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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleHelix View Post
    Since I dont actually have my rear brake attached I dont have much input. On my Karate Monkey I had to remove the brake to remove the wheel so it's not completely unheard of.



    Yeah matte black with matte carbon fork. I really love all their paint colors. My first mountain bike was the same color as their orange. The chrome is killer too.
    I'm using a 10mm bolt on Woodman single speed hub but I've used them on frames with sliders before with no problems. I shouldn't have to mess with the brakes after the initial set up, that's the beauty of sliders as opposed to track ends like I had on my previous bike and your Karate Monkey. I was told that a wavy rotor may work I don't know but it's a bit frustrating. If you look closely I've added some spacers maybe 1-2mm spacers between the post mounts and the brakes and even with these spacers it's impossible to remove the rear wheel without loosening up the brakes. I'm going to send them some of these pics and hopefully we can get this resolved. <a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/djembe975/IMG_1002_zpsa15694cc.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1002_zpsa15694cc.jpg"/></a>
    <a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/djembe975/IMG_1001_zpsec4fe3a5.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1001_zpsec4fe3a5.jpg"/></a>
    <a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/djembe975/IMG_1000_zps80e326e3.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1000_zps80e326e3.jpg"/></a>
    <a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/djembe975/IMG_0999_zps9d49dbfc.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0999_zps9d49dbfc.jpg"/></a>
    <a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/djembe975/IMG_0997_zpsa5d148e4.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0997_zpsa5d148e4.jpg"/></a>

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    What's the fork? Chinese or name brand? I'd love a niner fork but $500 is a bit daunting. I lean towards it though because of the no weight limit claim.
    It's a whisky fork. I have a thread going on it in the 29er component sections:
    Whisky No. 9 15mm TA opinions

    Quote Originally Posted by djembe975 View Post
    I'm using a 10mm bolt on Woodman single speed hub but I've used them on frames with sliders before with no problems. I shouldn't have to mess with the brakes after the initial set up, that's the beauty of sliders as opposed to track ends like I had on my previous bike and your Karate Monkey. I was told that a wavy rotor may work I don't know but it's a bit frustrating. If you look closely I've added some spacers maybe 1-2mm spacers between the post mounts and the brakes and even with these spacers it's impossible to remove the rear wheel without loosening up the brakes. I'm going to send them some of these pics and hopefully we can get this resolved.
    The frame has some clearance issues with brakes that are mounted directly to the sliding frame mount.

    Most calipers that mount direct are for a 140mm rear. On a Hope brake the banjo is on the outside, which will hit the frame in going direct to the frame for a 140mm rotor:
    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-imag0155.jpg

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-imag0159.jpg

    This isnt an issue so much since most people dont use 140mm rotors.

    Hayes uses a 22mm direct mount caliper for 160mm which might be a problem, I might have some in a bin that I can test to see...

    djembe975, to fit a Shimano caliper to a 160mm rotor on the rear you should use the a front 180mm adapter.
    Shimano F180P/P or Shimano F180P/P2 (second one is lighter). With the brake adapter I assume you would have lots of clearance. Havent slept in a couple days so I think thats right...

    Side note, seeing your replacement bolts for the sliders is definitely something I'll have to do now.
    Last edited by DoubleHelix; 06-15-2013 at 09:33 PM.

  3. #203
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    Looking forward to seeing more of these built up. That flat black is killer!

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleHelix View Post
    It's a whisky fork. I have a thread going on it in the 29er component sections:
    Whisky No. 9 15mm TA opinions



    The frame has some clearance issues with brakes that are mounted directly to the sliding frame mount.

    Most calipers that mount direct are for a 140mm rear. On a Hope brake the banjo is on the outside, which will hit the frame in going direct to the frame for a 140mm rotor:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    This isnt an issue so much since most people dont use 140mm rotors.

    Hayes uses a 22mm direct mount caliper for 160mm which might be a problem, I might have some in a bin that I can test to see...

    djembe975, to fit a Shimano caliper to a 160mm rotor on the rear you should use the a front 180mm adapter.
    Shimano F180P/P or Shimano F180P/P2 (second one is lighter). With the brake adapter I assume you would have lots of clearance. Havent slept in a couple days so I think thats right...

    Side note, seeing your replacement bolts for the sliders is definitely something I'll have to do now.
    I was told by my mechanic that shimano brakes don't need adapters when bolting to the post mount. Even with the small spacers I have installed it's still impossible to remove the rear wheel without loosening the calipers. I sent them the pics and hopefully they can offer some solutions. Oh, and in case anyone is wondering, those bolts are from a Kona frame and are used on the Unit and Honco, they are a bit more heavy duty then the stock ones, now I just have to change the tension screws for an allen head type at the local hardware store.

  5. #205
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    Crap I was thinking P/P front to IS/P rear...

    Yeah you shouldnt need an adapter for the shimano since P/P front is the same as P/P rear dimension.

  6. #206
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    so what are my options as I'm already using some spacers and I still can't remove my wheel without loosening up my calipers?

  7. #207
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    Can you add more washers? I had to add 5mm and 7mm of washers to the rear caliper of my TransAM frame. Longer bolts might be required but can be found at any bike shop if you don't have some spares laying around.

    The thing to keep an eye on is where to pads are contacting the rotor. Too few or too many washers could cause them not to align perfectly.

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    Can you add more washers? I had to add 5mm and 7mm of washers to the rear caliper of my TransAM frame. Longer bolts might be required but can be found at any bike shop if you don't have some spares laying around.

    The thing to keep an eye on is where to pads are contacting the rotor. Too few or too many washers could cause them not to align perfectly.
    I didnt have the washer stack that would make it work at the moment, pushed the caliper to far out so the pads didnt align well.

    What I did for a temp fix is install the 160 on the front and the 183 on the rear, not ideal but I have two functioning brakes at least. I might just get another 183 rotor and bracket and run it on both front and rear.

  9. #209
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    Just wondering where you got the Whiskey #9? I can't find one in stock.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    Just wondering where you got the Whiskey #9? I can't find one in stock.
    There was only about nine in stock when I ordered, currently they are out of stock. I ordered it though the bike shop I work at.

  11. #211
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    They as in your shop or they as in Whiskey Parts Co.?

  12. #212
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    oh yeah! what can brown do for me? drop off a shiny chrome xl n9. even looks more sic in person. crc where's my bits?!

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    They as in your shop or they as in Whiskey Parts Co.?
    Nevermind...found one in stock!

  14. #214
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    might go for a 650b build... its on a set of 26

  15. #215
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    OMG the welds.

    Now if only my hand wasn't broken. Can't ride it but I'm seriously considering sleeping with it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_1205.jpg  

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_1188.jpg  

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_1215.jpg  

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_1183.jpg  

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_1184.jpg  


  16. #216
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    I wouldn't want to take that chrome finish out of doors, surely it's not going to survive the first interface with a pebble?

  17. #217
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    mine's getting some 3m clear bra, see how long that lasts. yes the welds are mostly nice. i couldnt imagine a broken hand right now, i'd be going nutso. maybe, you can order your GF around on how to assemble, lol

  18. #218
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    I've got friend who rides a chromed out bike from the eighties. It seems to be holding up fine. Car bumpers were once all chrome as well and had to stand up to highway speed pebble strikes. It will get dinged up but still gleam nicely with pits not being noticeable except under close inspection. Or at least that's my justification for having paid extra for chrome.

  19. #219
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    Fun fact - chrome bumpers were shot with sand in the factory to strengthen the coating. They called it "pixie plating", as in pixie dust. There was a major bumper plant here back when chrome was king. I remember hearing stories about work there when I was a kid.

    That's not real chrome on the frame anyway, is it?
    Chasing bears through the woods drunk with a dull hatchet is strongly not advised

  20. #220
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    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    All my chrome BMX bikes in the 80's held up much better than the painted ones. Rust was more of an issue but easily avoided with minimal care.

    I hope my new N9 is real chrome as it will be nostalgically compared to my old BMX bikes...

  21. #221
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    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    If anyone decides a chrome xl nimble 9 isn't for them let me know. I would love one but canfield is already out.

  22. #222
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    the chrome and matte black are both sick looking! Can't wait to see a red built up (might powdercoat my Gen 1 red this fall)

  23. #223
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    Looks plated to me. Def not paint so I don't know what other method there could be. At the weep holes it has a copper tinge. On another note, I was looking in the head tube to see the ED treatment and didn't see a difference from raw steel. I talked with Sean if I needed to treat the tubes and he said it wasn't needed. You'd think that if they were treated there would be some kind of color/texture difference.

  24. #224
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    fishy - Mine was matte black inside. Definitely ED treated. What color is yours?
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  25. #225
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    Quickie lunchtime build (pluses of ss, and working from home!) Let's see if I can share images from FB:





    Parts transfer from my old bike, so nothing special. First impression on the driveway - this thing is going to land me on my back if I'm not careful! And never been able to make a U-Turn on a 29er in my driveway
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  26. #226
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    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Quote Originally Posted by wuzilla View Post
    Quickie lunchtime build (pluses of ss, and working from home!) Let's see if I can share images from FB:





    Parts transfer from my old bike, so nothing special. First impression on the driveway - this thing is going to land me on my back if I'm not careful! And never been able to make a U-Turn on a 29er in my driveway
    More info on the rubber ducky?? Looks great!!!

  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkidd_39 View Post
    More info on the rubber ducky?? Looks great!!!
    Lol - I was building a bike for a friend. There was a rubber ducky in my tool box for some reason, so I zip-tied it to the handlebars as a joke. My wife saw it and asked for one on her bike. Before I knew it, I had ordered a bag of them from amazon.com and was sticking them on all the bikes I built :P
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  28. #228
    squish, squish in da fish
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    Wuzilla my HT is raw metal inside along with BB. So I'm assuming all the other tubes are raw also. I'll have to talk with Sean I guess. Oh nice build by the way. Let us know how she handles

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by wuzilla View Post
    Quickie lunchtime build (pluses of ss, and working from home!) Let's see if I can share images from FB:

    ...

    Parts transfer from my old bike, so nothing special. First impression on the driveway - this thing is going to land me on my back if I'm not careful! And never been able to make a U-Turn on a 29er in my driveway
    How did the length of the rear brake line routing compare to the old nimble? Being on the down tube and chain stay, it seems like the line would need to be longer than on the previous nimble. Hopefully not too much though or it'll require buying brake parts and then bleeding.

  30. #230
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    How did the length of the rear brake line routing compare to the old nimble? Being on the down tube and chain stay, it seems like the line would need to be longer than on the previous nimble. Hopefully not too much though or it'll require buying brake parts and then bleeding.
    I transferred from a Kona Unit - however, looking at the line, although it swapped right over, it is a little shorter then before. Not enough for me to replace, but might be something to expect with your build.
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  31. #231
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    I really like what the Bros have done with this frame. Keep the build shots coming!
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  32. #232
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    Brake Rotor Clearance

    We have noticed a clearance issue when installing or removing the rear wheel on the New Nimble 9. Depending on the brake and rotor combination being used, the rotor may contact the caliper when installing or removing the rear wheel, preventing the wheel to move in and out of the dropout properly. With MOST brake/rotor combinations, the brake mounting hardware will need to be loosened for rear wheel installation and removal.

    As we completely understand this is not an ideal scenario, we are producing new dropouts for the Nimble 9 that will correct this issue. The new dropouts will mount the brake, via a post mount, above the seat stay for added clearance and will allow the use of a brakes and rotors 160mm and up. Production time is typically about a month, so we should have them in stock and shipping in about 5-6 weeks. In the meantime, please loosen your rear brake mounting hardware to install or remove
    your rear wheel.

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_2771.jpg

    I will keep you all in the loop as we have more information and updates. If you have any questions, feel free to contact either myself or Sean on this solution.

    Cheers,

    Vin

  33. #233
    squish, squish in da fish
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    Chrome frames are not ED treated the chrome will not stick to it. Guess I'm off to auto store to buy fogging oil.

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishwrinkle View Post
    Chrome frames are not ED treated the chrome will not stick to it. Guess I'm off to auto store to buy fogging oil.
    You are correct Sir! The PC'd frames are ED treated, and due to the plating process, we were not able to treat the Chromes the same way.
    Last edited by KillingtonVT; 06-19-2013 at 10:44 PM.

  35. #235
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    Received my N9 yesterday and had it put together lastnight (along with a few other boxe's) and will be testing it out tonight. Need to make some adjustments but over all feels good so far but am curious how it rides compared to my Yelli. Thank's again to Canfield

    Look's like i have most of the trail's in SoCal covered
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_20130618_123600_025.jpg  


  36. #236
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    Here is a few shot's on my N9 only and the only thing i need is a chainguide then i am done.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_20130618_120521_148.jpg  

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_20130618_120606_325.jpg  

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_20130618_120554_871.jpg  


  37. #237
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    HOLY **** SHE’S A SEXY BEAST!!!

    (Even if it doesn't have a single speed dropout)




  38. #238
    squish, squish in da fish
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    yes she is. green was my second choice

  39. #239
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    Yeah, doing green with red bits and pieces. I wasn't sure about the color until pictures got posted up. It's a super nice color for sure.

  40. #240
    squish, squish in da fish
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    Good deal. I'm doin' chrome n red. Unfortunately I gotta get a new hoop laced cuz mine is beyond repair. Might have to rock a Giant stock wheel til then. this thread is about to explode with sweet builds

  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by fishwrinkle View Post
    this thread is about to explode with sweet builds

    Yeah it is. Can't wait. I'll be tearing down my diSSent for most of the parts. Only thing new is the headset, fork, and seat post/clamp. I didn't need the fork but since this frame is a little pigish, I figured I'd save some weight getting a carbon rigid fork. I lock out my Manitou 99% of the time anyways.

    I'll rebuild the diSSent into an urban cruiser for around town fitness riding and the N9 will be my trail bike. Can't wait. I'll be ready to go as soon as the fork and headset arrive. Both have shipped so maybe by this weekend.

  42. #242
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    [QUOTE=Nubster;10477563]HOLY **** SHE’S A SEXY BEAST!!!

    (Even if it doesn't have a single speed dropout)




    LOVE the green! It's a really unique color that hasn't been done very often. Reminds me of a 60's muscle car!

  43. #243
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    Is there a color code for that green? I think it would be awesome to paint the fork to match. As it is, the fork will be matte black. If nothing else, I'd like to get a gloss on it. I think that would go better with the bike than matte. It was the only "color" in stock so I figured that was better than waiting weeks or more for the gloss version to get back in stock.

  44. #244
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    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    Is there a color code for that green? I think it would be awesome to paint the fork to match. As it is, the fork will be matte black. If nothing else, I'd like to get a gloss on it. I think that would go better with the bike than matte. It was the only "color" in stock so I figured that was better than waiting weeks or more for the gloss version to get back in stock.
    Jaguar British racing green. Classic color.

  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    Good for you. I'll keep riding my diSSent until there's a SS dropout available, then I'll think about getting a new frame.
    oh how the mighty have fallen

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpfitness View Post
    oh how the mighty have fallen

  47. #247
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    The seat tube has a plastic insert. What's the deal with that?

    I would assume it should be removed but it is slit exactly like the frame and the seatpost still fits.

  48. #248
    Canfield Brothers
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    It's an aluminum alloy shim. It's so you can have standard sized seat posts and clamps without having a crazy thick steel seat tube.
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  49. #249
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    Super!

    Is it an XL size?

    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    HOLY **** SHE’S A SEXY BEAST!!!

  50. #250
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    Yup. XL. I thought about going with the L but when comparing some of the specs with the specs on my XL diSSent, which is a little too big, I found that the XL N9 was slightly smaller so it seemed that it would be a great fit.

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