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  1. #1
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    60mm hdshk blowed up...what fork do I convert to????

    Well, my wonderful 60mm headshock has gone ten toes up again....I really wanna join the 21st century and get a conventional fork....ennybody got advice for me? LBS quoted $700 to convert to Fox 80mm SID ($500 fork/$100 reducer?/$100 labor). I wuz gonna try to do better than that by doing it myself...I am an electro-mechanical service technician so used to dismanteleing disembowelliung unmantleing...takin stuff apart. I am willing to buy tools for the headset and all, but my real questions are about how much travel? what brand of fork? LBS said no more than 80mm travel or the bike will be like "easy rider" and extend out to far, but I read the C-dale portion of the forums and some have mounted 130mm forks. I was thinking 100mm Fox or Marzochi with lots of rebuild options and lots of adjustments. Also LBS said rear shock is odd size and frame would be junk after it goes out because no parts avail to rebuild plus no other shock will fit. I am 54 yom 165 lbs, I ride local state park ~1300 ft altitude change on 16.5 mi loop once a week. Comments please?

  2. #2
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    What model Cdale are you riding? How old is it? I'm thinking Super-V 500/700 from the mid/late 90s if it had a 60mm Fatty on it? As far as your ? about the rear shock - no idea - but you can call cannondale and ask to speak to someone in the technical support department. Usually you can get right through. Ask them about the rear shock (helps if you know the year of the bike) and they should be able to point you stright. If the local shop is telling you it's junk - I'm beting they're not a cannondale dealer anyway. If cannondale tells you you're SOL - then you at least have heard it from the horse's mouth.

    I just converted my 98 model F2000 (sz Lg) to a Rock Shox Revelation 426. I set the fork at 110mm and tune the fork for my weight. I also went to a 100mm RaceFace Deus Stem + 6deg rise, and a Race Face Deus XC Low Rise riser. I really like the new feel of the bike - it was a "go fast XC racer" feel to it before with the flat bar and negative rise long stem setup - now I feel like I'm more over the bike, and not as stretched out and leaning over all the time. It's more comfortable, attacks technical stuff better now, and I have 30 mm more travel at current settings. I always did think that my bike was too twitchy before, and with the new setup it actually slowed the handling down to suit me better. When I crank the fork up to 130mm the bike does begin to feel a bit silly on the front end, and handling is slowed a lot.

    Now - your LBS isn't that far off on the pricing - my Revelation was $475 shipped from an ebay retailer (New in box) I bought the Cane creek Shorty DoubleXC Short headset $78 from Jenson USA. Reminder that when you downsize to a 1 1/8" hedadset and fork - you will need a new stem as well. I can't speak to the labor charges - it is a bit of work - but I'm an ex-shop wrench - and if you're mechanical and have the appropriate tools to wrench on your own bike - then I feel secure you can do the conversion yourself. Only shop-only tool you really need is a headset cup press to press the new headset in. I stripped my frame down and then took the new headset in to my LBS and they charged me $10 to press the cups in. The best part is whacking the headshock out of the frame with a BFH. Always therapeutic.

    Shoot me a PM if you decide to tackle it yourself and want help.

  3. #3
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    Well, it IS the local C-dale dealer. I dropped in today and finally convinced 'em a new bike ain't in the cards for now and he opened up a bit. Matched your comments on the head angle slowing down the steering with a longer fork. Told me how to bash out the old fork and offered to help match up the headset and adapters. Much better. Forgot about the stem...more money(!). Check out the Uber Vee pics....pretty good examples of long-ttravel front ends. Next problem to solve is how to change XT combo trigger shift/brake lever to allow for a hyd disc up front......any ideas? Also, when ya start talkin about hacksawing the frame mount for the rear shock and re-drilling....LBS gets hinky and doesn't really wanna talk about that stuff. Botta go...g'night!

  4. #4
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    Well IMO you gotta decide what it is you want because the absolute lowest cost fix is to throw on an 80mm Fatty headshock (some of the older ones can be converted by swapping out the cartribde I believe). If you want to go longer, then you gotta go lefty or reducer headset (the Cane Creek is very good and is on 3 of my Cdales) and a conventional fork. No bike shop is going to want the liability of putting on a fork thats too long (in breech of reccomended length and could cause break and injury), so you gotta think about that as well. Id throw on the 80mm headshock or just buy a nice frameset with one on it like this one...........
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ayphotohosting
    Thats less money that a new fork!
    PrOxY

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the great advice....trying to solve the issue of converting to a front disc from v-brakes: can you rec a mech actuated front disc that will match the 1st-gen Deore XT brake lever? If I can swap to front disc and use the same gruppo it will make things easier....only need to get new front hub...any thoughts?

  6. #6
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    If you're going cable-actuated discs, the Avid BB7 is about the only true choice you have. Poke around in the Brakes forum and you'll find lots of posts echoing that opinion. I'm running mine with the BB7 in the front connected to M737 shifter/brake lever and M737 XT V-brakes on the rear, and it's working out pretty well. Modulation is similar.

    If your question is referring to an earlier non-v-compatible XT lever - then you might have issues. I'm pretty sure that all of the mechanical disc setups out there are designed around a v-brake compatible (long pull) lever.

    If you wanted to look at an upgrade - could always buy newer XT levers from Jenson USA - they have the slightly older XT 751 shifter pods (no levers) on closeout for $63 right now. Then you can get the levers you prefer, or go hydraulic. Put the front on now, and do the rear when you feel like upgrading to 9-speed.

  7. #7
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    Yeah I'm thinking front first and then zoot the rear...

    I wanna do it right first time...looking at a Marz Z1 FR fork, has lots of adjustability, travel, I've seen it mounted on some of the UberVee's. One of the Uber's has the Marz blue paint scheme, looks like maybe an '02 year model, another couple of 'em have later model Bombers. The older one has both v-brake mounts and disc tangs...might make the progression easier to pull off. I don't want to dismantle the bike and then find out I need something different...I only have this one to ride and I'd hate to be off the trail for a month or so.

    Front hub ideas?

  8. #8
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    Oh yeah, when I purch the bike the LBS said it was a 1999 SV 900. He said it orig sold for about $2200. Does that help you figger out what gen XT I have?

  9. #9
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    Hmm - do you have a pic of your bike, or what color is it? The reason I ask is I went to www.vintagecannondale.com and looked up the 1999 Catalog, and there the SV900 shows that it should already have disc brakes. It should also have had the Fatty 80 - not a 60. The 100% for-sure way to know is to look at the serial # and use the Serial # reference page on vintagecannondale.com to figure out when it was produced.

    Or it might be possible your SV was stripped to the frame by a prioer owner, and then rebuilt with a group from a lower-speced bike?

  10. #10
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    " I bought the Cane creek Shorty DoubleXC Short headset $78 from Jenson USA"

    I just bought the same headset from Jenson but I had to pay $99 plus $8 shipping....I like the lighter weight of the flush-mount. Wish I coulda got the lower price though.

    I've gone with a Marzocchi AM1 with 130mm travel...orta be a little more plush than the old headshock. Can't wait to get it on the trail!

  11. #11
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    Youmight want to doublecheck your heaset then - here's the link to the HS you need:
    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...ducing+Hs.aspx

    I'm still seeing it at $78 - there's a difference between it and the other 1.5 reducing HS they make - I believe the part that presses into the headtube has to be shorter to accomodate the Cannondale frame (It's milled out in the frame and not a constant internal diameter from top to bottom.

    I've been in Fruita, CO riding for 3 days now, and there's no way I could have ridden as hard or as technical on my 70mm Fatty - I've had my Revelation set at 100mm for most everything, but cranked it up to 130mm for one fast descent run. It's amazing out there - I'm in Boulder tonight - riding here tomorrow, and then back on a plane Monday.

  12. #12
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    Great! Nuthin like buying something on Friday and finding out there's a lower price on Saturday!! From the same store even. I'll check with Jenson Monday & see what gives.

    Sounds like you're having a great weekend. Have a safe ride. TT ya later.

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