Page 8 of 8 FirstFirst ... 45678
Results 701 to 794 of 794
  1. #701
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    35
    My Carbon 2 weighs 12.4 kg with Pedals. Would I'm like to get down to 11.5 ☺️.
    I'm. Surrounded by 29 XC bikers all the time...

    Skickat frĺn min SM-G935F via Tapatalk

  2. #702
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sonicreducer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    89
    Wondering on changing the rear disk to 180mm cant find the right adaptor .. what kind of adaptor is that .. did anyone did this change ?? Thanks

    Enviado do meu SHIELD Tablet K1 através de Tapatalk
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  3. #703
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,051
    Cannondale does some stupid mount design that's proprietary. Not sure if it's a great idea but just using a 20mm post mount adapter would "work" but not sure if it would be strong enough. Best bet would be to contact a Cannondale dealer to see if they make a 180mm version adapter for the rear.

    I thought about it myself, but I can already lock the back tire and am considering better brakes so 180 is going to be too much in the rear at that point for me.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  4. #704
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    31
    Quote Originally Posted by sonicreducer View Post
    Wondering on changing the rear disk to 180mm cant find the right adaptor .. what kind of adaptor is that .. did anyone did this change ?? Thanks

    Enviado do meu SHIELD Tablet K1 através de Tapatalk
    Not 100% shure but isn't this the part you need?!

    https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content...06%5D=1;page=2

  5. #705
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,051
    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Grynning View Post
    Not 100% shure but isn't this the part you need?!

    https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content...06%5D=1;page=2
    Nice find, can't find any of that stuff here in the US easily. That's exactly what we all would need to go 180 on the rear!

    Sent from my XT1565 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  6. #706
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sonicreducer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    89
    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Grynning View Post
    Not 100% shure but isn't this the part you need?!

    https://www.bike24.com/1.php?content...06%5D=1;page=2
    Yes , exactly . I ha already found it. But thanks . Going to order it .. just thinking Wich disk xtr or XT .. xtr are very expensive still trying to understand if it's worth it .


    But thank you very much

    Enviado do meu SHIELD Tablet K1 através de Tapatalk
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  7. #707
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,051
    Unless your being a weight weenie or after the "being factor" there is 0 reason to go XTR unless going XTR race which has a different lever feel.

    If you want powerful brakes just get shimano zee. Right in the middle on cost, more power and smoother modulation compared to XT.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  8. #708
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sonicreducer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    89
    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    Unless your being a weight weenie or after the "being factor" there is 0 reason to go XTR unless going XTR race which has a different lever feel.

    If you want powerful brakes just get shimano zee. Right in the middle on cost, more power and smoother modulation compared to XT.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
    Xtr has in the super fin discs for saint and xtr .. the brakes I want to keep the same

    Enviado do meu SHIELD Tablet K1 através de Tapatalk
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  9. #709
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,051
    The only people that really spend money on those rotors are people that ride downhill and such that are exceptionally hard on the brakes. Standard shimano XT ice tech rotors are enough for 99% of riders.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  10. #710
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sonicreducer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    89
    Quote Originally Posted by RAKC Ind View Post
    The only people that really spend money on those rotors are people that ride downhill and such that are exceptionally hard on the brakes. Standard shimano XT ice tech rotors are enough for 99% of riders.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
    Thanks I will go XT then it's also more affordable and .. makes much more sense

    Enviado do meu SHIELD Tablet K1 através de Tapatalk
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  11. #711
    RAKC Industries
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    2,051
    I just ordered slx m7000 and XT ice tech rotors myself. I'm going to give them a shot as I need more power in the front mainly I just realized. Plus bike has me riding more challenging and fun stuff. But difference between slx and XT for performance (excluding rotors, XT ice tech is always better) is the same. Saved $30 which paid for my new anodized orange seat post clamp.

    If i somehow don't feel those are enough I'll put them on my fat bike when I can afford a set of Zees.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk
    Life on a bike doesn't begin till the sun goes down.

    US partner for Ravemen:
    www.rakclighting.com

  12. #712
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    14
    There has been a lot of discussion about pivot bearings on the habit
    heres a shot of my habit's suspension pivot bearing. I have had the bike serviced and the bearings checked, tightened to correct torque and loctite glued. in the 5 months of ownership. Thank god only one failed. now getting all bearings replaced with Enduro bearings by cannondale dealer Name:  IMG_4195.JPG
Views: 2894
Size:  39.7 KB

    go and get yours swapped out for stonger ones before something happens

  13. #713
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    235
    Really should get mine changed. Fun timez.

  14. #714
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    31
    Quote Originally Posted by habithead View Post
    There has been a lot of discussion about pivot bearings on the habit
    heres a shot of my habit's suspension pivot bearing. I have had the bike serviced and the bearings checked, tightened to correct torque and loctite glued. in the 5 months of ownership. Thank god only one failed. now getting all bearings replaced with Enduro bearings by cannondale dealer Name:  IMG_4195.JPG
Views: 2894
Size:  39.7 KB

    go and get yours swapped out for stonger ones before something happens
    Just happened to me too...

  15. #715
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    13
    Hey guys,

    Anyone had issues with a slow air leak from the fork? Last checked it about 2 months ago, went to ride today and was at 50psi in the lefty.

  16. #716
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    34
    I have finally decided to change main pivot bearings on my carbon frame and to my big surprise they were also in size 6802-2RS So it seems that all the suspension bearings are the same. However the kits Cannondale sells, propose different size for the main pivot bearings Bearing Kit PIVOT, HABIT
    Cannondale Habit-img_9934.jpg

    Also very disappointed with Enduro bearings, seems their reliability is no better or worse if compared to the ones Cannondale supplies with the bike!
    Cannondale Habit-img_9937.jpg
    Last edited by Aleksandrik; 07-01-2017 at 10:17 AM.

  17. #717
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    1,513
    Quote Originally Posted by Aleksandrik View Post
    I have finally decided to change main pivot bearings on my carbon frame and to my big surprise they were also in size 6802-2RS So it seems that all the suspension bearings are the same. However the kits Cannondale sells, propose different size for the main pivot bearings Bearing Kit PIVOT, HABIT
    Attachment 1144445

    Also very disappointed with Enduro bearings, seems their reliability is no better or worse if compared to the ones Cannondale supplies with the bike!
    Attachment 1144447
    I replaced the suspension bearings on my bad habit (same bearings as habit) with Enduro bearings. Creaks have not returned.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

  18. #718
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    27
    Hello,
    I am building my Habit Carbon and am looking for some help on routing the Reverb dropper post lines. Can someone please share a detailed picture of how the line routes from the dropper post down the inside of the rame, then where does it come out? And finally how does it route to the handle bars???

    Appreciate your support

  19. #719
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sonicreducer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    89
    Quote Originally Posted by Wenseslao View Post
    Hello,
    I am building my Habit Carbon and am looking for some help on routing the Reverb dropper post lines. Can someone please share a detailed picture of how the line routes from the dropper post down the inside of the rame, then where does it come out? And finally how does it route to the handle bars???

    Appreciate your support
    Mine comes out in the left side

    Enviado do meu SHIELD Tablet K1 através de Tapatalk
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  20. #720
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    262
    Quote Originally Posted by sonicreducer View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Wenseslao View Post
    Hello,
    I am building my Habit Carbon and am looking for some help on routing the Reverb dropper post lines. Can someone please share a detailed picture of how the line routes from the dropper post down the inside of the rame, then where does it come out? And finally how does it route to the handle bars???

    Appreciate your support
    Mine comes out in the left side

    Enviado do meu SHIELD Tablet K1 através de Tapatalk
    I believe some here shared something similar previously in this thread:

    Quote Originally Posted by Aleksandrik View Post
    My dropper post routing keeps destroying the cable entry plug!
    Attachment 1115881

    Anyone with the same issue? Any recommendations on how to avoid this?
    Quote Originally Posted by Nightwish76 View Post

    Haven't read the latest posts, but here is a picture of where my internal cable from the dropper post is.

    Skickat frĺn min SM-G935F via Tapatalk
    I'm planning to get a Habit as well within the next couple of months, so I am curious as well with regards to routing the dropper cable to the left - would the fork bumper damage the entry plug like in the case of Aleksandrik?

  21. #721
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    27
    Good pictures. Thanks. How about from the seat post tube? Does the cable come from the post internally down to the bottom pedal cage? Or how where does the cable turn from seat tube to down tube?
    Thank you

  22. #722
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    34
    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow4eva View Post
    I'm planning to get a Habit as well within the next couple of months, so I am curious as well with regards to routing the dropper cable to the left - would the fork bumper damage the entry plug like in the case of Aleksandrik?
    If bike does not have rear shock lockout cable, I definitely would recommend to use the hole on the right for the dropper routing.

    Not only the plug will be OK, but also dropper cable will have a smoother loop from the frame to handlebar.

    Quote Originally Posted by Wenseslao View Post
    Good pictures. Thanks. How about from the seat post tube? Does the cable come from the post internally down to the bottom pedal cage? Or how where does the cable turn from seat tube to down tube?
    Thank you
    It just goes down! I think it is something like this in my Carbon frame. BB shell also was different from classic Cannondale's PF30, it had some sort of pipe insert which prevents contact between shaft of the cranks and dropper routing.
    Cannondale Habit-img_6335.jpg

    P.S. Actually, now I just ride a rigid seat post with 20 mm offset. Bike is very capable even without a dropper! Also reliability is so much better!
    Cannondale Habit-img_9861.jpg

  23. #723
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    262
    Quote Originally Posted by Wenseslao View Post
    Good pictures. Thanks. How about from the seat post tube? Does the cable come from the post internally down to the bottom pedal cage? Or how where does the cable turn from seat tube to down tube?
    Thank you
    I have the same question myself!

    Quote Originally Posted by Aleksandrik View Post
    If bike does not have rear shock lockout cable, I definitely would recommend to use the hole on the right for the dropper routing.


    Not only the plug will be OK, but also dropper cable will have a smoother loop from the frame to handlebar.




    It just goes down! I think it is something like this in my Carbon frame. BB shell also was different from classic Cannondale's PF30, it had some sort of pipe insert which prevents contact between shaft of the cranks and dropper routing.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_6335.jpg 
Views:	271 
Size:	111.2 KB 
ID:	1146785


    P.S. Actually, now I just ride a rigid seat post with 20 mm offset. Bike is very capable even without a dropper! Also reliability is so much better!
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_9861.jpg 
Views:	108 
Size:	224.9 KB 
ID:	1146780

    I see, thanks for answering!

  24. #724
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    27
    Great information. Thanks a los guys!

  25. #725
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    15

    New Habit for 2018

    New Habit & Bad Habit in the back for 2018
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cannondale Habit-20155833_1424132324364170_2238095125212201567_n.jpg  


  26. #726
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    262
    Quote Originally Posted by Jernest View Post
    New Habit & Bad Habit in the back for 2018
    No lefty? Oh my...

    By the way, I seem to recall some of the guys here mentioning that the habit can fit 2.6" tires? Is this true?

    Also, does anyone follow Stan's "Wide Right" recommendations for each rim in terms of tire width?
    https://www.notubes.com/technology/wide-right

  27. #727
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow4eva View Post
    No lefty? Oh my...

    By the way, I seem to recall some of the guys here mentioning that the habit can fit 2.6" tires? Is this true?

    Also, does anyone follow Stan's "Wide Right" recommendations for each rim in terms of tire width?
    https://www.notubes.com/technology/wide-right
    Probably we will see Habit 1 and 2 with Carbon Lefty. Also I can see the front black habit with Sram GX Eagle.

    Yes I fitted my Habit SE with 2.6 Schwalbe Rocket Ron front and rear on Stan's NoTubes Flow MK3 (29mm inner width) wheelset. There's 4 to 5mm* space between the seat stays and the tire on both sides. * edited (measured this morning)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cannondale Habit-20170520_124814.jpg  

    Cannondale Habit-20170520_124836.jpg  

    Cannondale Habit-20170520_124714.jpg  

    Cannondale Habit-20170520_124724.jpg  

    Cannondale Habit-20170715_091556.jpg  

    Last edited by Jernest; 07-20-2017 at 07:38 AM.

  28. #728
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    262
    Quote Originally Posted by Jernest View Post
    Probably we will see Habit 1 and 2 with Carbon Lefty. Also I can see the front black habit with Sram GX Eagle.

    Yes I fitted my Habit SE with 2.6 Schwalbe Rocket Ron front and rear on Stan's NoTubes Flow MK3 (29mm inner width) wheelset. There's 3 to 4mm space between the seat stays and the tire on both sides.
    Yeah, I had a feeling they would do that for the lefty forks. This would allow potential buyers with smaller budgets get a Habit, albeit without a Lefty.
    Thanks for confirming regarding the 2.6" tires, appreciate it!

  29. #729
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by habithead View Post
    There has been a lot of discussion about pivot bearings on the habit
    heres a shot of my habit's suspension pivot bearing. I have had the bike serviced and the bearings checked, tightened to correct torque and loctite glued. in the 5 months of ownership. Thank god only one failed. now getting all bearings replaced with Enduro bearings by cannondale dealer Name:  IMG_4195.JPG
Views: 2894
Size:  39.7 KB

    go and get yours swapped out for stonger ones before something happens
    I just got a carbon 3 like three weeks ago and I have a bad case of creaking from the rear. The dealer told me it's because I haven't washed and greased the bike. I am new to mountainbiking and don't know much about how to maintain them but surely this shouldn't be happening only after three weeks.

    How do I grease the pivots? Do I have to take it apart to do it? Also, which parts on the bike do I need to grease and how often? How do I know if I need to change the bearings and where can I get these enduro bearings? Because I can't seem to find them anywhere online.

    I would be very thankful for some advice on this issue.

  30. #730
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by Daniel Grynning View Post
    Just happened to me too...
    Hello there. I take it from your name that you're also from Sweden so I would be very thankful if you have some advice and if you can tell me how you went about things. And were you got the enduro bearings.

  31. #731
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by beefa69 View Post
    Hey guys,

    Anyone had issues with a slow air leak from the fork? Last checked it about 2 months ago, went to ride today and was at 50psi in the lefty.
    I seem to have all these issues as well. They told me from the shop that they put 100 psi in it before shipping. After 4 rides when I finally got a pump, there was only 50 psi in it. This was about ten days after I got it. Since then I have been cheking it after every ride and there seems to be a small decrease of about 3-4 psi after a 2 hour ride, and I have taken into account the loss of air when you attach and remove the pump. I'm gonna have to stop doing this and wait for a week at least to be sure it's loosing air.
    Last edited by Sam56; 08-03-2017 at 11:06 AM. Reason: Forgot to add something

  32. #732
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    132
    Take a look at page 11 of the Habit owners manual found on the 'support' section of the cdale website. It has the pivot info you need. Be respectful of the torque specs and be generous with the grease on all of the pivot parts. Enduro bearings can be found on Amazon. More than likely you will need 6pcs of 6802's. If you are uncomfortable doing any of this your LBS should at least work out the noise issues for you since the bike is fairly new. Be certain to clean it up before taking it in to them...courtesy of course!

  33. #733
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    13
    Hey Sam,

    Since I have put a few more rides into the lefty this issue seems to have diminished greatly or resolved itself altogether. It could potentially be something to do with a seal early on and the fork beds in with use... but thats just a wild guess. I've also noticed that with some km's into it the fork feels so much better than when new.

    I found the pressure recommendations on the sticker to be overstated quite a bit. For me at 90kgs ready to ride the recommended pressure was way to stiff and harsh. Knocking 10psi off that has been perfect for me without any bottoming.

    Interested to know if that disappears with some miles into it.

  34. #734
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by Headshok'r View Post
    Take a look at page 11 of the Habit owners manual found on the 'support' section of the cdale website. It has the pivot info you need. Be respectful of the torque specs and be generous with the grease on all of the pivot parts. Enduro bearings can be found on Amazon. More than likely you will need 6pcs of 6802's. If you are uncomfortable doing any of this your LBS should at least work out the noise issues for you since the bike is fairly new. Be certain to clean it up before taking it in to them...courtesy of course!
    Thanks for the info. Unfortunately I don't feel comfortable at all doing this myself and the dealer is not my LBS but a shop about 300 km from me where I found a good deal online. I did have my bike in at my LBS yesterday to convert to tubeless and check where the creaks are coming from, since I thought it was from the handlebars at first. And they said they tightened all the bolts and they were pretty sure it was coming from the rear link pivots. I told them to not take anything apart yet since I hadn't spoken with the dealer yet to see if they can help me. And I also knew about the issues people have had with the bearings on here, so I thought it's best to have them replace those as well at the same time. I think I'm just gonna order the bearings and let my LBS do it since I don't want to deal with having to pack the bike back in the box to shipp it and loose cycling time.

    Is it safe to keep riding the bike like this though until I get these bearings? And can anything be damaged in doing so? My LBS said that as long as all the bolts are tight, it's safe.

    Also someone told me on a different part of the forum that depending on the type of pivots, they shouldn't be lubed externally as it only attracts dirt. Although he wasn't sure if that was the case with the habit. The dealer told me I do need to lube externally and that it is because I haven't done this so far that I am having the creaking. Do they need to be lubed externally on this bike and if so how often?

    And lastly, just to be sure. Are these the bearings I need: https://www.amazon.com/Enduro-6802-2.../dp/B005DTIXEI

  35. #735
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    1,050
    All pivot bearings should be lubed externally before fitting.
    Pivot bushes are not lubed externally

    Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

  36. #736
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    235
    Quote Originally Posted by Sam56 View Post
    the dealer is not my LBS but a shop about 300 km from me where I found a good deal online.
    Welcome to a world of pain!

    If you want this resolved, and you can't / won't do it yourself, you need to take the bike to a competent Cannondale dealer. Competent - there are some that are not. Signs include just selling the road bikes and not having Lefty tooling in the shop.

    If you ask your LBS to do this work, you might get lucky and everything might be OK. But if it's not, at best you'll waste some money getting the job done. At worst they'll mess it up, damage something and then a sh*tstorm will kick off between you, the original shop and your LBS. You don't want to be there.

  37. #737
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by Brad View Post
    All pivot bearings should be lubed externally before fitting.
    Pivot bushes are not lubed externally

    Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
    I don't know exactly how this works but as I undestood it, the dealer was talking about lubing without taking anything apart. That's what I was thinking when I said externally, because I told him that I don't know how to take things apart myself.

  38. #738
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    1,050
    He is just going to pop the seals and regrease the bearings. They need to come out and their outer race that fits into the link needs to be lubed as well

    Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

  39. #739
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    235
    Quote Originally Posted by Brad View Post
    their outer race that fits into the link needs to be lubed as well
    Manual says loctite. This would have been done at the factory.

    My creaky link was cured by cleaning and lubing the links and mounting hardware, didn't touch the bearings. Got about 500 miles on the factory set now with no bearing problems. Dry miles only though.

  40. #740
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by Howards View Post
    Welcome to a world of pain!

    If you want this resolved, and you can't / won't do it yourself, you need to take the bike to a competent Cannondale dealer. Competent - there are some that are not. Signs include just selling the road bikes and not having Lefty tooling in the shop.

    If you ask your LBS to do this work, you might get lucky and everything might be OK. But if it's not, at best you'll waste some money getting the job done. At worst they'll mess it up, damage something and then a sh*tstorm will kick off between you, the original shop and your LBS. You don't want to be there.
    Yeah I understood there could potentially be complications when ordering online, but I didn't expect these kind of issues so soon.

    I do know of a dealer that I heard are competent regarding CD, they have been selling them for a long time. But I didn't think I needed them for repairs other than Lefty service. Is it required to have a mechanic with specific Cannondale knowledge to work on the rear link pivots? My local LBS is also known for having very good mechanics although they don't sell Cannondales. There is also an English guy who works privately, who is regarded one of the best in Stockholm, from what I've heard. I'll try to contact him as well to hear what he has to say about this.

    I wouldn't be totally against sending it back to the dealer, but the problem is they won't even aknowledge that this is an issue. Even though I told him I haven't got many hours on it of mostly XC riding and only in dry conditions. I will have to do what they said first though before I look for help. Just to wash the bike properly and lube the rear link pivots without removing anything.

  41. #741
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    235
    If you do chose to get it done, get it done my a dealer, because that way, should the issue turn out to be a manufacturing defect, you'll have a much easier time returning the bike.

    Not quite sure what cleaning and lubing the pivots will do if you don't remove them

    To fix mine, I followed the procedure in the manual, which is basically re-torqing the main pivots and cleaning + lubing the expanding wedge system in the link and main pivots.

  42. #742
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    32
    Is it safe to still ride like this before for a while before I can get it fixed? Can anything be damaged?

  43. #743
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by Howards View Post
    If you do chose to get it done, get it done my a dealer, because that way, should the issue turn out to be a manufacturing defect, you'll have a much easier time returning the bike.

    Not quite sure what cleaning and lubing the pivots will do if you don't remove them

    To fix mine, I followed the procedure in the manual, which is basically re-torqing the main pivots and cleaning + lubing the expanding wedge system in the link and main pivots.
    Do you mean the dealer that sold it to me specifically or any Cannondale dealer?

    Yeah, I'm not sure either what I will be lubing As I have no idea what I'm doing. But that's what he said to me, as I explained to him that I don't dare removing anything. He said, just clean and lube after every ride. Yeah great, now I'm set

  44. #744
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    235
    Cannondale dealer who works on MTBs. If there's an MTB forum local to you, ask them where the good ones are.

    You can still ride the bike, but check the torques on the pivots, make sure nothing is really silly lose.

  45. #745
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by Howards View Post
    Cannondale dealer who works on MTBs. If there's an MTB forum local to you, ask them where the good ones are.

    You can still ride the bike, but check the torques on the pivots, make sure nothing is really silly lose.
    Ok, I will do that. Thank you all for taking time to help me with this issue. I hope things work out because this bike is so much fun to ride.

  46. #746
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    1,050
    Yes loctite says loctite but you'll never get the bearings out that way.
    Copaslip for aluminium linkage to steel bearing race.
    Carbon assembly compound for carbon linkage.
    That's what I used on the previous scalpel and never had creaking issues.


    Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

  47. #747
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    14
    so sexy sir

  48. #748
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    32
    I'm about to order the bearings. Just want to make sure these are the correct ones: https://www.amazon.com/Enduro-6802-2.../dp/B005DTIXEI

    And it's 6 of them, right?

  49. #749
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    235
    If you are gonna get the shop to do the work, get the shop to buy them in. They'll like you more, and that matters, and they won't buy the wrong thing

  50. #750
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sonicreducer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    89
    Had the same issue .. first time they said it was pedals related.. new pedals in.. issue remains .. new complaint to dealer.
    Took everything apart heavy greased .. done no more issue 3 months in

    Enviado do meu SHIELD Tablet K1 através de Tapatalk
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  51. #751
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    262
    Quote Originally Posted by Aleksandrik View Post
    If bike does not have rear shock lockout cable, I definitely would recommend to use the hole on the right for the dropper routing.
    Hello again, Aleksandrik. I only noticed now that yours is a Habit Carbon 1 2016 (correct me if I am mistaken).
    I am looking at the Carbon 3 2016 model as my local dealer has a demo set to let go at a discounted price (which fits my budget).

    From what I can tell, the Carbon 3 does not seem to have the IR hole on the downtube, but on the top tube, rather. I could be wrong as I am recalling from memory and pictures online.

    If I am right, would it be okay to assume that if I were to have a dropper post installed, I should route it direct to the top tube from the seat tube rather than to the down tube like what you did?

  52. #752
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by Howards View Post
    If you are gonna get the shop to do the work, get the shop to buy them in. They'll like you more, and that matters, and they won't buy the wrong thing
    I just washed the bike yesterday and when I tried it later after letting it dry in the sun, there was no creaking at all. Although I only went on a 30 min ride to check if it's still there. I'm gonna go on a 2 hour ride today or tomorrow to see if it's possible that it could really be gone.

    If so, why do you guys think simply washing it helped? Since that doesn't have anything to do with how the bearings work inside. I didn't do any greasing.

    I also read some advice to put ptfe spray on the suspension pivots after washing since it drives dirt out, but I haven't tried it yet. Is this true? Could it not push it into the bearings as well?

    I actually decided to contact Cannondale support about this issue before I decide what to do next. I did so this weekend and got an answer yesterday. They confirmed that this definitely shouldn't be happening at this point and to tell the dealer to take it in, to check.
    Last edited by Sam56; 08-08-2017 at 12:47 AM. Reason: Have to add something.

  53. #753
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by sonicreducer View Post
    Had the same issue .. first time they said it was pedals related.. new pedals in.. issue remains .. new complaint to dealer.
    Took everything apart heavy greased .. done no more issue 3 months in

    Enviado do meu SHIELD Tablet K1 através de Tapatalk
    Yeah, it's strange. Does this mean they haven't greased properly from the factory? Mine is the 2017 year model on sale, so it's probably been laying around for a year, maybe that has something to do with it.

  54. #754
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sonicreducer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    89
    Quote Originally Posted by Sam56 View Post
    Yeah, it's strange. Does this mean they haven't greased properly from the factory? Mine is the 2017 year model on sale, so it's probably been laying around for a year, maybe that has something to do with it.
    Yup , exactly.
    The guy from the shop said they had instructions to delay scalpel delivery to customer, so they can do the regrease before delivery.
    On habbit they had no notice but can happend they came low on grease from factory.

    Enviado do meu SHIELD Tablet K1 através de Tapatalk
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  55. #755
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    34
    Quote Originally Posted by Sam56 View Post
    I'm about to order the bearings. Just want to make sure these are the correct ones: https://www.amazon.com/Enduro-6802-2.../dp/B005DTIXEI

    And it's 6 of them, right?
    I personally do not see a point on getting exactly Enduro bearings. Any 6802-2RS should be just fine! Because no matter what you put there, it will die sooner or later!

    Both Scalpel-Si and Habit have ridiculously exposed bearings, they are not protested from the elements at all. Water, sand, dust etc, can easily penetrate inside.

    Cannondale Habit-dsc_5689.jpg

    Cannondale Habit-p5pb13635997.jpg

    Main pivot chainstay attachment has huge gap on the left side.

    Cannondale Habit-pc-2016_cannondale_mtn_bad-habit-4.jpg

    So instead of expensive Enduro bearings just spend money on this kit Cannondale Bearing Pivot Press + Removal Tool - KP169/

    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow4eva View Post
    If I am right, would it be okay to assume that if I were to have a dropper post installed, I should route it direct to the top tube from the seat tube rather than to the down tube like what you did?
    From top tube (right side hole) to bottom tube to bottom bracket to seat tube!

  56. #756
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    262
    Quote Originally Posted by Aleksandrik View Post
    From top tube (right side hole) to bottom tube to bottom bracket to seat tube!
    My apologies if my description was lacking. I have attached a picture I found on google which shows a small hole on the top tube, which I suspect to be for internal routing. Unfortunately, this picture is of low resolution and is not that clear, so I am unable to confirm my suspicion.
    That said, however, assuming that is what I think it is, would you still advise me to route the dropper cable from the top tube, to down tube, and then to BB to get to at seat tube?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cannondale Habit-dsc_5687.jpg  


  57. #757
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    262
    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow4eva View Post
    My apologies if my description was lacking. I have attached a picture I found on google which shows a small hole on the top tube, which I suspect to be for internal routing. Unfortunately, this picture is of low resolution and is not that clear, so I am unable to confirm my suspicion.
    That said, however, assuming that is what I think it is, would you still advise me to route the dropper cable from the top tube, to down tube, and then to BB to get to at seat tube?
    Oh silly me. I just double checked with an image of a Carbon 1, it is indeed the IR hole for the dropper.

  58. #758
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    34
    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow4eva View Post
    My apologies if my description was lacking. I have attached a picture I found on google which shows a small hole on the top tube, which I suspect to be for internal routing. Unfortunately, this picture is of low resolution and is not that clear, so I am unable to confirm my suspicion.
    That said, however, assuming that is what I think it is, would you still advise me to route the dropper cable from the top tube, to down tube, and then to BB to get to at seat tube?
    Sorry, when wrote my answer I totally forgot about different frame sizes.

    On smaller size the top tube and bottom are very close together...
    Cannondale Habit-cannondale-habit.jpg

    So that is why I think the right hole for the dropper is more usable in this case. Because on the left side is lefty with a rubber bumper and it will constantly smack against the cable if it is routed there and destry the plug. This picture is good illustration for that.

    Cannondale Habit-maxresdefault.jpg

    However if you frame is big and top and bottom tubes are not together than probably the left hole is your only option!

  59. #759
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    262
    Quote Originally Posted by Aleksandrik View Post
    Sorry, when wrote my answer I totally forgot about different frame sizes.

    On smaller size the top tube and bottom are very close together...
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	cannondale-habit.jpg 
Views:	467 
Size:	125.8 KB 
ID:	1151123

    So that is why I think the right hole for the dropper is more usable in this case. Because on the left side is lefty with a rubber bumper and it will constantly smack against the cable if it is routed there and destry the plug. This picture is good illustration for that.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	maxresdefault.jpg 
Views:	110 
Size:	100.9 KB 
ID:	1151124

    However if you frame is big and top and bottom tubes are not together than probably the left hole is your only option!
    Thanks for the insight! The Habit 3 that I have my eyes on is size M - do you know if the top and down tubes are closer together?

  60. #760
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by Aleksandrik View Post
    I personally do not see a point on getting exactly Enduro bearings. Any 6802-2RS should be just fine! Because no matter what you put there, it will die sooner or later!

    Both Scalpel-Si and Habit have ridiculously exposed bearings, they are not protested from the elements at all. Water, sand, dust etc, can easily penetrate inside.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC_5689.jpg 
Views:	61 
Size:	69.6 KB 
ID:	1151113

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	p5pb13635997.jpg 
Views:	70 
Size:	240.8 KB 
ID:	1151114

    Main pivot chainstay attachment has huge gap on the left side.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	PC-2016_Cannondale_MTN_Bad-Habit-4.jpg 
Views:	221 
Size:	95.4 KB 
ID:	1151115

    So instead of expensive Enduro bearings just spend money on this kit Cannondale Bearing Pivot Press + Removal Tool - KP169/


    From top tube (right side hole) to bottom tube to bottom bracket to seat tube!
    I just went on a longer ride yesterday and thankfully the sound seems to have stopped, for some reason. What I did was wash the bike and properly cleaned the areas you point to in the picture with a brush(without taking anything apart or greasing). There was a lot of grease around those areas, so I think that's what attracted a bunch of dirt in between there. But I still don't get it, because if dirt had gotten inside the bearings then just cleaning externally shouldn't made a difference. And you are right, those areas do seem very exposed.

    About the bearings, I just went on what a lot of people where writing in the thread. If this keeps up then I won't have to do anything, thank god. Because I don't want to loose any riding time.

  61. #761
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by sonicreducer View Post
    Yup , exactly.
    The guy from the shop said they had instructions to delay scalpel delivery to customer, so they can do the regrease before delivery.
    On habbit they had no notice but can happend they came low on grease from factory.

    Enviado do meu SHIELD Tablet K1 através de Tapatalk
    I totally forgot about this, but when I first unpacked the bike, the whole frame was almost completely covered in grease. The areas around the BB, headset and rear link pivots. So maybe they did grease it before sending it, but I did get it pretty fast so there was no delay. This was the first time I have ever bought a new bike, is this normal?

    I did notice from the start that a bunch of sand and dirt easilly got stuck in these areas. I got rid of most of the grease when I washed it couple of days ago. Was I wrong to do that? It just seemed excessive to me.

  62. #762
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sonicreducer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    89
    Quote Originally Posted by Sam56 View Post
    I totally forgot about this, but when I first unpacked the bike, the whole frame was almost completely covered in grease. The areas around the BB, headset and rear link pivots. So maybe they did grease it before sending it, but I did get it pretty fast so there was no delay. This was the first time I have ever bought a new bike, is this normal?

    I did notice from the start that a bunch of sand and dirt easilly got stuck in these areas. I got rid of most of the grease when I washed it couple of days ago. Was I wrong to do that? It just seemed excessive to me.
    Well, after they did the republic. You could notice the little excess on the pivots .. I left it be and even when washing I didn't remove the excess , eventually faded out and .. it's working perfectly no noisy creacking... So leave the excess it kinda makes a protective cover I guess

    Enviado do meu SHIELD Tablet K1 através de Tapatalk
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  63. #763
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    28

    2017 Habit SE

    Hey guys, I'm trying to find some relatively cheap ways to get the weight down on my 2017 Habit SE, size medium. Out of the box with Shimano XT SPD pedals it was 29 lbs and some change. I thought that was pretty dang heavy but I'm coming off a old 26er hardtail that I got down to ~23 lbs. anyway I'm not super picky but in the end I'd like this rig to be 27-27.5 lbs.

    I changed the bar and stem (Easton Haven 35 stem and matching carbon bar, 740mm trimmed) to start, along with Ti bolts and Wolf Tooth top cap. Then I also ended up swapping the solid crank arms for the hollowgram ones that come on the more expensive Habits (BTW saved 1/4 lb in crank arms if anyone is curious). Now the bike weighs right at 29 lbs. There is a guy that works in the shop that bought the same bike in the same size and said his is 28 something lbs. He swapped his brakes to XT but otherwise the bike is stock. I don't know what pedals he is using or maybe he even weighed it without pedals? Anyway, not a big deal, I just wanna lighten this puppy up a bit because from previous experience I know much much difference the weight can make in the ride.

    Anyway, next I'm thinking of swapping out the rotors and adaptors to 160mm SRAM Centerline X with the alloy spider. I'm 5'7" and weigh about 155 so I don't see why I need 180mm front and rear. If I throw in some fancy Ti rotor bolts I could save roughly 100g, as I researched the weights on SRAM's website.

    Also I am thinking of swapping the front and rear thru-axles to bolt on: front to Maxle Stealth as opposed to current Maxle Ultimate, and rear to Carbon-Ti Maxle. This could also save about 90g.

    Then there are the wheels. Now honestly I don't plan on buying a new wheel set anytime soon but just for discussion I'll mention them. I know all these other Habits have like i23's and mine has i29 with Magic Mary and Nobby Nic Snakeskins. Also I used Gorilla tape trimmed to width for sealant tape, lol. Definitely weight to be saved here. I'm thinking when I do upgrade wheels I'll go with 25-27 internal as I like the whole wide rim thing but don't wanna go too heavy. Maybe them sweet Santa Cruz Reserve wheels?

    I've noticed everyone's Habit seems to weigh less than mine, even like the Carbon 3 which is below mine in price and spec? Of course I'm nowhere near the Carbon 1 weight which everyone in this topic seems to have, lol. It's gotta be in the pedals and wheels/tires.

    Any suggestions on all of this? Thanks in advance!

    P.S. sorry for the long post and I don't know why that picture is sideways!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cannondale Habit-img_7588.jpg  


  64. #764
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    13
    FeedTheWolf... what about your seat and seat post and cassette?
    If you are really bored, create a spreadsheet and weight every component on your bike, then go looking for bits you can replace, take the published weight and cost and work out if it will be worth it or not.

  65. #765
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    34
    Quote Originally Posted by FeedTheWolf View Post
    Any suggestions on all of this? Thanks in advance!
    If you would like to achieve weight of Habit Carbon 1, then the only option is to buy a Habit Carbon 1! Otherwise it is mission impossible!

    Habit Carbon 1 has rear triangle made from Carbon, Carbon lefty, Hollowgram cranks and Carbon wheelset, this along is already huge weight reduction. And by huge, I mean at least 3 pounds!
    Last edited by Aleksandrik; 08-30-2017 at 09:05 AM.

  66. #766
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    235
    The SE trades weight for burliness - get it too light and it won't feel like the kinda gnarly trail bike it's supposed to be.

    On my 2016 the tyres that came with the bike are the Performance line which are kinda weighty. I'm busy trying to kill them so can get a better set, maybe Rocket Ron or Rock Razor rear Nobby Nic front.

    I thought about swapping the crank arms for the SiSL arms but the forged Si crank is great for this kinda of bike I reckon.

    Not sure what I'm trying to say really, other than just ride the crap out of it and don't worry about the weight.

  67. #767
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    15
    Hi FeedtheWolf, the Habit SE from 2017 had some changes that make it more heavier than 2016.

    1- Alloy 2.0 Lefty PBR 130mm. I don't know exactly the difference in weight compare to the Pike but maybe some 100 grams right there.

    2- WTB frequency i23 (2016) to the i29 (2017) more weight there.

    3-Seatpost from KS LEV Integra dropper to Fox Transfer dropper maybe some grams there too.

    4- SRAM cassette from XG-1180 (314grs) to XG-1150 (393grs)

    My advice is to go with a lighter Alloy wheelset, maybe carbon if money is not an issue. I replaced my wheelset with Stan's FLOW MK3 29mm inner width, 2.6 Schwalbe Rocket Ron front and rear, bottle cage, Kore Mega 35mm rise handlebar and SLX Shimano Brakes and the total weight of the bike went from 28.28lbs to 27.67lbs. I chose Stan's Flow MK3 because I wanted to run 2.6 tires with wider rims and cost of course. You can build a set with the Arch and 2.35/2.4 tires for less weight.

    Forgot to mention Crank Brothers Candy 1 pedals.

  68. #768
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1,363
    I did the spreadsheet when I built up my carbon 3 - I'm not a complete weight weenie, but I do like not being surprised at the overall weight. My previous XC bike was in the 23lb range, and I was hoping to keep the Habit under 26 while trading some of the weight for extra travel and fun.

    Lot of the weight in my bike is in the wheelset - I could lose almost a pound there while still building new wheels up on the new Arch or Blunt SS rims to keep the width. Like you, I really like the wider rim and tire combos.

    You're also carrying a good bit of weight in your dropper post setup - I mean, a RS Reverb Stealth weighs close to 600g by itself. A carbon post will run in the ~200g range. I don't need a dropper for the majority of riding I do, so I usually just run a carbon FSA. But I do have a dropper for when I take a trip somewhere that I would want it.

  69. #769
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    28
    Quote Originally Posted by beefa69 View Post
    FeedTheWolf... what about your seat and seat post and cassette?
    If you are really bored, create a spreadsheet and weight every component on your bike, then go looking for bits you can replace, take the published weight and cost and work out if it will be worth it or not.
    Cassette I could sure save some weight on but I'm not ready to drop $300-400 on a significantly lighter one at the moment! Good advice though. And I'm definitely not that bored to weigh everything on my bike!

    Quote Originally Posted by Aleksandrik View Post
    If you would like to achieve weight of Habit Carbon 1, then the only option is to buy a Habit Carbon 1! Otherwise it is mission impossible!

    Habit Carbon 1 has rear triangle made from Carbon, Carbon lefty, Hollowgram cranks and Carbon wheelset, this along is already huge weight reduction. And by huge, I mean at least 3 pounds!
    I meant to say that I don't expect to achieve the weight of the Habit Carbon 1, also as stated I have the Hollogram cranks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Howards View Post
    The SE trades weight for burliness - get it too light and it won't feel like the kinda gnarly trail bike it's supposed to be.

    On my 2016 the tyres that came with the bike are the Performance line which are kinda weighty. I'm busy trying to kill them so can get a better set, maybe Rocket Ron or Rock Razor rear Nobby Nic front.

    I thought about swapping the crank arms for the SiSL arms but the forged Si crank is great for this kinda of bike I reckon.

    Not sure what I'm trying to say really, other than just ride the crap out of it and don't worry about the weight.
    I get ya there, I'm just used to my old mountain goat hardtail and want to make a better climber. Again I'm not really expecting to make it a race machine or too light or anything, just a lighter burly trail machine, which can surely be done without sacrificing durability, methinks!

    I don't think you'd be sacrificing any durability if you got the Hollogram crank arms over the Si ones.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jernest View Post
    Hi FeedtheWolf, the Habit SE from 2017 had some changes that make it more heavier than 2016.

    1- Alloy 2.0 Lefty PBR 130mm. I don't know exactly the difference in weight compare to the Pike but maybe some 100 grams right there.

    2- WTB frequency i23 (2016) to the i29 (2017) more weight there.

    3-Seatpost from KS LEV Integra dropper to Fox Transfer dropper maybe some grams there too.

    4- SRAM cassette from XG-1180 (314grs) to XG-1150 (393grs)

    My advice is to go with a lighter Alloy wheelset, maybe carbon if money is not an issue. I replaced my wheelset with Stan's FLOW MK3 29mm inner width, 2.6 Schwalbe Rocket Ron front and rear, bottle cage, Kore Mega 35mm rise handlebar and SLX Shimano Brakes and the total weight of the bike went from 28.28lbs to 27.67lbs. I chose Stan's Flow MK3 because I wanted to run 2.6 tires with wider rims and cost of course. You can build a set with the Arch and 2.35/2.4 tires for less weight.

    Forgot to mention Crank Brothers Candy 1 pedals.
    I'd definitely like to get a lighter wheelset eventually as I mentioned but right now don't have the money for it. I'm thinking maybe the Santa Cruz Reserve wheelset with 27mm inner width but they are a minimum of like $1400, or maybe like Industry Nine Trail-S inner width 24.5 @ about 1550 grams.

    Might also consider lighter pedals as I have the XT Trail pedals @ about 400 grams. I could get Egg Beaters @ about 280-290 grams but I'm hesitant to make the switch because I've always used SPDs and love them.

    Eventually I want some lighter brakes too (XT ftw), aside from the rotors and hardware which I already plan on swapping for lighter.

    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    I did the spreadsheet when I built up my carbon 3 - I'm not a complete weight weenie, but I do like not being surprised at the overall weight. My previous XC bike was in the 23lb range, and I was hoping to keep the Habit under 26 while trading some of the weight for extra travel and fun.

    Lot of the weight in my bike is in the wheelset - I could lose almost a pound there while still building new wheels up on the new Arch or Blunt SS rims to keep the width. Like you, I really like the wider rim and tire combos.

    You're also carrying a good bit of weight in your dropper post setup - I mean, a RS Reverb Stealth weighs close to 600g by itself. A carbon post will run in the ~200g range. I don't need a dropper for the majority of riding I do, so I usually just run a carbon FSA. But I do have a dropper for when I take a trip somewhere that I would want it.
    I have thought about replacing the Fox Transfer dropper post for a rigid maybe Thomson Masterpiece or carbon but I don't think I'm ready to get rid of the dropper yet. Never had one until now and I've been experimenting with it a bit. Still want the trail bike attitude but maybe just a bit lighter, lol.

  70. #770
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    31
    Don't think the habit was the right choice for you man...

  71. #771
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    28
    Quote Originally Posted by BradOlsen84 View Post
    Don't think the habit was the right choice for you man...
    Nah mang. The Habit is a great bike with a light chassis and getting mine down to 27.5 pounds or lighter is definitely not out of the question, especially with a lighter wheelset. And I get that you're implying that the weight is part of this type of bike, but I disagree. It can be a lighter yet just as burly trail bike.

  72. #772
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 2clue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    1,375
    New wheelset and cassette will have you dropping a few pounds. For about $700-900 you can get some of those Chinese carbon wheelsets. Also don't think too much about weight, just ride it and enjoy it. I don't even know my bikes build weight....In fact most of the mods i did added weight to it for increase fun factors.

  73. #773
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    34
    Quote Originally Posted by FeedTheWolf View Post
    Nah mang. The Habit is a great bike with a light chassis and getting mine down to 27.5 pounds or lighter is definitely not out of the question, especially with a lighter wheelset. And I get that you're implying that the weight is part of this type of bike, but I disagree. It can be a lighter yet just as burly trail bike.
    Please don't get me wrong, but Habit was never intended to be a burly trail bike. It's frame is just too flexy for real hard riding with big jumps. Habit is just more plush and comfortable version of Cannondale Scalpel from my point of view. And of course, you trade some efficiency as well if compared to Scalpel!

    It is also classified as ASTM CONDITION 3, which is basically Cross-Country riding.

    Jekyll and Trigger on the other hand are classified as ASTM CONDITION 4 which can be considered a burly trail bike aka All-Mountain! They also have much beefier frame.

    Here is better explanation of the classifications https://alutech-cycles.com/Classific...-Bicycle-Usage

  74. #774
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 2clue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    1,375
    Quote Originally Posted by Aleksandrik View Post
    Please don't get me wrong, but Habit was never intended to be a burly trail bike. It's frame is just too flexy for real hard riding with big jumps...
    That right there is gold, the bike can be ridden hard and the geo can be modify to tackle aggressive lines. However it is one flexy noodle in the rear and that will never disappear.

  75. #775
    mtbr member
    Reputation: The_Wanderer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    7
    Hi!
    I'm about to build a new set of wheels for my Habit 2, right now i run 2.6 tires and i like them a lot but the rim is too narrow so i think i go for some 32mm rims, i'm looking at the American Classic Wide Lightning and Stans Flow MK3, what do you guys think? I'm not looking for anything ultralight or super expensive, just a pair of good rims.

  76. #776
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    262
    Quote Originally Posted by The_Wanderer View Post
    Hi!
    I'm about to build a new set of wheels for my Habit 2, right now i run 2.6 tires and i like them a lot but the rim is too narrow so i think i go for some 32mm rims, i'm looking at the American Classic Wide Lightning and Stans Flow MK3, what do you guys think? I'm not looking for anything ultralight or super expensive, just a pair of good rims.
    Stan's Flow MK3 sounds good - from what some of the others in here have tested with, you could run 2.6 tires on those rims if you want a feel of the new plus tire standard!

    On a side note - does anyone know the recommended tire widths for the stock ZTR Rapid that came on the 2016 models?

  77. #777
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    15
    Quote Originally Posted by The_Wanderer View Post
    Hi!
    I'm about to build a new set of wheels for my Habit 2, right now i run 2.6 tires and i like them a lot but the rim is too narrow so i think i go for some 32mm rims, i'm looking at the American Classic Wide Lightning and Stans Flow MK3, what do you guys think? I'm not looking for anything ultralight or super expensive, just a pair of good rims.
    Hi, I did post some pictures of the clearance of the 2.6 Schwalbe RR on Stans Flow MK3 (29mm inner width). For the rear it is close enough for the tire and the seat stays, that on the first ride I got some little nicks from small rocks or branch that got stock in the tire, maybe some flex. I did put on both seat stay some clear Lizard Skins adhesive frame protectors. IMHO with a wider rim (32mm inner width) the 2.6 tire might look better but certainly will be closer to the seat stay causing tire rub from flexing.

    For the front with the Lefty fork you'll get more clearance to run 2.8/3.0 tires with wider rims than the Flows. Also the Habit SE came with Lefty 60 front hub that is wider too.

  78. #778
    o27
    o27 is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Posts
    88
    I have the AC Wide Lightning w. 29mm inner. Thinking about trying the new Noby Nic 2.8" with Addix Compound in the front, should be no issue with Lefty, as it seem´s they run close to a true 2.8".

    Was going with Rocket Ron 2.6" in the rear, but would like to go to 2.8" - will this be too wide for the rear on the Habit Carbon 2?

  79. #779
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    31
    My 2.6 Ron in a 24mm internal was duable. I would never want to go bigger.

  80. #780
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    262

    New question here. Front Derailleur

    Hi all, would like some advice on the front derailleur. I have a 2016 Habit Carbon 3 - according to the manual, the front mech is S3 direct mount.
    I managed to read up some info on bike radar that explained that S3 is SRAM's standard of direct mount, while the Shimano equivalent is the Direct Mount (E2) version.

    That said, I found the following front mechs on Chain Reaction Cycles:
    Shimano XT M786 Direct Mount 2x10 Front Mech
    Shimano XT M785 E2-Type 2x10 Front Mech

    My guess is that the second option, the "Shimano XT M785 E2-Type 2x10 Front Mech" is the right choice. However, I do not have the money to buy another front derailleur if I make the wrong purchase. Therefore I require some confirmation first.
    Can someone please enlighten me on which front mech is the right one for my bike please?

    Many thanks and appreciation for the help!

  81. #781
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    15
    Shimano XT M785 E2-Type 2x10 Front Mech

    Is the correct one.

    The habit carbon 3 comes with the shimano deore m618 front derailleur from factory right? Why would you want to change it?

  82. #782
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    262
    Quote Originally Posted by Jernest View Post
    Shimano XT M785 E2-Type 2x10 Front Mech

    Is the correct one.

    The habit carbon 3 comes with the shimano deore m618 front derailleur from factory right? Why would you want to change it?
    Thanks Jernest! I'm replacing the front derailleur as I managed to get my hands on a pair of xt shifters on the cheap from a buddy of mine, and would like to have a complete groupset.

  83. #783
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    31
    The shifter makes the difference. Your new xt derailleur will do nothing. I would recommend save the cash.

  84. #784
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    262
    Quote Originally Posted by BradOlsen84 View Post
    The shifter makes the difference. Your new xt derailleur will do nothing. I would recommend save the cash.
    Thanks for the advice Brad, but I'm a sucker for aesthetics . The XT 10spd stuff is relatively affordable nowadays thanks to the 11spd, so my wallet can still handle the load. I wouldn't say the same if I were to switch to SRAM though.

  85. #785
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    262
    Quote Originally Posted by FeedTheWolf View Post
    I changed the bar and stem (Easton Haven 35 stem and matching carbon bar, 740mm trimmed) to start, along with Ti bolts and Wolf Tooth top cap.
    Hi FeedTheWolf, since you mentioned changing to a 35mm clamp stem, am I right to assume that you changed the steerer to fit normal 1 1/8" stem?

    Quote Originally Posted by FeedTheWolf View Post
    Also I am thinking of swapping the front and rear thru-axles to bolt on: front to Maxle Stealth as opposed to current Maxle Ultimate, and rear to Carbon-Ti Maxle. This could also save about 90g.
    I like this idea too, bolt on seems safer that with the lever, imho.

    Quote Originally Posted by FeedTheWolf View Post
    Then there are the wheels. Now honestly I don't plan on buying a new wheel set anytime soon but just for discussion I'll mention them. I know all these other Habits have like i23's and mine has i29 with Magic Mary and Nobby Nic Snakeskins. Also I used Gorilla tape trimmed to width for sealant tape, lol. Definitely weight to be saved here. I'm thinking when I do upgrade wheels I'll go with 25-27 internal as I like the whole wide rim thing but don't wanna go too heavy. Maybe them sweet Santa Cruz Reserve wheels?
    Perhaps you can consider carbon? Light Bicycles is decent. Or if you really want to shave the weight off, but are reluctant to go carbon, perhaps you can consider Load Components?

    Quote Originally Posted by FeedTheWolf View Post
    I've noticed everyone's Habit seems to weigh less than mine, even like the Carbon 3 which is below mine in price and spec? Of course I'm nowhere near the Carbon 1 weight which everyone in this topic seems to have, lol. It's gotta be in the pedals and wheels/tires.
    I am using a Carbon 3 myself, and it does weigh slightly lighter than yours even with the lower specs. I guess that's because my frame is a medium size?

  86. #786
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    28
    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow4eva View Post
    Hi FeedTheWolf, since you mentioned changing to a 35mm clamp stem, am I right to assume that you changed the steerer to fit normal 1 1/8" stem?


    I like this idea too, bolt on seems safer that with the lever, imho.


    Perhaps you can consider carbon? Light Bicycles is decent. Or if you really want to shave the weight off, but are reluctant to go carbon, perhaps you can consider Load Components?


    I am using a Carbon 3 myself, and it does weigh slightly lighter than yours even with the lower specs. I guess that's because my frame is a medium size?
    The 35mm stems fit a 35mm handlebar and 1 1/8" steerer tube.

    Not sure about carbon wheels. They would have to be good quality but then they'd be more money than I wanna spend on wheels. I think some nice alloy rims can be close in weight to carbon.

    I have a size medium frame also. A lot of the weight must be in the wheels and tires?

  87. #787
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    262

    Cannondale Habit

    Quote Originally Posted by FeedTheWolf View Post
    The 35mm stems fit a 35mm handlebar and 1 1/8" steerer tube.
    Yes, I am aware that it's a normal stem. My assumption here is that you changed the steerer of the fork to accommodate non-1.5" stems. I forgot that your habit se is the 2017 model, which uses a pike if I'm not mistaken?

    Quote Originally Posted by FeedTheWolf View Post
    TNot sure about carbon wheels. They would have to be good quality but then they'd be more money than I wanna spend on wheels. I think some nice alloy rims can be close in weight to carbon.
    Light-Bicycle rims are rather solid, many riders worldwide can attest to it. But of course, if your budget is an issue, there's always alloy rims that are able to match the weight of carbon rims available as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by FeedTheWolf View Post
    TI have a size medium frame also. A lot of the weight must be in the wheels and tires?
    If you're on a non-lefty fork, you're dealing with a slightly heavier fork overall as well. If memory serves me right, even after factoring everything in, a lefty fork is still slightly lighter than a single crown fork.
    Of course, there is a slight difference in weight as well due to the wheels and tires too, but I believe it can't be more than 300g heavier.

  88. #788
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    28
    [QUOTE=Shadow4eva;13333284]Yes, I am aware that it's a normal stem. My assumption here is that you changed the steerer of the fork to accommodate non-1.5" stems. I forgot that your habit se is the 2017 model, which uses a pike if I'm not mistaken?

    Ah ok my mistake there. My 2017 Habit SE does come with a Pike.

  89. #789
    mtbr member
    Reputation: 2clue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    1,375
    Quote Originally Posted by Shadow4eva View Post
    Hi FeedTheWolf, since you mentioned changing to a 35mm clamp stem, am I right to assume that you changed the steerer to fit normal 1 1/8" stem?
    1.5" steerer was pretty common back in 2010 for DH/AM bikes. There's still some stems floating around from back then. Only downside is that they were mostly designed for 31.8 bars and not 35. (not really an issue for me as I've seized the opportunity to buy a bunch of cheap 31.8 carbon bars)

  90. #790
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    3
    Hi all,
    New Habit owner and loving the bike. Thanks for this thread, as my first maintenance item was to lube the pivots, which quickly solved my creaking problem.

    I'm curious about the rear shock. Mine came with the Monarch RT, but I'm interested in upgrading to something that allows remote lockout. at this time, the Rock Shox Full Sprint lever works with a lefty 2.0 and monarch XX rear. Just curious if anyone is running the XX rear with success, or can recommend another dual lockout setup for the Habit.

    Thanks

  91. #791
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sonicreducer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    89
    Quote Originally Posted by HabitForming View Post
    Hi all,
    New Habit owner and loving the bike. Thanks for this thread, as my first maintenance item was to lube the pivots, which quickly solved my creaking problem.

    I'm curious about the rear shock. Mine came with the Monarch RT, but I'm interested in upgrading to something that allows remote lockout. at this time, the Rock Shox Full Sprint lever works with a lefty 2.0 and monarch XX rear. Just curious if anyone is running the XX rear with success, or can recommend another dual lockout setup for the Habit.

    Thanks
    Hi, I'm running the dual xx lockout with the monarch xx, no issues.
    But to be honest the rear lockout makes some difference I can feel it but the front ... Can't feel that much.
    Also if I know right you would need to exchange the remote that comes with the xx monarch to the dual remote to use with the lefty and the monarch , maybe can be tricky and messy.

    I do love the feeling of the extra volume can on the xx

    Enviado do meu SHIELD Tablet K1 através de Tapatalk
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  92. #792
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sonicreducer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    89
    Clean and lubed , and tubeless ...
    Just made some small maintenance on the beast .
    Habit 2 now with 2.35 tires front and rear (schwable fan) with tubeless conversion .
    180mm disk on the rear .. 160mm I was getting too much brake fade

    Loving this bike

    Enviado do meu SHIELD Tablet K1 através de Tapatalk
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  93. #793
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    3
    Quote Originally Posted by sonicreducer View Post
    Hi, I'm running the dual xx lockout with the monarch xx, no issues.
    But to be honest the rear lockout makes some difference I can feel it but the front ... Can't feel that much.
    Also if I know right you would need to exchange the remote that comes with the xx monarch to the dual remote to use with the lefty and the monarch , maybe can be tricky and messy.

    I do love the feeling of the extra volume can on the xx

    Enviado do meu SHIELD Tablet K1 através de Tapatalk
    Nice. Glad to hear the monarch XX is a good fit with the Habit.
    You are correct about changing the lever to the Full Sprint, so one lever controls front and rear.

  94. #794
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    3
    Wanted to share my experience with the Habit.
    I got a good deal on a Habit 4 (alloy) and rode a couple of times. Instantly fell in love with the smooth ride and playfulness, but wasn't excited about the weight, especially after selling my Flash hardtail at 20.9 lbs. Last week I found a good deal on a Habit carbon frame, to which I transferred all my part. The weight is noticeably lighter, but the big difference I found was the climbing. The carbon frame climbs/pedals faster and with less effort which makes riding more enjoyable. With Thomson bars and seatpost, it's as light as I need it to be. I'm sure I see some carbon rims in its future.


    So now I have a Small Habit alloy frame with three rides for sale.

Page 8 of 8 FirstFirst ... 45678

Similar Threads

  1. How to Build a Bike Habit
    By mtbxplorer in forum Commuting
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 07-27-2013, 07:33 AM
  2. How are you supporting your habit
    By tplace in forum Arizona
    Replies: 106
    Last Post: 07-18-2011, 05:11 PM
  3. OT: Ideas to nix my 1-a-day cigarette smoking habit.
    By Buzkil in forum California - Norcal
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 07-15-2011, 09:24 AM
  4. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 04-20-2011, 08:31 AM

Members who have read this thread: 159

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •