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  1. #101
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    What size and type of chainrings have people been running? And how are you running them (boost direct mount, outside on a 104 bcd, etc)?

    I ask because I tried using a boost corrected 32t AB oval ring on a set of Canfield cranks and it hits the stay. It looks as if the notch on the chain stay is in the wrong spot (not close enough to the bb). I'm assuming that a 30t AB oval ring will fit so I am going to pick one of those up to try.

  2. #102
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    Anyone have any ride time on the new Nimble 9 and Kona Honzo? Keep going back and forth between the two. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by CVrider View Post
    Anyone have any ride time on the new Nimble 9 and Kona Honzo? Keep going back and forth between the two. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
    Don't know anything about the new Honzo, but the new Nimble frame is really nice. Hoping to have it together by the end of the week.

  4. #104
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    Took it out for the first proper ride. This thing is so much fun.







    Here's a view of the tire clearance with 29 x 2.4 on a 30mm rim with the dropouts pushed all the way forward.





    Bit of a delicate balance between losing traction and hoisting the front on climbs, but it's still early days. When the nose is pointed down or things get tight, this thing shines.

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubthang View Post
    What size and type of chainrings have people been running? And how are you running them (boost direct mount, outside on a 104 bcd, etc)?

    I ask because I tried using a boost corrected 32t AB oval ring on a set of Canfield cranks and it hits the stay. It looks as if the notch on the chain stay is in the wrong spot (not close enough to the bb). I'm assuming that a 30t AB oval ring will fit so I am going to pick one of those up to try.
    I tried to fit a 34 tooth AB chainring with NEXT SL cranks and ran into the same problem. Currently running a 28 tooth (yikes!) RF wheel until I get in more spacers.

  6. #106
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    Absolutely love the revised 2017 N9----- best way yo describe the ride.... its like the Yelli Screamy and the EPO had a baby and the N9 was born... the new geo with the longer rider area and the higher stack has really woken up the beast in this bike... loves to be whipped around then plowed thru the rocks.... the downs are unbelievable stable ... im having a hard time taking any of my other CB bikes out for a ride...(and I have all their awesome bikes in the stable)...













    video link


    video link







    Every person who has jumped on this beast has the same first words.... "this is a FUN bike!"

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubthang View Post
    What size and type of chainrings have people been running? And how are you running them (boost direct mount, outside on a 104 bcd, etc)?

    I ask because I tried using a boost corrected 32t AB oval ring on a set of Canfield cranks and it hits the stay. It looks as if the notch on the chain stay is in the wrong spot (not close enough to the bb). I'm assuming that a 30t AB oval ring will fit so I am going to pick one of those up to try.
    I'm running a Race Face NW 32t on Shimano XT cranks (non-boost). I ran into the same issue as you when I first built up the bike. I couldn't insert the crank arm all the way without the 32t ring coming in contact with the chain stay. I ended up adding 1 extra spacer on the drive-side of the BB (so 2 spacers total). Now the 32t chain ring sits right inside that little notch of the chain stay. I'm running singlespeed, so I'm not sure how my chain line is. I'm thinking about converting to a 1x10 setup, so I'll post up my results after the conversion.

  8. #108
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    I picked up an AB 30t BB30 ring to fix my clearance issue. I'll post up pics once it is installed.

  9. #109
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    Can someone explain to me how two bikes ( Epo/N9) with a bb drop within a tenth of an inch, same fork lengths, and same head tube lengths have nearly .75" stack difference?
    Edit: Appears to be ex vs int headset diff.

  10. #110
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    Does anyone know what the HTA comes to when using a 120mm fork?

    I'm sure there is someway I could figure this out mathematically but I switched to a major that didn't require math after barely passing remedial algebra. So I'm a dumb quitter.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by timk125 View Post
    Does anyone know what the HTA comes to when using a 120mm fork?

    I'm sure there is someway I could figure this out mathematically but I switched to a major that didn't require math after barely passing remedial algebra. So I'm a dumb quitter.
    It's about a degree for each 20mm. It's 66.5 for a 140...so about 67.5 on the 120mm.


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  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jacobray View Post
    It's about a degree for each 20mm. It's 66.5 for a 140...so about 67.5 on the 120mm.
    Thanks!

  13. #113
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    Chainstay clearances

    Non boost GXP Stylo crank with 32t on the inside.
    -Clears, but barely
    -img_20161129_182753167.jpg

    GXP Canfield crank with AB oval boost 32t
    -Does not clear
    -img_20161129_183135533.jpg

    -img_20161129_183146083.jpg

    -img_20161129_183156797.jpg

    GXP Canfield crank with AB oval BB30 30t
    -Plenty of clearance, a 32+ would work easily too
    -img_20161129_183546297.jpg

    -img_20161129_184013539.jpg

    -img_20161129_184021963_top.jpg

    -img_20161129_184027135.jpg

  14. #114
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    Does anyone else have any experience with a 29+ setup?

  15. #115
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    some mo photos!

    Quote Originally Posted by nitrousjunky View Post
    Pics of chainstay clearance?
    -img_6248.jpg-img_6221.jpg-img_6220.jpg-img_6219.jpg-img_6218.jpg-img_6246.jpg

  16. #116
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    So it's taken me awhile to start this bike build. Almost finished with it now.

    Plan on adding a 9.8 dropper post, and need to mount up my new tires.

    -img_20161224_220614015.jpg

    Also, shot a quick comparo vid of the new frame vs my older gen 2 frame that some of you may find interesting.


  17. #117
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    A little bit closer.

    -img_20161225_160055470.jpg

  18. #118
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    Killington- can you please comment on the chain ring fit issues above? What chain ring size is the bike designed to fit @ 52mm chainline? Same for eliptical? Apologies if this is on the website, I can't find the info.

    Also, has anyone tried to put a i40 Scraper with a 2.8 or 3 inch tire? How is the clearance?

  19. #119
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    It's designed to a 52mm chainline and fit up to a 34 tooth ring. It's meant to be tight so there's no chain suck. Each frame is checked with a jig that verifies that fit.
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  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by flymybike View Post
    It's designed to a 52mm chainline and fit up to a 34 tooth ring. It's meant to be tight so there's no chain suck. Each frame is checked with a jig that verifies that fit.
    Excellent, thanks

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  21. #121
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    Just finished the build. Now I know why they named the frame "Nimble 9". Looking forward to enjoying this thing.

    -dsc_0443.jpg

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by gambit023 View Post
    Just finished the build. Now I know why they named the frame "Nimble 9". Looking forward to enjoying this thing.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC_0443.jpg 
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    Man I love that color. Good looking build!

  23. #123
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    Finished for now. Once my dropper shows up, I'll tidy up the cables. Currently, it sits at 28 pounds even.

    -img_20170101_162956564.jpg

    -img_20170101_163005557.jpg

    -img_20170101_163032986.jpg

    And a couple of clearance pics.

    -img_20170101_163042907.jpg

    -img_20170101_163105085.jpg

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by KillingtonVT View Post
    We did a total redesign on the gen 3 dropouts to save weight, unfortunately, the gen 2 dropouts won't fit the new frames.

    We are producing a VERY LIMITED amount of 142x12mm dropouts for the new N9 Boost to help our riders get by until they upgrade to a 148x12mm wheel. Just keep in mind the new frame was designed around Boost with a 52mm chainline, not the 49mm chainline standard that should go with a 142x12mm rear.
    With that chainline difference, will the 142mm dropouts still work well if they're combined with NextSL G4 cranks for a singlespeed setup?

    I'm considering this frame to swap between my older 142mm 29er wheels and some new carbon 148mm 27.5+ hoops, but this chainline math is really confusing the hell out of me...lol

    Since it's singlespeed, is this something I can easily solve in the rear with spacers on either side of the rear cog?

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by paleh0rse View Post
    With that chainline difference, will the 142mm dropouts still work well if they're combined with NextSL G4 cranks for a singlespeed setup?

    I'm considering this frame to swap between my older 142mm 29er wheels and some new carbon 148mm 27.5+ hoops, but this chainline math is really confusing the hell out of me...lol

    Since it's singlespeed, is this something I can easily solve in the rear with spacers on either side of the rear cog?
    As long as your chainring clears the stay, you should be able to adjust your rear cog to get a correct chainline.

  26. #126
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    Does anyone know which exact CK headset cups I need to run a tapered Fox fork with this frame?

    Found a good deal on a Fox Factory 34 27.5+ 140mm, so I might as well build a new N9! lol

  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by paleh0rse View Post
    Does anyone know which exact CK headset cups I need to run a tapered Fox fork with this frame?

    Found a good deal on a Fox Factory 34 27.5+ 140mm, so I might as well build a new N9! lol
    It should be an Inset 7. That said, I have both a CK on a gen 3 N9, and a Cane Creek 110 on my 2017 N9, and I like the CC better. It holds the top of the steerer more securely.

  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubthang View Post
    It should be an Inset 7. That said, I have both a CK on a gen 3 N9, and a Cane Creek 110 on my 2017 N9, and I like the CC better. It holds the top of the steerer more securely.
    Is that the CC that Canfield sells with the boost frame/headset combo on their site?

  29. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by paleh0rse View Post
    Is that the CC that Canfield sells with the boost frame/headset combo on their site?
    Canfield offers the CC 40 which is not the 110. There is not a lot of difference between the two though. The 40 is an excellent mid-range headset while the 110 is a CK level piece.

    I bet Canfield could get you a 110 is you called them up.

  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubthang View Post
    Canfield offers the CC 40 which is not the 110. There is not a lot of difference between the two though. The 40 is an excellent mid-range headset while the 110 is a CK level piece.

    I bet Canfield could get you a 110 is you called them up.
    More great info, thank you!

    Are there specific cups I need for the 110 series to work with a tapered fork in this frame?

    My only remaining decision is frame color...

  31. #131
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    BAA0762? 110-Series ZS44|EC44 - Tapered Steerer

    The question mark is a place holder. The digit changes based on the color of the headset.

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by dubthang View Post
    BAA0762?110-Series ZS44|EC44 - Tapered Steerer

    The question mark is a place holder. The digit changes based on the color of the headset.
    Perfect, thanks again!

  33. #133
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    Every person who has jumped on this beast has the same first words.... "this is a FUN bike!"[/QUOTE]

    ***************
    The bike looks incredible...You do a great job with all of your builds!

    How are folks not getting tire rub with this plus clearance? I'm getting rub on my RIOT (non-plus) with 29in Minions @ 2.5 with spokes tensioned properly on 30ID SPANKS. It happens on hard cornering and mash climbs. I don't get it...

  34. #134
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    Is anyone running RF NextSL cinch cranks on this new frame? If so, did you have any issues with the required 30mm bottom brackets or chainline?
    Last edited by paleh0rse; 01-06-2017 at 09:03 AM.

  35. #135
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  36. #136
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    Sounds like you need to do a once over on your Riot, check all the pivots, rear axle, hub for something loose.
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  37. #137
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    Finally Built mine up and out for the first ride today




  38. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by CVrider View Post
    Finally Built mine up and out for the first ride today



    Is that a 2017?

    Does the black have metal flake?

    Any close up pics?


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  39. #139
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    Yes it does have metal flake. Looks like blue and silver flakes


  40. #140
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    Thanks for the pic!


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  41. #141
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    Does any try use Nimble with 3.0 tires on 35 mm rim?

  42. #142
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    Still available?
    "too weird to live, too rare to die"

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by slapmackie View Post
    Still available?
    Nope


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  44. #144
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    Damn!
    "too weird to live, too rare to die"

  45. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by slapmackie View Post
    Damn!
    Interested in a 2014 M?


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  46. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by q232 View Post
    Does any try use Nimble with 3.0 tires on 35 mm rim?
    Did you get an answer on this?

  47. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain_America1976 View Post
    Did you get an answer on this?
    To reduce to possibly of damaging your frame, our recommendation on + tires is:
    650b+ compatibility – Up to 35i rim/2.8 tire

  48. #148
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    What's the widest 29" tire that will fit?
    Thanks

  49. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by jr711 View Post
    What's the widest 29" tire that will fit?
    Thanks
    We design around a 29"-2.5. Everything is a compromise with bike design, keeping our CS's as short as they are always presents it's challenges.

    Hope that helps!

  50. #150
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    Any xl riders upgrade from 2013ish to current nn? Details on the experience? I'm really eyballing the extra reach but its not like I dislike my current 2013.

  51. #151
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    New question here.

    Another chainring question... I called CFB over the weekend and left a message about this, but I figured I'd post up here as well.

    For a boost setup, If I want to run a raceface aeffect crank, what chainring and spacer setup can I install? Before reading this thread, I tried a boost 32T AB oval ring and that was definitely a no go.

    I then tried the standard raceface 32T ring that came on the crank, and still no go. Will the standard 32T ring fit with 2 spacers and also accomodate the 52mm chainline that I should run, or will I need 2 spacers and also a boost chainring? Anybody had luck running any size oval with boost in the rear?

    Any input is much appreciated. So pumped to complete my first ground up build !
    roots, rocks, logs, downhills, jumps, drops, chutes, climbs...repeat

  52. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by sshapiro112 View Post
    Another chainring question... I called CFB over the weekend and left a message about this, but I figured I'd post up here as well.

    For a boost setup, If I want to run a raceface aeffect crank, what chainring and spacer setup can I install? Before reading this thread, I tried a boost 32T AB oval ring and that was definitely a no go.

    I then tried the standard raceface 32T ring that came on the crank, and still no go. Will the standard 32T ring fit with 2 spacers and also accomodate the 52mm chainline that I should run, or will I need 2 spacers and also a boost chainring? Anybody had luck running any size oval with boost in the rear?

    Any input is much appreciated. So pumped to complete my first ground up build !
    I don't know about the spacers, but the difference between the boost ring and non boost ring is 3mm. A 30T AB oval will fit, but a 32T one really is a 34T.

  53. #153
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    I went back and re-read this thread, and specifically, dubthang's posts. I am returning the 32T Absolute Black oval boost ring and picking up a 30T Absolute Black oval standard offset ring. Should be good on clearence as long as I move the 1mm rubber spacer supposedly supplied on the non-drive side of my Raceface aeffect crank over to the drive side.
    roots, rocks, logs, downhills, jumps, drops, chutes, climbs...repeat

  54. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by sshapiro112 View Post
    I went back and re-read this thread, and specifically, dubthang's posts. I am returning the 32T Absolute Black oval boost ring and picking up a 30T Absolute Black oval standard offset ring. Should be good on clearence as long as I move the 1mm rubber spacer supposedly supplied on the non-drive side of my Raceface aeffect crank over to the drive side.
    I'd buy the Boost ring over the standard offset.

  55. #155
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    That's what your running ? It seemed like the standard RF 32T ring was closer to correct than the boost offset absolute black ring that I tried, but obviously I am having some trouble understanding the situation here.

    The boost ring dishes 3mm. If mounted so that the alignment dimple is visible, the dish moves the teeth closer to the BB and the frame as opposed to farther ( appears to me to decrease chainline instead of increase ).

    My buddy has a 2016 Santa Cruz hightower that is specced with a raceface aeffect crank that I believe is the same as mine, and his ring appears to be standard even though that frame is boost setup. That is adding to my confusion, because I though from the getgo that I would need the boost offset ring like you are saying.
    roots, rocks, logs, downhills, jumps, drops, chutes, climbs...repeat

  56. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by sshapiro112 View Post
    That's what your running ? It seemed like the standard RF 32T ring was closer to correct than the boost offset absolute black ring that I tried, but obviously I am having some trouble understanding the situation here.

    The boost ring dishes 3mm. If mounted so that the alignment dimple is visible, the dish moves the teeth closer to the BB and the frame as opposed to farther ( appears to me to decrease chainline instead of increase ).

    My buddy has a 2016 Santa Cruz hightower that is specced with a raceface aeffect crank that I believe is the same as mine, and his ring appears to be standard even though that frame is boost setup. That is adding to my confusion, because I though from the getgo that I would need the boost offset ring like you are saying.
    The boost ring moves the teeth away from the bb. A stock ring is 6mm toward the bb. A boost ring is 3mm. I am using a BB30 ring (Sram only) for zero offset which results in plently of clearance with the chainstay.

  57. #157
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    Use what you need to clear the chainstays, but the honest fact is, you DO NOT need your chainline spaced any further out with a 148 rear, in fact, using the what was current standard cranks that run 50-52mm chainline is now putting the rings in the right place relative to the cassette. If you use the new BS Boost standard spacing, you will run into issues with chainline, just like you used to with older 135/142, most notably if you try to back pedal in the big cog, as chain angle is so extreme.

    FYI, on my Phantom I run the 150x12 rear with normal XT cranks using the inner and middle position and have near perfect chainline. The only reason to run your rings further out would be to accommodate if you're running a very big tyre that may have the chain rubbing on the tyre in the big cog/granny combo/1x.

    Quote Originally Posted by sshapiro112 View Post
    That's what your running ? It seemed like the standard RF 32T ring was closer to correct than the boost offset absolute black ring that I tried, but obviously I am having some trouble understanding the situation here.

    The boost ring dishes 3mm. If mounted so that the alignment dimple is visible, the dish moves the teeth closer to the BB and the frame as opposed to farther ( appears to me to decrease chainline instead of increase ).

    My buddy has a 2016 Santa Cruz hightower that is specced with a raceface aeffect crank that I believe is the same as mine, and his ring appears to be standard even though that frame is boost setup. That is adding to my confusion, because I though from the getgo that I would need the boost offset ring like you are saying.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  58. #158
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    Nimble 9 Boost – Now In Stock!

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Use what you need to clear the chainstays, but the honest fact is, you DO NOT need your chainline spaced any further out with a 148 rear, in fact, using the what was current standard cranks that run 50-52mm chainline is now putting the rings in the right place relative to the cassette. If you use the new BS Boost standard spacing, you will run into issues with chainline, just like you used to with older 135/142, most notably if you try to back pedal in the big cog, as chain angle is so extreme.

    FYI, on my Phantom I run the 150x12 rear with normal XT cranks using the inner and middle position and have near perfect chainline. The only reason to run your rings further out would be to accommodate if you're running a very big tyre that may have the chain rubbing on the tyre in the big cog/granny combo/1x.
    Having built a N9 boost. It needs a boost crank from Shimano or Boost offset chainring to clear the chainstay. The Canfield Brothers designed a notch in the chainstay for the rings to clear but with boost spacing chainline of 52mm. Check out post #113 for some chainring clearance photos.


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  59. #159
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    Based on what I am seeing in the Raceface technical documents and what I heard from an employee at RF: the RF Aeffect crank that I have is setup for a 50-52(mm) chainline depending on if you use the supplied rubber 1mm spacers (which I didnt know about until talking to that Raceface technical support employee) on the drive, or non-drive side.

    That being said, it's looking like a standard offset ring along with both of the spacers on the drive side, will give me the desired chainline for this build. I will report back with results when I can get this together. My trip to Killington VT to snowboard was perfectly planned this week with the incoming snow.
    Last edited by sshapiro112; 03-14-2017 at 11:06 AM.
    roots, rocks, logs, downhills, jumps, drops, chutes, climbs...repeat

  60. #160
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    Nimble 9 Boost – Now In Stock!

    I think a Nimble 9 Boost / Crank/Chainring fitment thread is in order.

    I've had N9's beginning with Gen 1 and they had close or very close clearance at the chainstays with a 32T chainring.

    I anticipate many having issues especially as we transition from current crank/chainring combos to Boost spacing. Especially with the N9 that seems to have very tight clearance, at least in my experience.



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  61. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by racefit View Post
    I think a Nimble 9 Boost / Crank/Chainring fitment thread is in order.

    I've had N9's beginning with Gen 1 and they had close or very close clearance at the chainstays with a 32T chainring.

    I anticipate many having issues especially as we transition from current crank/chainring combos to Boost spacing. Especially with the N9 that seems to have very tight clearance, at least in my experience.



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    Good idea. I'll start one.

  62. #162
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    -img_3148.2.jpg
    Haven't been able to ride it yet.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -img_3148.2.jpg  

    Last edited by Neitzel; 03-20-2017 at 08:53 AM. Reason: picture correction

  63. #163
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    Nimble 9 Boost – Now In Stock!

    Quote Originally Posted by Neitzel View Post
    -img_3148.2.jpg
    Haven't been able to ride it yet.
    Looks like what I'm about to build.

    Did you go with 27.5 or 29 version of the DVO fork? What travel is it set at?

    Rim and tire sizes?

    Looks great!

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  64. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by racefit View Post
    Looks like what I'm about to build.

    Did you go with 27.5 or 29 version of the DVO fork? What travel is it set at?

    Rim and tire sizes?

    Looks great!
    Thanks, really looking forward to getting some miles on it.

    The fork is a 29 set at 140mm.

    NN 2.8 front
    RR 2.8 rear

    NOX Kitsuma 27.5xi35 rims

  65. #165
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    Are rims 35mm inside diameter?


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  66. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by racefit View Post
    Are rims 35mm inside diameter?

    Cost?


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  67. #167
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    Rims are 36mm inside.

    Complete wheel set was $1800 before Shipping & discount. Through ProWheelBuilder.com
    Last edited by Neitzel; 03-20-2017 at 07:41 PM. Reason: measurement correction

  68. #168
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    Thanks!


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  69. #169
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    Been riding 29 kitsuma with 2.5 DHF on front and I9 360 with 2.8 DHR and it rips the DH flow and chunky. Highly recommend


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  70. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by ceblanch View Post
    Been riding 29 kitsuma with 2.5 DHF on front and I9 360 with 2.8 DHR and it rips the DH flow and chunky. Highly recommend


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    29er up front with 27.5 plus rear? Let's see some photos


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  71. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by ceblanch View Post
    Been riding 29 kitsuma with 2.5 DHF on front and I9 360 with 2.8 DHR and it rips the DH flow and chunky. Highly recommend


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    https://youtu.be/1HY_nwi29Ik

    That's a mouthful of code, right there. ;-)

  72. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamkeith View Post
    https://youtu.be/1HY_nwi29Ik

    That's a mouthful of code, right there. ;-)
    MTBR short hand


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  73. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolhand80 View Post
    29er up front with 27.5 plus rear? Let's see some photos


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  74. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neitzel View Post
    Rims are 36mm inside.

    Complete wheel set was $1800 before Shipping & discount. Through ProWheelBuilder.com
    Would you be able to take BB height measurement? Just bottom of shell to ground.


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  75. #175
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    About 11 1/2" to the bottom of the shell.
    12 1/8-ish to the center.

  76. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neitzel View Post
    About 11 1/2" to the bottom of the shell.
    12 1/8-ish to the center.
    Thanks!

    Did you go with the 27.5 or 29 Boost DVO?


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  77. #177
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    Quote Originally Posted by racefit View Post
    Thanks!

    Did you go with the 27.5 or 29 Boost DVO?


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    29"

  78. #178
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    Got a few miles in the other day. We still don't have dry trails here yet, so it was a mix of dirt and pavement.

    Current observations...

    -Winter has made me a giant *****.

    -The new frame definitely rides differently than my old gen 2 frame. While the front is longer (which is great), I am more over the bb due to the revised seat tube angle. This in not a bad thing. It just means that I need to adjust my riding style a wee bit.

    -The more upright seat tube loves a dropper post. It's nice to be able to ditch the saddle for maneuvering since I am slightly more forward on the bike.

  79. #179
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    ... and if we just ... Build Progress

    Here is a picture of my 2017 that I built up as a 27.5+. The build isnt finalized yet, but pretty close.

    Frame: 2017 Large Nimble 9 w/Cane Creek 40 headset
    Fork: Straight Steerer X-fusion Trace RL2 @ 140mm (from my Parkwood)
    Bottom Bracket: Hope stainless

    Derailleur setup: Sram GX with Sram cassette 10-42
    Cranks: Raceface Aeffect Cinch w/28t ring
    Pedals: Spank Spike (not shown)
    Wheels: Spank Oozy Trail 395 (35mm iw) laced to Hope Pro 4 hubs
    Front Tire: Specialized Butcher 2.8
    Rear Tire: Specialized Slaughter 2.8

    Seatpost: Fox Transfer 150mm dropper
    Seat: WTB Volt
    Stem: cheap Kore 60mm for now but going to try a 70mm
    Bars: Nukeproof Warhead 800mm but my grips are set @ 760mm right now
    Grips: Odi Rogue lock-on
    Brakes: Shimano SLX and XT w/ 180mm rotors front and rear
    -oi000001.jpg

    Damn this is a fun bike. Have 2 rides and 26 miles on it so far. The rear end wants to pop off of everything which makes it feel extremely playful. I'm having some pedal strikes at this height, but nothing I can't adjust to. The plus tires feel like cheating around turns but do have a noticeable drag element to them. Its a trade off i'm willing to accept as of now.
    roots, rocks, logs, downhills, jumps, drops, chutes, climbs...repeat

  80. #180
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    ^^^^
    Nice build.

    I'm running shorter cranks on mine do to pedal strikes on my previous N9.

  81. #181
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    So finally got my N9 built up and out for its first ride. First thing I noticed is this bike is a monster! Climbs amazing and the down hills are so much fun. I was coming from a Sir9 and was worried about it not being as complient but I was way way wrong. Frame is super smooth.

    I ran into the chainring hitting the frame as well with my raceface turbine cinch. I called raceface and their advice was to flip the chainring. As soon as I did that I had a 52mm chain line with plenty of frame clearance.

    Here is my build. 25 pounds all up.

    Frame- 2017 med Canfield Nimble 9 black
    Fork- 2016 Rockshox Pike 140mm boost
    Headset- Canecreek 40
    Stem- Thomson X4 70mm
    Bar- Raceface Next SL
    Grips- Raceface Half Nelson
    Brakes- Shimano XT 180mm Front 160mm Rear
    Cranks- Raceface Turbine Cinch 32t
    BB- Raceface
    Pedals- Canfield Crampon Ultimate
    Seatpost- Thomson
    Seat- Raceface Affect
    Wheels- Hope Pro4 laced to Easton Arc 24's
    Rear cog- Abo****e Black SS 20t
    Chain- KMC x10
    Tire front- Schwalbe Hans Dampf 2.35
    Tire rear- Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.35

    Probably going to add a dropper post and up the rear rotor to a 180mm. Other than that super stoked on the build!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -p1010367.jpg  


  82. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenaiking View Post
    So finally got my N9 built up and out for its first ride. First thing I noticed is this bike is a monster! Climbs amazing and the down hills are so much fun. I was coming from a Sir9 and was worried about it not being as complient but I was way way wrong. Frame is super smooth.

    I ran into the chainring hitting the frame as well with my raceface turbine cinch. I called raceface and their advice was to flip the chainring. As soon as I did that I had a 52mm chain line with plenty of frame clearance.

    Here is my build. 25 pounds all up.

    Frame- 2017 med Canfield Nimble 9 black
    Fork- 2016 Rockshox Pike 140mm boost
    Headset- Canecreek 40
    Stem- Thomson X4 70mm
    Bar- Raceface Next SL
    Grips- Raceface Half Nelson
    Brakes- Shimano XT 180mm Front 160mm Rear
    Cranks- Raceface Turbine Cinch 32t
    BB- Raceface
    Pedals- Canfield Crampon Ultimate
    Seatpost- Thomson
    Seat- Raceface Affect
    Wheels- Hope Pro4 laced to Easton Arc 24's
    Rear cog- Abo****e Black SS 20t
    Chain- KMC x10
    Tire front- Schwalbe Hans Dampf 2.35
    Tire rear- Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.35

    Probably going to add a dropper post and up the rear rotor to a 180mm. Other than that super stoked on the build!
    My medium nimble nine boost is on eBay frame only Chris King headset

  83. #183
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    Nimble 9 Boost – Now In Stock!

    Finally got my new ride together; the gen 1 lasted me quite a long time. First ride in today--what a blast; its a lot more Nimble than the Gen1. I'm on gentle riding detail while I wait for my SLAP tear to heal. Once I'm cleared to get out really ride, it's going to be a shred fest.

    2017 Boost - Small
    DVO Diamond Boost - steerer still needs cutting
    Brand-X Dropper
    Ergon saddle
    Thompson 70mm Stem
    CrankBrothers carbon bars
    Egron GE1 Grips
    Avid Code R Brakes
    Hope Evo4 Hubs
    WTB KOM i29 Rims
    Nobby Nic 29x2.6
    XT 1x11 Drivetrain
    Blackspire Sub4 pedals


    -nimbleboost1.jpg

    -nimbleboost2.jpg
    - Canfield Nimble 9 - Retired
    Niner Rip 9 (2016)
    Canfield Nimble 9 Boost (2017)

  84. #184
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    Are you running the Nobby Nic 29x2.6's in the rear also? If so, are your dropouts slammed forward or did you have to move them back?



    Quote Originally Posted by MyMilkExpired View Post
    Finally got my new ride together; the gen 1 lasted me quite a long time. First ride in today--what a blast; its a lot more Nimble than the Gen1. I'm on gentle riding detail while I wait for my SLAP tear to heal. Once I'm cleared to get out really ride, it's going to be a shred fest.

    2017 Boost - Small
    DVO Diamond Boost - steerer still needs cutting
    Brand-X Dropper
    Ergon saddle
    Thompson 70mm Stem
    CrankBrothers carbon bars
    Egron GE1 Grips
    Avid Code R Brakes
    Hope Evo4 Hubs
    WTB KOM i29 Rims
    Nobby Nic 29x2.6
    XT 1x11 Drivetrain
    Blackspire Sub4 pedals


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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  85. #185
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    Nimble 9 Boost – Now In Stock!

    Quote Originally Posted by gambit023 View Post
    Are you running the Nobby Nic 29x2.6's in the rear also? If so, are your dropouts slammed forward or did you have to move them back?
    Running them front and back. Dropouts are almost slammed. Maybe 6-7mm from full forward.


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    - Canfield Nimble 9 - Retired
    Niner Rip 9 (2016)
    Canfield Nimble 9 Boost (2017)

  86. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyMilkExpired View Post
    Finally got my new ride together; the gen 1 lasted me quite a long time. First ride in today--what a blast; its a lot more Nimble than the Gen1. I'm on gentle riding detail while I wait for my SLAP tear to heal. Once I'm cleared to get out really ride, it's going to be a shred fest.

    2017 Boost - Small
    DVO Diamond Boost - steerer still needs cutting
    Brand-X Dropper
    Ergon saddle
    Thompson 70mm Stem
    CrankBrothers carbon bars
    Egron GE1 Grips
    Avid Code R Brakes
    Hope Evo4 Hubs
    WTB KOM i29 Rims
    Nobby Nic 29x2.6
    XT 1x11 Drivetrain
    Blackspire Sub4 pedals


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Can you give a report and/or pics on your front chainring clearance?


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  87. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by racefit View Post
    Can you give a report and/or pics on your front chainring clearance?


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    Front setup is XTR bottom bracket with 2 drive side spacers; 32 tooth ring.






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    - Canfield Nimble 9 - Retired
    Niner Rip 9 (2016)
    Canfield Nimble 9 Boost (2017)

  88. #188
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    Sweet looking bike!

    One thing that would be holding me back is the tire clearance, maybe. The pics of the 29x3" knards are missing. I see that alot w photobucket. Any chance we can get a pic of that in the rear stays?
    Thanks

    So I could run my old 9s xtr triple cranks as 1x on this? Either in the middle or outer 104 bcd position?

    The above xtr looks like a 2x crank
    The tires are the things on your bike that make contact with the trail.

  89. #189
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    Anybody have a boost xl nn9 frame to sell?

    All they have left is chrome and I like color.

  90. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by drdre View Post
    All they have left is chrome and I like color.
    According to their web store they have lots of flavors in all sizes. My large orange arrives today!


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  91. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolhand80 View Post
    According to their web store they have lots of flavors in all sizes. My large orange arrives today!


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    What? You think I just made that up?

  92. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by drdre View Post
    What? You think I just made that up?
    Nope. Just letting you know. I am guessing you emailed the Bros


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  93. #193
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    Yes, I've communicated with them. In XL, they only have chrome. The website options dont represent their stock.

    So, still looking for an xl boost nn9 in a color. Anybody?

  94. #194
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    Anyone have info on the fit of 29+ in rear?

    Maybe 2.5 is enough but would like the option. Earlier on Rsullivan had a 29 x 3.0 in the back but the pics are gone.

    Rsullivan- ya mind digging some of those pics up?

    photobucket kicked the bucket!
    The tires are the things on your bike that make contact with the trail.

  95. #195
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    The nimble 9 does not need a boost crank? Does it?

    Seems not to but I don't see anyone mention it here in the theead. I know the new Krampus runs the boost crank.
    The tires are the things on your bike that make contact with the trail.

  96. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kirkerik View Post
    The nimble 9 does not need a boost crank? Does it?

    Seems not to but I don't see anyone mention it here in the theead. I know the new Krampus runs the boost crank.
    It needs a boost crank or boost offset direct mount chainring. Chainline is 52mm. What crank do you have now?


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  97. #197
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    A thread in another subforum offered a hack that would allow you to see photos lost to FotoPhuckit's shenanigans. I didin't have the patience to figure it out, but maybe someone else can:

    if you put "~original" at the end of the image link right after the jpg befor the close img tage, it rehacks them into existance...

    If I recall correctly, those Knards did not really work. Agree that it would be nice to fit some bigger 29 inch tires though, even if not quite knard-big. In my perfect world, these frames will shift to 157 rear spacing instead of this flash-in-the-pan boost spacing thing, so we can use existing downhill or super-boost hub and bb standards. Q-factor be damned.

    I was wondering why there was so much activity here, but now understand that the frames were re-stocked. Does anybody have a picture of the purple? My interest is piqued!
    We still hang bike thieves in Wyoming [Pedal House]

  98. #198
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    Orange!!!!!!


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  99. #199
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolhand80 View Post
    It needs a boost crank or boost offset direct mount chainring. Chainline is 52mm. What crank do you have now?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I have an XTR triple 9 speed

    maybe a wolftooth CR would work. I'm looking at a 1x or 2x setup at worst

    thanks
    The tires are the things on your bike that make contact with the trail.

  100. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamkeith View Post
    A thread in another subforum offered a hack that would allow you to see photos lost to FotoPhuckit's shenanigans. I didin't have the patience to figure it out, but maybe someone else can:

    if you put "~original" at the end of the image link right after the jpg befor the close img tage, it rehacks them into existance...

    If I recall correctly, those Knards did not really work. Agree that it would be nice to fit some bigger 29 inch tires though, even if not quite knard-big. In my perfect world, these frames will shift to 157 rear spacing instead of this flash-in-the-pan boost spacing thing, so we can use existing downhill or super-boost hub and bb standards. Q-factor be damned.

    I was wondering why there was so much activity here, but now understand that the frames were re-stocked. Does anybody have a picture of the purple? My interest is piqued!
    Agreed. I guess q-factor is the reason they went w a new axle size. Nothing wrong w the downhill spacing. WTH? If they went w 150/157 then maybe it would have given the downhillers some options too.

    I've been riding my 170/177 spaced crankset on my 197 rear end 907 whiteout w no issue in regards to q factor. Has not bothered me a bit.
    The tires are the things on your bike that make contact with the trail.

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