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  1. #151
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    New question here.

    Another chainring question... I called CFB over the weekend and left a message about this, but I figured I'd post up here as well.

    For a boost setup, If I want to run a raceface aeffect crank, what chainring and spacer setup can I install? Before reading this thread, I tried a boost 32T AB oval ring and that was definitely a no go.

    I then tried the standard raceface 32T ring that came on the crank, and still no go. Will the standard 32T ring fit with 2 spacers and also accomodate the 52mm chainline that I should run, or will I need 2 spacers and also a boost chainring? Anybody had luck running any size oval with boost in the rear?

    Any input is much appreciated. So pumped to complete my first ground up build !
    roots, rocks, logs, downhills, jumps, drops, chutes, climbs...repeat

  2. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by sshapiro112 View Post
    Another chainring question... I called CFB over the weekend and left a message about this, but I figured I'd post up here as well.

    For a boost setup, If I want to run a raceface aeffect crank, what chainring and spacer setup can I install? Before reading this thread, I tried a boost 32T AB oval ring and that was definitely a no go.

    I then tried the standard raceface 32T ring that came on the crank, and still no go. Will the standard 32T ring fit with 2 spacers and also accomodate the 52mm chainline that I should run, or will I need 2 spacers and also a boost chainring? Anybody had luck running any size oval with boost in the rear?

    Any input is much appreciated. So pumped to complete my first ground up build !
    I don't know about the spacers, but the difference between the boost ring and non boost ring is 3mm. A 30T AB oval will fit, but a 32T one really is a 34T.
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  3. #153
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    I went back and re-read this thread, and specifically, dubthang's posts. I am returning the 32T Absolute Black oval boost ring and picking up a 30T Absolute Black oval standard offset ring. Should be good on clearence as long as I move the 1mm rubber spacer supposedly supplied on the non-drive side of my Raceface aeffect crank over to the drive side.
    roots, rocks, logs, downhills, jumps, drops, chutes, climbs...repeat

  4. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by sshapiro112 View Post
    I went back and re-read this thread, and specifically, dubthang's posts. I am returning the 32T Absolute Black oval boost ring and picking up a 30T Absolute Black oval standard offset ring. Should be good on clearence as long as I move the 1mm rubber spacer supposedly supplied on the non-drive side of my Raceface aeffect crank over to the drive side.
    I'd buy the Boost ring over the standard offset.
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  5. #155
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    That's what your running ? It seemed like the standard RF 32T ring was closer to correct than the boost offset absolute black ring that I tried, but obviously I am having some trouble understanding the situation here.

    The boost ring dishes 3mm. If mounted so that the alignment dimple is visible, the dish moves the teeth closer to the BB and the frame as opposed to farther ( appears to me to decrease chainline instead of increase ).

    My buddy has a 2016 Santa Cruz hightower that is specced with a raceface aeffect crank that I believe is the same as mine, and his ring appears to be standard even though that frame is boost setup. That is adding to my confusion, because I though from the getgo that I would need the boost offset ring like you are saying.
    roots, rocks, logs, downhills, jumps, drops, chutes, climbs...repeat

  6. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by sshapiro112 View Post
    That's what your running ? It seemed like the standard RF 32T ring was closer to correct than the boost offset absolute black ring that I tried, but obviously I am having some trouble understanding the situation here.

    The boost ring dishes 3mm. If mounted so that the alignment dimple is visible, the dish moves the teeth closer to the BB and the frame as opposed to farther ( appears to me to decrease chainline instead of increase ).

    My buddy has a 2016 Santa Cruz hightower that is specced with a raceface aeffect crank that I believe is the same as mine, and his ring appears to be standard even though that frame is boost setup. That is adding to my confusion, because I though from the getgo that I would need the boost offset ring like you are saying.
    The boost ring moves the teeth away from the bb. A stock ring is 6mm toward the bb. A boost ring is 3mm. I am using a BB30 ring (Sram only) for zero offset which results in plently of clearance with the chainstay.
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  7. #157
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    Use what you need to clear the chainstays, but the honest fact is, you DO NOT need your chainline spaced any further out with a 148 rear, in fact, using the what was current standard cranks that run 50-52mm chainline is now putting the rings in the right place relative to the cassette. If you use the new BS Boost standard spacing, you will run into issues with chainline, just like you used to with older 135/142, most notably if you try to back pedal in the big cog, as chain angle is so extreme.

    FYI, on my Phantom I run the 150x12 rear with normal XT cranks using the inner and middle position and have near perfect chainline. The only reason to run your rings further out would be to accommodate if you're running a very big tyre that may have the chain rubbing on the tyre in the big cog/granny combo/1x.

    Quote Originally Posted by sshapiro112 View Post
    That's what your running ? It seemed like the standard RF 32T ring was closer to correct than the boost offset absolute black ring that I tried, but obviously I am having some trouble understanding the situation here.

    The boost ring dishes 3mm. If mounted so that the alignment dimple is visible, the dish moves the teeth closer to the BB and the frame as opposed to farther ( appears to me to decrease chainline instead of increase ).

    My buddy has a 2016 Santa Cruz hightower that is specced with a raceface aeffect crank that I believe is the same as mine, and his ring appears to be standard even though that frame is boost setup. That is adding to my confusion, because I though from the getgo that I would need the boost offset ring like you are saying.
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  8. #158
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    Nimble 9 Boost – Now In Stock!

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Use what you need to clear the chainstays, but the honest fact is, you DO NOT need your chainline spaced any further out with a 148 rear, in fact, using the what was current standard cranks that run 50-52mm chainline is now putting the rings in the right place relative to the cassette. If you use the new BS Boost standard spacing, you will run into issues with chainline, just like you used to with older 135/142, most notably if you try to back pedal in the big cog, as chain angle is so extreme.

    FYI, on my Phantom I run the 150x12 rear with normal XT cranks using the inner and middle position and have near perfect chainline. The only reason to run your rings further out would be to accommodate if you're running a very big tyre that may have the chain rubbing on the tyre in the big cog/granny combo/1x.
    Having built a N9 boost. It needs a boost crank from Shimano or Boost offset chainring to clear the chainstay. The Canfield Brothers designed a notch in the chainstay for the rings to clear but with boost spacing chainline of 52mm. Check out post #113 for some chainring clearance photos.


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  9. #159
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    Based on what I am seeing in the Raceface technical documents and what I heard from an employee at RF: the RF Aeffect crank that I have is setup for a 50-52(mm) chainline depending on if you use the supplied rubber 1mm spacers (which I didnt know about until talking to that Raceface technical support employee) on the drive, or non-drive side.

    That being said, it's looking like a standard offset ring along with both of the spacers on the drive side, will give me the desired chainline for this build. I will report back with results when I can get this together. My trip to Killington VT to snowboard was perfectly planned this week with the incoming snow.
    Last edited by sshapiro112; 1 Week Ago at 11:06 AM.
    roots, rocks, logs, downhills, jumps, drops, chutes, climbs...repeat

  10. #160
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    Nimble 9 Boost – Now In Stock!

    I think a Nimble 9 Boost / Crank/Chainring fitment thread is in order.

    I've had N9's beginning with Gen 1 and they had close or very close clearance at the chainstays with a 32T chainring.

    I anticipate many having issues especially as we transition from current crank/chainring combos to Boost spacing. Especially with the N9 that seems to have very tight clearance, at least in my experience.



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  11. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by racefit View Post
    I think a Nimble 9 Boost / Crank/Chainring fitment thread is in order.

    I've had N9's beginning with Gen 1 and they had close or very close clearance at the chainstays with a 32T chainring.

    I anticipate many having issues especially as we transition from current crank/chainring combos to Boost spacing. Especially with the N9 that seems to have very tight clearance, at least in my experience.



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    Good idea. I'll start one.
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  12. #162
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    Nimble 9 Boost – Now In Stock!-img_3148.2.jpg
    Haven't been able to ride it yet.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Nimble 9 Boost – Now In Stock!-img_3148.2.jpg  

    Last edited by Neitzel; 2 Days Ago at 08:53 AM. Reason: picture correction

  13. #163
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    Nimble 9 Boost – Now In Stock!

    Quote Originally Posted by Neitzel View Post
    Nimble 9 Boost – Now In Stock!-img_3148.2.jpg
    Haven't been able to ride it yet.
    Looks like what I'm about to build.

    Did you go with 27.5 or 29 version of the DVO fork? What travel is it set at?

    Rim and tire sizes?

    Looks great!

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  14. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by racefit View Post
    Looks like what I'm about to build.

    Did you go with 27.5 or 29 version of the DVO fork? What travel is it set at?

    Rim and tire sizes?

    Looks great!
    Thanks, really looking forward to getting some miles on it.

    The fork is a 29 set at 140mm.

    NN 2.8 front
    RR 2.8 rear

    NOX Kitsuma 27.5xi35 rims

  15. #165
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    Are rims 35mm inside diameter?


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  16. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by racefit View Post
    Are rims 35mm inside diameter?

    Cost?


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  17. #167
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    Rims are 36mm inside.

    Complete wheel set was $1800 before Shipping & discount. Through ProWheelBuilder.com
    Last edited by Neitzel; 1 Day Ago at 07:41 PM. Reason: measurement correction

  18. #168
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    Thanks!


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  19. #169
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    Been riding 29 kitsuma with 2.5 DHF on front and I9 360 with 2.8 DHR and it rips the DH flow and chunky. Highly recommend


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  20. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by ceblanch View Post
    Been riding 29 kitsuma with 2.5 DHF on front and I9 360 with 2.8 DHR and it rips the DH flow and chunky. Highly recommend


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    29er up front with 27.5 plus rear? Let's see some photos


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  21. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by ceblanch View Post
    Been riding 29 kitsuma with 2.5 DHF on front and I9 360 with 2.8 DHR and it rips the DH flow and chunky. Highly recommend


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    https://youtu.be/1HY_nwi29Ik

    That's a mouthful of code, right there. ;-)

  22. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamkeith View Post
    https://youtu.be/1HY_nwi29Ik

    That's a mouthful of code, right there. ;-)
    MTBR short hand


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