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  1. #1
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    Anyone ride the 2011 scalpel yet?

    Wondering what you think and also comparison between 2011 and current scalpel

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    Quote Originally Posted by guvna
    Wondering what you think and also comparison between 2011 and current scalpel
    I can't compare to the 2010 but I rode the 2011 at Park City and it was ultra responsive and quick in all ways. It climbed well and stopped well, the remote lockout for the Lefty was a useful addition. It was too fast for me personally but I enjoyed the ride better after I learnt to stay off the brakes as much as possible.

    Its a pure racing machine without a doubt.

  3. #3
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    One thing about the Scalpel that is still going to be true is that it's an almost zero stiction dually bike. I noticed this the other day when I was cruising downhill at 30 or so mph. Because there is basically no drag in the suspension components, relative to other XC race bikes, the suppleness and small bump compliance of the Scalpel is unmatchable. That means with the right tire pressures you can have more grip than with ANY other bike. That should still hold true in 2011.
    Emory Kalahari Kruiser

  4. #4
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    Anyone know if you can fit a 2.25 tire in the rear?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by guvna
    Wondering what you think and also comparison between 2011 and current scalpel
    Its been a while since I have ridden the current one, but the 2011 is pretty sick. I rode it back in July and Cannondale has done it again. The bike is super light and responsive. I rode the ultimate (team) model with the XLR Lefty, DT carbon wheels, XX...etc. I think the 80mm of travel is better for this bike because the rear end is stiffer is the right places. The ride is similar to the Scalpel 100, from what I remember, but this bike is much stiffer in the bottom bracket and in the rear end.

    The lefty lockout is similar to the current lockout function wise, but the XLR is sick, the ability to lockout without moving anything but your thumb is pretty cool.

    (Dont mind the not tightened steerer.)


  6. #6
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    I heard that the rear susp is a more usable [@ 80 mm] travel because of what they have done to the flex stays. A [lighter] rider would not use the full travel of the scalpel 100. Sounds like they have changed the flex of the chain stays[ maybe size specific]. I also heard that the lateral flex is way stiffer.

  7. #7
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    The 2011 scalpel 3 is a wicked looking bike

  8. #8
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    Looked at it, touched it, picked it up, spoke about it

    Allowed to ride it



    Roland

  9. #9
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    I certainly hope that they have resolved the chainstay cracking problem.

    Broke my 2nd Scalpel and waiting for warranty replacement... Hope I get 2011 model as replacement.

  10. #10
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    I have a scalpel 2006 team bike. I LOVE the rear end as the non pivot stays make the bike feel like it has double the travel it has.

    Am I correct in saying the 2011 ultimate would be night and day better than the 2006 team?

    I was always an aluminium man - basically due to the thinking that aluminium was stiffer. Is the latest scalpel marginally stiffer than the old alloy frames or MUCH stiffer?

  11. #11
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    I've got about 60 miles on the 2011 now and coming from the 2010 Scalpel, I can tell a difference in the overall lateral rigidity of the bike. It seems to be more stable at speed.

    The new rear shock (RockShox RT3) has a 3 position lever that goes from full open to almost full lockout. The decrease in travel from 100mm to 80mm isn't noticeable at all. In fact, an informed insider told me that 100mm on the previous Scalpel was wishful thinking and in practicality it was more like 90-ish.

    The new cable routing is much better as you don't have the rear cables riding up above the shock under the top tube. There are also guides present for a future remote rear lockout. All cables run down the down tube so although they are at risk of getting pegged by rocks and such, they will protect the carbon from some impact

    The horizontal top tube length for the 2011 appears to be 0.6 inches shorter, so the setback FSA post made this adjustment easier.

    Cosmetically, the frame has some dark grey graphics on the front of the frame on the head tube and into the top and down tubes which is actually pretty cool. The team sponsor decals on the rear stays are now clearcoated as well.

    The wheels are pretty stiff. The owner's manual states they are not to be used with a tubeless kit or tires, but a band of Stan's tape and a rim strip have them sealed well. Included were the DT Swiss RWS skewer and the centerlock to 6 bolt adapter so the XX rear rotor can now be used. Front hub is now made by DT Swiss.

    I think that about does it....overall I think it's an improvement over the previous generation as it's lighter and stiffer. The potential negatives of reduced travel at both ends is not a factor at all and not noticeable as the bike seems more stable overall.

    Mine weighs 19.04 lbs with 4ti eggs
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone ride the 2011 scalpel yet?-2011scalpel2.jpg  

    Anyone ride the 2011 scalpel yet?-2011scalpel6.jpg  

    Anyone ride the 2011 scalpel yet?-2011scalpel5.jpg  

    Anyone ride the 2011 scalpel yet?-2011scalpel3.jpg  

    Anyone ride the 2011 scalpel yet?-2011scalpel4.jpg  

    Last edited by trauma-md; 10-05-2010 at 06:55 PM.

  12. #12
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    that looks awesome... im fighting ordering one to replace my rush and its getting harder and harder!

  13. #13
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    What a monster of bike,congrats ,i have to sale mine 2009 nowwwwwww.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by trauma-md
    I've got about 60 miles on the 2011 now and coming from the 2010 Scalpel, I can tell a difference in the overall lateral rigidity of the bike. It seems to be more stable at speed.

    The new rear shock (RockShox RT3) has a 3 position lever that goes from full open to full lockout. The decrease in travel from 100mm to 80mm isn't noticeable at all. In fact, an informed insider told me that 100mm on the previous Scalpel was wishful thinking and in practicality it was more like 90-ish.

    The new cable routing is much better as you don't have the rear cables riding up above the shock under the top tube. There are also guides present for a future remote rear lockout. All cables run down the down tube so although they are at risk of getting pegged by rocks and such, they will protect the carbon from some impact

    The horizontal top tube length for the 2011 appears to be 0.6 inches shorter, so the setback FSA post made this adjustment easier.

    Cosmetically, the frame has some dark grey graphics on the front of the frame on the head tube and into the top and down tubes which is actually pretty cool. The team sponsor decals on the rear stays are now clearcoated as well.

    The wheels are pretty stiff. The owner's manual states they are not to be used with a tubeless kit or tires, but a band of Stan's tape and a rim strip have them sealed well. Included were the DT Swiss RWS skewer and the centerlock to 6 bolt adapter so the XX rear rotor can now be used. Front hub is now made by DT Swiss.

    I think that about does it....overall I think it's an improvement over the previous generation as it's lighter and stiffer. The potential negatives of reduced travel at both ends is not a factor at all and not noticeable as the bike seems more stable overall.

    Mine weighs 19.04 lbs with 4ti eggs
    Me... wants...
    And I have two friends in line to buy my 2008...

    The DT front hub and the Cannondale look strangely identical, I doubt they're different hubs, one is probably just a rebrand of the other.

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  15. #15
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    Nice rig. Do you think you could fit a 2.25 tire in the back?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous
    Me... wants...
    And I have two friends in line to buy my 2008...

    The DT front hub and the Cannondale look strangely identical, I doubt they're different hubs, one is probably just a rebrand of the other.
    It does, but I didnt know Cannondale is still making a 24 hole version. Hmm..

  17. #17
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    WOW Trauma, thanks for the awesome report! Sounds like you are loving it and you feel the rear travel feels the same. What is your weight?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by amillmtb
    It does, but I didnt know Cannondale is still making a 24 hole version. Hmm..
    Dan's right, I'm pretty sure it is just Cannondale Lefty 24hole hub with a new sticker on it.


    "trauma-md" - Bike looks awesome, very nice indeed . How does the Lefty lockout lever feel?
    Cannondale: Team Scalpel, Flash Ultimate, Hooligan 9
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  19. #19
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    arrived mine , tomorrow going to pick her up

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Broseph
    Nice rig. Do you think you could fit a 2.25 tire in the back?
    Yeah what he said. Anyone know?

  21. #21
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    These are pictures of the clearances with a Racing Ralph 2.1.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone ride the 2011 scalpel yet?-img_1951.jpg  

    Anyone ride the 2011 scalpel yet?-img_1953.jpg  


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    It does look like it has a bit of wiggle room. I wonder if a 2.25 racing ralph would fit. That would be a deal breaker if not, considering the short travel.

  23. #23
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    maybe 27,5" ready ????

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Broseph
    It does look like it has a bit of wiggle room. I wonder if a 2.25 racing ralph would fit. That would be a deal breaker if not, considering the short travel.
    Yeah, what he said.

  25. #25
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    Looks similar to the 2008-10 rear end. Some have no problem running a 2.25... I haven't been that lucky. It definitely fits, it will be a question of how much flex your rear wheel has to force the tire to rub. Maybe with the carbon rims it won't be as noticeable...

  26. #26
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    If the dimensions are not changed at that part of the frame I think a 2.25" will fit in the beginning. After some time, when there's a bit flex (due to some play at the frogleg, slightly bend shock bolt) the chance of rubbing will be higher.

    I don't think the Scalpel is made for big tires. If you want big tires you should think of the RZ120...

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onno
    If the dimensions are not changed at that part of the frame I think a 2.25" will fit in the beginning. After some time, when there's a bit flex (due to some play at the frogleg, slightly bend shock bolt) the chance of rubbing will be higher.

    I don't think the Scalpel is made for big tires. If you want big tires you should think of the RZ120...


    I dont think the frame will develop side flex over time thanks to the pivotless design. If the tires moves more laterally over time, I would suggest checking the wheel's spokes and bearing preload. Also just make sure the swinglink pivot bolts are tightened but you shouldn't see such a loss of stiffness. I broke one of the bolt on my swinglink once and the bike had no more side flex... The old, 1st generation Scalpel might have more chances to experience what you describe, but it's still better off than pretty much any other FS bike designs that have pivots at each junctions...

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  28. #28
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    mine , 8790 g
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone ride the 2011 scalpel yet?-hpim1003.jpg  

    Anyone ride the 2011 scalpel yet?-hpim1004.jpg  

    Anyone ride the 2011 scalpel yet?-hpim1007.jpg  

    Anyone ride the 2011 scalpel yet?-hpim1005.jpg  


  29. #29
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    trauma,

    mine has new spider black for XX, you had the older .


    after a short ride , my impressions:

    73mm of BBshell is the best upgrade ! very stiff.

    more stiffness in the rear chainstays , a good improvement .

  30. #30
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    Excellent ,great bike ,8,7kg ,what a rocket !!!

  31. #31
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    Lovely eliflap, might have to find myself one... A few questions now that you have it:

    - Are the tubular tires heavy? I thought those wheels were lighter than the DT...
    - Is the new spider a different offset? Better chainline than the old one or is it just to offset the wider BB?
    - How did you score the wheels by the way? Top secret source?

    By the way, the Racing Ralph tubulars the CFR team tested are now available, listed at 540gr.
    Last edited by Dan Gerous; 10-07-2010 at 09:40 AM.

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  32. #32
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    Eliflap, crazy as usual, in the good way.

    I had a chance to test the new Scalpel at Eurobike.
    It's true that is stiffer, more stable at bigger speed, I really like it. But now I have the 2009 Scalpel and I probably get the Flash now to have a fully and a hardtail

    Hope to see more of the new Scalpel in Romania too. :-)

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onno
    If the dimensions are not changed at that part of the frame I think a 2.25" will fit in the beginning. After some time, when there's a bit flex (due to some play at the frogleg, slightly bend shock bolt) the chance of rubbing will be higher.

    I don't think the Scalpel is made for big tires. If you want big tires you should think of the RZ120...
    But I want a light race bike. Not a RZ120. If the RZ120 was available in a carbon version, then maybe. Also, plenty of racers prefer larger tires. This is beside the point though.

  34. #34
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    Just marking my place. Look forward to hearing more reviews from the owners after a few rides.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by vladxc
    Eliflap, crazy as usual, in the good way.

    I had a chance to test the new Scalpel at Eurobike.
    It's true that is stiffer, more stable at bigger speed, I really like it. But now I have the 2009 Scalpel and I probably get the Flash now to have a fully and a hardtail

    Hope to see more of the new Scalpel in Romania too. :-)

    i saw you on tv , vlad

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous
    Lovely eliflap, might have to find myself one... A few questions now that you have it:

    - Are the tubular tires heavy? I thought those wheels were lighter than the DT...
    - Is the new spider a different offset? Better chainline than the old one or is it just to offset the wider BB?
    - How did you score the wheels by the way? Top secret source?

    By the way, the Racing Ralph tubulars the CFR team tested are now available, listed at 540gr.


    my Tufo XC4 are very wide ... 2.2 not usual on tubolars

    my pair is 513 and 515 g

    37 g of tape per wheel + 50ml sealant


    my Mavic Ultimate wheelset is front 558 and rear 640


    the DT XCR 1.2 wheelset ( now in a wonderful UD layout , not as my previous set of last year ) is
    front 610 and rear 760 including rear skewer and CL-IS adapter

    the pair of FF 2011 star , tubeless ready , is 700 , 340 and 340 g

    per wheel 170 g of puncture tape and inner tube



    spider : i have a 2011 here . can compare them
    Last edited by eliflap; 10-07-2010 at 01:17 PM.

  37. #37
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    those tufos do look big. that is promising

  38. #38
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    trauma :

    had you check air pressure on rear shock ?

    found manual on Sram web site , it's a 2008 version RT3 is not listed

    there is 3.3 , similar to RT3 i guess

    i did only 15 km , not seen the pressure before ...

  39. #39
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    FAST looking Scalpels!! So 2011 will have black XX spiders?? I'm thinking to order an XX drivetrain for my Rize, I think the black would look better on mine...

  40. #40
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    those wheels are so sweet...looks great...i wouldn´t touch anymore on that bike

  41. #41
    YB1
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    Quote Originally Posted by eliflap
    trauma,

    mine has new spider black for XX, you had the older .


    after a short ride , my impressions:

    73mm of BBshell is the best upgrade ! very stiff.

    more stiffness in the rear chainstays , a good improvement .

    So the new spider is for a better chainline, or just a different color?
    Emory Kalahari Kruiser

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by eliflap
    trauma,

    mine has new spider black for XX, you had the older .


    after a short ride , my impressions:

    73mm of BBshell is the best upgrade ! very stiff.

    more stiffness in the rear chainstays , a good improvement .

    eliflap, what about rear plush-ness?

  43. #43
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    @Eliflap: You cannot go by any rear shock manufacturers instructions to set up the shock's air pressure as the Scalpel's stays have some built in preload. For example the Monarch manual states to start with your body weight in air pressure, but when you utilize the 8-10mm sag method as instructed by cannondale, the resultant pressure is MUCH lower.

    I weigh about 132 lbs and I put about 20psi in the rear shock. There is probably enough preload that I could run the shock empty and still be able to maintain some decent performance.

    Hope this helps

  44. #44
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    my order has been placed...

  45. #45
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    2011 Scalpel single speed-able?
    2011 Scalpel single speed-able?
    anyone know if this would work?
    good ski/bike deals at www.mntlion.com

    My life is better than your vacation.

  46. #46
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    my 2010 green frog suddenly feels dated

    BTW- does the 2011 croak I mean creek like the previous Scalpels?

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by trauma-md
    @Eliflap: You cannot go by any rear shock manufacturers instructions to set up the shock's air pressure as the Scalpel's stays have some built in preload. For example the Monarch manual states to start with your body weight in air pressure, but when you utilize the 8-10mm sag method as instructed by cannondale, the resultant pressure is MUCH lower.

    I weigh about 132 lbs and I put about 20psi in the rear shock. There is probably enough preload that I could run the shock empty and still be able to maintain some decent performance.

    Hope this helps
    i found a manual on Sram website

    it says psi as pounds of rider

    max pressure is 225 psi

    now i setted to 150, at delivery was 60

    going to tide now and test

  48. #48
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    the scalpel has always been the same - forget the instruction manual from the shock manufacturer and dial in around 8-10mm of sag. that will get you the best pressure.

  49. #49
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    170 was too hard. setted to 100 psi and having 20% sag.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous


    - Is the new spider a different offset? Better chainline than the old one or is it just to offset the wider BB?

    i do not think there is a difference in the two XX spiders.

    i saw this morning the 42T ring ... it's horrible how it's close to chainstay ...

    not measured but 0.5 mm seems to be a right value

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