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  1. #1
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    Another Lefty Question

    I'm looking for a Lefty to use on a new build. I really like the way my XLR performs on my current build and don't want to loose this performance with any of the lesser forks offered on the market.

    This bike will be a 29er and I'm looking at this fork Lefty Speed DLR2 110. It is a 2007 model. How much travel can I get out of this fork when I switch it over to be 29er capable? I would really like to get 100mm if possible.
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidR1 View Post
    I'm looking for a Lefty to use on a new build. I really like the way my XLR performs on my current build and don't want to loose this performance with any of the lesser forks offered on the market.

    This bike will be a 29er and I'm looking at this fork Lefty Speed DLR2 110. It is a 2007 model. How much travel can I get out of this fork when I switch it over to be 29er capable? I would really like to get 100mm if possible.
    The 2007 dampers aren't as sophisticated tuning wise as the 2011 ones, but they work just fine.

    You'll be able to get 80mm out of that fork in 29er mode. Want more, like the 100 you state? Gotta go up to a 130 or 140.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  3. #3
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    Can I upgrade the damper to the newest version? Looks like it per your thread here: Good news for older Lefty owners!

    If I did this, would I get the 90mm (or even 100mm) out of it? Is this conversion possible?
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  4. #4
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    Long story short, yes, you can upgrade to the PBR (any 2005 or new fork can) but it's damper would now be a 100mm version, stopped down to 70 for 29er. Sorry.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Long story short, yes, you can upgrade to the PBR (any 2005 or new fork can) but it's damper would now be a 100mm version, stopped down to 70 for 29er. Sorry.
    Well that is going in the wrong direction, but thanks for the help. I now have a better idea of what I need for my project.
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  6. #6
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    It is possible to mount a XLR 140mm damper in the older DLR2 Lefties (it is entierly unofficial and requires some manipulation). First one needs to modify the damper mounting tool so it can reach 1.5cm deeper into the fork. A special washer needs to be used to mount the XLR damper in the DLR2 Lefty to block movement of the inner bearing races. This washer is supplied with the XLR dampers. The flat side of the washer should face down. One needs to mount 3x1cm travel reducers on the upper damper shaft of the XLR damper to prevent fork bottom out into the tire (the same as you do if you want to convert to 29"). Check bottom out of the converted fork before you ride ! This gives aprox 110mm travel (i.e as the DLR2 was with the original DLR damper). No volume reducer to be used in the air cylinder. There will be aprox 6cm air left in the bottom of the cylinder when the fork is bottomed out, so that is ok. If one wants to make a further trick it is possible to cut 8mm of the white nylon tube on the lower XLR damper shaft (the tube just above the two black solo air rubber bumpers). This tube then becomes 41mm long instead of 49mm long. This will give aprox 120mm travel out of a old DLR2 fork (which originally is 110 mm), and the XLR remote function ! Nice. I have done this on three bikes and it works fine.

    I guess if one wants to make this a 29 Lefty you would need to add 3 further 1cm travel reducers on the upper damper shaft and you would get aprox 90mm travel.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by viktor2 View Post
    It is possible to mount a XLR 140mm damper in the older DLR2 Lefties (it is entierly unofficial and requires some manipulation). First one needs to modify the damper mounting tool so it can reach 1.5cm deeper into the fork. A special washer needs to be used to mount the XLR damper in the DLR2 Lefty to block movement of the inner bearing races. This washer is supplied with the XLR dampers. The flat side of the washer should face down. One needs to mount 3x1cm travel reducers on the upper damper shaft of the XLR damper to prevent fork bottom out into the tire (the same as you do if you want to convert to 29"). Check bottom out of the converted fork before you ride ! This gives aprox 110mm travel (i.e as the DLR2 was with the original DLR damper). No volume reducer to be used in the air cylinder. There will be aprox 6cm air left in the bottom of the cylinder when the fork is bottomed out, so that is ok. If one wants to make a further trick it is possible to cut 8mm of the white nylon tube on the lower XLR damper shaft (the tube just above the two black solo air rubber bumpers). This tube then becomes 41mm long instead of 49mm long. This will give aprox 120mm travel out of a old DLR2 fork (which originally is 110 mm), and the XLR remote function ! Nice. I have done this on three bikes and it works fine.

    I guess if one wants to make this a 29 Lefty you would need to add 3 further 1cm travel reducers on the upper damper shaft and you would get aprox 90mm travel.

    .......and then you have to make sure you have a good dental plan as the in- sufficient overlap of the inner and outer leg will cause you to plant your face in the dirt after a nice endo and f-up your grill....
    Oh...and then don't forget to take a pic of that Lefty after it snapped, to post it online, blame cannondale and say the Lefty sucks.......
    "Common sense isn't always that common!"
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  8. #8
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    Maniac,
    Would this change the overlap? The telescope was originally designed for 110mm. The new xlr cartridge is what limits the travel to 100. So of the 140mm cartridge allows it to go back to 110mm all should be good. I'm not saying people should do this, who knows how the damping gets re-tuned by doing this, but the the telescope should still be sound. Mendon, any thoughts? Now to my question, when I removed my xlr damper, what looks like a race retaining clip came out with it. I looked down at the telescope and can see a clip on the races. Is this clip that came out that "washer" that viktor2 is speaking of?

  9. #9
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    The DLR2 Lefty is not using a race retaining clip on top of the inner races. When you mount a XLR damper in a DLR Lefty you however need to put a special washer on the damper (this washer is intended specially for putting a XLR damper in a DLR fork) to ensure the races are kept in position. This washer is perfectly circular and does not look like the retaining clip washers that have four sides.

    Regarding the conern of maniac below about a reduced overlap between the inner and outer leg of the Lefty, potentially causing an issue: The overlap between the inner and outer legs of Lefties (and the headshock forks) is only determined by the length of the bearing cages (which hold the 22 needle bearings). This is not changed with the mod I describe below.

    FYI: In a German bike magazine recently Cannondale had made a mod to a XLR Max140 Lefty to 150mm (to better suit the rear travel of the new Jekyll). It is not described what/how they did this but I strongly suspect it is the same mod as I describe below.

    (PS / maniac: It may be good to take a better dental insurance for other reasons... we all get older and our teeth will get worse over time and need fixing or they fall out with time.)

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rumshcawheely View Post
    Mendon, any thoughts?
    I'm staying away from this one, far away.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    I'm staying away from this one, far away.
    I hear you brother!

  12. #12
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    So Mendon,
    Did my xlr have an extra retainer or does this 2nd one I speak of, serve a purpose?

  13. #13
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    regarding the modification I describe below:

    I dont really care who wants to try this or who wants to "stay away from this". It is up to each and every one of us to make their own individual decisions.

    I however have no commercial interest in one way or the other. I am not running a bike shop nor a Lefty cervice centre. I am just a guy with the necessary tools that is intriged to find mechanical workarounds and extensions to the bikes I have, which are mainly Cannondales.

    I have used a XLR 140 damper in a DLR2 Lefty, converted to 120mm, for the past 6 months now and it works perfectly. I find this a great unofficial extension to the Cannondales, along the spirit of the of the über V concept, which as you know is cutting aluminium parts of the original frame, not at all endorsed by Cannondale or bike shops as these want to sell more new bikes instead.

    Of course getting a new Lefty Max XLR 140 is the best option. It is more flexible as you can easily change the travel, convert it to 29", and it is lighter than a converted DLR2 Lefty and it requires no modified tools to work on it.. if you have the money for a new Lefty Max 140 of course.

    The drawback of the mod I describe below is clearly that you need a modified tool to mount the XLR 140 damper in the DLR Lefty and you also need the damper shaft clamp tool (commonly available) to remove the air piston. Cutting the plastic tube I regard as a simple manipulation. If you dont want to go to 120mm, but stay at 110mm, you dont need to remove the air pistion and cut the plastic tube, hence no need for the shaft clamp tool.

    Perhaps you are aware of the term "not inovated here" ? If not, I suggest you look it up. I sense it in one of the replies below.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by rumshcawheely View Post
    So Mendon,
    Did my xlr have an extra retainer or does this 2nd one I speak of, serve a purpose?
    They come with several, depending on the fork it's getting used on....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  15. #15
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    It's an xlr 100 2011 model. Green damper.

  16. #16
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    rumshcawheely:
    The XLR Lefty has two retainer clips on the top of the inner races. See the drawing on page 27 in the documentation:
    http://cdn.cannondale.com/Manuals/20...26564_0811.pdf
    See where the number KF119 is in the drawing ?

    The lower clip fits into grooves in the bearing races and prevent the races from moving up/down. If you take a flash light and check inside the fork (damper not mounted) you should be able to see it. The other clip sits on top of the first clip. Its function is to ensure that the bearing races can not move outwards and jump away from the first reatiner clip. The top clip goes around the outside of the bearing races, holding it all together. These clips do not look the same. The top clip has a bigger diameter.

    It sounds like it is the top retainer clip that came out when you removed the damper. Nothing to worry about. You need to mount this clip back by using two spokes and a flash light to check you get it in the correct position over the bearing races inside the fork before you mount the damper.

  17. #17
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    Here's the problem: The lower legs depending on the specific lefty model are all different lengths....if you put a longer stroke cartridge into a telescope structure designed for lesser travel the only thing that keeps the lefty from overextending then are the needle bearing races! So every time that "modified" lefty is fully extended the needle bearing races take all that impact! Remember those cages are made out of nylon. So if you ride it like that it's like you're doing a needle bearing reset, everytime the fork extends banging and squeezing them them to where they can just fall apart.
    Especially if you run it with a lot of pressure and/or little rebound damping.
    The only way a you can prevent this is by taking that 140 cartridge completely apart and place appropriate top out bumpers on the upper shaft, on top of the lock out shims stack/ valve assembly but even that IMO is kinda iffy.
    The overlap btw is NOT just the length of the needle bearings cages and the cartridge is what keeps the lefty structure from overextending and squeezing the needle bearings as I described above.
    "Common sense isn't always that common!"
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdalemaniac View Post
    Here's the problem: The lower legs depending on the specific lefty model are all different lengths....if you put a longer stroke cartridge into a telescope structure designed for lesser travel the only thing that keeps the lefty from overextending then are the needle bearing races! So every time that "modified" lefty is fully extended the needle bearing races take all that impact! Remember those cages are made out of nylon. So if you ride it like that it's like you're doing a needle bearing reset, everytime the fork extends banging and squeezing them them to where they can just fall apart.
    Especially if you run it with a lot of pressure and/or little rebound damping.
    The only way a you can prevent this is by taking that 140 cartridge completely apart and place appropriate top out bumpers on the upper shaft, on top of the lock out shims stack/ valve assembly but even that IMO is kinda iffy.
    The overlap btw is NOT just the length of the needle bearings cages and the cartridge is what keeps the lefty structure from overextending and squeezing the needle bearings as I described above.
    Thanks for raising this concern, which I of course considered while I made the modification. What you say is not happening, at least not for the combination of a XLR 140 damper in a Lefty DLR2. I dont rule out it may happen if you tried other combinations of dampers and Lefties, but there is no issue with this combination. I have only analysed the XLR 140 damper in a DLR2 as this is the only combination that is relevant for me.

    Of course it would not be acceptable if the top out took place against the bearing cages ! Not only would it damage the bearing cages over time, the Solo air would also stop to function (valve not opening) as it relies on the top out taking place between the solo air piston and the rubber bumpers on the lower damper shaft.

    I have checked where the bearing cages limit the travel (let the fork extend fully without the damper installed) and then done the same with the modified damper installed. Conclusion: the top out of the Lefty is still fully contolled by the solo air mechanism and the rubber bumpers on the lower damper shaft, just like before and just like it should be. The damper internal top out would also take place far before the bearing cages can ever be hit and limit the travel. I have not modified the inside of the damper as it is not necessary. If I recall correctly there is still aprox 1cm difference between the top out with the modified damper installed and the full extension of the telescope of the Lefy (i.e. against the bearing cages, without damper installed).

    Perhaps it may be hard to belive, but the modification works perfect. I tried it on 3 different DLR2 Lefties and the result is the same on all. It did take some carefull analysis to figure out how to do it and to prevent any issue such as the one you describe, but it is enteriely possible to do.

    I leave it to each and everyone to determine if this mod can have a value to you. It requires some work. No doubt it is easier and better to buy a brand new XLR 140/120 fork.

    I saved some money getting the XLR functionality this way and I had some fun figuring out if it is possible to do this and how.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by rumshcawheely View Post
    It's an xlr 100 2011 model. Green damper.
    Sorry, my mistake, reading too fast, taking in too little.

    The one that came out is the "clip clip". It's job is to hold the inner races in tight against the leg. The race clip beneath it is trapped by the holes at the tops of the races, the clip clip just sits on top. And yes, it's supposed to be there.

    Viktor2, I'm sure it's possible, and as you've done it, that's plain to see. But, just because it can be done, doesn't mean it should, particularly by "the masses". It's not as though there's some Cannondale conspiracy to make folks buy new stuff, that by doing what you are, you're getting around. Designs change, and sometimes, you need to buy a new piece to get what you're looking for, be it the travel you want, the cassette with the right amount of teeth for your needs, whatever. I have a customer who discovered this "fix" on the internet that allowed him to run a larger cog on his road cassette that was available stock. Sure, it works, but he's always in the shop now, grousing about how the shifting isn't great into that gear, it's noisy once it's there, can I take another look at it, etc.

    It was possible, but now, he's dealing with the aftermath of it.

    Good on you for being creative, ride hard and enjoy it, hope it's safe in the long run. Get back to us a year or two from now, and let us know how it's going. However, coming on here and spreading info that is potentially dangerous, not well and thoroughly tested, could damage other parts of a riders rather pricey fork, etc, is just not a really great plan. How you made your cranks fit a different chainring they weren't supposed to,, a new ghetto tubeless set up, etc, is one thing, radically altering an expensive fork, so it's out of design spec, is another.

    I'm not a mod on this board, I'm not going after you, I'm simply stating that as someone who's been here for a long time, seen a lot of stuff come and go, and seen a lot of REALLY bad ideas get tossed out as "hey it worked for me, it'll work for you too", only to know that what was being suggested, will end up a miserable, expensive failure. Not that yours will or won't, but other's mislaid, well intentioned plans, have.

    I simply try to give solid info, that will be safe, and try to keep folks from spending $$ they don't have to.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  20. #20
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    Mendon, you are absolutely right to raise a warning finger, but I would not post such a suggestion if I thought this up yesterday evening and not having evaluated this by real riding. I only report it here now after more than 6 months on 3 separate bikes without troubles and only seen good function. But of course this is not any guarantee for anything. It is just a report how it worked out for me. Like I said in an earlier post, I consider this of very simlar nature as the uber V modifcations that modify the original Cannondal design. I think this forum is a information exchange for all levels. Everyone needs to make their own decsions and choises. I find this it an interesting and possible modification that I want to share with likeminded interested guys (and get constructive feedback for other options) that have an ability and tools to work on the Lefties and the dampers. I am not too concerned that some guy without any clue would try this.. the major threshold is to have the necessary tools. With the standard damper mounting tool it is not even possible to mount a XLR 140 damper into a DLR2 Lefy...
    The uber V modifiations could be done by anyone with a hacksaw, drill and a file, and can go horribly wrong... Perhaps that mod is more worrying in comparison because of this ?

    And finally, if anyone is sceptial about extending the travel of the DLR2 Lefty to 120mm, you do not need to cut the plastic tube on the damper shaft as I described. If you leave the plastic tube as orignial on the XLR 140 damper, the DLR2 Lefty will stay at 110mm, only difference that it adds the improved tunabilty of the XLR damper and the nice remote lockout.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by viktor2 View Post

    Perhaps it may be hard to belive, but the modification works perfect. I tried it on 3 different DLR2 Lefties and the result is the same on all. It did take some carefull analysis to figure out how to do it and to prevent any issue such as the one you describe, but it is enteriely possible to do.
    How exactly did you measure it? The cartridge will extend once it's installed because the positive air pressure will compress the solo air top out bumpers.....
    But, whatever floats your boat dude.
    Your comparison with the Uber V mod and your "Mac Gyvere'd" Lefty is really more like comparing apples with Oranges though.....
    Bottom line is if this was so simple and safe I believe that cannondale engineers would've already come out with this kind of conversion.....
    It's like these guys that run the turbo boost on their cars higher than within the manufacturer's threshold because it's so simple to , but then wonder why internal engine parts wear and fail prematurely or the transmission blows up...... ....
    "Common sense isn't always that common!"
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by viktor2 View Post

    Perhaps it may be hard to belive, but the modification works perfect. I tried it on 3 different DLR2 Lefties and the result is the same on all. It did take some carefull analysis to figure out how to do it and to prevent any issue such as the one you describe, but it is enteriely possible to do.
    How exactly did you measure it? The cartridge will extend once it's installed because the positive air pressure will compress the solo air top out bumpers.....
    But, whatever floats your boat dude.
    Your comparison with the Uber V mod and your "Mac Gyvere'd" Lefty is really more like comparing apples with oranges though.....
    Bottom line is if this was so simple and safe to do one would believe that cannondale engineers already had come out with this kind of conversion.....
    It's like these guys that run the turbo boost on their cars higher than within the manufacturer's threshold because it's so simple to , but then wonder why internal engine parts wear and fail prematurely or the transmission blows up...... ....
    "Common sense isn't always that common!"
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    How did I measure?:
    1 / make a bearing reset (with a damper istalled of course).
    2 / remove damper
    3 / extend fork fully and measure distance from a reference point on the fork upper part to the lefty wheel axis. This is represents the physical limit of the extension of the telescope when it tops out against the bearing races.
    4 / mounted the XLR 140 damper in the DLR Lefty without airpiston or solo air bumpers.
    5 / extended fork fully and measured from the same reference point to the lefty axis. noted that this distance is smaller than the distance measured in point 3, i.e the fork is now topping out inside the damper and not towards the bearing races.
    6 / mounted the solo air and rubber bumpers on the damper shaft and mounted damper back in the fork.
    7 / put 150 psi in the fork and checked that the solo air is operating as it should.
    8 / measured from the same reference point to the lefty axis. noted that this distance is smaller than the distance measured in point 5, i.e the fork is now topping out against the solo air mechanism (i.e not topping out inside the damper, neither against the bearing cages).

    step 6-8 I did first with the original length of the plastic tube on the lower damper shaft, which gives 110mm travel of the fork. This confirmed that a XLR 140 damper in the DLR Left works.

    I then wanted to see if it was possible to take this further (this is not necessary if you dont want to). I repeated step 6-8 with a reduced length of the plastic tube, and found that it still works as described above if the plastic tube is cut to a length of 41mm, but I would not cut more than this. A plastic tube cut to 41mm gives aprox 120mm of fork travel, or probably 118mm to be exact.

    I hope this explained the process. If something was unclear, let me know !

  24. #24
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    Never one to have knee jerk reactions, without subsequently delving deeper out of curiosity, I checked with my super secret inside tech master at Cannondale.

    Turns out you are not endangering yourself by playing with bearing/race/leg overlap, that's not a huge issue in and of itself.

    However, by putting a damper in, which is too long for said structure (overlap and/or travel reducers be damned) you are effectively making the boot, your bottom out bumper.

    As you hit bottom each time, you will be hacking into your boot cutting it into pieces, which, once it goes by the wayside sufficiently, will allow the fork to travel further still, and bottom out the crown on the tire at what will likely be, some particularly inopportune moment.

    So, there it is, no passing of judgement, just user beware.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Never one to have knee jerk reactions, without subsequently delving deeper out of curiosity, I checked with my super secret inside tech master at Cannondale.

    Turns out you are not endangering yourself by playing with bearing/race/leg overlap, that's not a huge issue in and of itself.

    However, by putting a damper in, which is too long for said structure (overlap and/or travel reducers be damned) you are effectively making the boot, your bottom out bumper.

    As you hit bottom each time, you will be hacking into your boot cutting it into pieces, which, once it goes by the wayside sufficiently, will allow the fork to travel further still, and bottom out the crown on the tire at what will likely be, some particularly inopportune moment.

    So, there it is, no passing of judgement, just user beware.
    Well said. cdalmaniac out.
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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by viktor2 View Post
    If something was unclear, let me know !
    Thanks. That was pretty detailed and clear.
    If I had an extra 140 damper laying around I would check it out just out of curiosity.
    (And to flame you if it didn't work....)
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    Mendon, thanks for giving constructive feed back on items that may be concerns with this modification. Thanks also for checking with your Cannondale contacts !

    I will respond to the feed back as long as I am convinced the concerns raised are non issues, so we can arrive at a solid logical and technical end conclusion of this.

    Regarding the concerns you brought up latest with the fork boot potentially being destroyed as the modified fork may be bottoming out against the boot:
    I can safely tell you that this is not an issue !

    Reason:
    If one would let the modified DLR Lefty have such a low bottom out it would be bottoming out into the tire, which would be seriously dangerous and not acceptable. Therefore, as I described in one of the first post I made on this subject, this mod requires that you put 3x1cm bottom out reducers on the upper damper shaft to limit the bottom out (exactly the same as you do when converting a fork to 29"). By doing so the fork bottom out will still occur aprox 2-1.5cm from a 2.3" tire, just like with the original DLR damper in that Lefty. This of course also means that the boot is not experiencing any difference on the bottom out side of the stroke !

    The boot will of course be extended 1 cm further at the top out of the fork if you make the modification to 120mm travel (cutting the plastic tub on the lower damper shaft). If you do not perform that modification, but stay at 110mm travel, the boot will not realize any difference at all from using the original DLR damper.

    I am quite sure that extending the boot with 1cm on the top out side is not an issue, but perhaps you have some feed back on that ? I think it is exactly the same boot that is used on the 140mm Lefties, which obvioulsy extend the boot even further.

    During the process of mounting the 140 damper in the DLR Lefty you may however realise a difference. Depending on your damper mounting tool you may need to compress the fork furhter than usual to be able to make the tool reach the damper and tighten it in the fork. I had to pull most of the boot up on the outer leg to be able to compress the fork sufficiently to mount the damper. This is however a controlled issue as it only happens when you mount the damper and not when riding the bike.

    Maniac: I find your suggestion to "fame"people strange. I would not dream to "flame" you even if the statements you made below turn out to be technically incorrect... I hope we are having a constructive discussion based only on the technical logic and nothing else.
    Last edited by viktor2; 11-02-2011 at 03:15 AM. Reason: spelling bug

  28. #28
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    The spacers won't matter, it's still going to be an issue.

    Run what you brung, I can't stop you.

    You sound like you won't be dissuaded no matter what i tell you, and you've thought yourself into believing it's safe. Not too sure what I can add, but the engineer who's job it is to make these work safely and properly has said there's no way to do what you're doing, without putting yourself at risk. Have fun with it!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  29. #29
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    Mendon, thats right, you cant stop me. But I still want to check and discuss the technicalities to see if there is some aspect I have not thought about properly because the Lefties are complex. So far I conclude there is no issue.

    Let now sort out the logics about the boot getting pinched which seems to be the remaining piece.

    Your most recent post appears incosistent with your previous post, if I understood it correctly ? In the previous post you stated that your unoffical Cdale contact saw no concern extending the telescope, considering the bearing aspect. That is a valuable feed back as it is related to safety.

    Now, in your latest post, you are claiming that the same (?) person is stating there is a "safety" concern ? I think you refer to the boot issue (where he/you claimed that the boot would be compresssed too far and get a pinch and start to leak).

    Firstly, if this would inded be an issue, it is hardly a safety concern. It may be a durabilty concern for the bearings.

    Secondly, I am convinced there is no such issue like compressing the boot/pinching it at all. Please give this a logical analytical thought once more !

    With the modification to the XLR damper that I described (with 3x1cm travel reducers on the upper damper shaft), the fork is set so that it will bottom at the SAME END OF STROKE as with its original DLR damper. Now please tell me how this may be different to the boot ! The boot will not notice any difference whatsoever depending if the fork has the modified XLR 140 damper or the original DLR damper inside.

    Thank you for giving this some thought and preferably not just dismissing the issue, even if this modification may be a bit more complex than most discussions on the forum.

  30. #30
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    Correct, there is not a concern with safety in playing the overlap.

    By putting a longer damper in, than the fork is built for, regardless of how much you limit travel, you are creating the boot destroying, then over the bars situation. You can't avoid it or make that fact go away, I'm sorry.

    You really ought to just put the right things in the right fork, or buy the fork that allows you to do what you want.

    You seem bent on proving that it's possible to do this, yet there's no reason for doing it. It's akin to proving you can paint your house with spaghetti sauce. Sure, it can probably be done, but why? They make paint.

    There's nothing gained in doing what you're doing, besides being penny wise and pound foolish.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  31. #31
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    Hi I'm looking for lefty decor stickers. Ive got a lefty speed gray (colour awful)? You know where to get from?

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    Mendon, of course if the purpose of doing this is not clear it may appear as useless as painting a house in ketchup.

    These are the reasons:
    1 / get XLR damper functionality (better damper tunability and remote lock out) for a DLR2 Lefy.
    2 / less cost than getting a complete XLR Lefty
    3 / maintain the DLR Lefty 110mm travel, or even extending to 120mm, instead of the only approved by cannondale upgrade with a XLR 100 damper in the DLR Lefty, which reduces travel to 100mm
    4 / The XLR damper appears less prone to oil leaks comparing to the DLR dampers (only my own experience).

    I do respect your personal opinion thinking that travel reducers mounted on the upper damper shaft can not reduce fork travel on the bottom out side of the stroke. If that is what you think, ok with me.

    For the rest on the forum that may be interested in this modification I let you know that using 1cm travel reducers on the upper damper shaft is what is done each time a Lefty is coverted to 29" wheels to prevent the fork crown to bottom out into the wheel, so it is well proven and documented that Lefty bottom out travel is reduced and controlled by adding one or more 1cm travel spacers on the upper damper shaft.

    In fact, just to prove the logic, if you would put 14 x 1cm spacers on the upper damper shaft of a XLR 140 damper, you would end up with a Lefty that does not compress at all !

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by viktor2 View Post
    Mendon, of course if the purpose of doing this is not clear it may appear as useless as painting a house in ketchup.

    These are the reasons:
    1 / get XLR damper functionality (better damper tunability and remote lock out) for a DLR2 Lefy.
    2 / less cost than getting a complete XLR Lefty
    3 / maintain the DLR Lefty 110mm travel, or even extending to 120mm, instead of the only approved by cannondale upgrade with a XLR 100 damper in the DLR Lefty, which reduces travel to 100mm
    4 / The XLR damper appears less prone to oil leaks comparing to the DLR dampers (only my own experience).

    I do respect your personal opinion thinking that travel reducers mounted on the upper damper shaft can not reduce fork travel on the bottom out side of the stroke. If that is what you think, ok with me.

    For the rest on the forum that may be interested in this modification I let you know that using 1cm travel reducers on the upper damper shaft is what is done each time a Lefty is coverted to 29" wheels to prevent the fork crown to bottom out into the wheel, so it is well proven and documented that Lefty bottom out travel is reduced and controlled by adding one or more 1cm travel spacers on the upper damper shaft.

    In fact, just to prove the logic, if you would put 14 x 1cm spacers on the upper damper shaft of a XLR 140 damper, you would end up with a Lefty that does not compress at all !

    Thanks for all the info....
    You're the man! you did it!
    You made possible what no cannondale engineer could think of!
    Props!
    Don't forget to patent it before somebody else makes a killing on this discovery!
    I feel sorry for mendon....he might be running out of business now!
    How about a pic by pic tutorial?
    I'm a slow thinker and need pictures to process all of this!
    "Common sense isn't always that common!"
    Custom Prophet and Custom Delta V

  34. #34
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    Step by step for upgrade of DLR2 Lefty with a XLR 140 damper, providing 110mm or 120mm travel and remote lock out.

    Special tools needed:
    1 / Lefty damper mounting tool that can reach at least 1.5 cm deeper into the fork compared to the usual damper mounting tool. I cut the arms off a old ”castle” tool to create an extention that made this possible. Other ways may be possible.
    2 / damper shaft clamp tool

    Hardware needed:
    1 / Lefty DLR2 (carbon or alu)
    2 / XLR 140mm damper with remote lockout and solo air (solo air piston and 2 rubber bumpers with plastic washers).
    3 / 3 x 1cm Lefty travel reducers. These are used to convert Lefties for use with 29” wheels.
    4 / a specific washer to mount the XLR damper in forks without bearing race retaining clips on the Lefty inner tube. This washer should come with the XLR damper. You should not mount a XLR damper in the DLR2 Lefty without this washer. This washer is needed to keep the bearing races in place. This washer is aprox 3mm thick, perfectly circular (i.e. not having 4 sides as a race retaining clip). It has one side with a larger outer diameter. If you can not get this specific washer you could also use 3 flat washers (each aprox 1mm thick) intended for mounting a DLR damper in a DLR Lefty (note: one such DLR washer is not sufficient to mount the XLR damper in the DLR Lefty as it will not be able to keep the bearing races in place).
    5 / Lefty XLR upper collar to close the fork (this is the ring that is tightend with the shimano BB tool). This original part from the DLR Lefty will not fit with a XLR damper.

    Procedure:
    1 / remove all air from air cylinder of Lefty
    2 / open top of Lefty
    3 / make a bearing reset if necessary (with the old DLR damper still in the fork)
    4 / remove the DLR damper (ensure first that there is no air in the air cylinder)
    5 / add 3 x 1 cm travel reducers on the upper XLR damper shaft (between the top plate and the bottom out rubber bumper). These travel reducers are simply snapped onto the damper shaft. No reason to dissasemble anything on the damper.
    6 / There should be a nylon tube of 49mm length on the lower XLR damper shaft (this tube has one 0-ring on the outside). If you want 120mm travel (118mm to be exact), cut this tube to 41mm. If you want to stay with 110mm travel, keep the tube as it is.
    7 / add the solo air piston and the solo air rubber bumpers to the lower XLR damper shaft, if not already installed. Use the shaft clamp tool to hold the damper shaft when removing or mounting the solo air piston.
    8 / remove a volume reducer that may sit inside the bottom of the Lefty air cylinder. This is easieast done by opening the bottom plug of the lefty and let the volume reducer be pushed out when you install the XLR damper from above. You must remove a volume reducer from the Lefty as there will be no space for it, nor any use for it, when you use the XLR 140 damper in the DLR Lefty.
    9 / add the washer under 4/hardware on the XLR damper body. The largest flat surface (with the biggest outer diameter) should face downwards into the fork.
    10 / mount the XLR damper in the Lefty. You may need to move the fork boot up on the outer fork leg to be able to compress the fork enough to mount the XLR damper in the Lefty, depending on how far into the Lefy your damper mounting tool can reach.
    11 / install the remote lock out and close the upper of the fork.
    12 / with a front wheel and a pumped tire installed on the Lefy (no air in the Lefty), compress the fork fully to secure that the fork does not bottom out into the tire. There should be at least 1.5-2 cm between the fork and the tire. If you have installed the travel reducers in point 5 this should not be a problem, but just to double check to secure safety.
    13 / close the bottom of the fork
    14 / fill the air cylinder and check that the solo air and remote lock out works.

    I hope I did not miss anything. If you have questions ask.
    Constructive feed back is very welcome.
    If you are not interested in this upgrade, instead of negative bashing I suggest you ignore this upgrade suggestion alltogether.

  35. #35
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    I have question about Cannondale XLR Hydraulic Remote Lockout Lever.
    I don't like it.
    Is it possible to put Cannondale Lefty PBR 2.0 Knob Assembly or old DLR knob in place of XLR Remote Lockout ?
    If it is possible please help me to do it .
    Thanks in advance.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buda View Post
    I have question about Cannondale XLR Hydraulic Remote Lockout Lever.
    I don't like it.
    Is it possible to put Cannondale Lefty PBR 2.0 Knob Assembly or old DLR knob in place of XLR Remote Lockout ?
    If it is possible please help me to do it .
    Thanks in advance.
    Yes, it can be done. You'll need the PBR control, a different top collar, and the ability to fully tear down and rebuild your damper without damaging it.

    You don't need a different damper or anything though. The damper just needs to get torn down to swap out some small parts.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  37. #37
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    Mendon,
    According to 2012 Lefty Owner's Manual Supplement they have different top cap. Is it problem?

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Buda View Post
    Mendon,
    According to 2012 Lefty Owner's Manual Supplement they have different top cap. Is it problem?
    "Yes, it can be done. You'll need the PBR control, a different top collar, and the ability to fully tear down and rebuild your damper without damaging it."


    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

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