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  1. #601
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    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-img_2389.jpg
    edited this post until i can find another scale to weigh accurately.

    Size Large built for endurance events and fun

    xtr brakes w/ Sram CenterLine X rotors
    xt di2 2x 26/36t & 10/42t
    ESI chunky grips
    Enve seatpost
    Fizik Kurve seat
    Enve M50s laced to new generation Project 321 hubs
    xtr pedals
    stock bar and stem
    Racing Ralph SS 2.25s
    2 random side load bottle cages, need to get new ones
    Hollowgram crank w/ ai spider
    Carbon Lefty 2.0
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Scalpel Count-Down-fullsizerender.jpg  

    Last edited by norty_mtb; 3 Weeks Ago at 06:23 AM. Reason: Need to find new scale

  2. #602
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    Quote Originally Posted by guidodg View Post
    I cannot understand how my Scalpel Si 2 Eagle L weighs 11.6kg....that is 1,5kg heavier than yours...are you sure your scale is accurate?

    Even slimming down the wheel hubs and spokes, seatpost and some small parts I would never shed 1,5kgs
    Hard to be 100% sure. I have a picture of it that i try to attach when i reach a computer (cant find the function when login with my iPhone). The picture say 1,36kg. And that was with tubes. So 200g less after picture was taken. So i lied a little, 10,16kg. But i'm pretty sure my wasnt any 11,6 kg original. But i cant find any picture of it. The scale was a parktool scale i borrowed from a friend. Not sure how accurate they are but usualy parktool dont do shitty things :-)

  3. #603
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    I have a scalpel 2 si M frame with the below parts and its 23.5 pounds
    Lefty 2.0 carbon pbr
    RS monarch RL
    easton ec70 post
    carbon railed fabric saddle
    cdale czero bars
    OPI stem and steerer
    Notubes Valors
    Racing Ralph 2.25 SS
    Guide RS brakes
    Center line X 160 rotors
    xtr pedals
    hollowgram crank w/wolftooth camo 34t oval
    XX1 eagle RD, XX1 eagle shifter
    X01 eagle cassette and chain
    no tubes

    i dont understand how your bike can be over a pound lighter

  4. #604
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    Sorry to be a sceptic but there's no way that weight is correct with that spec.

    Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

  5. #605
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    10.9kg= 24lb 0.48
    Carbon 3 L size with xtr pedals
    furios fred tubeless,
    xx1 cassete & chain.
    36 Garbaruk direct mount chainring
    esi grips

    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-foto-kaspars-garda-seb-mtb-1_485.jpg.1000x1000_q85.jpg

  6. #606
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    no need to be sorry, that's why I noted that I want to verify weight on another scale

    Here is where I did cut weight. Did not weigh chainrings or difference in rear derailleurs.

    -189g Saddle and post
    -35g grips
    -42g rotors
    -108g brakes
    -220g on wheels
    +134g front derailluer

    -460g/1lbs

  7. #607
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    Note that the weight is without the computer mount (and computer ) and without bottle cage/tool. don´t know how accurate the scale is. at the same time, weight hasn't been the the most important in the build, if so, i would have used a lighter rear hub. don't know why the mtbr engine turns the scale picture around
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Scalpel Count-Down-foto-2017-03-11-09-32-05.jpg  

    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-foto-2017-03-26-19-41-34-1-.jpg  


  8. #608
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    Hi there. Just hoping to get some help here. I have a new 2017 scalpel si carbon 1, which came with the shimano freehub body and cassette. I am wanting to change to a sram xd driver and cassette (for the weight savings and extra range). I bought the new freehub body and installed it all ok, however the chain now rubs on the chainstay when in the 10 cog. When looking at the shimano cassette there is about a 1-2mm gap between the chain and chainstay. SO the question is has anyone done this and is there anything to look out for when changing the freehub body on the hub that I might have missed?? I cant find any schematics for the czero rear hub either....
    Cheers

  9. #609
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bcchris View Post
    Hi there. Just hoping to get some help here. I have a new 2017 scalpel si carbon 1, which came with the shimano freehub body and cassette. I am wanting to change to a sram xd driver and cassette (for the weight savings and extra range). I bought the new freehub body and installed it all ok, however the chain now rubs on the chainstay when in the 10 cog. When looking at the shimano cassette there is about a 1-2mm gap between the chain and chainstay. SO the question is has anyone done this and is there anything to look out for when changing the freehub body on the hub that I might have missed?? I cant find any schematics for the czero rear hub either....
    Cheers
    Did you replace the drive side end cap?

    Most hub manufacturers utilize a different drive side end cap for the XD free hubs, so that might be the reason you have contact with the chainstay. Formula, Enve, Stans and DT all include the different end cap with their conversions. I'm not sure who makes the CZero hubs...I've heard Stans or Formula.

  10. #610
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    Quote Originally Posted by trauma-md View Post
    Did you replace the drive side end cap?

    Most hub manufacturers utilize a different drive side end cap for the XD free hubs, so that might be the reason you have contact with the chainstay. Formula, Enve, Stans and DT all include the different end cap with their conversions. I'm not sure who makes the CZero hubs...I've heard Stans or Formula.
    Thanks for the reply. No I didn't replace the end cap. I bought the freehub driver kit from the local dealer and it only came with the xd driver body and a washer (which is the same size as the internal washer that the shimano freehub sits on). I've asked the dealer and they have suggested to bring it in, but they didn't think there was anything special to be done. Having put the shimano driver and cassette back on, I noticed that it also sits incredibly close to the chainstay....

  11. #611
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bcchris View Post
    Thanks for the reply. No I didn't replace the end cap. I bought the freehub driver kit from the local dealer and it only came with the xd driver body and a washer (which is the same size as the internal washer that the shimano freehub sits on). I've asked the dealer and they have suggested to bring it in, but they didn't think there was anything special to be done. Having put the shimano driver and cassette back on, I noticed that it also sits incredibly close to the chainstay....
    You need the formula XD end cap then. The freehub kit you got was a "replacement" rather than conversion.


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  12. #612
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    Thanks for that. I'll put that to the local dealer where I bought it and see what they say! Makes sense. Cheers

  13. #613
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    Quote Originally Posted by trauma-md View Post
    You need the formula XD end cap then. The freehub kit you got was a "replacement" rather than conversion.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I put the shimano freehub and cassette back on and had a look at the clearance. It actually doesn't look much different to when I had the sram on there. Maybe I just hadn't really paid attention to it.

    Attached are a couple of photos showing how close the chain is (and slightly rubs on the chainstay protector).You can see it doesn't touch the chainstay itself but it does touch the protector. Is anyone elses 2017 scalpel this close?

    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-img_6657.jpg

    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-img_6658.jpg

  14. #614
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    Yepp, on the Cannondale/ Formula Hubs its normal!

    Scalpel-Si Carbon 2 Eagle (Lefty) medium size 11.1kg
    stock - out of the box

    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-scalpelsicarbon2eagle.jpg


    FYI:
    The fullsprint lockout lever was broken. There seems to be a little plastic inside which wears out after some time.
    I used one of the service kits for the remote and repaired it.

    Works like before but i had to bleed the remote, of course.

    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-fs_einzel.jpg
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  15. #615
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    How many hours roughly it lasted?

  16. #616
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    This year's service kits have this part made from metal! Theoretically should last much longer!
    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-img_8614.jpg

  17. #617
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    [QUOTE=Bcchris;13186365]I put the shimano freehub and cassette back on and had a look at the clearance. It actually doesn't look much different to when I had the sram on there. Maybe I just hadn't really paid attention to it.

    Attached are a couple of photos showing how close the chain is (and slightly rubs on the chainstay protector).You can see it doesn't touch the chainstay itself but it does touch the protector. Is anyone elses 2017 scalpel this close?

    I tried an e thirteen trs 9-46 cassette with two different wheels and the chain touched the protector. Everything was installed correctly. I had to return the cassette. Stock sram cassette has slight bit of clearance.

  18. #618
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bcchris View Post
    I put the shimano freehub and cassette back on and had a look at the clearance. It actually doesn't look much different to when I had the sram on there. Maybe I just hadn't really paid attention to it.

    Attached are a couple of photos showing how close the chain is (and slightly rubs on the chainstay protector).You can see it doesn't touch the chainstay itself but it does touch the protector. Is anyone elses 2017 scalpel this close?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    My friend has the scalpel 2 and on his bike the clearance is the same as yours. (That comes standard with the XD driver and Sram 1180 cassette). I am concerned about that little clearance as it will cause frame rub. Iam still waiting delivery of my scalpel 2. Its been almost 4 weeks now.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by paul.coetser@gmail.com; 3 Weeks Ago at 06:19 PM.

  19. #619
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    [QUOTE=norty_mtb;13190521]
    Quote Originally Posted by Bcchris View Post

    I tried an e thirteen trs 9-46 cassette with two different wheels and the chain touched the protector. Everything was installed correctly. I had to return the cassette. Stock sram cassette has slight bit of clearance.
    That is really not good! The reason why I still haven't taken delivery of my scalpel 2 is the LBS is waiting for the 9-46 trs cassette. With the little clearance I think I might end up the same as you. It will be a real disappointment to return the trs cassette as it is my solution to the same range as eagle. I do need the range for the type of riding Iam doing...

    Maybe rebuilding the rear wheel with a dt swiss 240s hub will solve the problem. But that is expensive.


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  20. #620
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aleksandrik View Post
    This year's service kits have this part made from metal! Theoretically should last much longer!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yepp thanks.
    Already installed and works again.
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  21. #621
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baltazar View Post
    Note that the weight is without the computer mount (and computer ) and without bottle cage/tool. don´t know how accurate the scale is. at the same time, weight hasn't been the the most important in the build, if so, i would have used a lighter rear hub. don't know why the mtbr engine turns the scale picture around
    Can you please pick a shade of orange and stick to it? I'm sorry, but it looks awful.
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  22. #622
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    Can you please pick a shade of orange and stick to it? I'm sorry, but it looks awful.
    Haha sorry but its not as bad as it looks. Take a photo of tune orange and it looks as gold colors. Looks better irl. But at the same time, maby we have diffrent taste. I like it and its my bike ;-)

  23. #623
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    Few issues! I wanted to collect my scalpel 2 from my lbs today. But the trs 9-46 cassette is to close to chain stay, and the chain catch the frame. We going to get an engineer to manufacture a end cap that is a bit bigger to push the cassette further away from frame. Other option is maybe rebuild rear wheel with different hub...

    Second issue, changed to hope x2 brakes but the lbs cant get the front wheel to rotate without heavy rotor resistance. We are also thinking of drill the caliber hole a little wider, so we can slide the hope caliber 1 mm extra. That is all we need to be able to get the wheel to spin freely. The caliber is already on its max movement but we need a little bit extra.

    Ive also had issues with the hope master cylinder, which was already replaced. Not a good start to hope brakes...

    Has anyone had any of these related issues?


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  24. #624
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    This is how it looked on my from the start. it looked the same with my onyx hub. i contacted onyx and they told me to take some measures on how long it was from the end of the cassette to the end of hub axle and it was well under the limits sram has given for the XD standard. so it looks as it is cannonade that have made a frame that hangs over the hub.
    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-foto-2017-05-26-09-39-48.jpg


    Onyx did make a new endcap for me, so it would work better.
    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-foto-2017-05-26-16-59-45.jpg

    about the brake, i have changed to sram level and had to take some material away form the adapter to make it work. i had to do the same on 2016 years scalpel where i had Hope X2 brakes. i rather take a little material away from the adapter, that isn't so expensive then on the brake.
    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-foto-2017-06-02-16-40-09.jpg

  25. #625
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul.coetser@gmail.com View Post
    Few issues! I wanted to collect my scalpel 2 from my lbs today. But the trs 9-46 cassette is to close to chain stay, and the chain catch the frame. We going to get an engineer to manufacture a end cap that is a bit bigger to push the cassette further away from frame. Other option is maybe rebuild rear wheel with different hub...


    Has anyone had any of these related issues?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I had same issue with trs cassette. I tried the stock czero hub and a Project 321 hub. Ended up sending cassette back. E thirteen suggested put a slight bevel or chamfer on the back side of the cassette where it hits the inside of the freehub body to see if that helped seat the cassette in. I tried that but the chain still rubbed the frame.
    I did have a brake issue but that was the rear mount was not faced parallel to the axle so I could never get the Shimano caliper to line up with the rotor.

  26. #626
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    Eagle

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  27. #627
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    [QUOTE=paul.coetser@gmail.com;13191046]
    Quote Originally Posted by norty_mtb View Post

    That is really not good! The reason why I still haven't taken delivery of my scalpel 2 is the LBS is waiting for the 9-46 trs cassette. With the little clearance I think I might end up the same as you. It will be a real disappointment to return the trs cassette as it is my solution to the same range as eagle. I do need the range for the type of riding Iam doing...

    Maybe rebuilding the rear wheel with a dt swiss 240s hub will solve the problem. But that is expensive.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I don't think it's the hub as I have tried two. It's a combo of the si frame and the trs cassette.
    Is anyone successfully running a trs 9-46 cassette on their Scalpel-si? If so, what hub?

  28. #628
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    Hi All. I read through all the pages and didn't see my question answered so here goes...

    Have any of you put a 2.6 - 3.0 on the front? What is the biggest you can fit in the back?

    Thanks!
    2015 Trek Stache 7 SS
    2015 Cannondale Bad Habit
    2015 Niner RLT

  29. #629
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aleksandrik View Post
    This year's service kits have this part made from metal! Theoretically should last much longer!
    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	52 
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    Mine also wore out. I have the new remote rebuild kit but cannot find any instructions on the rebuild procedure. Is it self explanatory once you get in there?

  30. #630
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    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-dh.jpg

    Do you guys have this problem? When tighten the rear wheel axle, it actually pulls the derailleur hanger toward the wheel side, it looks like the hanger is bent, however, I changed a new hanger on it, same situation. So, is that normal? Or we need to align it with the hanger alignment tool?

  31. #631
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    Are the hangar screws tight?

    Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

  32. #632
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    Yes! It's tight

  33. #633
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    Set the hanger with the correct tool!
    I had it on both frames and wondered why the eagle aint work properly like expected.

    Now its fine.

    Btw... new frame


    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-scalpelsi-team-race.jpg
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  34. #634
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    I've found that a substantial percentage of every new Cannondale I've purchased (road or mtb) have required derailleur hanger bolts to be tightened before riding.

    Also, a large majority of the Lefty's from the factory require an immediate bearing reset.

  35. #635
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    Quote Originally Posted by trauma-md View Post
    I've found that a substantial percentage of every new Cannondale I've purchased (road or mtb) have required derailleur hanger bolts to be tightened before riding.

    Also, a large majority of the Lefty's from the factory require an immediate bearing reset.
    Every hanger on every bike should be checked by the shop that assembles it. Checking the hanger bolts needs to be done before the hanger is checked. Not all shops do this. If you are in doubt ask them. I'm also thinking that the Scalpel-Si hanger bolt should have a little locktite on it since hanger is designed to pivot out of the way when taking wheel on and off. If not it could come loose.

  36. #636
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baltazar View Post
    i rather take a little material away from the adapter, that isn't so expensive then on the brake.
    I followed this advice and the Hope brakes are nicely centered. Thank you

  37. #637
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    Quote Originally Posted by norty_mtb View Post
    Every hanger on every bike should be checked by the shop that assembles it. Checking the hanger bolts needs to be done before the hanger is checked. Not all shops do this. If you are in doubt ask them. I'm also thinking that the Scalpel-Si hanger bolt should have a little locktite on it since hanger is designed to pivot out of the way when taking wheel on and off. If not it could come loose.
    I do all my own bike builds and this is the first thing i check.

    More specifically, Loctite 242 (blue) is the specific version that is needed on the derailleur hanger bolts.

  38. #638
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrizzzz View Post
    Set the hanger with the correct tool!
    I had it on both frames and wondered why the eagle aint work properly like expected.

    Now its fine.

    Btw... new frame


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks, I have set the hanger with ParkTool hanger alignment tool, it should be fine now. In fact, I take a look of the new stock of Scalpels in bike shop, seem all of the hangers are out of alignment from the factory. By the way, would you be able to take a pic of the rear derailleur from the rear side, like the photo I posted above, I would like to compare it. Thanks!

  39. #639
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    Quote Originally Posted by trauma-md View Post
    I've found that a substantial percentage of every new Cannondale I've purchased (road or mtb) have required derailleur hanger bolts to be tightened before riding.

    Also, a large majority of the Lefty's from the factory require an immediate bearing reset.
    Actually, my Lefty 2.0 requires bearing reset every time, to obtain full travel for the next trip.

  40. #640
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    Quote Originally Posted by scalpel226 View Post
    Actually, my Lefty 2.0 requires bearing reset every time, to obtain full travel for the next trip.
    This sometimes happens if you don't bottom out the shock enough while riding (which was my problem).

    Next time after a bearing reset, before you air up the shock, place a small piece of electrical tape on the motoguard to mark the spot that it should bottom out. Reset your rubber o-ring and go ride. Check to see if you are actually bottoming out or not. If you aren't...I have some suggestions.

  41. #641
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    Quote Originally Posted by trauma-md View Post
    This sometimes happens if you don't bottom out the shock enough while riding (which was my problem).

    Next time after a bearing reset, before you air up the shock, place a small piece of electrical tape on the motoguard to mark the spot that it should bottom out. Reset your rubber o-ring and go ride. Check to see if you are actually bottoming out or not. If you aren't...I have some suggestions.
    Does it mean too much air on my Lefty? Would like to hear your suggestions! Thanks mate!

  42. #642
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    Yes!
    90% have too much air in the Lefty
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  43. #643
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    Does the black inc have a special di2-ready rear triangle?

  44. #644
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    Good Question. Didnt see one before.
    But when i take a look @the pictures there seems to be an internal routing:
    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-173270_02_d.jpg

    Here are some 'dirty' pictures from my derailleur/hanger

    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-20170621_092003.jpg2017 Scalpel Count-Down-20170621_092016.jpg2017 Scalpel Count-Down-20170621_092043.jpg
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



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