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  1. #1
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    Yelli Drivetrain Help

    I am redoing my set up on my yelli. Looking for some options.

    Currently..
    Raceface Evolve 3x10 crank set to 1x10 (32t by 11-32)
    E13 LG1+ chain guide
    SRAM X9 Cassette 11-32

    My issues are...

    Crank was a 3x10 and PO used a grinder to remove material to make it work.. Not clean by any means..

    When I spin the crank by hand it makes it about 1.5 turns and stops. I would like to remove that friction from that driveline.

    My plan is a new 1x crank, ditch the chainguide and go w/ a raceface/wolftooth narrow wide ring. I would also like to switch to an 11-36 cassette. Or maybe try out one of those new 42 tooth cassette rings from one up components. I have had to service my BB constantly as well so I would like to switch to a Chris King BB. Been hearing pretty damn good things about that.

    I checked my chainline and it's 50.8mm. So no reason to worry there.

    Any suggestions as to why i have so much resistance in my drivetrain? I spoke with the shop that built it and they claim that they tighten the crank really tight given that i'm 285lbs.. any truth to this or do I have other issues?>?

  2. #2
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    They should be tightening the crank to torque spec. That may be causing a problem but in this case it doesn't sound like the root issue. Do you have rubbing on the chain guide? How's the tooth wear on the chain ring and cassette? It sounds like you're planning on replacing the whole drive train anyways so finding the root cause of the problem probably isn't that important.

  3. #3
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    That is why they "clearanced" the crank. It was rubbing on the chainguide.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkidd_39 View Post
    I spoke with the shop that built it and they claim that they tighten the crank really tight given that i'm 285lbs.. any truth to this or do I have other issues?>?
    never, ever, under any circumstances let anyone that works there touch your bike (or anything else that's yours) again. That's probably the reason for the excessive friction and constant BB service. It sounds like they've put too much preload on the bearings which... causes friction and wears them out.

    I'd still find the root cause just because... well I can't let something be wrong and walk away from it, and if the same idiots set up a replacement drivetrain, they'll probably f that up too.

  5. #5
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    Yeah...clearanced the crank? Really? What the hell? It really sounds like they don't know what they're doing. Take it somewhere else for future work if you're not going to do it yourself. What Joules says is correct on bearing wear but I'm still wondering about the catching action you're talking about. The first thing I would try is removing the chainguide and seeing if that helps.

  6. #6
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    Yelli Drivetrain Help

    Quote Originally Posted by BlueDragonX View Post
    Yeah...clearanced the crank? Really? What the hell? It really sounds like they don't know what they're doing. Take it somewhere else for future work if you're not going to do it yourself. What Joules says is correct on bearing wear but I'm still wondering about the catching action you're talking about. The first thing I would try is removing the chainguide and seeing if that helps.
    Yeah. I'm due for a new chain/cassette so after the holidays I'll start shopping for a crank and BB. Then I'll swap it all over.

    I'm thinking removing the chainguide will fix the added friction issue

  7. #7
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    FWIW I'm running an X9 crankset spiderless with an mrp blingring and a MRP 1x guide. It's perfect, smooth as butter and never dropped a chain

  8. #8
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    Shimano is the only crank that allows you to adjust the preload on the BB bearings. Two pinch bolts, done. Save your money on that BB too... the King offers no extra performance benefit beyond the ability to overhaul it. XT level Shimano bearings last me a good bit in the wet east coast and they're cheap online.

    Raceface does make a hell of a NW chainring though. Get a clutch RD and one of those and you're done. No need for a guide!
    My one says BRAP!

  9. #9
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    I have decided to go with a spiderless. I have always loved the clean look of them. I am going with the CK BB cuz i'm doing a set of his hubs. I'm not really a fan of Shimano to be honest. Loved my SRAM everything well other than SRAM brakes.. they suck.

    Thinking of going w/ this crank.
    Truvativ Stylo 1.1 GXP Crankset W/BB > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

    If I can figure out if the spider is removable.. They say on the SS crank it is. Unless I can snag an XO/X9 Crank off ebay for cheap.

    Thanks for the info tho!!

  10. #10
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    Ive been using the Stylo cranks for a few years now. The spider is not removable on those. Basically they use the same casting on the 1.1 (32 tooth/bash), 2.2 (24/36/bash) and 3.3 (22/32/44). On the 1.1 they dont drill & tap the holes for the granny ring.
    No moss...

  11. #11
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    few crank comments

    I have run three main drivetrain configurations on my yellis over the past couple of years and thought you might appreciate a few quick comments.
    Config 1: XT M770 crank with a standard tooth profile 32T ring, MRP 1X chain guide, non-clutch X9 derailleur.
    Config 2. Same XT crank but with a 32T RaceFace narrow wide ring, no chain guide, and a clutch X9 derailleur.
    Config 3. Just switched to a X9 crank with direct mount wolftooth 32T spiderless ring, no chain guide, same clutch derailleur.

    Config 1 - generally good setup but I would drop a chain every four or five rides. Not a huge fan of the direct mount 1X guide as it is a bit flexy. My other bike at the time used a simple N-gear jumpstop with a BBG bashring that was more reliable (note: jumpstop doesn't fit a yelli).

    Config 2 - Flawless performance for the ~6 months I ran that setup. Not a single chain drop. Due to taller and wider teeth of the narrow wide ring, I had to run 2 standard BB spacers behind the driveside BB cup to prevent the teeth from striking the chainstay yoke. No performance issues at all with this setup - totally happy rider.

    Config 3 - I just switched to this setup and I haven't had the chance to ride much since installing the X9 cranks. Fitting a SRAM crankset with the Wolftooth narrow wide 32T ring is problematic but doable. I had to rig up some custom spacers to get the wide teeth to clear the chainstay yoke since there is not really a good way to increase chainline on a GXP BB (Shimano's BB design provides much better ftiment adjustments IMO). Ping me in a couple of weeks if you want an update on this setup.

    -Nutball

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nutball View Post
    I have run three main drivetrain configurations on my yellis over the past couple of years and thought you might appreciate a few quick comments.
    Config 1: XT M770 crank with a standard tooth profile 32T ring, MRP 1X chain guide, non-clutch X9 derailleur.
    Config 2. Same XT crank but with a 32T RaceFace narrow wide ring, no chain guide, and a clutch X9 derailleur.
    Config 3. Just switched to a X9 crank with direct mount wolftooth 32T spiderless ring, no chain guide, same clutch derailleur.

    Config 1 - generally good setup but I would drop a chain every four or five rides. Not a huge fan of the direct mount 1X guide as it is a bit flexy. My other bike at the time used a simple N-gear jumpstop with a BBG bashring that was more reliable (note: jumpstop doesn't fit a yelli).

    Config 2 - Flawless performance for the ~6 months I ran that setup. Not a single chain drop. Due to taller and wider teeth of the narrow wide ring, I had to run 2 standard BB spacers behind the driveside BB cup to prevent the teeth from striking the chainstay yoke. No performance issues at all with this setup - totally happy rider.

    Config 3 - I just switched to this setup and I haven't had the chance to ride much since installing the X9 cranks. Fitting a SRAM crankset with the Wolftooth narrow wide 32T ring is problematic but doable. I had to rig up some custom spacers to get the wide teeth to clear the chainstay yoke since there is not really a good way to increase chainline on a GXP BB (Shimano's BB design provides much better ftiment adjustments IMO). Ping me in a couple of weeks if you want an update on this setup.

    -Nutball
    Correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't removing the spider move the chainring closer to the crankarm? I know the yelli can be difficult at times to get the clearance right.

    Any info you can give aboutSet up #3 would be great!!!

  13. #13
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    More detail

    Again, I would like to stress that I don't have enough ride time in to fully endorse my solution at this point (translation: copy at own risk).

    That being said here is what I did.

    I turned a custom spacer that slides over the splines and essentially moves the stepped shoulder on the spindle. This causes the chainline to increase by ~2.5 mm giving me the clearance necessary for the 32T Direct mount Wolftooth ring. I actually made five different spindle spacers to experiment with and the 2.5mm option seemed about perfect. 2.0 mm was actually enough for the wide teeth to just clear the chainstay yoke but there wasn't enough clearance for my taste.

    This spacer approach certainly reduces the spline engagement but so far I haven't had any issues. Furhermore, I am not expecting any issues based on my positive experiences with other cranks and the extremely beefy SRAM splines. This approach does not put any axial loads on the driveside BB bearing (which GXP bearings hate) so I can torque the BB up to SRAM specs without any issues.

    sorry for the large picts...



    As for your other question - Removing the spider and using the direct mount wolf tooth ring does not reduce the chainline. The Wolf tooth direct mount ring was designed to create a 50 mm chainline when mounted to the SRAM cranks. (With my spacer, I am now running ~52.5 mm.) Note that some brands of direct mount rings such as NSB do in fact have a reduced chainline.

  14. #14
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    Yelli Drivetrain Help

    Thanks for all the info. I got a 32t home brewed components chainring on the way so I'll have to see what I got for chainline.

    Right now I have a hair under 51mm chainline and it's fine but tight.

    I will probably be going with a 28t ring from WT. I'd like to see how broad of a range I can get with 28 up front and a 11-42 cassette in back.

  15. #15
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    You may be OK with the Homebrew ring. It was the wide teeth on the Wolftooth/RaceFace Narrow-wide rings where it got really tight. I will be going with a 30T Wolftooth ring myself whenever I find a good price.

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    Yelli Drivetrain Help

    Isn't the home brew ring a narrow/wide set up like your current set up??

    I agree on finding a good price. I do appreciate the hardworking and attention to detail of WT/absolute and all the other spiderless n/w makers but $70 for a chainring is kinda crazy.

    But hey. They market will bear it.

    Keep your eyes open on eBay. I snagged my 32t hbc ring for $20shipped.

  17. #17
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    I tried using an HBC 32t spiderless chainring on my YS with X9 cranks. The HBC ring moved the chainline outboard to much and didn't work with the MRP 1x chainguide. If you go with the HBC ring and a chainguide you'll need to modify the chainguide. I wasn't interested in making modifications when there are other options that work good. I ended up going with an MRP Bling Ring with no issues on the YS and throwing the HBC ring my SSN9.
    I only ride bikes to fill the time when I'm not skiing.

  18. #18
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    Re: Yelli Drivetrain Help

    Quote Originally Posted by jkidd_39 View Post
    Isn't the home brew ring a narrow/wide set up like your current set up??

    I agree on finding a good price. I do appreciate the hardworking and attention to detail of WT/absolute and all the other spiderless n/w makers but $70 for a chainring is kinda crazy.

    But hey. They market will bear it.

    Keep your eyes open on eBay. I snagged my 32t hbc ring for $20shipped.
    As far as I know, none of the hbc rings have the narrow/wide youths profiles.

    Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nutball View Post
    As far as I know, none of the hbc rings have the narrow/wide tooth profiles.

    Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk
    I should have also mentioned this in my above post. The HBC rings have a standard tooth profile, so you'll need a chainguide, that is if you can find one that works, I couldn't. IMO, the HBC ring is a terrible option for geared set-ups, it works fine on a SS though. I'd go with a Wolftooth if you don't want to run a chainguide or an MRP Bling Ring that has some offset so it will work better with a chainguide.
    I only ride bikes to fill the time when I'm not skiing.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldHouseMan View Post
    I should have also mentioned this in my above post. The HBC rings have a standard tooth profile, so you'll need a chainguide, that is if you can find one that works, I couldn't. IMO, the HBC ring is a terrible option for geared set-ups, it works fine on a SS though. I'd go with a Wolftooth if you don't want to run a chainguide or an MRP Bling Ring that has some offset so it will work better with a chainguide.
    ****!!!!!!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkidd_39 View Post
    ****!!!!!!
    Before you **** can the HBC ring you may want to do a little more research. This was just my experience with the HBC spiderless ring, X9 Crankset and the MRP 1x direct mount chainguide. I talked to MRP and they said none of their chainguids had any horizontal adjustment. The quick fix was to purchase an MRP Bling Ring. I picked mine up at my LBS for $45.
    I only ride bikes to fill the time when I'm not skiing.

  22. #22
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    Yelli Drivetrain Help

    I have the mrp chainguide and I am trying to get away from that and go with a more simplistic route.

    I'll try it out and see how it goes. If all else fails I would still like to try a 28t chainring so I'll prob get a wt ring too. Or absolute.

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