very big, but I do go like going downhill pretty fast. I would be fine on a shorter travel bike but I'd never give up the claymore just for the stability and predictability in descending.

    I agree with Aaron D about the Duthie Hill Park comments. You don't need the claymore length of suspension for that park (Plenty of Duthie Hill videos available on you tube) I was visiting Seattle two weeks ago and rented a Heckler from Montlake bikes and that was just fine at Duthie (and I weigh 235). I might need more rear shock on the Heckler, (possibly just more air pressure) but that travel was plenty adequate. That said, I like the Claymore's stability at high speed over successive bumps, rollers, jumps and loose trail and it's just an awesome fun bike to ride. If you want the fastest way around a cross country trail you should probably look elsewhere. I recently went back to old trails in Michigan and rode a 29er MCR (steel hardtail) and had a great and fast time on the Poto near Ann Arbor, MI.

    As for cross country speed on the Claymore, I just setup a pair of black flag pro wheels with Mutano Race 2.4 tires (stans tubeless). I'm going to try those on the Claymore for longer rides involving less mud and loose downhill. I'll let you know, they are a bit light and so far I can say they definitely improve efficiency. You'd kind of expect that compared to the Fat Alberts.

  40. #40
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    Hello everyone!
    Big rider question.
    I'm 192cm / 6.3

    Will be Claymore 2 L enough for me?
    Seems there is no XL Claymore's available...

    I currently have GT force L with 600 mm / 23.6 ETT and 70mm / 2.75 stem.
    It feels great on descends, but i feel like i need a bit longer top tube during 50+ km rides.

  41. #41
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    Claymore

    Quote Originally Posted by TMCL View Post
    Sorry for the slow reply, I've got a Large Frame, still interested in how much seat tube you can get in?
    i need this info. going to buy KS lev dropper post and not sure which size to go (435/150 mm or 385/125)
    and i do not have the bike available yet. still waiting for my 2013 Large Claymore 2 to arrive.

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