I've been considering getting one of these. I really want to know what progression is being used for 9 and 10 speed cassettes, and how they compare to the known 2x10's and 1x10's.

I have been thinking of changing to a 10 speed system, and while I read and hear a lot of good things about running a 1x10, I dont want to lose the range of having my 24/32 granny gear and 36/11 high speed. I use the entire range on many rides.

After reading some posts here in the canfield section, I see a solution: 1x10 with a 9t cog, running a micro ring up front. Something like a 28t drive and 9-36t cassette.

I'm wondering how a 28/9 would align to 36/11 and similarly how the 28/36 would compare to a 24/32

Also, what about putting a 38t on the cassette? would a 9-38t range be do-able?

2. Originally Posted by TheRage43
I've been considering getting one of these. I really want to know what progression is being used for 9 and 10 speed cassettes, and how they compare to the known 2x10's and 1x10's.

I have been thinking of changing to a 10 speed system, and while I read and hear a lot of good things about running a 1x10, I dont want to lose the range of having my 24/32 granny gear and 36/11 high speed. I use the entire range on many rides.

After reading some posts here in the canfield section, I see a solution: 1x10 with a 9t cog, running a micro ring up front. Something like a 28t drive and 9-36t cassette.

I'm wondering how a 28/9 would align to 36/11 and similarly how the 28/36 would compare to a 24/32

Also, what about putting a 38t on the cassette? would a 9-38t range be do-able?
You can use a gear calculator to put in all those possibilities and compare. Here's a good one: BikeCalc.com - Bicycle Gear Ratio Chart

The answer though is that with a 28 + 9/36 you won't lose very much range on either end. You will gain a bit on the high end, and lose just a touch on the low end.

Considering how much weight you can save by going 1x10 and using a 28T bling ring, you probably won't notice it. My One build weighs 32.5 lbs with this setup. Not bad for a 7/8" bike.

3. Thats a great tool! Thanks, that helped tremendously.

Somehow working that 38t onto the top would be the ticket, almost the whole range of the 2x9 I'm running now.

4. Originally Posted by TheRage43
I have been thinking of changing to a 10 speed system, and while I read and hear a lot of good things about running a 1x10, I dont want to lose the range of having my 24/32 granny gear and 36/11 high speed. I use the entire range on many rides.

After reading some posts here in the canfield section, I see a solution: 1x10 with a 9t cog, running a micro ring up front. Something like a 28t drive and 9-36t cassette.

I'm wondering how a 28/9 would align to 36/11 and similarly how the 28/36 would compare to a 24/32

Also, what about putting a 38t on the cassette? would a 9-38t range be do-able?
First of all, which cassette are you using that gives you 11-36 now? If it a 9-speed unit, I want to know where I can get one for my AM bike. It's got a 9-speed cassette but the most range I could find was 11-34.

Anyway, your fastest gear right now is 32/11 or 2.9:1, and your slowest is 24/36 or 0.66:1.
So a 28t drive with 9-36 would yield 28/9= 3.1:1 (slightly faster) and 28/36=0.77:1 (not quite as slow).

I think you'd just barely notice the difference in high gear. since 2.9 versus 3.1 is only a 7% change. But climbing would get significantly harder since 0.66 versus 0.77 is a 16% change. Which makes sense considering that you'll still be climbing with the 36t cog in the cassette, but you'd be using it with a 28t single ring instead of your current 24t granny.

I'm pretty sure that a 38t cog would not work. The derailleur would bang into it when you tried to shift down.

That could perhaps be fixed if manufacturers changed the angle of the path that rear derailleurs move through.... and maybe that's what SRAM and Shimano will try to sell us in a year or three, after 10-speed setups become the norm and they need a new gimmick to get everyone to upgrade.

5. This is interesting as I have been debating a 1x10 setup as I contemplate purchasing "the one". So if my math is correct I currently have a 2x9 with 22/34 (.65:1) and a 32/11 (2.91:1). with a 28t 9-36 1x10 I would have a low gear of.78:1 and high gear of 3.1:1. The low gear would be a 20% increase (decrease?) and make the big hills here much harder to climb. Nuts, was hoping to ditch the FD.

6. I run a 1x9 with 11-34 and am now changing to 12-36. Switching to 10 speed buys me the 11T for a large cash outlay. I'm putting it off until the twist shifter gets cheaper.

7. Originally Posted by NWS
First of all, which cassette are you using that gives you 11-36 now? If it a 9-speed unit, I want to know where I can get one for my AM bike. It's got a 9-speed cassette but the most range I could find was 11-34.

Anyway, your fastest gear right now is 32/11 or 2.9:1, and your slowest is 24/36 or 0.66:1.
So a 28t drive with 9-36 would yield 28/9= 3.1:1 (slightly faster) and 28/36=0.77:1 (not quite as slow).

I think you'd just barely notice the difference in high gear. since 2.9 versus 3.1 is only a 7% change. But climbing would get significantly harder since 0.66 versus 0.77 is a 16% change. Which makes sense considering that you'll still be climbing with the 36t cog in the cassette, but you'd be using it with a 28t single ring instead of your current 24t granny.

I'm pretty sure that a 38t cog would not work. The derailleur would bang into it when you tried to shift down.

That could perhaps be fixed if manufacturers changed the angle of the path that rear derailleurs move through.... and maybe that's what SRAM and Shimano will try to sell us in a year or three, after 10-speed setups become the norm and they need a new gimmick to get everyone to upgrade.
Oh my mistake, I checked and its a 9sp 11-34. I checked with these numbers and the range actually seems quite close on both ends. This will probably be the direction I go come the time.

8. Originally Posted by cruiserman
I run a 1x9 with 11-34 and am now changing to 12-36. Switching to 10 speed buys me the 11T for a large cash outlay. I'm putting it off until the twist shifter gets cheaper.
The 11/34 gives you a slightly wider range than 12/36, so I think it would make more sense to just go smaller on the front ring(s) if you want better climbing. And if smaller front rings are even an option.

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