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  1. #601
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    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-img_2389.jpg
    edited this post until i can find another scale to weigh accurately.

    Size Large built for endurance events and fun

    xtr brakes w/ Sram CenterLine X rotors
    xt di2 2x 26/36t & 10/42t
    ESI chunky grips
    Enve seatpost
    Fizik Kurve seat
    Enve M50s laced to new generation Project 321 hubs
    xtr pedals
    stock bar and stem
    Racing Ralph SS 2.25s
    2 random side load bottle cages, need to get new ones
    Hollowgram crank w/ ai spider
    Carbon Lefty 2.0
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Scalpel Count-Down-fullsizerender.jpg  

    Last edited by norty_mtb; 05-28-2017 at 06:23 AM. Reason: Need to find new scale

  2. #602
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    Quote Originally Posted by guidodg View Post
    I cannot understand how my Scalpel Si 2 Eagle L weighs 11.6kg....that is 1,5kg heavier than yours...are you sure your scale is accurate?

    Even slimming down the wheel hubs and spokes, seatpost and some small parts I would never shed 1,5kgs
    Hard to be 100% sure. I have a picture of it that i try to attach when i reach a computer (cant find the function when login with my iPhone). The picture say 1,36kg. And that was with tubes. So 200g less after picture was taken. So i lied a little, 10,16kg. But i'm pretty sure my wasnt any 11,6 kg original. But i cant find any picture of it. The scale was a parktool scale i borrowed from a friend. Not sure how accurate they are but usualy parktool dont do shitty things :-)

  3. #603
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    I have a scalpel 2 si M frame with the below parts and its 23.5 pounds
    Lefty 2.0 carbon pbr
    RS monarch RL
    easton ec70 post
    carbon railed fabric saddle
    cdale czero bars
    OPI stem and steerer
    Notubes Valors
    Racing Ralph 2.25 SS
    Guide RS brakes
    Center line X 160 rotors
    xtr pedals
    hollowgram crank w/wolftooth camo 34t oval
    XX1 eagle RD, XX1 eagle shifter
    X01 eagle cassette and chain
    no tubes

    i dont understand how your bike can be over a pound lighter

  4. #604
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    Sorry to be a sceptic but there's no way that weight is correct with that spec.

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  5. #605
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    10.9kg= 24lb 0.48
    Carbon 3 L size with xtr pedals
    furios fred tubeless,
    xx1 cassete & chain.
    36 Garbaruk direct mount chainring
    esi grips

    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-foto-kaspars-garda-seb-mtb-1_485.jpg.1000x1000_q85.jpg

  6. #606
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    no need to be sorry, that's why I noted that I want to verify weight on another scale

    Here is where I did cut weight. Did not weigh chainrings or difference in rear derailleurs.

    -189g Saddle and post
    -35g grips
    -42g rotors
    -108g brakes
    -220g on wheels
    +134g front derailluer

    -460g/1lbs

  7. #607
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    Note that the weight is without the computer mount (and computer ) and without bottle cage/tool. dont know how accurate the scale is. at the same time, weight hasn't been the the most important in the build, if so, i would have used a lighter rear hub. don't know why the mtbr engine turns the scale picture around
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2017 Scalpel Count-Down-foto-2017-03-11-09-32-05.jpg  

    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-foto-2017-03-26-19-41-34-1-.jpg  


  8. #608
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    Hi there. Just hoping to get some help here. I have a new 2017 scalpel si carbon 1, which came with the shimano freehub body and cassette. I am wanting to change to a sram xd driver and cassette (for the weight savings and extra range). I bought the new freehub body and installed it all ok, however the chain now rubs on the chainstay when in the 10 cog. When looking at the shimano cassette there is about a 1-2mm gap between the chain and chainstay. SO the question is has anyone done this and is there anything to look out for when changing the freehub body on the hub that I might have missed?? I cant find any schematics for the czero rear hub either....
    Cheers

  9. #609
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bcchris View Post
    Hi there. Just hoping to get some help here. I have a new 2017 scalpel si carbon 1, which came with the shimano freehub body and cassette. I am wanting to change to a sram xd driver and cassette (for the weight savings and extra range). I bought the new freehub body and installed it all ok, however the chain now rubs on the chainstay when in the 10 cog. When looking at the shimano cassette there is about a 1-2mm gap between the chain and chainstay. SO the question is has anyone done this and is there anything to look out for when changing the freehub body on the hub that I might have missed?? I cant find any schematics for the czero rear hub either....
    Cheers
    Did you replace the drive side end cap?

    Most hub manufacturers utilize a different drive side end cap for the XD free hubs, so that might be the reason you have contact with the chainstay. Formula, Enve, Stans and DT all include the different end cap with their conversions. I'm not sure who makes the CZero hubs...I've heard Stans or Formula.

  10. #610
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    Quote Originally Posted by trauma-md View Post
    Did you replace the drive side end cap?

    Most hub manufacturers utilize a different drive side end cap for the XD free hubs, so that might be the reason you have contact with the chainstay. Formula, Enve, Stans and DT all include the different end cap with their conversions. I'm not sure who makes the CZero hubs...I've heard Stans or Formula.
    Thanks for the reply. No I didn't replace the end cap. I bought the freehub driver kit from the local dealer and it only came with the xd driver body and a washer (which is the same size as the internal washer that the shimano freehub sits on). I've asked the dealer and they have suggested to bring it in, but they didn't think there was anything special to be done. Having put the shimano driver and cassette back on, I noticed that it also sits incredibly close to the chainstay....

  11. #611
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bcchris View Post
    Thanks for the reply. No I didn't replace the end cap. I bought the freehub driver kit from the local dealer and it only came with the xd driver body and a washer (which is the same size as the internal washer that the shimano freehub sits on). I've asked the dealer and they have suggested to bring it in, but they didn't think there was anything special to be done. Having put the shimano driver and cassette back on, I noticed that it also sits incredibly close to the chainstay....
    You need the formula XD end cap then. The freehub kit you got was a "replacement" rather than conversion.


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  12. #612
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    Thanks for that. I'll put that to the local dealer where I bought it and see what they say! Makes sense. Cheers

  13. #613
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    Quote Originally Posted by trauma-md View Post
    You need the formula XD end cap then. The freehub kit you got was a "replacement" rather than conversion.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I put the shimano freehub and cassette back on and had a look at the clearance. It actually doesn't look much different to when I had the sram on there. Maybe I just hadn't really paid attention to it.

    Attached are a couple of photos showing how close the chain is (and slightly rubs on the chainstay protector).You can see it doesn't touch the chainstay itself but it does touch the protector. Is anyone elses 2017 scalpel this close?

    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-img_6657.jpg

    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-img_6658.jpg

  14. #614
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    Yepp, on the Cannondale/ Formula Hubs its normal!

    Scalpel-Si Carbon 2 Eagle (Lefty) medium size 11.1kg
    stock - out of the box

    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-scalpelsicarbon2eagle.jpg


    FYI:
    The fullsprint lockout lever was broken. There seems to be a little plastic inside which wears out after some time.
    I used one of the service kits for the remote and repaired it.

    Works like before but i had to bleed the remote, of course.

    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-fs_einzel.jpg
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  15. #615
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    How many hours roughly it lasted?

  16. #616
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    This year's service kits have this part made from metal! Theoretically should last much longer!
    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-img_8614.jpg

  17. #617
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    [QUOTE=Bcchris;13186365]I put the shimano freehub and cassette back on and had a look at the clearance. It actually doesn't look much different to when I had the sram on there. Maybe I just hadn't really paid attention to it.

    Attached are a couple of photos showing how close the chain is (and slightly rubs on the chainstay protector).You can see it doesn't touch the chainstay itself but it does touch the protector. Is anyone elses 2017 scalpel this close?

    I tried an e thirteen trs 9-46 cassette with two different wheels and the chain touched the protector. Everything was installed correctly. I had to return the cassette. Stock sram cassette has slight bit of clearance.

  18. #618
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bcchris View Post
    I put the shimano freehub and cassette back on and had a look at the clearance. It actually doesn't look much different to when I had the sram on there. Maybe I just hadn't really paid attention to it.

    Attached are a couple of photos showing how close the chain is (and slightly rubs on the chainstay protector).You can see it doesn't touch the chainstay itself but it does touch the protector. Is anyone elses 2017 scalpel this close?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    My friend has the scalpel 2 and on his bike the clearance is the same as yours. (That comes standard with the XD driver and Sram 1180 cassette). I am concerned about that little clearance as it will cause frame rub. Iam still waiting delivery of my scalpel 2. Its been almost 4 weeks now.


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    Last edited by paul.coetser@gmail.com; 05-31-2017 at 06:19 PM.

  19. #619
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    [QUOTE=norty_mtb;13190521]
    Quote Originally Posted by Bcchris View Post

    I tried an e thirteen trs 9-46 cassette with two different wheels and the chain touched the protector. Everything was installed correctly. I had to return the cassette. Stock sram cassette has slight bit of clearance.
    That is really not good! The reason why I still haven't taken delivery of my scalpel 2 is the LBS is waiting for the 9-46 trs cassette. With the little clearance I think I might end up the same as you. It will be a real disappointment to return the trs cassette as it is my solution to the same range as eagle. I do need the range for the type of riding Iam doing...

    Maybe rebuilding the rear wheel with a dt swiss 240s hub will solve the problem. But that is expensive.


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  20. #620
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aleksandrik View Post
    This year's service kits have this part made from metal! Theoretically should last much longer!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yepp thanks.
    Already installed and works again.
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  21. #621
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baltazar View Post
    Note that the weight is without the computer mount (and computer ) and without bottle cage/tool. dont know how accurate the scale is. at the same time, weight hasn't been the the most important in the build, if so, i would have used a lighter rear hub. don't know why the mtbr engine turns the scale picture around
    Can you please pick a shade of orange and stick to it? I'm sorry, but it looks awful.
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  22. #622
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    Can you please pick a shade of orange and stick to it? I'm sorry, but it looks awful.
    Haha sorry but its not as bad as it looks. Take a photo of tune orange and it looks as gold colors. Looks better irl. But at the same time, maby we have diffrent taste. I like it and its my bike ;-)

  23. #623
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    Few issues! I wanted to collect my scalpel 2 from my lbs today. But the trs 9-46 cassette is to close to chain stay, and the chain catch the frame. We going to get an engineer to manufacture a end cap that is a bit bigger to push the cassette further away from frame. Other option is maybe rebuild rear wheel with different hub...

    Second issue, changed to hope x2 brakes but the lbs cant get the front wheel to rotate without heavy rotor resistance. We are also thinking of drill the caliber hole a little wider, so we can slide the hope caliber 1 mm extra. That is all we need to be able to get the wheel to spin freely. The caliber is already on its max movement but we need a little bit extra.

    Ive also had issues with the hope master cylinder, which was already replaced. Not a good start to hope brakes...

    Has anyone had any of these related issues?


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  24. #624
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    This is how it looked on my from the start. it looked the same with my onyx hub. i contacted onyx and they told me to take some measures on how long it was from the end of the cassette to the end of hub axle and it was well under the limits sram has given for the XD standard. so it looks as it is cannonade that have made a frame that hangs over the hub.
    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-foto-2017-05-26-09-39-48.jpg


    Onyx did make a new endcap for me, so it would work better.
    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-foto-2017-05-26-16-59-45.jpg

    about the brake, i have changed to sram level and had to take some material away form the adapter to make it work. i had to do the same on 2016 years scalpel where i had Hope X2 brakes. i rather take a little material away from the adapter, that isn't so expensive then on the brake.
    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-foto-2017-06-02-16-40-09.jpg

  25. #625
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul.coetser@gmail.com View Post
    Few issues! I wanted to collect my scalpel 2 from my lbs today. But the trs 9-46 cassette is to close to chain stay, and the chain catch the frame. We going to get an engineer to manufacture a end cap that is a bit bigger to push the cassette further away from frame. Other option is maybe rebuild rear wheel with different hub...


    Has anyone had any of these related issues?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I had same issue with trs cassette. I tried the stock czero hub and a Project 321 hub. Ended up sending cassette back. E thirteen suggested put a slight bevel or chamfer on the back side of the cassette where it hits the inside of the freehub body to see if that helped seat the cassette in. I tried that but the chain still rubbed the frame.
    I did have a brake issue but that was the rear mount was not faced parallel to the axle so I could never get the Shimano caliper to line up with the rotor.

  26. #626
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    Eagle

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  27. #627
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    [QUOTE=paul.coetser@gmail.com;13191046]
    Quote Originally Posted by norty_mtb View Post

    That is really not good! The reason why I still haven't taken delivery of my scalpel 2 is the LBS is waiting for the 9-46 trs cassette. With the little clearance I think I might end up the same as you. It will be a real disappointment to return the trs cassette as it is my solution to the same range as eagle. I do need the range for the type of riding Iam doing...

    Maybe rebuilding the rear wheel with a dt swiss 240s hub will solve the problem. But that is expensive.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I don't think it's the hub as I have tried two. It's a combo of the si frame and the trs cassette.
    Is anyone successfully running a trs 9-46 cassette on their Scalpel-si? If so, what hub?

  28. #628
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    Hi All. I read through all the pages and didn't see my question answered so here goes...

    Have any of you put a 2.6 - 3.0 on the front? What is the biggest you can fit in the back?

    Thanks!
    2015 Trek Stache 7 SS
    2015 Cannondale Bad Habit
    2015 Niner RLT

  29. #629
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aleksandrik View Post
    This year's service kits have this part made from metal! Theoretically should last much longer!
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Mine also wore out. I have the new remote rebuild kit but cannot find any instructions on the rebuild procedure. Is it self explanatory once you get in there?

  30. #630
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    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-dh.jpg

    Do you guys have this problem? When tighten the rear wheel axle, it actually pulls the derailleur hanger toward the wheel side, it looks like the hanger is bent, however, I changed a new hanger on it, same situation. So, is that normal? Or we need to align it with the hanger alignment tool?

  31. #631
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    Are the hangar screws tight?

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  32. #632
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    Yes! It's tight

  33. #633
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    Set the hanger with the correct tool!
    I had it on both frames and wondered why the eagle aint work properly like expected.

    Now its fine.

    Btw... new frame


    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-scalpelsi-team-race.jpg
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  34. #634
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    I've found that a substantial percentage of every new Cannondale I've purchased (road or mtb) have required derailleur hanger bolts to be tightened before riding.

    Also, a large majority of the Lefty's from the factory require an immediate bearing reset.

  35. #635
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    Quote Originally Posted by trauma-md View Post
    I've found that a substantial percentage of every new Cannondale I've purchased (road or mtb) have required derailleur hanger bolts to be tightened before riding.

    Also, a large majority of the Lefty's from the factory require an immediate bearing reset.
    Every hanger on every bike should be checked by the shop that assembles it. Checking the hanger bolts needs to be done before the hanger is checked. Not all shops do this. If you are in doubt ask them. I'm also thinking that the Scalpel-Si hanger bolt should have a little locktite on it since hanger is designed to pivot out of the way when taking wheel on and off. If not it could come loose.

  36. #636
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baltazar View Post
    i rather take a little material away from the adapter, that isn't so expensive then on the brake.
    I followed this advice and the Hope brakes are nicely centered. Thank you

  37. #637
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    Quote Originally Posted by norty_mtb View Post
    Every hanger on every bike should be checked by the shop that assembles it. Checking the hanger bolts needs to be done before the hanger is checked. Not all shops do this. If you are in doubt ask them. I'm also thinking that the Scalpel-Si hanger bolt should have a little locktite on it since hanger is designed to pivot out of the way when taking wheel on and off. If not it could come loose.
    I do all my own bike builds and this is the first thing i check.

    More specifically, Loctite 242 (blue) is the specific version that is needed on the derailleur hanger bolts.

  38. #638
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrizzzz View Post
    Set the hanger with the correct tool!
    I had it on both frames and wondered why the eagle aint work properly like expected.

    Now its fine.

    Btw... new frame


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks, I have set the hanger with ParkTool hanger alignment tool, it should be fine now. In fact, I take a look of the new stock of Scalpels in bike shop, seem all of the hangers are out of alignment from the factory. By the way, would you be able to take a pic of the rear derailleur from the rear side, like the photo I posted above, I would like to compare it. Thanks!

  39. #639
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    Quote Originally Posted by trauma-md View Post
    I've found that a substantial percentage of every new Cannondale I've purchased (road or mtb) have required derailleur hanger bolts to be tightened before riding.

    Also, a large majority of the Lefty's from the factory require an immediate bearing reset.
    Actually, my Lefty 2.0 requires bearing reset every time, to obtain full travel for the next trip.

  40. #640
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    Quote Originally Posted by scalpel226 View Post
    Actually, my Lefty 2.0 requires bearing reset every time, to obtain full travel for the next trip.
    This sometimes happens if you don't bottom out the shock enough while riding (which was my problem).

    Next time after a bearing reset, before you air up the shock, place a small piece of electrical tape on the motoguard to mark the spot that it should bottom out. Reset your rubber o-ring and go ride. Check to see if you are actually bottoming out or not. If you aren't...I have some suggestions.

  41. #641
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    Quote Originally Posted by trauma-md View Post
    This sometimes happens if you don't bottom out the shock enough while riding (which was my problem).

    Next time after a bearing reset, before you air up the shock, place a small piece of electrical tape on the motoguard to mark the spot that it should bottom out. Reset your rubber o-ring and go ride. Check to see if you are actually bottoming out or not. If you aren't...I have some suggestions.
    Does it mean too much air on my Lefty? Would like to hear your suggestions! Thanks mate!

  42. #642
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    Yes!
    90% have too much air in the Lefty
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  43. #643
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    Does the black inc have a special di2-ready rear triangle?

  44. #644
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    Good Question. Didnt see one before.
    But when i take a look @the pictures there seems to be an internal routing:
    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-173270_02_d.jpg

    Here are some 'dirty' pictures from my derailleur/hanger

    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-20170621_092003.jpg2017 Scalpel Count-Down-20170621_092016.jpg2017 Scalpel Count-Down-20170621_092043.jpg
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  45. #645
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    Si Crank plastic preload spacers installation

    Just wonder how many spacers should I add to the non drive side, as the original factory built was 3 spacers installed on the Scalpel Si. I found that it's a bit tight and made the wave washer flattened, so that the crank didn't spin freely, it seems that I have to remove all 3 plastic spacers. How many spacers do you guys added?

  46. #646
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    Quote Originally Posted by scalpel226 View Post
    Just wonder how many spacers should I add to the non drive side, as the original factory built was 3 spacers installed on the Scalpel Si. I found that it's a bit tight and made the wave washer flattened, so that the crank didn't spin freely, it seems that I have to remove all 3 plastic spacers. How many spacers do you guys added?
    There's no true specific number of spacers.

    You want just enough (or none) to only slightly deform the wave washer.

  47. #647
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    where do you get the service kits from? Online, LBS? I cant seem to find them anywhere. I'm on my 3rd one this year and its about to go too.

  48. #648
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    Has anyone replaced the Eagle Crank with a Quarq PM? Issues/tips?

  49. #649
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    Buy the non-boost version.

    Only install the drive side crankarm/quarq spider.

    You need to use your original Eagle non-drive arm which is attached to a longer BB30A-83/Ai offset specific axle.

  50. #650
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    Really loving this bike. Best bike i have owned!


  51. #651
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    Quote Originally Posted by rupps5 View Post
    Really loving this bike. Best bike i have owned!

    there goes your warranty

  52. #652
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    Anyone running a dropper post on their scalpel? It so what do you recommend? I quite like the fox transfer..


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  53. #653
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    I went for the Magura Vyron, just because Im taking the post on and off often.

    For a permanent solution I think Fox Transfer is a excellent choice(based on reviews).

  54. #654
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul.coetser@gmail.com View Post
    Anyone running a dropper post on their scalpel? It so what do you recommend? I quite like the fox transfer..


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Running a KS Lev Carbon Ci Integra remote dropper post....one of the lightest out there
    Last edited by guidodg; 07-04-2017 at 07:50 AM.

  55. #655
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    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-img_4102.jpg

    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-img_4095.jpg

  56. #656
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    Maximum weight limit for scalpel is 136 kg by owners manual.
    ok ,i'm 78kg but the rear rim crst mk3 has 19 cracks from 28 in the spoke holes.
    Is it normal wear?
    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-dsc_0001.jpg2017 Scalpel Count-Down-dsc_0002.jpg

  57. #657
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    Cannodnale's rider weight limit refers to the frame.

    Crest Mk3 rims have a max rider weight of 190lbs I believe. So you're under that. Note that they list 'rider' not 'rider+bike' which makes a difference for you to be under or over the limit.

    Crest Mk3 rims have a two year warranty. So I'd say you're entitled to a warranty replacement. The wheels may have been built with too high spoke tension. In that case NoTubes may decline the warranty and Cannondale needs to make it right for you. Unless someone that doesn't know what they're doing has played with spoke tension, then you're going to be out of pocket.

  58. #658
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    2017 Scalpel Count-Down

    Mine did the same. Front and rear. Stans are sending new rims. Im 71kg.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  59. #659
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    Hi

    I own a Scalpel Si 2017 Race with XTR gears and would like to change the cassette (only the cassette) to XX1. Will a standard DT Swiss XD driver fit the 350 rear hub on a Scalpel or do I need something else because of the AI rear wheel? (The stardard one is this one https://www.bike24.com/p252677.html)

  60. #660
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    Which 36t direct mount chainring works on the hollowgram crank? It does not look like there is much room for one

  61. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by CRANK! View Post
    Which 36t direct mount chainring works on the hollowgram crank? It does not look like there is much room for one
    Garbaruk makes Ai offset direct mount in round and oval. Im running the oval, no problem.

    Cannondale Hollowgram Oval (Ai-compatible) - Garbaruk Lightweight Components

  62. #662
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoranH View Post
    Hi

    I own a Scalpel Si 2017 Race with XTR gears and would like to change the cassette (only the cassette) to XX1. Will a standard DT Swiss XD driver fit the 350 rear hub on a Scalpel or do I need something else because of the AI rear wheel? (The stardard one is this one https://www.bike24.com/p252677.html)

    No the freehub body should swap out without anything special needed. The Ai wheel is just dished differently, the hub is not any different than any other.

  63. #663
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baltazar View Post
    Haha sorry but its not as bad as it looks. Take a photo of tune orange and it looks as gold colors. Looks better irl. But at the same time, maby we have diffrent taste. I like it and its my bike ;-)
    I'll have to take your word for it... But yeah, you're right. It's your bike, so you can do what you like and I should shut up. I can't help it, my OCD gets the better of me sometimes hahah!

    Quote Originally Posted by Chrizzzz View Post
    Set the hanger with the correct tool!
    I had it on both frames and wondered why the eagle aint work properly like expected.

    Now its fine.

    Btw... new frame


    Click image for larger version. 

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    How has no one mentioned your rim decals? They're chrome and green right? Where can I get these? I need these in my life... like now.... lol!
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  64. #664
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    Yep

    I should swap the declas on the fork, too.
    But i think at the end of the year could come a new one.


    Enve M series - M50 fifty - adesivi personalizzati per cerchi mtb

    He is doing what you want. Creates your own style/graphic.
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  65. #665
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    About two months ago I picked up a beautiful 2017 Scalpel Si 1 and I have about 500 miles on it now. Just last night i had it on a stand, giving it a deeper clean than usual after a dusty ride, and I noticed that the rear brake hose is literally lacerating the carbon fiber bottom bracket shell. Like, there is a 2mm deep channel rubbed through the bright red paint and into the black carbon fiber material. No pictures at the moment.

    Has anybody had this happen? Any recourse with Cannondale you're aware of?

  66. #666
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    There's supposed to be a plastic guide fitted or did they drop that feature?

    Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

  67. #667
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad View Post
    There's supposed to be a plastic guide fitted or did they drop that feature?

    Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
    On the Scalepl 29 frame there were those annoying little plastic guides that would come loose frequently. Now with the internal routing there is no guide. There is also no real rock guard on the down-tube/BB shell, although there is a thin, transparent plastic material glued to the underside of the downtube forward of the BB. I'm not that worried about the bb shell as it seems modern carbon MTB frames are indestructible, but it definitely looks like the brake hose could rub deeper and deeper into the shell until the integrity--nevermind the resale value--is compromised.

  68. #668
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    Ah got it!

    Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

  69. #669
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    So you mean, that the cable is to close to the shell?
    That should not happen. There should be a 'light' Slope of both the braking and shifting hose.

    this slope works perfect:

    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-2017-cannondale-scalpel-si-full-suspension-xc-mountain-bike32.jpg2017 Scalpel Count-Down-a04j0369.jpg
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  70. #670
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    Yup, for sure, there was not enough hose length built into the system during assembly.

    Quote Originally Posted by Chrizzzz View Post
    So you mean, that the cable is to close to the shell?
    That should not happen. There should be a 'light' Slope of both the braking and shifting hose.

    this slope works perfect:

    Click image for larger version. 

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  71. #671
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    Let the air out of your shock and bottom it out to set the hose and cable housing lengths under the BB. Otherwise you run the risk of not leaving enough length for full travel or making it longer than necessary. I've done this for years on Scott and Specialized bikes with the same routing.
    Keep the Country country.

  72. #672
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    Little Update for 2018:
    Internal routing for the rear derailleur


    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-4a128696fa92460a92320bd91a4a7894.jpg2017 Scalpel Count-Down-img_0598.jpg
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  73. #673
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    Now I want to replace my rear triangle to get that (+upgrade to Di2)

  74. #674
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    Quote Originally Posted by TurboKoo View Post
    Now I want to replace my rear triangle to get that (+upgrade to Di2)
    drill anyone??

  75. #675
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrizzzz View Post
    Little Update for 2018:
    Internal routing for the rear derailleur


    Click image for larger version. 

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    It seems like the new internal routing is good for Di2, but not perfect for Sram Eagle derailleur? Strange bending angle for the hose.

  76. #676
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    Quote Originally Posted by guidodg View Post
    drill anyone??
    I'm way too hesitant to drill flex stays.

  77. #677
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    I think that internal routing judging by the rubber grommet is exclusively for an electrical Di2 connection and not a mechanical cable

  78. #678
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    Stem/Steerer???

    Hello all, looking above at the pic posted by Scalpel226 as well as other pictures that are easily goggled, does anyone have an idea on what kind of stem and steer tube is being used on the CFR bikes? Is this the way that C'dale is going for production bikes? I would think it's lighter and would offer consumers more options on upgrades but it kinda flies in the face of their Si marketing. Any info/thoughts??

  79. #679
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    Yes, we think:

    Darimo Lefty Head Tube – Darimo Carbon
    = Darima Carbon Steerer from Spain and Extralite Stem
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  80. #680
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    Quote Originally Posted by guidodg View Post
    I think that internal routing judging by the rubber grommet is exclusively for an electrical Di2 connection and not a mechanical cable
    But CFR is riding this stuff mechanical
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  81. #681
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrizzzz View Post
    But CFR is riding this stuff mechanical
    Mechanical is internally routed as full length housing, much like the Rush was.

  82. #682
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    Thanks!

  83. #683
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrizzzz View Post
    Yes, we think:

    Darimo Lefty Head Tube – Darimo Carbon
    = Darima Carbon Steerer from Spain and Extralite Stem
    Are you sure? Darimo are Open with a big hole under the tube. I think i have seen picture with a smal hole under, as on mcfk tubes. But basicly the same construction

  84. #684
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    They had different ones.
    But yeah, you can choose both.
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  85. #685
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    Just have a Garbaruk 34T Oval ring installed on the Si crank, seems like the chain line moving outward a bit than before, is that normal with that gap from the pic?

    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-si-ring.2.jpg

  86. #686
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    Yes,

    FAQ
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  87. #687
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    Full sprint remote failed

    The original one not working, then replaced by Rockshox, worked for 2 months, then failed again, seems the plastic ring inside was broken, replaced with new metal parts, but it doesn't work after re-bleed......really annoying....is there any special technique for replacing the parts or bleeding?

  88. #688
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    Maybe the direction of the metalpart is not correct. turn it and re-install all correctly. I had the the same problem after installing the metal-part.

    Bleeding is always the same. but be sure the lockout is all the way out when dismounting from the connectamajig damper connection.
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  89. #689
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrizzzz View Post
    Maybe the direction of the metalpart is not correct. turn it and re-install all correctly. I had the the same problem after installing the metal-part.

    Bleeding is always the same. but be sure the lockout is all the way out when dismounting from the connectamajig damper connection.
    Yes, that's exactly the case! The new metal ring is directional, turn it another way round. It's working now, thanks for the great tips!

  90. #690
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    Cool, you're welcome
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  91. #691
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    Does anyone know what the dimensions (eye to eye and stroke) of the rear shock is on the Scalpel 2017, and if anyone managed to fit a Fox-rear shock on it. I really like the frame but have a idea of running it with Fox both rear and front. I had the Monarch on my old bike and had so much problems with bleeding it and when it fails it goes to locked position, ruined two races for me.

    Even if it is possible it looks really tight to get the rear Fox remote cable to fit. Any toughts?

  92. #692
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    Any short-ish people(169cm, 5'6.5 with 67.5 saddle height) able to fit well on a Scalpel Si Medium ? Without going to the small 27.5.

  93. #693
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelzqc View Post
    Any short-ish people(169cm, 5'6.5 with 67.5 saddle height) able to fit well on a Scalpel Si Medium ? Without going to the small 27.5.
    I think an M should fit you perfectly

  94. #694
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    Thanks for the opinion. I'm thinking most probably a 60cm stem, slammed. At that saddle height. It would be just about how the bike feels under me.

  95. #695
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    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-fullsizerender.jpg
    You mean like this?

  96. #696
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    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-img_5193.jpg

  97. #697
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    2017 Scalpel Count-Down-fullsizerender.jpg
    So I decided to update my 2017 SI2
    I like the 2018 colors with the neon green but the slate grey was a little dull for me so I added a bit of sparkle

  98. #698
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    Quote Originally Posted by chillie View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    So I decided to update my 2017 SI2
    I like the 2018 colors with the neon green but the slate grey was a little dull for me so I added a bit of sparkle
    Looks awesome. Who did you have do this?

  99. #699
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    Quote Originally Posted by chillie View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    You mean like this?
    Was the standard non-Evol air can an option or are they only selling shocks with the large negative volume can these days?
    Keep the Country country.

  100. #700
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    A good friend of mine,he's on instagram
    Bogus_designs
    Just to clarify on the rear shock.Most of top marathon racers in my area have done this.
    You don't have to have the evol shock,some are using the older float but the new evol changes an already great bike to fantastic.The dimensions I posted for the shock are not 100% to the stock one but it is the closest you can get and won't notice any difference when riding.
    No one is using manual lockout with the conversion.
    I've seen on another light build someone used the ultra light DT Swiss shock and was using a bar lockout for that.
    Hope this helps.
    Chillie

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