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  1. #1
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    2012 Flash2 29er -30% or wait for 2013 F29 2?

    Hi folks, noob alert here :

    I'm considering purchasing a new 2012 Flash2 29er Alloy at a decent price, over 30% off 'LIST' compared to a 2013 F29 2.

    Is it worth holding out for the 2013 to come down in price or secondhand? I gather the 2012 and 2013 frames are the same?

    Are the 2013 new Lefty forks significantly better? As a noob I'm after something more maintenance free/reliable than to fiddle with/high performance.

    Are the Sun Ringle rims , hubs etc etc on the 2102 any good? Are the different spec wheels on the 2013 significantly better etc? Can you go Stans/tubeless on either with ease.

    Any other differences worth bearing in mind, are the weights of the 12 and 13 models virtually the same? Quality of other components, like brakes?

    Are the poor grips and over wide handlebar issues on the 12, better on the 13?

    nb. I 'm looking to do Long dist non technical XC races eg 100 mile.

    Also I'm 5'9" with a longish back relative to my legs, I'm assuming the medium size will suit me.

    cheers folks

  2. #2
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    I've got a '12 Flash 29er. I can't comment on the '13 Lefty, but I've been very happy with mine, and no real maintenance issues (i've done a bearing reset once since last winter). Sun rims/wheels on mine have been great. I like SRAM components, and have been pretty happy with the drivetrain overall. I swapped out the OEM tires for Conti Race King 2.2's, very happy with these. Also swapped out grips for Ergon, also very happy with the upgrade. I'm 5'8", 30" inseam, Med fits really well. I'd suggest getting a '12 and putting the money you save into upgrades!

  3. #3
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    At 30% off I would go with the 12. I have a 13 model and love the new Lefty, but it is not 30% better.

  4. #4
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    2012 vs 2013.

    I agree that the 12 sounds like a better deal but there a few things to consider.

    First the wheels. If the wheels are the sun ringle Equlizers like what came on my 2012 carbon 3 they are not tubeless compatible. There have been threads on the topic on this forum if you do a search. I would not suggest trying it because there have been reports of the tires blowing off the rim which is really unsafe. If you want to run tubes there is nothing wrong with the wheelset, but its still very heavy.; You could use the money you save on the 12 bike to upgrade to a lighter wheelset like a stans crest for around 600 dollars. The Crest wheels will knock 1.5 to 2 lbs off the bike and make it a much faster machine then the 13 2 in stock trim. You will notice the difference in the wheels over a 100 mile gravel grinder and it will be worth the money. The WTB rims on the 13 work well tubeless.

    Second Size. Make sure you test ride a flash in M and L. I am 5'9 and ride a large with a 90mm stem and the fit is so much better then my previous M frame bikes. To me the Cannondale Flash feels a little smaller then other bikes I rode.

    Third, Carbon vs Alu. For long rides the Carbon Frame is going to give you alot more comfort. Esp if you get a save post. You could get a save post for an alloy frame and maybe get some of the same benifit. Just make sure you consder all the options. I got a 2012 Carbon 3 for 2000 ish and upgraded to stans wheels. The bike is 22 lbs with pedals and cages and is a perfect gravel grinder machine. A 2012 Carbon 2 already has stans wheels and a save post but also quite a bit more cash.
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  5. #5
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    some good info so far, thanks folks

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedalfaraway View Post
    You could use the money you save on the 12 bike to upgrade to a lighter wheelset like a stans crest for around 600 dollars. The Crest wheels will knock 1.5 to 2 lbs off the bike and make it a much faster machine then the 13 2 in stock trim.
    This.

    I bought an '11 RZ 120 at a big discount as the '12's were coming out. With the money saved, I swapped out the OE wheels/tires for some uber-lightweight tubelessness. Instantly transformed the bike into a flyweight speed demon.

    I highly reccomend it.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

  7. #7
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    Medium. 2013, because of better fork. Is what I think.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott In MD View Post
    Medium. 2013, because of better fork. Is what I think.
    I dont know enough about the '13 Lefty to weigh-in intelligently from that persepctive, but I will attempt to do so anyway. LOL.

    Other than the different aesthetics, I understand the new fork requires few or no bearing resets (a 3 min. procedure w/ the '12 fork). Any other advantages? Seems like the incorporation of bushings/seals may be disadvantageous - at least that's what C'dale had been preaching for the past decade. And then you have the first year of a new design - with the inherent risk of teething issues that comes w/ being a new design.

    IMHO, that new fork would have to be a dramatic upgrade compared to the '12 version in order for it to trump a lightweight tubeless tire/wheelset.
    Last edited by Stumpjumpy; 11-15-2012 at 09:06 PM.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

  9. #9
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    Firstly, forget buying a second hand Cannondale. One of the best things about buying a Cannondale is the life time warranty on the frame.

    Yes, the '13 fork IS better than the 2012 fork but I think for what you're using it for, you probably won't even notice. Get the 12 and save yourself some money. Do test ride it as the Flash geometry is a little off. My Flash is slightly too small for me, but I like a smaller frame so it's okay
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  10. #10
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    Second hand???

    I thought we were talking about a new 2012 vs a new 2013.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedalfaraway View Post
    I thought we were talking about a new 2012 vs a new 2013.
    Read the first post properly
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    Read the first post properly
    I don't get what you are talking about?

    I'm considering purchasing a new 2012 Flash2 29er Alloy at a decent price, over 30% off 'LIST' compared to a 2013 F29 2.

    Its new VS new, what am I missing.

    I like I do not have to re-set the bearings on the new Lefty. My 2012 had to re-set every 3rd ride. Sent it back to C-dale under warranty and when it came back still had to re-set every 3rd ride.

  13. #13
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    At 30% I'd get the 2012 aswell and swap out whatever doesn't fit me or my style of riding. At that discount, parting out the '12 lefty and getting a '13 will still save you money.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spinning Lizard View Post
    I like I do not have to re-set the bearings on the new Lefty. My 2012 had to re-set every 3rd ride. Sent it back to C-dale under warranty and when it came back still had to re-set every 3rd ride.
    I'm a complete numpT and technically incompetent,so a high maintenance 2012 fork is not appealing to me. Is it idiot proof to reset the bearings? How much fiddling around is required, or special tools etc. Is it dead easy after you've done it the first time. I AM useless tho

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by toyota_crown View Post
    I'm a complete numpT and technically incompetent,so a high maintenance 2012 fork is not appealing to me. Is it idiot proof to reset the bearings? How much fiddling around is required, or special tools etc. Is it dead easy after you've done it the first time. I AM useless tho
    It is really simple. Takes about 5 minutes and you only need a Shimano BB wrench. I still prefer the Lefty over any other fork. So far my new 2013 Lefty has been awesome.

  16. #16
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    cheers SL. What is the symptom that your bearings need to be reset. will it eventually be catastrophic failure or just a non-preferred level of damping/tuning??

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by toyota_crown View Post
    cheers SL. What is the symptom that your bearings need to be reset. will it eventually be catastrophic failure or just a non-preferred level of damping/tuning??
    You can ride it all day without re-setting the bearings. As they migrate you lose travel. You could go from 90mm to say 70mm. It also lowers the the front end by that much.

  18. #18
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    I am also in the same situation. I had leftys before and always had the problem, especially on my scalpel. I'm ready to pull the trigger on a 12 with a greatly reduced price. I have friends that it rarely needs to be reset. What makes it happen more often for some people than others?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Golddr2000 View Post
    I am also in the same situation. I had leftys before and always had the problem, especially on my scalpel. I'm ready to pull the trigger on a 12 with a greatly reduced price. I have friends that it rarely needs to be reset. What makes it happen more often for some people than others?
    It is a crap shoot. Depends how tight the tolerance is when your particular Lefty was made.

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