Page 3 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast
Results 201 to 300 of 657
  1. #201
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    626
    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleHelix View Post
    Since I dont actually have my rear brake attached I dont have much input. On my Karate Monkey I had to remove the brake to remove the wheel so it's not completely unheard of.



    Yeah matte black with matte carbon fork. I really love all their paint colors. My first mountain bike was the same color as their orange. The chrome is killer too.
    I'm using a 10mm bolt on Woodman single speed hub but I've used them on frames with sliders before with no problems. I shouldn't have to mess with the brakes after the initial set up, that's the beauty of sliders as opposed to track ends like I had on my previous bike and your Karate Monkey. I was told that a wavy rotor may work I don't know but it's a bit frustrating. If you look closely I've added some spacers maybe 1-2mm spacers between the post mounts and the brakes and even with these spacers it's impossible to remove the rear wheel without loosening up the brakes. I'm going to send them some of these pics and hopefully we can get this resolved. <a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/djembe975/IMG_1002_zpsa15694cc.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1002_zpsa15694cc.jpg"/></a>
    <a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/djembe975/IMG_1001_zpsec4fe3a5.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1001_zpsec4fe3a5.jpg"/></a>
    <a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/djembe975/IMG_1000_zps80e326e3.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_1000_zps80e326e3.jpg"/></a>
    <a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/djembe975/IMG_0999_zps9d49dbfc.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0999_zps9d49dbfc.jpg"/></a>
    <a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank"><img src="http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p209/djembe975/IMG_0997_zpsa5d148e4.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0997_zpsa5d148e4.jpg"/></a>

  2. #202
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DoubleHelix's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    97
    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    What's the fork? Chinese or name brand? I'd love a niner fork but $500 is a bit daunting. I lean towards it though because of the no weight limit claim.
    It's a whisky fork. I have a thread going on it in the 29er component sections:
    Whisky No. 9 15mm TA opinions

    Quote Originally Posted by djembe975 View Post
    I'm using a 10mm bolt on Woodman single speed hub but I've used them on frames with sliders before with no problems. I shouldn't have to mess with the brakes after the initial set up, that's the beauty of sliders as opposed to track ends like I had on my previous bike and your Karate Monkey. I was told that a wavy rotor may work I don't know but it's a bit frustrating. If you look closely I've added some spacers maybe 1-2mm spacers between the post mounts and the brakes and even with these spacers it's impossible to remove the rear wheel without loosening up the brakes. I'm going to send them some of these pics and hopefully we can get this resolved.
    The frame has some clearance issues with brakes that are mounted directly to the sliding frame mount.

    Most calipers that mount direct are for a 140mm rear. On a Hope brake the banjo is on the outside, which will hit the frame in going direct to the frame for a 140mm rotor:
    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-imag0155.jpg

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-imag0159.jpg

    This isnt an issue so much since most people dont use 140mm rotors.

    Hayes uses a 22mm direct mount caliper for 160mm which might be a problem, I might have some in a bin that I can test to see...

    djembe975, to fit a Shimano caliper to a 160mm rotor on the rear you should use the a front 180mm adapter.
    Shimano F180P/P or Shimano F180P/P2 (second one is lighter). With the brake adapter I assume you would have lots of clearance. Havent slept in a couple days so I think thats right...

    Side note, seeing your replacement bolts for the sliders is definitely something I'll have to do now.
    Last edited by DoubleHelix; 06-15-2013 at 09:33 PM.

  3. #203
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Jstews's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Posts
    118
    Looking forward to seeing more of these built up. That flat black is killer!

  4. #204
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    626
    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleHelix View Post
    It's a whisky fork. I have a thread going on it in the 29er component sections:
    Whisky No. 9 15mm TA opinions



    The frame has some clearance issues with brakes that are mounted directly to the sliding frame mount.

    Most calipers that mount direct are for a 140mm rear. On a Hope brake the banjo is on the outside, which will hit the frame in going direct to the frame for a 140mm rotor:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMAG0155.jpg 
Views:	352 
Size:	63.9 KB 
ID:	808495

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMAG0159.jpg 
Views:	301 
Size:	45.0 KB 
ID:	808496

    This isnt an issue so much since most people dont use 140mm rotors.

    Hayes uses a 22mm direct mount caliper for 160mm which might be a problem, I might have some in a bin that I can test to see...

    djembe975, to fit a Shimano caliper to a 160mm rotor on the rear you should use the a front 180mm adapter.
    Shimano F180P/P or Shimano F180P/P2 (second one is lighter). With the brake adapter I assume you would have lots of clearance. Havent slept in a couple days so I think thats right...

    Side note, seeing your replacement bolts for the sliders is definitely something I'll have to do now.
    I was told by my mechanic that shimano brakes don't need adapters when bolting to the post mount. Even with the small spacers I have installed it's still impossible to remove the rear wheel without loosening the calipers. I sent them the pics and hopefully they can offer some solutions. Oh, and in case anyone is wondering, those bolts are from a Kona frame and are used on the Unit and Honco, they are a bit more heavy duty then the stock ones, now I just have to change the tension screws for an allen head type at the local hardware store.

  5. #205
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DoubleHelix's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    97
    Crap I was thinking P/P front to IS/P rear...

    Yeah you shouldnt need an adapter for the shimano since P/P front is the same as P/P rear dimension.

  6. #206
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    626
    so what are my options as I'm already using some spacers and I still can't remove my wheel without loosening up my calipers?

  7. #207
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    737
    Can you add more washers? I had to add 5mm and 7mm of washers to the rear caliper of my TransAM frame. Longer bolts might be required but can be found at any bike shop if you don't have some spares laying around.

    The thing to keep an eye on is where to pads are contacting the rotor. Too few or too many washers could cause them not to align perfectly.

  8. #208
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DoubleHelix's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    97
    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    Can you add more washers? I had to add 5mm and 7mm of washers to the rear caliper of my TransAM frame. Longer bolts might be required but can be found at any bike shop if you don't have some spares laying around.

    The thing to keep an eye on is where to pads are contacting the rotor. Too few or too many washers could cause them not to align perfectly.
    I didnt have the washer stack that would make it work at the moment, pushed the caliper to far out so the pads didnt align well.

    What I did for a temp fix is install the 160 on the front and the 183 on the rear, not ideal but I have two functioning brakes at least. I might just get another 183 rotor and bracket and run it on both front and rear.

  9. #209
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Nubster's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    6,074
    Just wondering where you got the Whiskey #9? I can't find one in stock.

  10. #210
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DoubleHelix's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    97
    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    Just wondering where you got the Whiskey #9? I can't find one in stock.
    There was only about nine in stock when I ordered, currently they are out of stock. I ordered it though the bike shop I work at.

  11. #211
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Nubster's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    6,074
    They as in your shop or they as in Whiskey Parts Co.?

  12. #212
    squish, squish in da fish
    Reputation: fishwrinkle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,664
    oh yeah! what can brown do for me? drop off a shiny chrome xl n9. even looks more sic in person. crc where's my bits?!

  13. #213
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Nubster's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    6,074
    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    They as in your shop or they as in Whiskey Parts Co.?
    Nevermind...found one in stock!

  14. #214
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    123
    might go for a 650b build... its on a set of 26

  15. #215
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    737
    OMG the welds.

    Now if only my hand wasn't broken. Can't ride it but I'm seriously considering sleeping with it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_1188.jpg  

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_1205.jpg  

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_1215.jpg  

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_1183.jpg  

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_1184.jpg  


  16. #216
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    547
    I wouldn't want to take that chrome finish out of doors, surely it's not going to survive the first interface with a pebble?

  17. #217
    squish, squish in da fish
    Reputation: fishwrinkle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,664
    mine's getting some 3m clear bra, see how long that lasts. yes the welds are mostly nice. i couldnt imagine a broken hand right now, i'd be going nutso. maybe, you can order your GF around on how to assemble, lol

  18. #218
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    737
    I've got friend who rides a chromed out bike from the eighties. It seems to be holding up fine. Car bumpers were once all chrome as well and had to stand up to highway speed pebble strikes. It will get dinged up but still gleam nicely with pits not being noticeable except under close inspection. Or at least that's my justification for having paid extra for chrome.

  19. #219
    I'm just messing with you
    Reputation: wv_bob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,424
    Fun fact - chrome bumpers were shot with sand in the factory to strengthen the coating. They called it "pixie plating", as in pixie dust. There was a major bumper plant here back when chrome was king. I remember hearing stories about work there when I was a kid.

    That's not real chrome on the frame anyway, is it?
    Chasing bears through the woods drunk with a dull hatchet is strongly not advised

  20. #220
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    679

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    All my chrome BMX bikes in the 80's held up much better than the painted ones. Rust was more of an issue but easily avoided with minimal care.

    I hope my new N9 is real chrome as it will be nostalgically compared to my old BMX bikes...

  21. #221
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jkidd_39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    982

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    If anyone decides a chrome xl nimble 9 isn't for them let me know. I would love one but canfield is already out.

  22. #222
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rob1035's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    941
    the chrome and matte black are both sick looking! Can't wait to see a red built up (might powdercoat my Gen 1 red this fall)

  23. #223
    squish, squish in da fish
    Reputation: fishwrinkle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,664
    Looks plated to me. Def not paint so I don't know what other method there could be. At the weep holes it has a copper tinge. On another note, I was looking in the head tube to see the ED treatment and didn't see a difference from raw steel. I talked with Sean if I needed to treat the tubes and he said it wasn't needed. You'd think that if they were treated there would be some kind of color/texture difference.

  24. #224
    Kaishingo
    Reputation: wuzilla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    248
    fishy - Mine was matte black inside. Definitely ED treated. What color is yours?

  25. #225
    Kaishingo
    Reputation: wuzilla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    248
    Quickie lunchtime build (pluses of ss, and working from home!) Let's see if I can share images from FB:





    Parts transfer from my old bike, so nothing special. First impression on the driveway - this thing is going to land me on my back if I'm not careful! And never been able to make a U-Turn on a 29er in my driveway

  26. #226
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jkidd_39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    982

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Quote Originally Posted by wuzilla View Post
    Quickie lunchtime build (pluses of ss, and working from home!) Let's see if I can share images from FB:





    Parts transfer from my old bike, so nothing special. First impression on the driveway - this thing is going to land me on my back if I'm not careful! And never been able to make a U-Turn on a 29er in my driveway
    More info on the rubber ducky?? Looks great!!!

  27. #227
    Kaishingo
    Reputation: wuzilla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    248
    Quote Originally Posted by jkidd_39 View Post
    More info on the rubber ducky?? Looks great!!!
    Lol - I was building a bike for a friend. There was a rubber ducky in my tool box for some reason, so I zip-tied it to the handlebars as a joke. My wife saw it and asked for one on her bike. Before I knew it, I had ordered a bag of them from amazon.com and was sticking them on all the bikes I built :P

  28. #228
    squish, squish in da fish
    Reputation: fishwrinkle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,664
    Wuzilla my HT is raw metal inside along with BB. So I'm assuming all the other tubes are raw also. I'll have to talk with Sean I guess. Oh nice build by the way. Let us know how she handles

  29. #229
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    737
    Quote Originally Posted by wuzilla View Post
    Quickie lunchtime build (pluses of ss, and working from home!) Let's see if I can share images from FB:

    ...

    Parts transfer from my old bike, so nothing special. First impression on the driveway - this thing is going to land me on my back if I'm not careful! And never been able to make a U-Turn on a 29er in my driveway
    How did the length of the rear brake line routing compare to the old nimble? Being on the down tube and chain stay, it seems like the line would need to be longer than on the previous nimble. Hopefully not too much though or it'll require buying brake parts and then bleeding.

  30. #230
    Kaishingo
    Reputation: wuzilla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    248
    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    How did the length of the rear brake line routing compare to the old nimble? Being on the down tube and chain stay, it seems like the line would need to be longer than on the previous nimble. Hopefully not too much though or it'll require buying brake parts and then bleeding.
    I transferred from a Kona Unit - however, looking at the line, although it swapped right over, it is a little shorter then before. Not enough for me to replace, but might be something to expect with your build.

  31. #231
    beater
    Reputation: evasive's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    4,992
    I really like what the Bros have done with this frame. Keep the build shots coming!

  32. #232
    mtbr member
    Reputation: KillingtonVT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1,401

    Brake Rotor Clearance

    We have noticed a clearance issue when installing or removing the rear wheel on the New Nimble 9. Depending on the brake and rotor combination being used, the rotor may contact the caliper when installing or removing the rear wheel, preventing the wheel to move in and out of the dropout properly. With MOST brake/rotor combinations, the brake mounting hardware will need to be loosened for rear wheel installation and removal.

    As we completely understand this is not an ideal scenario, we are producing new dropouts for the Nimble 9 that will correct this issue. The new dropouts will mount the brake, via a post mount, above the seat stay for added clearance and will allow the use of a brakes and rotors 160mm and up. Production time is typically about a month, so we should have them in stock and shipping in about 5-6 weeks. In the meantime, please loosen your rear brake mounting hardware to install or remove
    your rear wheel.

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_2771.jpg

    I will keep you all in the loop as we have more information and updates. If you have any questions, feel free to contact either myself or Sean on this solution.

    Cheers,

    Vin

  33. #233
    squish, squish in da fish
    Reputation: fishwrinkle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,664
    Chrome frames are not ED treated the chrome will not stick to it. Guess I'm off to auto store to buy fogging oil.

  34. #234
    mtbr member
    Reputation: KillingtonVT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1,401
    Quote Originally Posted by fishwrinkle View Post
    Chrome frames are not ED treated the chrome will not stick to it. Guess I'm off to auto store to buy fogging oil.
    You are correct Sir! The PC'd frames are ED treated, and due to the plating process, we were not able to treat the Chromes the same way.
    Last edited by KillingtonVT; 06-19-2013 at 10:44 PM.

  35. #235
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    308
    Received my N9 yesterday and had it put together lastnight (along with a few other boxe's) and will be testing it out tonight. Need to make some adjustments but over all feels good so far but am curious how it rides compared to my Yelli. Thank's again to Canfield

    Look's like i have most of the trail's in SoCal covered
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_20130618_123600_025.jpg  


  36. #236
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    308
    Here is a few shot's on my N9 only and the only thing i need is a chainguide then i am done.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_20130618_120521_148.jpg  

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_20130618_120606_325.jpg  

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_20130618_120554_871.jpg  


  37. #237
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Nubster's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    6,074
    HOLY SHIT SHE’S A SEXY BEAST!!!

    (Even if it doesn't have a single speed dropout)




  38. #238
    squish, squish in da fish
    Reputation: fishwrinkle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,664
    yes she is. green was my second choice

  39. #239
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Nubster's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    6,074
    Yeah, doing green with red bits and pieces. I wasn't sure about the color until pictures got posted up. It's a super nice color for sure.

  40. #240
    squish, squish in da fish
    Reputation: fishwrinkle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,664
    Good deal. I'm doin' chrome n red. Unfortunately I gotta get a new hoop laced cuz mine is beyond repair. Might have to rock a Giant stock wheel til then. this thread is about to explode with sweet builds

  41. #241
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Nubster's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    6,074
    Quote Originally Posted by fishwrinkle View Post
    this thread is about to explode with sweet builds

    Yeah it is. Can't wait. I'll be tearing down my diSSent for most of the parts. Only thing new is the headset, fork, and seat post/clamp. I didn't need the fork but since this frame is a little pigish, I figured I'd save some weight getting a carbon rigid fork. I lock out my Manitou 99% of the time anyways.

    I'll rebuild the diSSent into an urban cruiser for around town fitness riding and the N9 will be my trail bike. Can't wait. I'll be ready to go as soon as the fork and headset arrive. Both have shipped so maybe by this weekend.

  42. #242
    mtbr member
    Reputation: KillingtonVT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    1,401
    [QUOTE=Nubster;10477563]HOLY SHIT SHE’S A SEXY BEAST!!!

    (Even if it doesn't have a single speed dropout)




    LOVE the green! It's a really unique color that hasn't been done very often. Reminds me of a 60's muscle car!

  43. #243
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Nubster's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    6,074
    Is there a color code for that green? I think it would be awesome to paint the fork to match. As it is, the fork will be matte black. If nothing else, I'd like to get a gloss on it. I think that would go better with the bike than matte. It was the only "color" in stock so I figured that was better than waiting weeks or more for the gloss version to get back in stock.

  44. #244
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jkidd_39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    982

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    Is there a color code for that green? I think it would be awesome to paint the fork to match. As it is, the fork will be matte black. If nothing else, I'd like to get a gloss on it. I think that would go better with the bike than matte. It was the only "color" in stock so I figured that was better than waiting weeks or more for the gloss version to get back in stock.
    Jaguar British racing green. Classic color.

  45. #245
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    981
    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    Good for you. I'll keep riding my diSSent until there's a SS dropout available, then I'll think about getting a new frame.
    oh how the mighty have fallen

  46. #246
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Nubster's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    6,074
    Quote Originally Posted by cpfitness View Post
    oh how the mighty have fallen

  47. #247
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    737
    The seat tube has a plastic insert. What's the deal with that?

    I would assume it should be removed but it is slit exactly like the frame and the seatpost still fits.

  48. #248
    Canfield Brothers
    Reputation: flymybike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,103
    It's an aluminum alloy shim. It's so you can have standard sized seat posts and clamps without having a crazy thick steel seat tube.
    http://www.canfieldbrothers.com/frames
    Building bikes that make you smile!
    www.mtbparks.com
    All Bike Park, All the time.

  49. #249
    mtbr member
    Reputation: savo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    780
    Super!

    Is it an XL size?

    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    HOLY SHIT SHE’S A SEXY BEAST!!!

  50. #250
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Nubster's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    6,074
    Yup. XL. I thought about going with the L but when comparing some of the specs with the specs on my XL diSSent, which is a little too big, I found that the XL N9 was slightly smaller so it seemed that it would be a great fit.

  51. #251
    hispanic mechanic
    Reputation: sslos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,491

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    Yup. XL. I thought about going with the L but when comparing some of the specs with the specs on my XL diSSent, which is a little too big, I found that the XL N9 was slightly smaller so it seemed that it would be a great fit.
    Glad you were able to set aside the issues you initially had with the frame. I think you're gonna really enjoy it.
    Congrats!

    Los
    Whiskey is my yoga.

    dongerparty.com

  52. #252
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Captain_America1976's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    2,160
    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    At lease he can admit when he is wrong

  53. #253
    squish, squish in da fish
    Reputation: fishwrinkle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,664
    ^^^lol'd

  54. #254
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Nubster's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    6,074
    I still think they should make a SS drop out...lol...especially since it seems like this is going to be a much more popular SS frame than they might have been expecting. The frame was just way too awesome looking and the geometry really has me excited to ride...I couldn't pass it up just because of some little stupid hangup I was having.

  55. #255
    hispanic mechanic
    Reputation: sslos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,491

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    I ..I couldn't pass it up just because of some little stupid hangup I was having.
    Hangup, or hanger?

    Los
    Whiskey is my yoga.

    dongerparty.com

  56. #256
    Feel Good About Hood
    Reputation: Pedal/Paddle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    217
    To add to the brake issues, apparently BB7s won't fit AT ALL. Both the cable retention bolt and the outboard pad adj knob hit the frame. Still need another inch of swing to get the lower CPS bolt in. Fairly frustrating. At least a solution is in the works. Also helps that this is the off season in Florida. Hot, humid, trails flooded, loaded with mosquitoes and getting overgrown. Jealous of those who get to ride theirs.


    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-p1010965-1024x683-.jpg

  57. #257
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    981

    Re: The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Quote Originally Posted by Pedal/Paddle View Post
    To add to the brake issues, apparently BB7s won't fit AT ALL. Both the cable retention bolt and the outboard pad adj knob hit the frame. Still need another inch of swing to get the lower CPS bolt in. Fairly frustrating. At least a solution is in the works. Also helps that this is the off season in Florida. Hot, humid, trails flooded, loaded with mosquitoes and getting overgrown. Jealous of those who get to ride theirs.


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P1010965 (1024x683).jpg 
Views:	342 
Size:	377.4 KB 
ID:	809625
    Why you putting kool-aid brakes on a champagne frame???

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

  58. #258
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Nubster's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    6,074
    Quote Originally Posted by Pedal/Paddle View Post
    To add to the brake issues, apparently BB7s won't fit AT ALL. Both the cable retention bolt and the outboard pad adj knob hit the frame. Still need another inch of swing to get the lower CPS bolt in. Fairly frustrating. At least a solution is in the works. Also helps that this is the off season in Florida. Hot, humid, trails flooded, loaded with mosquitoes and getting overgrown. Jealous of those who get to ride theirs.


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P1010965 (1024x683).jpg 
Views:	342 
Size:	377.4 KB 
ID:	809625
    Isn't that just f'ing fantastic.

  59. #259
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Nubster's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    6,074
    Quote Originally Posted by cpfitness View Post
    Why you putting kool-aid brakes on a champagne frame???

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
    First of all, not a damn thing wrong with BB7's. Second, maybe that's what some of have on hand or all we can afford at the moment after dropping a wad of cash on a new frame. Then there's the idea that some people like to keep their bikes simple. Kinda goes along the ideas of single speeding it for a lot of folks.

    Anyways, looks like a rear brake upgrade or no riding for 4-5weeks >

  60. #260
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Nubster's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    6,074
    Quote Originally Posted by sslos View Post
    Hangup, or hanger?

    Los
    Nice one!!! haha

  61. #261
    AOK
    AOK is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: AOK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,900

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    I really don't get the move to put brake mounts inside the rear triangle (chain stay mount) vs. the traditional seat stay mounts. Seems like it just causes fit / clearance issues. And I am not just piling on.... I made similar comments when Niner moved their brake mounts on the SIR9.

    Is there some advantage to chain stay mounts? I might guess it allows for thinner/lighter seat stays, but that should make no difference on a frame like the N9 where the mount is on the dropout.

  62. #262
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Nubster's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    6,074
    I think it looks better with the brake tucked inside the stays and I guess one could argue it offers a little protection as well, though I don't really read or hear about caliber damage being a problem from crashes or sticks/rocks on the trail. As far as performance advantage, no idea.

  63. #263
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    547
    I've read that having the calliper forward of the axle forces the wheel into the floor under braking, rather than it lifting.

    No idea if that holds water scientifically.

    Does an XT calliper fit (with 160mm rotor)? Or a Hope X2?

    Very pretty that green, Nubster.
    Last edited by ghetto; 06-21-2013 at 02:00 AM. Reason: spelling

  64. #264
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Nubster's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    6,074
    Quote Originally Posted by ghetto View Post
    Does an XT calliper fit (with 160mm rotor)? Or a Hope X2?

    Ver pretty that green Nubster.
    It appears both do fit but at least the XT has the issue of not being able to remove the rear wheel without loosening the caliber. But at least they fit.

    And yeah, I'm really diggin' the green. It was a tough choice between colors.

  65. #265
    Feel Good About Hood
    Reputation: Pedal/Paddle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by cpfitness View Post
    Why you putting kool-aid brakes on a champagne frame???
    Just to annoy people.


    Or, ya know, maybe because I like them?


    Quote Originally Posted by Nubster View Post
    Anyways, looks like a rear brake upgrade or no riding for 4-5weeks >
    No riding this bike anyway. Already over budget (no surprise there).


    Quote Originally Posted by AOK View Post
    I really don't get the move to put brake mounts inside the rear triangle .....
    I like the way it looks, no idea if there is any performance advantage.

  66. #266
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Nubster's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    6,074
    Quote Originally Posted by Pedal/Paddle View Post
    No riding this bike anyway. Already over budget (no surprise there).
    Well, I wasn't, until now...lol

  67. #267
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Calhoun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    2,045
    Quote Originally Posted by atamayo View Post
    might go for a 650b build... its on a set of 26
    would be interested to hear the pros/cons of this approach.
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

    -cabra cadabra

  68. #268
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    986
    Does this frame fit a 180mm crankset?

  69. #269
    mtbr member
    Reputation: OldHouseMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    3,687
    Quote Originally Posted by Pedal/Paddle View Post
    To add to the brake issues, apparently BB7s won't fit AT ALL. Both the cable retention bolt and the outboard pad adj knob hit the frame. Still need another inch of swing to get the lower CPS bolt in. Fairly frustrating. At least a solution is in the works. Also helps that this is the off season in Florida. Hot, humid, trails flooded, loaded with mosquitoes and getting overgrown. Jealous of those who get to ride theirs.


    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	P1010965 (1024x683).jpg 
Views:	342 
Size:	377.4 KB 
ID:	809625
    Would it be possible to use a larger rotor with an adapter to push the caliper out a little farther? This is assuming you're using a 160 rotor.
    I only ride bikes to fill the time when I'm not skiing.

  70. #270
    squish, squish in da fish
    Reputation: fishwrinkle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,664
    Quote Originally Posted by GTR-33 View Post
    Does this frame fit a 180mm crankset?
    I've a set of 175's and it looks like they should.

  71. #271
    squish, squish in da fish
    Reputation: fishwrinkle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,664
    Oldhouseman that's some good thinking

  72. #272
    squish, squish in da fish
    Reputation: fishwrinkle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,664
    took 'er out for a 3 mi jaunt and it lives up to its name. 1st thing i did was mash it outta the driveway and she stood right up, love it. wasn't running a guide or tensioner and dropped chain once while using a zee rd, weird. now the hope guide is on and i will hit some intermediate trails first thing in the am. i'll post pics once my finishing parts are here, not ashamed of her but not as blingy as it needs to be. took my rear wheel in to get trued but it was blown out so i took em a new hoop. i got a call thinking it was ready, but nope, i took them a 36h hoop. receipt from online store says 32, but not so much. minor complications, but something a scotch ale wont fix

  73. #273
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    546
    Quote Originally Posted by OldHouseMan View Post
    Would it be possible to use a larger rotor with an adapter to push the caliper out a little farther? This is assuming you're using a 160 rotor.
    Or "preload" it. Same issue with the On-one Inbred frames with BB7s. Owners have resorted to either one, or just switching to hydros.

  74. #274
    Feel Good About Hood
    Reputation: Pedal/Paddle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by OldHouseMan View Post
    Would it be possible to use a larger rotor with an adapter to push the caliper out a little farther? This is assuming you're using a 160 rotor.
    Yes, it's a 160. I guess that is possible. I won't have time to play with again until Sunday. May try mocking up a 180 rotor from cardboard or something and see how it lands. Thanks for the idea.

  75. #275
    Feel Good About Hood
    Reputation: Pedal/Paddle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by goldenaustin View Post
    Or "preload" it.
    Care to elaborate or point me to a thread on this?

    Quote Originally Posted by goldenaustin View Post
    .... or just switching to hydros.
    Not anytime soon, maybe someday.

  76. #276
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    546
    Quote Originally Posted by Pedal/Paddle View Post
    Care to elaborate or point me to a thread on this?
    Actually, just re-read your post, and I missed the part about the red knob for the outboard pad not clearing. The Inbred issue was just the actuator arm not clearing the seatstay, and owners were tightening up the cable to move the arm out of the way, like in the following pic:

    http://www.socaltrailriders.org/foru...1&d=1236558660

    As mentioned, maybe the larger rotor might be the only option.

  77. #277
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    737
    X-Fusion Trace lowered to 120mm. The 34mm stanchions and tapered steerer were some of the main reasons for replacing my old nimble. The front end is waaay beefier with this than a fox 32mm stanchion float on a 1-1/8 steerer.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_1426.jpg  

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_1411.jpg  


  78. #278
    Singlespeed Enduro Poser
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    1,139
    I've had the frame for 2 weeks now and i am not having any luck WHATSOEVER with the rear brake. My Hope M4's didn't work and the Avid CR's would not work either. It's really frustrating ....

    Can someone please tell me how soon i can get a replacement drop out for my N9??????

  79. #279
    DBY
    DBY is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    281
    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    X-Fusion Trace lowered to 120mm. The 34mm stanchions and tapered steerer were some of the main reasons for replacing my old nimble. The front end is waaay beefier with this than a fox 32mm stanchion float on a 1-1/8 steerer.
    That definitely looks stout! I like it.

  80. #280
    Kaishingo
    Reputation: wuzilla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    248
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott forty G. View Post
    I've had the frame for 2 weeks now and i am not having any luck WHATSOEVER with the rear brake. My Hope M4's didn't work and the Avid CR's would not work either. It's really frustrating ....

    Can someone please tell me how soon i can get a replacement drop out for my N9??????
    Is the body of the CRs physically not fitting on the frame? I have no problems with my Elixir R's - although the CR's have a different body, isn't the hose routing still on the inside (towards the wheel) of the caliper?

  81. #281
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    358
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott forty G. View Post
    I've had the frame for 2 weeks now and i am not having any luck WHATSOEVER with the rear brake. My Hope M4's didn't work and the Avid CR's would not work either. It's really frustrating ....

    Can someone please tell me how soon i can get a replacement drop out for my N9??????


    Hi Barsolino!

    Can you send some pics of the issues you are having with the CR's? This is a well used brake on this bike. We'll help dial it in!

  82. #282
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dave862's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    23
    I see builds using CK Headsets any problems installing them? I'm running the 44mm
    internal Inset 1 for a straight steerer fork. The shop had a hard time pressing in the top race and the bearing would not turn. Anyone here reamed and faced the headtube before install?




    This post is amended to "CK" headsets. i.e Chris King Inset1 internal 44mm .
    I realize now that "CC" can mean "Cane Creek".
    Last edited by Dave862; 06-26-2013 at 07:19 PM.

  83. #283
    Steel is Real
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    93

    Yep

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave862 View Post
    I see builds using CC Headsets any problems installing them? I'm running the 44mm
    internal Inset 1 for a straight steerer fork. The shop had a hard time pressing in the top race and the bearing would not turn. Anyone here reamed and faced the headtube before install?
    I'm also using a CC 40 series (44ZS) for a straight steerer and the shop that pressed the cups in had a hard time with the top cup and completely boogered one of my bearings in the process. Luckily I had a spare bearing from another CC headset with me and although he got that one 98% of the way in, it wasn't perfect and I had to finish the job when I got it home. Seems that the HT is a little tight.
    "America is all about speed... Hot, nasty, badass speed!!!"
    -Eleanor Roosevelt, 1936

  84. #284
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Nubster's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    6,074
    This keeps getting worse and worse. First I have to buy new brakes, now there's a chance my CC headset isn't going to work?

    *** Thankfully my headset went in today (6/30/13) with no problems. Just waiting on brakes to arrive and hoping they fit and I should have the bike built by this weekend ***
    Last edited by Nubster; 06-30-2013 at 06:57 PM.

  85. #285
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    737
    CC 110 worked perfectly for me. No facing or reaming required.

  86. #286
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dave862's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    23
    I have an email out to the Brothers Canfield concerning my observations.

    By my measurement the headtube is in need of facing and reaming.
    Chris King is holding firm to their headtube ID requirements. If it needs it, I don't have
    a problem with reaming and facing. I do have a problem with finding a qualified shop in my area that has the correct tools to do the job.

  87. #287
    Feel Good About Hood
    Reputation: Pedal/Paddle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    217
    Quote Originally Posted by goldenaustin View Post
    Actually, just re-read your post, and I missed the part about the red knob for the outboard pad not clearing. The Inbred issue was just the actuator arm not clearing the seatstay, and owners were tightening up the cable to move the arm out of the way, like in the following pic:

    http://www.socaltrailriders.org/foru...1&d=1236558660

    As mentioned, maybe the larger rotor might be the only option.
    I figured that is what you meant, I thought of that when I was mounting it but didn't try it. Should have some time tomorrow to play with it again.


    RE: Headsets - Cane Creek 40 series with external bottom cup for tapered steerer pressed in fine on mine with no facing or reaming.

  88. #288
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    737
    Quote Originally Posted by Notch Johnson View Post
    I'm also using a CC 40 series (44ZS) for a straight steerer and the shop that pressed the cups in had a hard time with the top cup and completely boogered one of my bearings in the process. Luckily I had a spare bearing from another CC headset with me and although he got that one 98% of the way in, it wasn't perfect and I had to finish the job when I got it home. Seems that the HT is a little tight.
    Not trying to be combative but what does it mean that the shop had a hard time pressing it in? And what exactly is the inside diameter that was measured on the frame? A shop should have calipers for measuring that and a headset reaming and facing tool for fixing it.

    After being faced and reamed and then pressed with a park tool headset press, it should press in regardless. Those thing are stout, weighing more than the entire nimble 9 frame. With a proper headset press adapter, it shouldn't be possible to mess up a bearing from pressing in the headset cup.

    Could it be that the shop mechanic was inexperienced, screwed up and then tried to justify it by saying it was hard to press? I've seen that happen when not pressed in straight. Since then, I bought a press and done it myself ever since.

    Again, not trying to be a jerk about it, but a competent shop would have been able to put the headset in. They deal with slight tolerance variances on a regular basis. That is exactly what a park headset facing and reaming tool is for and the shop should have one.

    Here is what that tool looks like:
    Park Tool Co. » HTR-1B : Head Tube Reaming and Facing Set : Frame & Fork Tools

    (Edit: removed one paragraph to leave just the main point of the reply)

  89. #289
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    737
    Here is a link to a park tool article on a facing and reaming. After reading that, I am convinced that the shop screwed up. In my opinion, every shop should have calipers, reaming and facing tools, and a headset press with multiple adapters. When properly equipped, tolerance variances are not an issue. That's exactly what the shop is being paid to address.

    Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Headtube Reaming and Facing

    If the shop destroyed a bearing when putting in a headset, they should replace it free of charge.

  90. #290
    Kaishingo
    Reputation: wuzilla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    248
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave862 View Post
    I have an email out to the Brothers Canfield concerning my observations.

    By my measurement the headtube is in need of facing and reaming.
    Chris King is holding firm to their headtube ID requirements. If it needs it, I don't have
    a problem with reaming and facing. I do have a problem with finding a qualified shop in my area that has the correct tools to do the job.
    Any new frame should have the headtube and BB shell faced and chased. Frankly, this isn't a $2k custom steal frame, and I didn't go into this deal thinking as such. If nothing else, you're double checking the frame tolerances to make sure there weren't any variances that may have occurred during finishing the frame - too much paint, etc. I've never pulled a sub $1k frame out of a box that didn't need a little post-paint cleaning - I've even taken apart nice mainstream frames (kona, etc.) that needed help. If they all came perfect, bike shops wouldn't need to have $500 tools lying around!

    That said, I didn't do anything to this bike before building. What can I say - I was impatient! Out of the box, I could see that some facing needed to be done on both the BB shell and the headtube. I didn't do it - again, no time. I then installed a brand new Chris King Inset 7. With ghetto tools (I couldn't find my press). The top cup was a little tough to get in - but after some patience, it worked and now spins smoothly.

    There comes a point when installing a headset cup when you know it's not going in right. When that time comes, you stop, and start all over. Any mech who went past that point and ended up destroying bearings...well, I would question how much time and attention to detail they put into any of their work. There are a lot of folks out there who think they can work on bikes - some of them are even paid to do so.

  91. #291
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    986
    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    After being faced and reamed and then pressed with a park tool headset press, it should press in regardless.
    This sounds like what has happened to the guys who had problems. There are tools that exist to overcome manufacturing flaws and things being out of spec.

    The thing is that in my experience, most bike shops don't have these tools and/or someone that knows how to use them. I know of one shop in my area that has all of the tools to install a King headset in a new frame with a 44mm/tapered headset. That's a headset press with the proper King bearing adaptors and a facing/reaming tool with all the proper sizes. Who has bottom bracket facing and chasing tools? Same shop is the only one I know that has those too.

  92. #292
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dave862's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by GTR-33 View Post
    This sounds like what has happened to the guys who had problems. There are tools that exist to overcome manufacturing flaws and things being out of spec.

    The thing is that in my experience, most bike shops don't have these tools and/or someone that knows how to use them. I know of one shop in my area that has all of the tools to install a King headset in a new frame with a 44mm/tapered headset. .

    One is better than none. That is my predicament. No local shops with the correct fitment to do a 44mm headtube.

  93. #293
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    737
    That truly does suck. Hopefully the shop was up front about not having the tools to do the job. They should be telling customers before doing the work, that they don't have the tools to install headsets into 44mm headtubes. Even better would be if they checked the diameters and also let the customer know if the fit would be too tight without reaming.

    Ultimately, the shop should just buy the reamer head for 44mm headtubes. That's a $150 dollar head for the tool that they probably already have.


    Hopefully it is clear for people reading this, that the nimble 9 frame was fine. It simply needs the headset installed with the proper tools, as should be done with any frame.

  94. #294
    AOK
    AOK is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: AOK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,900

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    A shop should have calipers for measuring that and a headset reaming and facing tool for fixing
    Where I live, shops just take the partially assembled Trek / Specialized bikes out of boxes and put them together. They don't own things like reaming and facing tools. I asked about it one time and was looked at like I was from Mars. Sort of the same look I get when I ask about "crazy exotic" parts like a King headset.

    Don't have a dog in the N9 fight, just making the observation that those who have knowledgeable full service shops nearby are lucky.

  95. #295
    AOK
    AOK is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: AOK's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,900

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Quote Originally Posted by wuzilla View Post
    I've even taken apart nice mainstream frames (kona, etc.) that needed help. If they all came perfect, bike shops wouldn't need to have $500 tools lying around!
    The shop that I asked about reaming / facing a while back (see my earlier post) told me that if they got a frame that needed facing, etc that they just sent it back to Trek as defective. Lol!

  96. #296
    Feel Good About Hood
    Reputation: Pedal/Paddle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    217
    So I made some 20mm spacers to set the caliper to the position for 180mm rotor and it still won't fit. Not even with the actuator arm pulled in some. Not even close. The angle of the seat stay is just too shallow. While I'm disappointed in the delay, the frame is so gorgeous. Still happy with my decision.


    Here are some quick, low quality pics of what I have so far

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-p1010975-1280x836-.jpg

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-p1010980-853x1280-.jpg
    Last edited by Pedal/Paddle; 06-27-2013 at 04:35 PM. Reason: spelling

  97. #297
    Steel is Real
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    93
    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    Not trying to be combative but what does it mean that the shop had a hard time pressing it in? And what exactly is the inside diameter that was measured on the frame? A shop should have calipers for measuring that and a headset reaming and facing tool for fixing it.

    After being faced and reamed and then pressed with a park tool headset press, it should press in regardless. Those thing are stout, weighing more than the entire nimble 9 frame. With a proper headset press adapter, it shouldn't be possible to mess up a bearing from pressing in the headset cup.

    Could it be that the shop mechanic was inexperienced, screwed up and then tried to justify it by saying it was hard to press? I've seen that happen when not pressed in straight. Since then, I bought a press and done it myself ever since.

    Again, not trying to be a jerk about it, but a competent shop would have been able to put the headset in. They deal with slight tolerance variances on a regular basis. That is exactly what a park headset facing and reaming tool is for and the shop should have one.

    Here is what that tool looks like:
    Park Tool Co. » HTR-1B : Head Tube Reaming and Facing Set : Frame & Fork Tools

    (Edit: removed one paragraph to leave just the main point of the reply)
    What I mean by the shop had a hard time pressing the cups in is just that... the mech worked on it for quite a while... the bottom cup went in no prob, but the top cup seemed to be a quite struggle and he was cranking on the press harder than I cared to witness. I spoke up to see if there was something wrong. He mumbled that the HT was tight, then proceeded to start over on the top cup, eventually enlisting the help of another mech to hold the frame steady in the rack while he cranked away on the press. After pressing in the cups, he had to press in the bearings, which I believe should have gone in fairly easily judging by my past experience with CC 40 series headsets. Shortly thereafter he brought the bearing over asking if the headset had been used before and showed me the damage and that it wouldn't even rotate, at all.

    I was really not happy seeing this and I completely agree that the HT should have been measured, faced if neccessary, etc. I don't know what the ID of the tube was. I'm a bike rider, not a bike mechanic, therefore I trusted, and payed, to have the work done by a professional. In the end it worked out and I am happily riding my bike now, so it's really a moot point, but just something I wanted to point out so that others don't run into the same situation when building their bikes.

    For a guy like me who only builds up a new bike every 2-3 years or so, it didn't make a lot of financial sense to buy a quality press and reamer when I could just take the thing down to the LBS and have them do it for a modest amount and support their business all the while. However, it's looking more appealing now. Like someone else had mentioned, whenever I've taken new frames to the shops in my area, I usually get the "are you an alien?" look whenever I've inquired about facing/chasing.
    "America is all about speed... Hot, nasty, badass speed!!!"
    -Eleanor Roosevelt, 1936

  98. #298
    squish, squish in da fish
    Reputation: fishwrinkle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,664
    i too have a prob with the top cup of a CC zs44 headset. i have a press and couldnt get the damn top cup in so i took it to the shop. i forgot my wallet so when i returned they had it in. i ripped it around the block upon returning home and the thing creeks like no other. i had extra bearings from a s-8 so i threw those in, but not without the use of a mallet, this isn't right. long story short i inquired about reaming n facing with an upper at canfield and i was reassured that that they were good to go outta the box. yeah not so much. looks like i need a new HS and a reaming, lol ;/

  99. #299
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Dave862's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by Notch Johnson View Post
    What I mean by the shop had a hard time pressing the cups in is just that... the mech worked on it for quite a while... the bottom cup went in no prob, but the top cup seemed to be a quite struggle and he was cranking on the press harder than I cared to witness. I spoke up to see if there was something wrong. He mumbled that the HT was tight, then proceeded to start over on the top cup, eventually enlisting the help of another mech to hold the frame steady in the rack while he cranked away on the press. I was really not happy seeing this and I completely agree that the HT should have been measured, faced if neccessary, etc. I don't know what the ID of the tube was. I'm a bike rider, not a bike mechanic, therefore I trusted, and payed, to have the work done by a professional. In the end it worked out and I am happily riding my bike now, so it's really a moot point, but just something I wanted to point out so that others don't run into the same situation when building their bikes.

    Like someone else had mentioned, whenever I've taken new frames to the shops in my area, I usually get the "are you an alien?" look whenever I've inquired about facing/chasing.
    your experience was parallel to mine. the mechanic acted in a similar fashion.


    The Headtube measured to 43.56 to 43.63 from memory. That is tight. too tight in my opinion. From the link above from Park Tools the reamer will cut to ID of 43.95mm so cups of 44 to 44.1 will fit without binding.

    I asked many shop owners and shop mechanics some who are personal friends and
    the response was that a shop quality ream and face kit can cost upwards of $750.
    A few had the fittings for 1.125 headtubes but no one had the fittings for 44mm.
    It's just not a service that has a lot of frequency.
    In my case a Chris King internal headset (zero stack) to run a 1.125 straight steerer fork is a complete Fail. The cups collapse when fully pressed and the bearings are frozen.
    A steel head tube will stretch when pressing in the cups and may give enough to accept the cup and race and have no issues, so this problem with bearing binding is dependent on the tolerance of the frame and the headset used.

    I don't realistically see reaming and facing as a solution to my instance, unless I want to drop some big bucks on a tool I'll use once. So it looks like a different head set, but others here are reporting concerns with different makes also.

    If there is anyone reading this who knows of or has access to the proper tools send me a PM, Please. I'm wiling to ship to a shop to have this done.

    I am starting a new build of another frame and going to shelf this until a time when I can dedicate more to the issue

  100. #300
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    737
    The $750 cost he quoted is for an entire facing and reaming set. To buy the 44mm reaming head for their existing tool is around $150 (or less if they shop around). It would be worthwhile for the shop to buy the proper equipment. 44mm headtubes aren't that rare and they've already ruined at least one bearing by attempting to do it without proper tools. Hopefully they didn't ovalize the headtube as well. That would truly suck!

    Shops really should be using the right tools instead of just jamming headsets in with brute force. For people working on their own bike at home, it doesn't make sense to buy expensive tools. But it only takes one screw up for a shop to justify the purchase. Sooner or later, they'll ruin a frame. They probably already have and bike owners didn't realize that the reason their headtube creaks or cracks was because of sloppy work at their local bike shop.

    Sorry, I know that doesn't help you and you certainly haven't done anything wrong. I hope you find a solution soon!

Page 3 of 7 FirstFirst 1234567 LastLast

Members who have read this thread: 135

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •