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Cannondale trigger 29er main pivot problems

6K views 15 replies 5 participants last post by  Morgs010 
#1 ·
I have just noticed that there is play in my main pivot. The bike is less than a year old and wax wandering whether it is a warranty item. I have checked for obvious looseness but can't find anything.
I wod be disappointed if it was worn out bearings as it is less than a year old.

Any advice from owners who may have had a similar problem.
 
#2 ·
I have now taken it on to have a look at the main pivot bearings as I have been advised that they likely just need re-loctiting in again. I am having real problems removing the main pivot. I have loosened all the pinch bolts and the front dreallier mount, but cannot remove the main pivot fastening bolt on the non drive side. I have now rounded the bolt as it would not undo. I then used a bolt remover but the main pivot shaft just turns on the bearings and the bolt remains tight.
Am I missing something here. In the manual this bolt shod be tightened to 5nm, however it seems totally locked and unmoveable.
Please,anyone who had removed the main pivot on a trigger or jekyll let me know what needs to be done to remove the main pivot bolt and inspect the bearings.
 
#4 ·
Morgs - can you tighten the pinch bolt back up on the drive side? This will hold the pivot axle, allowing you to remove the bolt that I assume you refer to - the one that just holds a cap/cover on the pivot axle on the non-drive side.

I'm referring to the main pivot axle pictured top of page 11 here: http://media.cannondale.com/media/manuals/2011_webOMS_01_english/2011_webOMS_126584_Jekyll_EN.pdf and I'm assuming/guessing you're talking about bolt #8? It doesn't have a torque spec as far as I can tell.
 
#5 ·
I'm referring to the main pivot axle pictured top of page 11 here: http://media.cannondale.com/media/manuals/2011_webOMS_01_english/2011_webOMS_126584_Jekyll_EN.pdf and I'm assuming/guessing you're talking about bolt #8? It doesn't have a torque spec as far as I can tell.

Yes that's the one bolt 8. Unfortunately it rounded so will have to remove by drilling out. They are convinced that the bearing will just need re-seating with bearing fixing loctite . Not convinced myself.
Really not happy as the manual said that all pinch bolts should be torqued to 5nm and this bolt is listed as a lunch bolt in the manual, it says that torques should be checked regularly and when I did this it immediately rounded without the torque wrench clicking on 5nm.
Clearly it was over tightened when fitted and left for the next person to find out that there is a problem.
 
#6 ·
On my Jekyll they were a generic bearing, I used some Enduro ones - you don't have to specifically go to Cannondale. They seem to be the ones most in the firing line of getting covered in crap - hopefully when you get that bolt out you'll be able to pull the axle and have a look at them.

Another thought - can you use a cutting disc on a dremel to cut a slot across the top of that bolt and use a large flat head screwdriver? Keep the drive side pinch bolt done up to keep the axle from rotating.
 
#7 ·
There is certainly a huge amount of dirt and mud in the gap on the non drive side where the play is. It almost needs a rubber shield making as there is plenty of space. May look at cutting up an old tube to put over the axle next to the bearing to protect it a bit. Not a great design really as it is very exposed.i know Mondraker have the same problem with their dune and foxy. This bear they have made a plastic guard that fits on to the frame near the rear wheel which stops crap from going in the main pivot
 
#9 ·
There was a post here a month or two back where a guy had made some white looking spacers (looked like teflon or nylon) that he inserted into the gaps in the pivot points. Seems crazy that the bearings are so exposed - particularly those around the main pivot since they cop the crap flying off the back wheel. I replaced both of mine after a year or two because they were gritty. I used Enduro bearings which come pre-packed full of grease to help with longevity.
 
#10 ·
Thanks kbekus, I have now removed the pivot and replaced the bearings that were completely worn out. Very easy job once I got the end bolt off. Ended up sharpening screw driver and tapping it into the rounded end as yo suggested. I replaced the main pivot axle and end bolt aswell as bearings. My shop supplied these free of charge so overall I am very happy.
That back end is super stiff again and it goes like a dream.
 
#11 ·
Glad you got it taken care of. I had the same issue (see my post here). Drive-side main pivot bearing had disintegrated (no balls or cage).

http://forums.mtbr.com/cannondale/help-me-diagnose-flexy-pivot-trigger-scalpel-917530.html

Though it was out of warranty period, LBS (Halter's Cycles, NJ) replaced all bearings and axles at no charge. They didn't feel it was right for the bearing to self-destruct within 18 months of use (I agree). Rest of bearings were in good shape, even the non-drive side main pivot bearing, where you would figure mud/water would've taken their toll.
 
#12 ·
Yes they do go very quick and are not the sturdiest bearings. However, providing the end bolt doesn't round, they are easy to replace. Took me 30 minutes in the end. So I will now add this job to general maintenance/service jobs that I do once a year. Better quality beatings only cost me £5.
 
#14 ·
Bugeye - I used the Cannondale KP169 set Cannondale Jekyll Pivot Tool - KP169/ - CannondaleExperts.com ... it has a tool to tap the old bearings out and other tools to press the new ones in. Having said that I don't know if it's just me but using the driver fittings I struggled to get the bearing to start square - so I started them with a hammer tapping around the outside, and once they were on their way in I used the tool.
 
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