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  1. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedal/Paddle View Post
    Care to elaborate or point me to a thread on this?
    Actually, just re-read your post, and I missed the part about the red knob for the outboard pad not clearing. The Inbred issue was just the actuator arm not clearing the seatstay, and owners were tightening up the cable to move the arm out of the way, like in the following pic:

    http://www.socaltrailriders.org/foru...1&d=1236558660

    As mentioned, maybe the larger rotor might be the only option.

  2. #277
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    X-Fusion Trace lowered to 120mm. The 34mm stanchions and tapered steerer were some of the main reasons for replacing my old nimble. The front end is waaay beefier with this than a fox 32mm stanchion float on a 1-1/8 steerer.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_1426.jpg  

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_1411.jpg  


  3. #278
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    I've had the frame for 2 weeks now and i am not having any luck WHATSOEVER with the rear brake. My Hope M4's didn't work and the Avid CR's would not work either. It's really frustrating ....

    Can someone please tell me how soon i can get a replacement drop out for my N9??????

  4. #279
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    X-Fusion Trace lowered to 120mm. The 34mm stanchions and tapered steerer were some of the main reasons for replacing my old nimble. The front end is waaay beefier with this than a fox 32mm stanchion float on a 1-1/8 steerer.
    That definitely looks stout! I like it.

  5. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott forty G. View Post
    I've had the frame for 2 weeks now and i am not having any luck WHATSOEVER with the rear brake. My Hope M4's didn't work and the Avid CR's would not work either. It's really frustrating ....

    Can someone please tell me how soon i can get a replacement drop out for my N9??????
    Is the body of the CRs physically not fitting on the frame? I have no problems with my Elixir R's - although the CR's have a different body, isn't the hose routing still on the inside (towards the wheel) of the caliper?
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  6. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott forty G. View Post
    I've had the frame for 2 weeks now and i am not having any luck WHATSOEVER with the rear brake. My Hope M4's didn't work and the Avid CR's would not work either. It's really frustrating ....

    Can someone please tell me how soon i can get a replacement drop out for my N9??????


    Hi Barsolino!

    Can you send some pics of the issues you are having with the CR's? This is a well used brake on this bike. We'll help dial it in!

  7. #282
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    I see builds using CK Headsets any problems installing them? I'm running the 44mm
    internal Inset 1 for a straight steerer fork. The shop had a hard time pressing in the top race and the bearing would not turn. Anyone here reamed and faced the headtube before install?




    This post is amended to "CK" headsets. i.e Chris King Inset1 internal 44mm .
    I realize now that "CC" can mean "Cane Creek".
    Last edited by Dave862; 06-26-2013 at 08:19 PM.

  8. #283
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    Yep

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave862 View Post
    I see builds using CC Headsets any problems installing them? I'm running the 44mm
    internal Inset 1 for a straight steerer fork. The shop had a hard time pressing in the top race and the bearing would not turn. Anyone here reamed and faced the headtube before install?
    I'm also using a CC 40 series (44ZS) for a straight steerer and the shop that pressed the cups in had a hard time with the top cup and completely boogered one of my bearings in the process. Luckily I had a spare bearing from another CC headset with me and although he got that one 98% of the way in, it wasn't perfect and I had to finish the job when I got it home. Seems that the HT is a little tight.
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  9. #284
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    This keeps getting worse and worse. First I have to buy new brakes, now there's a chance my CC headset isn't going to work?

    *** Thankfully my headset went in today (6/30/13) with no problems. Just waiting on brakes to arrive and hoping they fit and I should have the bike built by this weekend ***
    Last edited by Nubster; 06-30-2013 at 07:57 PM.

  10. #285
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    CC 110 worked perfectly for me. No facing or reaming required.

  11. #286
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    I have an email out to the Brothers Canfield concerning my observations.

    By my measurement the headtube is in need of facing and reaming.
    Chris King is holding firm to their headtube ID requirements. If it needs it, I don't have
    a problem with reaming and facing. I do have a problem with finding a qualified shop in my area that has the correct tools to do the job.

  12. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by goldenaustin View Post
    Actually, just re-read your post, and I missed the part about the red knob for the outboard pad not clearing. The Inbred issue was just the actuator arm not clearing the seatstay, and owners were tightening up the cable to move the arm out of the way, like in the following pic:

    http://www.socaltrailriders.org/foru...1&d=1236558660

    As mentioned, maybe the larger rotor might be the only option.
    I figured that is what you meant, I thought of that when I was mounting it but didn't try it. Should have some time tomorrow to play with it again.


    RE: Headsets - Cane Creek 40 series with external bottom cup for tapered steerer pressed in fine on mine with no facing or reaming.

  13. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notch Johnson View Post
    I'm also using a CC 40 series (44ZS) for a straight steerer and the shop that pressed the cups in had a hard time with the top cup and completely boogered one of my bearings in the process. Luckily I had a spare bearing from another CC headset with me and although he got that one 98% of the way in, it wasn't perfect and I had to finish the job when I got it home. Seems that the HT is a little tight.
    Not trying to be combative but what does it mean that the shop had a hard time pressing it in? And what exactly is the inside diameter that was measured on the frame? A shop should have calipers for measuring that and a headset reaming and facing tool for fixing it.

    After being faced and reamed and then pressed with a park tool headset press, it should press in regardless. Those thing are stout, weighing more than the entire nimble 9 frame. With a proper headset press adapter, it shouldn't be possible to mess up a bearing from pressing in the headset cup.

    Could it be that the shop mechanic was inexperienced, screwed up and then tried to justify it by saying it was hard to press? I've seen that happen when not pressed in straight. Since then, I bought a press and done it myself ever since.

    Again, not trying to be a jerk about it, but a competent shop would have been able to put the headset in. They deal with slight tolerance variances on a regular basis. That is exactly what a park headset facing and reaming tool is for and the shop should have one.

    Here is what that tool looks like:
    Park Tool Co. » HTR-1B : Head Tube Reaming and Facing Set : Frame & Fork Tools

    (Edit: removed one paragraph to leave just the main point of the reply)

  14. #289
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    Here is a link to a park tool article on a facing and reaming. After reading that, I am convinced that the shop screwed up. In my opinion, every shop should have calipers, reaming and facing tools, and a headset press with multiple adapters. When properly equipped, tolerance variances are not an issue. That's exactly what the shop is being paid to address.

    Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Headtube Reaming and Facing

    If the shop destroyed a bearing when putting in a headset, they should replace it free of charge.

  15. #290
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave862 View Post
    I have an email out to the Brothers Canfield concerning my observations.

    By my measurement the headtube is in need of facing and reaming.
    Chris King is holding firm to their headtube ID requirements. If it needs it, I don't have
    a problem with reaming and facing. I do have a problem with finding a qualified shop in my area that has the correct tools to do the job.
    Any new frame should have the headtube and BB shell faced and chased. Frankly, this isn't a $2k custom steal frame, and I didn't go into this deal thinking as such. If nothing else, you're double checking the frame tolerances to make sure there weren't any variances that may have occurred during finishing the frame - too much paint, etc. I've never pulled a sub $1k frame out of a box that didn't need a little post-paint cleaning - I've even taken apart nice mainstream frames (kona, etc.) that needed help. If they all came perfect, bike shops wouldn't need to have $500 tools lying around!

    That said, I didn't do anything to this bike before building. What can I say - I was impatient! Out of the box, I could see that some facing needed to be done on both the BB shell and the headtube. I didn't do it - again, no time. I then installed a brand new Chris King Inset 7. With ghetto tools (I couldn't find my press). The top cup was a little tough to get in - but after some patience, it worked and now spins smoothly.

    There comes a point when installing a headset cup when you know it's not going in right. When that time comes, you stop, and start all over. Any mech who went past that point and ended up destroying bearings...well, I would question how much time and attention to detail they put into any of their work. There are a lot of folks out there who think they can work on bikes - some of them are even paid to do so.
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  16. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    After being faced and reamed and then pressed with a park tool headset press, it should press in regardless.
    This sounds like what has happened to the guys who had problems. There are tools that exist to overcome manufacturing flaws and things being out of spec.

    The thing is that in my experience, most bike shops don't have these tools and/or someone that knows how to use them. I know of one shop in my area that has all of the tools to install a King headset in a new frame with a 44mm/tapered headset. That's a headset press with the proper King bearing adaptors and a facing/reaming tool with all the proper sizes. Who has bottom bracket facing and chasing tools? Same shop is the only one I know that has those too.

  17. #292
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTR-33 View Post
    This sounds like what has happened to the guys who had problems. There are tools that exist to overcome manufacturing flaws and things being out of spec.

    The thing is that in my experience, most bike shops don't have these tools and/or someone that knows how to use them. I know of one shop in my area that has all of the tools to install a King headset in a new frame with a 44mm/tapered headset. .

    One is better than none. That is my predicament. No local shops with the correct fitment to do a 44mm headtube.

  18. #293
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    That truly does suck. Hopefully the shop was up front about not having the tools to do the job. They should be telling customers before doing the work, that they don't have the tools to install headsets into 44mm headtubes. Even better would be if they checked the diameters and also let the customer know if the fit would be too tight without reaming.

    Ultimately, the shop should just buy the reamer head for 44mm headtubes. That's a $150 dollar head for the tool that they probably already have.


    Hopefully it is clear for people reading this, that the nimble 9 frame was fine. It simply needs the headset installed with the proper tools, as should be done with any frame.

  19. #294
    AOK
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    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    A shop should have calipers for measuring that and a headset reaming and facing tool for fixing
    Where I live, shops just take the partially assembled Trek / Specialized bikes out of boxes and put them together. They don't own things like reaming and facing tools. I asked about it one time and was looked at like I was from Mars. Sort of the same look I get when I ask about "crazy exotic" parts like a King headset.

    Don't have a dog in the N9 fight, just making the observation that those who have knowledgeable full service shops nearby are lucky.

  20. #295
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    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Quote Originally Posted by wuzilla View Post
    I've even taken apart nice mainstream frames (kona, etc.) that needed help. If they all came perfect, bike shops wouldn't need to have $500 tools lying around!
    The shop that I asked about reaming / facing a while back (see my earlier post) told me that if they got a frame that needed facing, etc that they just sent it back to Trek as defective. Lol!

  21. #296
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    So I made some 20mm spacers to set the caliper to the position for 180mm rotor and it still won't fit. Not even with the actuator arm pulled in some. Not even close. The angle of the seat stay is just too shallow. While I'm disappointed in the delay, the frame is so gorgeous. Still happy with my decision.


    Here are some quick, low quality pics of what I have so far

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-p1010975-1280x836-.jpg

    The NEW Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-p1010980-853x1280-.jpg
    Last edited by Pedal/Paddle; 06-27-2013 at 05:35 PM. Reason: spelling

  22. #297
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfiler View Post
    Not trying to be combative but what does it mean that the shop had a hard time pressing it in? And what exactly is the inside diameter that was measured on the frame? A shop should have calipers for measuring that and a headset reaming and facing tool for fixing it.

    After being faced and reamed and then pressed with a park tool headset press, it should press in regardless. Those thing are stout, weighing more than the entire nimble 9 frame. With a proper headset press adapter, it shouldn't be possible to mess up a bearing from pressing in the headset cup.

    Could it be that the shop mechanic was inexperienced, screwed up and then tried to justify it by saying it was hard to press? I've seen that happen when not pressed in straight. Since then, I bought a press and done it myself ever since.

    Again, not trying to be a jerk about it, but a competent shop would have been able to put the headset in. They deal with slight tolerance variances on a regular basis. That is exactly what a park headset facing and reaming tool is for and the shop should have one.

    Here is what that tool looks like:
    Park Tool Co. » HTR-1B : Head Tube Reaming and Facing Set : Frame & Fork Tools

    (Edit: removed one paragraph to leave just the main point of the reply)
    What I mean by the shop had a hard time pressing the cups in is just that... the mech worked on it for quite a while... the bottom cup went in no prob, but the top cup seemed to be a quite struggle and he was cranking on the press harder than I cared to witness. I spoke up to see if there was something wrong. He mumbled that the HT was tight, then proceeded to start over on the top cup, eventually enlisting the help of another mech to hold the frame steady in the rack while he cranked away on the press. After pressing in the cups, he had to press in the bearings, which I believe should have gone in fairly easily judging by my past experience with CC 40 series headsets. Shortly thereafter he brought the bearing over asking if the headset had been used before and showed me the damage and that it wouldn't even rotate, at all.

    I was really not happy seeing this and I completely agree that the HT should have been measured, faced if neccessary, etc. I don't know what the ID of the tube was. I'm a bike rider, not a bike mechanic, therefore I trusted, and payed, to have the work done by a professional. In the end it worked out and I am happily riding my bike now, so it's really a moot point, but just something I wanted to point out so that others don't run into the same situation when building their bikes.

    For a guy like me who only builds up a new bike every 2-3 years or so, it didn't make a lot of financial sense to buy a quality press and reamer when I could just take the thing down to the LBS and have them do it for a modest amount and support their business all the while. However, it's looking more appealing now. Like someone else had mentioned, whenever I've taken new frames to the shops in my area, I usually get the "are you an alien?" look whenever I've inquired about facing/chasing.
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  23. #298
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    i too have a prob with the top cup of a CC zs44 headset. i have a press and couldnt get the damn top cup in so i took it to the shop. i forgot my wallet so when i returned they had it in. i ripped it around the block upon returning home and the thing creeks like no other. i had extra bearings from a s-8 so i threw those in, but not without the use of a mallet, this isn't right. long story short i inquired about reaming n facing with an upper at canfield and i was reassured that that they were good to go outta the box. yeah not so much. looks like i need a new HS and a reaming, lol ;/

  24. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notch Johnson View Post
    What I mean by the shop had a hard time pressing the cups in is just that... the mech worked on it for quite a while... the bottom cup went in no prob, but the top cup seemed to be a quite struggle and he was cranking on the press harder than I cared to witness. I spoke up to see if there was something wrong. He mumbled that the HT was tight, then proceeded to start over on the top cup, eventually enlisting the help of another mech to hold the frame steady in the rack while he cranked away on the press. I was really not happy seeing this and I completely agree that the HT should have been measured, faced if neccessary, etc. I don't know what the ID of the tube was. I'm a bike rider, not a bike mechanic, therefore I trusted, and payed, to have the work done by a professional. In the end it worked out and I am happily riding my bike now, so it's really a moot point, but just something I wanted to point out so that others don't run into the same situation when building their bikes.

    Like someone else had mentioned, whenever I've taken new frames to the shops in my area, I usually get the "are you an alien?" look whenever I've inquired about facing/chasing.
    your experience was parallel to mine. the mechanic acted in a similar fashion.


    The Headtube measured to 43.56 to 43.63 from memory. That is tight. too tight in my opinion. From the link above from Park Tools the reamer will cut to ID of 43.95mm so cups of 44 to 44.1 will fit without binding.

    I asked many shop owners and shop mechanics some who are personal friends and
    the response was that a shop quality ream and face kit can cost upwards of $750.
    A few had the fittings for 1.125 headtubes but no one had the fittings for 44mm.
    It's just not a service that has a lot of frequency.
    In my case a Chris King internal headset (zero stack) to run a 1.125 straight steerer fork is a complete Fail. The cups collapse when fully pressed and the bearings are frozen.
    A steel head tube will stretch when pressing in the cups and may give enough to accept the cup and race and have no issues, so this problem with bearing binding is dependent on the tolerance of the frame and the headset used.

    I don't realistically see reaming and facing as a solution to my instance, unless I want to drop some big bucks on a tool I'll use once. So it looks like a different head set, but others here are reporting concerns with different makes also.

    If there is anyone reading this who knows of or has access to the proper tools send me a PM, Please. I'm wiling to ship to a shop to have this done.

    I am starting a new build of another frame and going to shelf this until a time when I can dedicate more to the issue

  25. #300
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    The $750 cost he quoted is for an entire facing and reaming set. To buy the 44mm reaming head for their existing tool is around $150 (or less if they shop around). It would be worthwhile for the shop to buy the proper equipment. 44mm headtubes aren't that rare and they've already ruined at least one bearing by attempting to do it without proper tools. Hopefully they didn't ovalize the headtube as well. That would truly suck!

    Shops really should be using the right tools instead of just jamming headsets in with brute force. For people working on their own bike at home, it doesn't make sense to buy expensive tools. But it only takes one screw up for a shop to justify the purchase. Sooner or later, they'll ruin a frame. They probably already have and bike owners didn't realize that the reason their headtube creaks or cracks was because of sloppy work at their local bike shop.

    Sorry, I know that doesn't help you and you certainly haven't done anything wrong. I hope you find a solution soon!

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