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  1. #1
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    Cannondale scalpel carbon 2 eagle with quarq xx1 boost powermeter

    Hey guys

    Someone having a quarq xx1 boost powermeter on the new scalpel 2017?
    Seems to work but only with a max of 32T chainring.
    Correct? Or is there a 34T also possible?

    Thanks
    V

  2. #2
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    BB30 SRAM cranks are highly adaptable. The two best current options to get a Quarq on a bike with Ai offset rear end.
    1- Install the boost crankset with a 2.5mm shorter driveside spacer. Use a 2.5mm spacer and a wavy washer on the non-drive side. This will place your chainline where it was originally designed for the Ai offset rear end. You should be able to run the normal range of chainrings. This means your crankset is off centre in the frame towards the driveside 2.5mm.
    2- Install the non-boost crankset with an Ai spindle (buy as spare part from Cannondale). You have to knock the original spindle out by disassembling the bolt marked ‘do not disassemble’. Use the original driveside spacer and your chainline will be where it is intended for the Ai offset rear end. You can run the normal range of chainrings. The non-driveside will require a 5mm spacer and a wavy washer or just the threaded preload ring. Your crankset will be off centre in the frame towards the non-driveside 3mm. Your q-factor will be 16mm larger. This is the method Cannondale have used to fit the XX1 eagle crankset OEM to their Team bike.
    You could also install the non-boost crankset straight into the bike by using the normal driveside spacer and only a wavy washer on the non-driveside. You get to keep your normal q-factor but the crankset is offset 5mm to the driveside.

  3. #3
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    Thanks a lot!

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    Quote Originally Posted by aussie_yeti View Post
    BB30 SRAM cranks are highly adaptable. The two best current options to get a Quarq on a bike with Ai offset rear end.
    1- Install the boost crankset with a 2.5mm shorter driveside spacer. Use a 2.5mm spacer and a wavy washer on the non-drive side. This will place your chainline where it was originally designed for the Ai offset rear end. You should be able to run the normal range of chainrings. This means your crankset is off centre in the frame towards the driveside 2.5mm.
    2- Install the non-boost crankset with an Ai spindle (buy as spare part from Cannondale). You have to knock the original spindle out by disassembling the bolt marked ‘do not disassemble’. Use the original driveside spacer and your chainline will be where it is intended for the Ai offset rear end. You can run the normal range of chainrings. The non-driveside will require a 5mm spacer and a wavy washer or just the threaded preload ring. Your crankset will be off centre in the frame towards the non-driveside 3mm. Your q-factor will be 16mm larger. This is the method Cannondale have used to fit the XX1 eagle crankset OEM to their Team bike.
    You could also install the non-boost crankset straight into the bike by using the normal driveside spacer and only a wavy washer on the non-driveside. You get to keep your normal q-factor but the crankset is offset 5mm to the driveside.
    I believe the AI offset moves the crank 6mm to the driveside (right and out) vs a conventional setup. Looking at the 3 options you lay out above, am I correct in that your crank will be moved out from 2.5mm to 5mm, depending on which option you choose? In other words, 1mm to 3.5mm inboard of the "ideal" AI chainline? And if that is correct, why wouldn't you just use the 3rd option, which seems to be the easiest to implement (just play with spacers and wavy washers) and your chainline is only 1mm off "ideal?" What is the downside? Is it that you've shifted the entire crankset 5mm so that you no longer have a balanced stance over the bike?

    I love my 2017 Scalpel SI Team w/ XX1 Eagle but the difficulty/inability get a PM to work with the AI offset is a real bummer.

  5. #5
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    Installing a gxp crankset with adapters and run a stages? Isn't that an option

  6. #6
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    What is the difference in the Eagle crankset found on the Scalpel Team vs those that SRAM is selling online in the conventional or boost version, just the AI spindle? I was interested in putting a Quarq powermeter on my Scalpel but I'm not sure which method would work the best. I asked my LBS the other day and they were going to check with SRAM as they weren't really sure either.

  7. #7
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    Buy the standard powermeter (not boost).

    Take the Ai spindle out of the Eagle crankset that came on your bike.

    Install your powermeter with the spindle out of the Eagle crankset.

    If you no longer need the stock crankset install the spindle that came with the powermeter and sell it as a crankset that fits a standard non boost/Ai frame. I'd keep it though if you ever want to sell the bike and keep the powermeter.

  8. #8
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    Is there something special about the non-driveside arm that comes with the quarq crankset?

    Why bother with knocking the spindle loose, cant you just use the non-driveside arm and spindle form the crankset that comes with the bike together with the driveside from the quarq crankset?

  9. #9
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    You can do that too. Will work perfectly.

    This guy will just have X01 decals on non-drive and XX1 decals on driveside then.

  10. #10
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    Hello...
    I just bought my scalpel carbon 2 eagle upgraded to xx1 eagle. For that I loose both cranks and put the cannondale special spindle.
    To keep chainline I have 3mm offset chainring.
    I noticed that now I have my crankset moved to the left 3mm.
    I would like to get:
    1- cranks perfectly centered with the frame
    2- quark PM
    Is there a way to get both conditions?

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  11. #11
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    Get non-boost XX1 eagle quarq. Install with cannondale Ai 137mm spindle.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by aussie_yeti View Post
    Get non-boost XX1 eagle quarq. Install with cannondale Ai 137mm spindle.
    Quarq guys don't ensure you right power data with this option 😔😔...

    From dc rainmaker site...
    Cannondale’s 2017 Scalpel has the Asymmetric Integration (AI) offset rear triangle and drivetrain, which pushes the chain line out by 6mm. Quarq does not have a power meter designed for AI. We offer XX1 Eagle power meters in standard and Boost 148 configurations. Boost 148 pushes the chain line out 3mm. The Boost 148 power meter is what riders typically use on Cannondale’s AI bikes. You should be aware, however, that it is not directly compatible and shifting performance can vary. We recommend you seek input from other riders who are doing this before buying one

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  13. #13
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    Well you can install them with the stock spindle by getting 5mm less spacers on each side of the bottom bracket shell. That will mean your chainline is too narrow (6mm with standard, 3mm with boost). With small chainrings you'll probably be alright, but severe angle to smaller cogs on cassette. Bigger chainrings will probably hit the chainstays.

    The only way around the chainline issue is to install a longer spindle, or have the crankset installed offset to one side in the frame.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by aussie_yeti View Post
    Well you can install them with the stock spindle by getting 5mm less spacers on each side of the bottom bracket shell. That will mean your chainline is too narrow (6mm with standard, 3mm with boost). With small chainrings you'll probably be alright, but severe angle to smaller cogs on cassette. Bigger chainrings will probably hit the chainstays.

    The only way around the chainline issue is to install a longer spindle, or have the crankset installed offset to one side in the frame.
    Sure... definitely I'm using the cannondale,s specific spindle. At this point I suppose that Quarq is not an option because they don't give me any warranty of precission.

    Any other suggestions for putting a powermeter on scalpel?

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by aussie_yeti View Post
    Get non-boost XX1 eagle quarq. Install with cannondale Ai 137mm spindle.
    Sorry... but another doubt...
    When you wrote "This is the method Cannondale have used to fit the XX1 eagle crankset OEM to their Team bike." Are you saying that cannondale are selling a very expensive bike with crankset not centered with the frame??
    😓😓😓
    It will help to put a 3mm spacer on the non drive side and chainring with 6mm offset?


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  16. #16
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    Stages suggest to put an stages-SLK left crank with a stages E-spindle to have a powermeter on scalpel 2017. I will investigate deeper on this solution

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  17. #17
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    The SRAM crankset that comes stock has an 'Ai' spindle anodised black. They have a custom spacer arrangement though so I'd assume the crankset is centred.

  18. #18
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    Stages E-spindle + Stages BB30 carbon works fine. Had to change driveside spacer (16mm) to a 13 mm spacer, and change chainring (6mm offset) to chainring with 3mm offset.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanielNorway View Post
    Stages E-spindle + Stages BB30 carbon works fine. Had to change driveside spacer (16mm) to a 13 mm spacer, and change chainring (6mm offset) to chainring with 3mm offset.
    Thanks for the info.
    I suppose you changed the drive side spacer because the E spindle is shorter than the original, right?

    Can you tell me how long is your non drive spacer?



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  20. #20
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    Changed because E-spindle is shorter yes, so stages-arm hit chainstay. Had 7,5mm spacer on non-drive side.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DanielNorway View Post
    Changed because E-spindle is shorter yes, so stages-arm hit chainstay. Had 7,5mm spacer on non-drive side.
    So, with your setup... cranks are centered with the frame?
    My problem at this moment with XX1 crank set is that is moved 3mm to the left side

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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanielNorway View Post
    Changed because E-spindle is shorter yes, so stages-arm hit chainstay. Had 7,5mm spacer on non-drive side.
    And one more question...
    With your setup, can you use a 36T chainring?

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  23. #23
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    Im not sure if cranks are centered in the frame, I adjusted the cranks so that clearance between crankarms and chainstays are "equal" on both sides. (But chainstays are asymmetrical I guess)

    Since the original left crankarm and spindle is wider than the Stages crankarm and E-spindle, I had to move the hole thing to the left, or else stages-arm would hit chainstay.

    Moved it 3mm to the left, and changed chainrings from 6mm to 3mm offset, then chainline is equal to the original one. And 36T chainring was no problem, think 38T would work also, but have not tried that.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanielNorway View Post
    Im not sure if cranks are centered in the frame, I adjusted the cranks so that clearance between crankarms and chainstays are "equal" on both sides. (But chainstays are asymmetrical I guess)

    Since the original left crankarm and spindle is wider than the Stages crankarm and E-spindle, I had to move the hole thing to the left, or else stages-arm would hit chainstay.

    Moved it 3mm to the left, and changed chainrings from 6mm to 3mm offset, then chainline is equal to the original one. And 36T chainring was no problem, think 38T would work also, but have not tried that.
    Thank you... 38T is too hard for me

    To have crank arms centered with frame is very important due to bio-mechanical function, and prevent physical issues. Based on your comments, as chainstays are asymmetrical, I guess your crankset is not centered. Can you get some measures for me, please?
    The easiest way to prove it is measuring from the external side of the left crank to the right edge of the frame and from the external side of the right crank to the left edge of the frame (putting cranks at 2 o'clock more or less). Both measures should be the same to be centered.

    Thank you!!!

  25. #25
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    Sorry, cant measure since Im only using the original setup at the moment.

    The only thing I know is that right crankarm is moved 3mm to the left compared to original setup. Guessing that left crankarm was moved 3mm +/-1mm to the right, there was less clearance between stages-arm and chainstay than in original setup.

    This means that q-factor was reduced with 6mm +/-1mm compared to orignal setup, and Im guessing that center of crankset w/stages is moved 0mm +/-0.5mm compared to original setup.

    If you think that you need to move the crankset further to the right I think you have to try the FSA S-lk bb30 stages arm, since its more curved than the stages carbon bb30 arm. Havent tried this though.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanielNorway View Post
    Sorry, cant measure since Im only using the original setup at the moment.

    The only thing I know is that right crankarm is moved 3mm to the left compared to original setup. Guessing that left crankarm was moved 3mm +/-1mm to the right, there was less clearance between stages-arm and chainstay than in original setup.

    This means that q-factor was reduced with 6mm +/-1mm compared to orignal setup, and Im guessing that center of crankset w/stages is moved 0mm +/-0.5mm compared to original setup.

    If you think that you need to move the crankset further to the right I think you have to try the FSA S-lk bb30 stages arm, since its more curved than the stages carbon bb30 arm. Havent tried this though.
    The use of FSA S-lk is the recommended option from stages support team...
    I think I will try this configuration

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    I asked Stages Europe and this is the anser i got:

    Hi Goran,

    thanks a lot for the information.
    Yes, we do have a compatible power meter.
    Is the Stages Power SL-K BB30 with Spindle E:

    https://stagescycling.com/eneu/products/sl-k-bb30/

    This combination is the only possible on the new Scaplel.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoranH View Post
    I asked Stages Europe and this is the anser i got:

    Hi Goran,

    thanks a lot for the information.
    Yes, we do have a compatible power meter.
    Is the Stages Power SL-K BB30 with Spindle E:

    https://stagescycling.com/eneu/products/sl-k-bb30/

    This combination is the only possible on the new Scaplel.
    I just have this solution...


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  29. #29
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    Is there any crank-boot that fit the stages-arm?

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanielNorway View Post
    Is there any crank-boot that fit the stages-arm?
    The crank comes with the right crank boot

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  31. #31
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    Have you tried? I have the sram bb30 stages arm and it is to wide for the crank boot too fit. Maybe the slk-stages has a different shape..

  32. #32
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    Yes, I tried it. It fits perfectly.
    Have you mounted the sram bb30 stages? I would like to do that but Stages told me that is no compatible with AI and crank maybe touch the bike frame....

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by marcospg View Post
    Have you mounted the sram bb30 stages?
    Yes, see post #18

    Does your stages-arm look like this?
    http://www.cyclepowermeters.com/medi...-sl-k-bb30.jpg

    or this?
    https://stagescycling.com/global/wp-...n-bb30-3up.jpg

    My stages bb30-arm looks like this:
    https://stagescycling.com/global/wp-...ter-Carbon.jpg

    and there is no way to fit a crank boot. The carbon shape around the pedal is way more "square-shaped" than original sram-crank that has a rounder shape.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by DanielNorway View Post
    Yes, see post #18

    Does your stages-arm look like this?
    http://www.cyclepowermeters.com/medi...-sl-k-bb30.jpg

    or this?
    https://stagescycling.com/global/wp-...n-bb30-3up.jpg

    My stages bb30-arm looks like this:
    https://stagescycling.com/global/wp-...ter-Carbon.jpg

    and there is no way to fit a crank boot. The carbon shape around the pedal is way more "square-shaped" than original sram-crank that has a rounder shape.
    My stages arm looks like the second one (grey) and the boot is square shape so, fits right

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  35. #35
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    Probably worst picture ever, but this illustrates my problem:
    https://imgur.com/a/xgwMt

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    I installed a Quarq XX1 Dzero Power Meter Crankset (NON Boost) on my 2017 Scalpel Team. I've been hammering on it for a little more then a week now with no issues.
    I used the Ai spindle from the stock crankset. And I resembled with everything that was removed, in the exact same placement. I use an Absolute Black 34T oval chain ring with a 104 BCD. The chainline is exactly as it was. And there is no crank arm offset to one side or the other. I checked the crank arm distances to the downtube before and after using a micrometer.

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    fcris: So it is still possible to use a 36 chainring without rubbing, the distance to the chainstay is still the same as with the original crankarm?

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by fcris View Post
    I installed a Quarq XX1 Dzero Power Meter Crankset (NON Boost) on my 2017 Scalpel Team. I've been hammering on it for a little more then a week now with no issues.
    I used the Ai spindle from the stock crankset. And I resembled with everything that was removed, in the exact same placement. I use an Absolute Black 34T oval chain ring with a 104 BCD. The chainline is exactly as it was. And there is no crank arm offset to one side or the other. I checked the crank arm distances to the downtube before and after using a micrometer.
    Great info. Do you happen to know if new firmware for proper power readings on oval chainrings is available now and do you have any power reading issue when chainring hits something (rocks, ...)? Thx much

  39. #39
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    GoranH: If the Scalpel was originally supposed to accept a 36 chainring then it still should. The alignment is exactly the same as stock. It looks like there's plenty of clearance.

    MartinPL: I wasn't that concerned about power figures being slightly skewed a few percent... if at all. It's for personal performance, and comparisons, so as long as it's consistent. Though, I can test the reading of the oval vs round on a known course if I get a chance. And I'm not sure about how robust it is until I manage to break it. I don't do rocks, but I'm a big log hopper, so it gets its share of pounding. I can say that these spider chainrings look fragile compared to the stock SRAM direct mount, which I've folded on two occasions already.

    I'll keep you guys posted if something changes.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by fcris View Post
    Quarq XX1 Dzero ... as long as it's consistent. ...
    Totally. My Scalpel Si Team will be ordered any day. I might ping you later asking some questions regarding Quarq XX1 Dzero setup. Cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by DanielNorway View Post
    Probably worst picture ever, but this illustrates my problem:
    https://imgur.com/a/xgwMt
    This is mine...

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoranH View Post
    I asked Stages Europe and this is the anser i got:

    Hi Goran,

    thanks a lot for the information.
    Yes, we do have a compatible power meter.
    Is the Stages Power SL-K BB30 with Spindle E:

    https://stagescycling.com/eneu/products/sl-k-bb30/

    This combination is the only possible on the new Scaplel.
    However has anyone tried to install Stages on Hollowgram crank? Just from the photo it seems like it might suit it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by marcospg View Post
    This is mine...
    Did this come with your stages arm?

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    Yes... this came with my crank arm

  45. #45
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    Thx to fcris for the pointer to Quarq XX1 Dzero. I installed it on my new 2018 Scalpel Si Team (it came with Eagle). Ultra easy setup - all I had to do was to remove the drive side arm from the spindle and mount Quarq's drive side. The left sides are absolutely identical mechanically and visually. So I have the original left side, original Ai spindle and Quarq's right side. I also ride oval on most of my bikes and installed Absolute Black 4X104 36T. Everything works perfectly. Same chain-line setup as original. Super smooth shifting.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by joolio View Post
    However has anyone tried to install Stages on Hollowgram crank? Just from the photo it seems like it might suit it.
    Works flawlessly


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  47. #47
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    That looks close :O
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrizzzz View Post
    That looks close :O
    Works fine, clearance is OK


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    Hello, I write from Chile, South America. We are very interested in installing Quarq XX1 DZero Power meter in our scalpel fsi team 2017. Please, you could send the characteristics of the Dzero that you installed in your bike. Please, we are looking for this a while ago.
    Greetings and we are waiting for your help

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by martinPL View Post
    Thx to fcris for the pointer to Quarq XX1 Dzero. I installed it on my new 2018 Scalpel Si Team (it came with Eagle). Ultra easy setup - all I had to do was to remove the drive side arm from the spindle and mount Quarq's drive side. The left sides are absolutely identical mechanically and visually. So I have the original left side, original Ai spindle and Quarq's right side. I also ride oval on most of my bikes and installed Absolute Black 4X104 36T. Everything works perfectly. Same chain-line setup as original. Super smooth shifting.
    Hello, I write from Chile, South America. We are very interested in installing Quarq XX1 DZero Power meter in our scalpel fsi team 2017. Please, you could send the characteristics of the Dzero that you installed in your bike. Please, we are looking for this a while ago.
    Greetings and we are waiting for your help

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by AAtria View Post
    Hello, I write from Chile, South America. We are very interested in installing Quarq XX1 DZero Power meter in our scalpel fsi team 2017. Please, you could send the characteristics of the Dzero that you installed in your bike. Please, we are looking for this a while ago.
    Greetings and we are waiting for your help
    I did almost exactly what fcris did (mentioned above). Quarq XX1 DZero power meter (non-boost) with the original Ai spindle. Not sure what crank 2017 model comes with but mine (2018) had exactly the same non-drive arm as Quarq XX1 DZero so all I did was replacement of the drive side crank-arm. 5 minute job.

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by martinPL View Post
    Thx to fcris for the pointer to Quarq XX1 Dzero. I installed it on my new 2018 Scalpel Si Team (it came with Eagle). Ultra easy setup - all I had to do was to remove the drive side arm from the spindle and mount Quarq's drive side. The left sides are absolutely identical mechanically and visually. So I have the original left side, original Ai spindle and Quarq's right side. I also ride oval on most of my bikes and installed Absolute Black 4X104 36T. Everything works perfectly. Same chain-line setup as original. Super smooth shifting.
    Quote Originally Posted by martinPL View Post
    I did almost exactly what fcris did (mentioned above). Quarq XX1 DZero power meter (non-boost) with the original Ai spindle. Not sure what crank 2017 model comes with but mine (2018) had exactly the same non-drive arm as Quarq XX1 DZero so all I did was replacement of the drive side crank-arm. 5 minute job.
    Please confirm if it is Sram XX1 eagle power meter chassis with spindle BB30 (30 mm), conventional Chain Line (non boost).

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    Quote Originally Posted by martinPL View Post
    Thx to fcris for the pointer to Quarq XX1 Dzero. I installed it on my new 2018 Scalpel Si Team (it came with Eagle). Ultra easy setup - all I had to do was to remove the drive side arm from the spindle and mount Quarq's drive side. The left sides are absolutely identical mechanically and visually. So I have the original left side, original Ai spindle and Quarq's right side. I also ride oval on most of my bikes and installed Absolute Black 4X104 36T. Everything works perfectly. Same chain-line setup as original. Super smooth shifting.
    Quote Originally Posted by fcris View Post
    I installed a Quarq XX1 Dzero Power Meter Crankset (NON Boost) on my 2017 Scalpel Team. I've been hammering on it for a little more then a week now with no issues.
    I used the Ai spindle from the stock crankset. And I resembled with everything that was removed, in the exact same placement. I use an Absolute Black 34T oval chain ring with a 104 BCD. The chainline is exactly as it was. And there is no crank arm offset to one side or the other. I checked the crank arm distances to the downtube before and after using a micrometer.
    Please confirm if it is Sram XX1 eagle power meter chassis with spindle BB30 (30 mm), conventional Chain Line (non boost)

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    Quote Originally Posted by AAtria View Post
    Please confirm if it is Sram XX1 eagle power meter chassis with spindle BB30 (30 mm), conventional Chain Line (non boost)
    Yes, as in the image below.
    Cannondale scalpel carbon 2 eagle with quarq xx1 boost powermeter-2017-11-26-16.44.25.jpg

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