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  1. #1
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    2013 Scalpel 1 XX Rear Shock - Tips?

    Rocking the new scalpel 29er. Nice bike so far, but have a question on the rear shock. I was under the assumption the remote lockout would engage a full lockout on the rear shock. It seems to me it just makes for a firmer platform....

    Does anyone else have this problem/observation or am i off base? Also, if you did something different to make for a much firmer, almost rigid rear, let me know. Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Mine is a lock that's not quite full. I've only test ridden a bike with the pro pedal switch (whatever it's called) and that seemed to be softer than the lockout on the scalpel 1.

    I haven't played with pressures yet but did you try more?

  3. #3
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    I've definitely noticed the same. I thought it would lock firm like the front. I was actually planning to call SRAM/rockshox this week. I'll report back after I talk to tech support.

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    Ok...I sent cannondale an email as well since I couldn't find one for SRAM. Let's keep posted on what we hear. Maybe that's normal, but I, like you, thought it would be real firm like the lockout on the lefty. I've noticed the front has a blow off threshold as well, but it's much higher/firmer.

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    From C'Dale. They are always quick to respond! I'm definitely impressed with them over the past couple years.

    The Monarch shock does not 100% lock out. When engaging the lever there should be a noticeable platform that will resist pedal bob but when the wheel hits something hard enough the platform will blow-off & absorb the hit. We don't spec/ design anything these days with 100% lockout. The platform is enough to make climbing efficient and the blow off is nice if you forgot to unlock your suspension when you go back down the hill.

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    I have a '13 Scalpel 2 and I was wondering the same thing. Also does anyone know what the 3 different lever positions represent on the monarch. I've searched Rock Shox' site and the old Interweb to no avail. A set-up manual for the rear shock seems to be non existent.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RyderX View Post
    I have a '13 Scalpel 2 and I was wondering the same thing. Also does anyone know what the 3 different lever positions represent on the monarch. I've searched Rock Shox' site and the old Interweb to no avail. A set-up manual for the rear shock seems to be non existent.
    Look under the shock body, the decal shows the lever positions indicating lockout, platform and unlocked.

  8. #8
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    Hmm, I have a 2013 Scalpel 2 and my rear shock only has 2 positions; platform and unlocked. If I remember correctly, the only writing on the underside of the shock body is in reference to the rebound adjust. Maybe the OEM only has 2 positions?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by suffer fest View Post
    Hmm, I have a 2013 Scalpel 2 and my rear shock only has 2 positions; platform and unlocked. If I remember correctly, the only writing on the underside of the shock body is in reference to the rebound adjust. Maybe the OEM only has 2 positions?
    I thought he same thing at first but it does in fact have three positions. Unlike the Fox shocks that have a 120 degree arc, the Monarch shock has a 360 arc with detents every 120 degrees. If you look on the shock body a bit below the switch you'll see the three position marking.
    2014 Seven Ti geared bike (in the womb!)
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildh View Post

    The Monarch shock does not 100% lock out. When engaging the lever there should be a noticeable platform that will resist pedal bob but when the wheel hits something hard enough the platform will blow-off & absorb the hit. We don't spec/ design anything these days with 100% lockout. The platform is enough to make climbing efficient and the blow off is nice if you forgot to unlock your suspension when you go back down the hill.
    That is right. It is more of platform than as lockout which some online reviews say it locks like the forks do. Nope. But on mine it is ever so slight of a difference. I did notice that when I push the xloc out to release it to the lock position that the button barely moves out. Rockshox tech said a bleed would help and that it sounds like there is air in the line from the factory. I have a bleed kit on order and post if it makes a difference.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fueledbymetal View Post
    I thought he same thing at first but it does in fact have three positions. Unlike the Fox shocks that have a 120 degree arc, the Monarch shock has a 360 arc with detents every 120 degrees. If you look on the shock body a bit below the switch you'll see the three position marking.
    Super helpful. Thanks!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by norty_mtb View Post
    That is right. It is more of platform than as lockout which some online reviews say it locks like the forks do. Nope. But on mine it is ever so slight of a difference. I did notice that when I push the xloc out to release it to the lock position that the button barely moves out. Rockshox tech said a bleed would help and that it sounds like there is air in the line from the factory. I have a bleed kit on order and post if it makes a difference.
    Please do! I've noticed the same on mine and it'd be nice to know if it actually makes a difference vs having to actually go the hassell of bleeding it out.

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    Got the kit this afternoon and bleeding it is a breeze. Did not get a chance to ride, but it seems a little better just bouncing my weight on the saddle on the shop floor. Still not a full lock out like a fork with an xloc but similar to the pro pedal on the 2012 Scalpel 29er. At least now I can see the difference when the xloc push button is in or out now that I bled and shortened the cable.
    Would love to have a full lockout and still am not sold on the xx monarch but I really haven't had much trail time on it with our mid-west weather. Problem is we read reviews on the internet, which maybe two or three, for the xx monarch and we expect full rigid when engaged. As Rockshox and Cannondale will tell you the lockout is meant to stiffen up the platform not to lock out like a rigid with a blow out for large hits like most of thought.

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    Do you have a link to the kit?

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    Nevermind....I found a good kit off of bleedbicycles.com! They seem to have some nice stuff. Also ordered Shimano brake kit as well. For those interested they also have ti rotor bolts for 10 bucks. That's pretty good for ti bolts.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildh View Post
    Nevermind....I found a good kit off of bleedbicycles.com! They seem to have some nice stuff. Also ordered Shimano brake kit as well. For those interested they also have ti rotor bolts for 10 bucks. That's pretty good for ti bolts.
    Make sure you get the Reverb bleed kit and if you shorten the hose you'll need the avid brake compression fitting and barb

  17. #17
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    Was out riding yesterday and noticed my xloc remote wasn't working so figured it needed a bleed. Looking at the shock I noticed a lot of oil coming out of the junction between banjo fitting and rebound adjustment assembly. Fiddling with it a bit, there's a lot of play on the xlock banjo assembly and oil (from the hose) must be just seeping out of the area....almost like they forgot seals!!! It's a bit irritating considering I haven't even ridden the damn bike offroad yet (only gravel rides as we're still waiting for the snow to melt). It's under warranty some I'm sure they'll fix/replace it, but I have no idea on how damn long it'll be out of service.

    Anyway, wondering if anyone else has had a problem like this and if there's an easy fix. I'm planning on racing in a couple weeks and could use a reliable remote and rear shock.

    ***Update***
    Think i got it fixed. Took the rebound assembly apart and banjo off. It almost looks like they spec'd it with too small of o rings so I went to the local hardware store and bought a variety of them and found a few that were just ever so much bigger. Reassembled and rebled the system. Seems to be working great now. Bleeding the xloc system is a bit finicky, but if you do it right, it makes a big difference. After I got a solid air free bleed, I realized that the factory bleeds on these are subpar at best so I redid the front xloc as well. Big Big Big difference. Know I can definitely tell when it's engaged and not engaged!

    Hopefully it holds the seal better.
    Last edited by wildh; 04-21-2013 at 06:40 PM.

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