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Thread: 1FG gearing

  1. #1
    dsw is offline
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Jul 2004

    1FG gearing

    I recently purchased a 1FG and I would like to change the gearing for more speed on the flats. The bicycle currently has 32x18 - and suggestions on new gearing?


  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    You should try posting this in the single speed forum...

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Jan 2004

    1FG gearing

    Quote Originally Posted by dsw
    I recently purchased a 1FG and I would like to change the gearing for more speed on the flats. The bicycle currently has 32x18 - and suggestions on new gearing?

    I've got an 1FG and I've changed the cogs, chainrings, and chain quite a few times for different conditions. Here's a few things I've learned.

    One thing to note is that when you change a cog or chainring, the chain tension will need to be adjusted via the EBB. Cannondale's got a pdf file here:
    that will help with needed adjustments. One thing I can tell you about the EBB is to not overtighten the wedge bolt. Otherwise you've got to hammer the crap out of the bolt head to drive the wedge loose when it's time to adjust or relube it.

    For the cog on the rear, I use a chain whip and this Park tool:
    to remove the lock ring.

    If you want to change the chainring on the front, the crankarm will need to come off. (At least I think it needs to come off. Seems like you could change the chainring without removing the crankarm, but it's easier for me to do it this way.)
    Use an 8mm hex wrench to remove the crankarm bolts then use this tool:
    to remove the crankarm. Then use an hex wrench and maybe this:
    to remove the four chainring bolts.

    Note that changing the gears means adjusting the chain tension with the EBB, but sometimes the chain will be too short or long depending on the gearing and you'll need to add or remove links to/from the chain. Around here, I run 32x18, but I changed it to 34x16 for the coast and didn't need to change the chain length. (I've got a long chain and a short chain depending on the gearing installed.)

    This is optional, but if you're doing all of this, go ahead and remove the other crankarm so you can totally remove the EBB from the frame. Then clean and relube the EBB (and frame housing) to cut down on the creaking that comes from there.

    My 1FG came with a 33 tooth chainring (yes 33T) and 16 and 18 tooth cogs. For what you want, remove your 18T cog and replace it with the 16T cog. Adjust the EBB chain tension and you should be set. I don't think you'll need to change the length of the chain for this. The EBB should be able to take up the slack. (Once again, I could be wrong.)

    None of this is too tough, enjoy.
    Mr. Flip

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