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  1. #1
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    2011 Cannondale website is up !!!!

    Am I really the first person to report this ???


    Why did they not put all the goodies on the Flash carbon 29er ???

  2. #2
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    No, you're not the first...

    The top end Flash 29er is pretty well speced. Sure it could be even better but then it would cost more too, they probably had a price range they aimed for. Plus, what fun is a bike if it's already speced exactly as you want it?

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  3. #3
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    That Claymore looks like it might be what i want. Now is the Claymore a freeride bike? I need a bike to go to Northstar and to ride a few other places.

  4. #4
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    I just picked up my 2011 Trail SL2, wow was I surprised with the new look! So far I absolutely love this bike, the Rock Shock Recon is a huge improvement over the RST I rode on the 2010 demo bike.

    Clydesdale: 315lbs (July 2010) now down 35 lbs on my journey from obese to triathlete...

    http://iambigtuna.blogspot.com/

  5. #5
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    No more Moto? Wow that was short lived. I demo'd a carbon Moto for a few days last year. Super fast and felt bottomless. Better than the Nomad.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodsguy
    No more Moto? Wow that was short lived. I demo'd a carbon Moto for a few days last year. Super fast and felt bottomless. Better than the Nomad.
    Rize / RZ140 gone as well...

  7. #7
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    Cannondale flash f3 alloy ,us model its a trail ?does anyone knows the f3 us specs ?this online catalog is full of errors ...

  8. #8
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    Kinda sucks that the Flash 1/Scapel 1 have full XTR except for the crank and brakes. They come with a FSA crank and Marta SL brakes. Would have been nice to have full XTR.

  9. #9
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    Not only have they outsourced production to china, it also looks like they have outsourced their marketing department.

    The 2011 poor product descriptions, photos not matching the specs, missing geometry details. WHAT IS GOING ON CANNONDALE!!

  10. #10
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    Where's the promised lower $

    Quote Originally Posted by Zodiac
    Not only have they outsourced production to china, it also looks like they have outsourced their marketing department.

    The 2011 poor product descriptions, photos not matching the specs, missing geometry details. WHAT IS GOING ON CANNONDALE!!
    Lowest end Claymore 3 ($3,549) - Upper end Claymore 1 ($5,899)
    Lowest end Jekyll 5 ($2,999) - Upper end Jekyll Ultimate ($7,999)

    Can someone explain where the cost savings of outsourcing is getting passed on to the consumer? Because I'm not seeing it just based on those two full suspension models.

    Jeff

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by az1jeff
    Lowest end Claymore 3 ($3,549) - Upper end Claymore 1 ($5,899)
    Lowest end Jekyll 5 ($2,999) - Upper end Jekyll Ultimate ($7,999)

    Can someone explain where the cost savings of outsourcing is getting passed on to the consumer? Because I'm not seeing it just based on those two full suspension models.

    Jeff
    Whatever/Whoever gave you the idea that passing on cost savings was the point of outsourcing. Does the cost of anything go down just because it is outsourced.

    It's done to cut THEIR costs not YOURS.

  12. #12
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    can we please not turn this into another offshoring crapshoot again. its old...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by nathanbal
    can we please not turn this into another offshoring crapshoot again. its old...
    Plenty more to say on the topic.
    whatever...

  14. #14
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    Start a new thread in General Discussion then. No one wants to read about it in here.

  15. #15
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    Ordered my 2011 RZ One Twenty 1 last week and was told a late October delivery, anybody heard anything more concrete as far as delivery dates or better yet any chance anybody received one yet - thanks in advance

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by az1jeff
    Lowest end Claymore 3 ($3,549) - Upper end Claymore 1 ($5,899)
    Lowest end Jekyll 5 ($2,999) - Upper end Jekyll Ultimate ($7,999)

    Can someone explain where the cost savings of outsourcing is getting passed on to the consumer? Because I'm not seeing it just based on those two full suspension models.

    Jeff
    They are 2 brand new models, what are you comparing them to?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogboy
    They are 2 brand new models, what are you comparing them to?
    The level of technology and engineering alone is worth a lot on those bikes. You can't really put a much cheaper, standard shock to drop the prices.

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  18. #18
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    They cutt in the costs ,but there are some ugly bikes on the catalog,some sounds cheaper than the price they ask for ,whats going on cannondale ,or would i say cannonasia ?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dogboy
    They are 2 brand new models, what are you comparing them to?
    That is a lot of money. But compared to its competitors it isn't that bad. The Trek Remedy costs a few hundred more at each level. BUT the carbon Remedys are made in the US.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by limba
    Kinda sucks that the Flash 1/Scapel 1 have full XTR except for the crank and brakes. They come with a FSA crank and Marta SL brakes. Would have been nice to have full XTR.

    I agree 100% but it seems like almost every company is doing this now. Where 90% of the bike is either SRAM or XTR but then a few parts are swapped out. I hate it. I find using an entire group has always been the best as far as performance. I hate mixing and matching

  21. #21
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    It bugs me because I want a high end aluminum crank (XTR, Hollowgram) and the new XTR brakes are supposed to be awesome.

  22. #22
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    XTR is a bit boring, the cranks are not light and need an additional adaptor to fit in a BB30 frame. My guess is they wanted a true BB30 crankset to have the benefits of it (and promote the standard) and FSA have good OEM pricing, it's probably cheaper than a XTR crankset and as most know, product managers have certain price points to target.

    Plus, XTR was THE high end name tag on everyone's mind 10 years ago but not these days. It's great stuff, works fine but it's no longer the best in most people's mind, there isn't as much demand for it... Cannondale can't spec bikes to everyone's personal liking. There will always be some people who are not 100% happy with stock specs. If you want high end, upgrade and get the Hollowgram SL, but having it stock on the 1 models would have raised the prices a bit.

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  23. #23
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    in Italy available prices of bikes and frame kits

  24. #24
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    My guess is they got a great deal on FSA cranks and Marta brakes. It's just a drag (for me) because the cranks and brakes are the highlights of the new XTR group.

  25. #25
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    Heard great things about the brakes too. What's so improved about the crankset? I haven't looked into it much but it seemed more of a cosmetic change than anything else, and the availability of a double... And I think Shimano's XTR and Dura-Ace now looks like a 90's vision of the future, not a big fan but, it's just cosmetic.

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  26. #26
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    Hey Eliflap,

    can you post the prices for frame kits, scalpel, flash and flas 29?

  27. #27
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    I like the XTR crank 'cause it's aluminum, I know it will shift well and I'm ok with it's looks. The Hollowgrams would be even nicer but yes that would drive up the price.
    Ideally for me the Flash 1 would have the same frame, fork and crank as the Team but with slightly cheaper wheels and components.
    I'm just thinking out loud. Maybe next moth I'll see if my local dealer would be able to upgrade the Flash 1's crank/brakes or downgrade the Flash Team's wheelset.
    Same thing with the Super X. Awesome spec but the wheelset is overkill unless you're a serious 'cross racer.

  28. #28
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    Well, it's your personal preference. Nothing wrong with it but there's nothing wrong with someone who prefers a carbon FSA BB30 crankset and Magura brakes. Again, Cannondale can't have the exact specs for every single consumer. Your LBS should be quite happy to meet your specific tastes and personally, I enjoy changing stuff, doing things myself, picking my parts, putting them on myself and having a build that's not just an 'off-the-shelf'...

    And take any top end model, they're all overkill for most cyclists... Doesn't mean those who can afford them and that want them shouldn't get them even if they don't even race.

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  29. #29
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    I have a Flash 29er Carbon 2, Jekyll Ultimate and Lexi 1 on order to replace bike's we lost in a fire, we're being told end of October for all of them. I'm pretty sure that the Jekyll will be sleeping in my bedroom with me, right next to the Flash! So psyched!
    2011 Cannondale Flash Carbon 2
    2010 Redline Monocog Flight
    2010 Specialized Roubaix Expert
    2011 Cannondale Jekyl Ultimate

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kwik
    Hey Eliflap,

    can you post the prices for frame kits, scalpel, flash and flas 29?
    italian price list ...as "twilight new moon"

    http://www.ciclimontanini.it/public/...ore%202011.pdf

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous
    And take any top end model, they're all overkill for most cyclists... Doesn't mean those who can afford them and that want them shouldn't get them even if they don't even race.
    Absolutely. It's just for me the Zipp tubulars would be ridiculous to ride around on.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by limba
    Absolutely. It's just for me the Zipp tubulars would be ridiculous to ride around on.
    Actually those Zipp tubulars are a great wheel and provide a very comfortable and compliant ride.

  33. #33
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    I know they do. They're amazing wheels. I wouldn't want them 'cause they're too good to just ride around with. Those wheels are for serious racers, people that win races. I bike for fun and exercise. I'm not a fit racer.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by limba
    I know they do. They're amazing wheels. I wouldn't want them 'cause they're too good to just ride around with. Those wheels are for serious racers, people that win races. I bike for fun and exercise. I'm not a fit racer.
    No more ridiculous than a SRAM Red equipped, $7,500 'cross bike. I think given the context, it's a good spec. Most folks with a cross bike that expensive are going to buy tubulars anyway, 2 sets for that matter. If they already have some preferred (or sponsor supplied) wheels, I'm sure the Zipps will find their way to Ebay.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by eliflap
    italian price list ...as "twilight new moon"

    http://www.ciclimontanini.it/public/...ore%202011.pdf
    Thanks fotr the info.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by eliflap
    italian price list ...as "twilight new moon"

    http://www.ciclimontanini.it/public/...ore%202011.pdf
    Crazy frame pricing!! A Jekyll alloy frame for 2300 Euro?? I can get the Jekyll 4 for 2500 Euro, so for 200 Euro more you get all the parts!

  37. #37
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    jekyll 5 color is not very pretty,
    abd i'm sad no more rizes 140, suche a nice bike, i do love mine
    Sai da cama e vem para a lama !!!!!

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by eliflap
    italian price list ...as "twilight new moon"

    http://www.ciclimontanini.it/public/...ore%202011.pdf
    Mad price for scalpel frame at 3700 €!! Do you know if some promotion on frame replacing (old frames to be left for a consistent discount!!) are planned at Cannondale such as to save 500-700 €??

  39. #39
    FIRENZE rulez !!
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    price of frame kit ( Lefty is included in 3700 euro ) is the same of last year or very similar , maybe raised only 100 euro , not remember well.

    no promotions , only to ask some euro shaved by LBS

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betzel
    Crazy frame pricing!! A Jekyll alloy frame for 2300 Euro?? I can get the Jekyll 4 for 2500 Euro, so for 200 Euro more you get all the parts!
    frame is FORK included !

    all frames have a fork included in the price.


    obviously , in this way Cannondale push a biker to buy a complete bike , not a frame kit.

    low value versions are close to frame kit price

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by limba
    I know they do. They're amazing wheels. I wouldn't want them 'cause they're too good to just ride around with. Those wheels are for serious racers, people that win races. I bike for fun and exercise. I'm not a fit racer.
    You should get the SuperX and I'll trade you my Ultegra wheels for your Zipps it's a win-win for the both of us

  42. #42
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    i dont think the jekyll frame comes with a fork or am i missing something
    Last edited by jan vb; 09-27-2010 at 09:49 PM.

  43. #43
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    i need to know prices for us models :flash f1,f2,f3 (alloy)and caad 10 ultegra ?does anyone can help on this ?thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by dypeterc
    You should get the SuperX and I'll trade you my Ultegra wheels for your Zipps it's a win-win for the both of us
    I have a SuperX and I am keeping the Zipps ,and getting a set of Ksyrium clinchers for road work.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadBoyNY
    I have a SuperX and I am keeping the Zipps ,and getting a set of Ksyrium clinchers for road work.
    Mmmm, this may be a PITA. The Zipps are much wider compared to the Ksyriums. And Cantis would probably need to be re-aligned everytime you switch wheels because of the geometry of how canti brakes pivot. I had this issue with my cross bike, switching from Ksyrium SL's and Hed C2 wheels. Road brakes don't have that issue, I can switch without issues, I just flip the brake open for the wide rims, closed for the Mavics with a few turns of the barrel adjuster if needed.

    So you can send me those Zipps since I already know how to deal with the issue.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous
    Mmmm, this may be a PITA. The Zipps are much wider compared to the Ksyriums. And Cantis would probably need to be re-aligned everytime you switch wheels because of the geometry of how canti brakes pivot. I had this issue with my cross bike, switching from Ksyrium SL's and Hed C2 wheels. Road brakes don't have that issue, I can switch without issues, I just flip the brake open for the wide rims, closed for the Mavics with a few turns of the barrel adjuster if needed.

    So you can send me those Zipps since I already know how to deal with the issue.
    Good try Dan but unconvincing. I'm not going to be changing on a regular basis. As soon as the weather gets nice in the spring ( that 's June for us NorEasters ), I will put Ksyriums in for roadwork...and i can always call you to tell me how to make the adjustment

    If i ever get to love riding on the road other than for conditioning I will get a SuperSix.

  47. #47
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    Are you racing cross?

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadBoyNY
    Good try Dan but unconvincing. I'm not going to be changing on a regular basis. As soon as the weather gets nice in the spring ( that 's June for us NorEasters ), I will put Ksyriums in for roadwork...and i can always call you to tell me how to make the adjustment

    If i ever get to love riding on the road other than for conditioning I will get a SuperSix.
    You can't blame me for trying!

    So it's not such an issue then if it's two switches per year. Also swap the chainrings for road duty when you change, a 46T big ring is waaaaay too small on the road, especially with the smaller, faster road tires. My cross bike actually brought me to do more and more road riding so I bought a SuperSix and I'm glad I did, my cross bike stays dressed as a cross bike year round, I do both cross type rides and road rides year round so I grew tired to change setups. Now they're both always ready.
    Last edited by Dan Gerous; 09-28-2010 at 08:24 AM.

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  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous
    You can't blame me for trying!

    So it's not such an issue then if it's two switches per year. Also swap the chainrings for road duty when you change, a 46T big ring is waaaaay too small on the road, especially with the smaller, faster road tires. My cross bike actually brought me to do more and more road riding so I bought a SuperSix and I'm glad I did, my cross bike stays dressed as a cross bike year round, I do both cross type rides and road rides year round so I grew tired to change setups. Now they're both always ready.
    I agree with you about the ring, I'm not the fittest person around, but i am in reasonably good condition and when i picked the bike up I rode home 40 miles at a pace i was not happy with.

    If I am changing the rings , what tooth count do you recommend as a big ring . When I get the road wheel set I was going to get a new cassette so I don't have to change cassettes each time either.

    So whatever the big ring is would be working with the same ratio spread on the standard SuperX cassette. Unless you know if SRAM has a better road set.

    Sorry about the questions , but I literally have not ridden a road bike for more than ten miles since my teens.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by limba
    Are you racing cross?
    Not this year, but I am going to have a go next year. I am primarily a MTBer and I bought the SuperX to ride rail trails/ light duty single track and to get some road conditioning. The simple reason being that if I am riding along and I see a trail that I want to explore I can do that with a cross bike more easily than with a pure road bike and the road tires.

  51. #51
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    I hear ya. I bought a cross bike for the same reasons. You're not worried about flatting a tubular in the woods?

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadBoyNY
    I agree with you about the ring, I'm not the fittest person around, but i am in reasonably good condition and when i picked the bike up I rode home 40 miles at a pace i was not happy with.

    If I am changing the rings , what tooth count do you recommend as a big ring . When I get the road wheel set I was going to get a new cassette so I don't have to change cassettes each time either.

    So whatever the big ring is would be working with the same ratio spread on the standard SuperX cassette. Unless you know if SRAM has a better road set.

    Sorry about the questions , but I literally have not ridden a road bike for more than ten miles since my teens.
    For road riding, I find a compact 50T big ring to be pretty good when having a cassette with a 11t smallest cog, I wouldn't want something smaller though. I can even need something taller than that sometimes but not often (I just see those occasions as high-cadence training), I find it pretty good in most case and I can stay on that ring for long periods even with climbs, longer than if I used a bigger one. It depends where you are. If you ride in a place that's mostly flat or doesn't have long or steep climbs, I'd go even bigger. But I have no flat roads around me, I love to climb.

    The cassette ratio also depends where you ride. I have a few but on the road, I use mostly a 11-26. I have a 11-28 but I only install it for my yearly trip in the Pyrénées. Note that one tooth on a cog makes about the same difference as 3 on a chainring... My cross bike has 38/46 rings and a 12-27 cassette but I just used that cassette because I had it laying around, I'd prefer a 11-26. But it's fine as I have a SuperSix for road rides. My cross bike is used for cross races, lots of dirt/gravel road rides mostly in the spring and fall, smooth trails and winter road rides. I thought about going 1x10 on the cross bike but it's harder to find one gearing that will be good for every cross race, and use the bike for more than cross.

    A few things, if you install a bigger ring, you may need a longer chain. A good idea could be to keep your bigger rings, longer chain with the road wheels and cassette together, switch all the drivetrain parts when you switch to the cross setup. Also note that you will probably have to put the front derailleur a bit higher with bigger rings (that also means re-fixing the cable). You may be able to get away with leaving it higher even when switching to the cross rings (just set it as low as possible with your bigger big ring).

    As for cassette model choice, just don't use a SRAM Red for cross and trail, the powerdome design doesn't get along mud and dirt too well.

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  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by limba
    I hear ya. I bought a cross bike for the same reasons. You're not worried about flatting a tubular in the woods?
    I'm already running sealant in the tires and I will take a can of Pitstop with me...otherwise fingers crossed. Most of the places I currently ride i can walk home, to the car or at least to a friendly hostelry.

    The EVO XM has some Kevlar in the mix but i'm not quite sure where, tread or sidewalls?

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous
    For road riding, I find a compact 50T big ring to be pretty good when having a cassette with a 11t smallest cog, I wouldn't want something smaller though. I can even need something taller than that sometimes but not often (I just see those occasions as high-cadence training), I find it pretty good in most case and I can stay on that ring for long periods even with climbs, longer than if I used a bigger one. It depends where you are. If you ride in a place that's mostly flat or doesn't have long or steep climbs, I'd go even bigger. But I have no flat roads around me, I love to climb.

    The cassette ratio also depends where you ride. I have a few but on the road, I use mostly a 11-26. I have a 11-28 but I only install it for my yearly trip in the Pyrénées. Note that one tooth on a cog makes about the same difference as 3 on a chainring... My cross bike has 38/46 rings and a 12-27 cassette but I just used that cassette because I had it laying around, I'd prefer a 11-26. But it's fine as I have a SuperSix for road rides. My cross bike is used for cross races, lots of dirt/gravel road rides mostly in the spring and fall, smooth trails and winter road rides. I thought about going 1x10 on the cross bike but it's harder to find one gearing that will be good for every cross race, and use the bike for more than cross.

    A few things, if you install a bigger ring, you may need a longer chain. A good idea could be to keep your bigger rings, longer chain with the road wheels and cassette together, switch all the drivetrain parts when you switch to the cross setup. Also note that you will probably have to put the front derailleur a bit higher with bigger rings (that also means re-fixing the cable). You may be able to get away with leaving it higher even when switching to the cross rings (just set it as low as possible with your bigger big ring).

    As for cassette model choice, just don't use a SRAM Red for cross and trail, the powerdome design doesn't get along mud and dirt too well.

    This is what I got mine for too .. "lots of dirt/gravel road rides mostly in the spring and fall, smooth trails and winter road rides "

    The stock spec for the rear cassette is 12-26, the front set is a compact 46/36.the current rear cassette is a SRAM PG1070 ( assuming they haven;'t changed the spec of course ). UPDATE- the stock cassette is not the Powerdome - Cannondale probably didn't fit it because of the mudding reasons you describe., the PG1070 is available as an 11-28 too.

    I know the cassette has the holey rings for want of a better description. A DH friend of mine at GT recommends running those in muddy conditions for their shedding capabilities.

    As you recommend i will probably just have a complete set up for the road riding - rear cass / front rings and chain .

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadBoyNY
    This is what I got mine for too .. "lots of dirt/gravel road rides mostly in the spring and fall, smooth trails and winter road rides "

    The stock spec for the rear cassette is 12-26, the front set is a compact 46/36.the current rear cassette is a SRAM PG1070 ( assuming they haven;'t changed the spec of course ). UPDATE- the stock cassette is not the Powerdome - Cannondale probably didn't fit it because of the mudding reasons you describe., the PG1070 is available as an 11-28 too.

    I know the cassette has the holey rings for want of a better description. A DH friend of mine at GT recommends running those in muddy conditions for their shedding capabilities.

    As you recommend i will probably just have a complete set up for the road riding - rear cass / front rings and chain .
    PG1070, that's what the SRAM sponsored pros use. To give you an idea, I got my bike from current US CX champ, he gave it to me in it's training setup at the time. Full Red except for a PG1070 11-26 cassette, 34/50 rings for dirt road training and Ksyrium SL clinchers (the team was sponsored by Mavic back then)... I asked him if I could trade it for a SuperX but I get the impression he wont think it's a good trade.

    For the road though, I use Red cassettes, they're lighter.

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous
    PG1070, that's what the SRAM sponsored pros use. To give you an idea, I got my bike from current US CX champ, he gave it to me in it's training setup at the time. Full Red except for a PG1070 11-26 cassette, 34/50 rings for dirt road training and Ksyrium SL clinchers (the team was sponsored by Mavic back then)... I asked him if I could trade it for a SuperX but I get the impression he wont think it's a good trade.

    For the road though, I use Red cassettes, they're lighter.
    Ask him nicely next year ,they will probably have a disk version for next year, so this years model will be surplus to requirements.

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by jays0n
    I have a Flash 29er Carbon 2, Jekyll Ultimate and Lexi 1 on order to replace bike's we lost in a fire
    ??!!!???!!! *pours gasoline on living room floor*

  58. #58
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    question one :
    where i can see the us cannondale 2011 price list ?

    question two:
    who makes the cannondales in asia ?they have their own facilities or is merida plus giant to make them ?

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    hmmm...I thought that Cannondale was going to discontinue the fatty headshock but there is a fatty DLR80 on the 2011 Flash 3.

    Does this mean that they may still have parts for the older fatty DLR's ?

  60. #60
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    Not only are there still Fatties, but it now sports a very nice OPI lower.


    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  61. #61
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    Is that thing lighter than a Lefty? Be curious to see it on a 29'er. I always loved the Fatty on my Caad5.
    Emory Kalahari Kruiser

  62. #62
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    Published weight for the Fatty is 2.8lbs.

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