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  1. #1
    BHB
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    Oct 2013
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    Bought new wheelset, need info on skewers

    Need some help!
    I have a Cannondale flash F3 Lefty, I bought a set of DT Swiss XCR 1.7 tubeless that came off a Cannondale Scalpel. Front hub went on nicely! When installing the rear I realized the hollow thru axle for the DT Swiss is slightly larger than the hollow thru axle of the stock cannondale hub. My current skewer measures 5 mm in thickness, I measured the inside of the new Dt Swiss hollow thru axle and it seems to measure to a 6 mm in thickness. I have yet to be able to find a quick release skewer with a 6mm thickness. My question is, do they make a 6mm QR skewer? And also would I be able to run the rear with the 5mm skewer I have?
    My thought process is that since the skewer tightens side to side on the axle and the axle is therefor stationary allowing the wheel to spin and put force on the bearings and not on the skewer, so I would think it was ok to run the 5 mm skewer.




    Any my help or input is greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
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    I would not run the 5MM on a 6mm as you are more likely to damage the hub, especially when you jump/land. I did a quick search on Amazon.com and I did see a 6MM.

  3. #3
    Cyclemore
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    Also looking for 6mm rear quick release.

    I am also looking for a rear 6mm quick release for my Magura Comp (Same as DT Onyx) hub.
    I looked at the Amazon link that Skewe provided but it is now just linking to the home page.
    I have looked through the entire Amazon.co.uk site and have not found a quick release described as 6mm O/D.

    Halo do a 6mm Hex nut skewer but I am after a quick release.

    Can anyone point me in the right direction?

    I was thinking about Skewe's comment on doing damage to the hub without the correct diameter skewer and have the following thoughts…

    Running a 5mm quick release skewer in a 6mm hole means that your volutes (tapered coils) are likely to get mashed into the gap between the skewer and the axle inner.

    I imagine that when your wheel is “taking a hit” the main loaded points are
    1) The friction between your hub locknuts and the inner faces of your dropouts.
    2) Fractionally less so, the friction between the skewer grippy face and the frame dropout.
    3) If 1 & 2 are failing, the short piece of axle that sits in the dropout
    Given that my 6mm axle has a thin wall (because it still has standard 10mm O/D), AND THAT IT IS THREADED, it is obviously not supposed to support any weight in the dropouts.
    If the axle ends were subjected to load, I suppose the 6mm skewer would prevent more 'squashage' than a 5mm.
    So it appears to me that it is all about whether the skewer can clamp tight enough and that the “grippy faces” do not allow slippage.
    Some skewers have steel grippy faces for that reason rather than all aluminium although there is a minimal weight penalty. Sheldon Brown has some good info on skewer types.
    My comments have borne in mind previous bikes I have owned (Steel & Aluminium) but if anyone has any thoughts on friction and interfaces to carbon components I would like to hear.
    Do carbon frames have aluminium dropouts?
    Adam (Cyclemore)

  4. #4
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    The quick release skewer functions in tension only. It's not supposed to fit tightly within the axle. As long as the axle sits in the dropout correctly, your first thought was correct too - use what you've got and be happy.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

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