These guys make great bikes, so stoked brah..
Full grown up version:
I have been riding bikes since I was a kid, as with most everyone else. My first Mountain Bike was a wal-mart special, fully ridged with crap parts. I rode it as a teenager but school, girls, cigarettes and cars took precedence back then. I even worked in a shop for a little while during high school and saw the new fancy suspension forks and eventually dual suspension bikes start popping up. My first “real” mtb was a Gary Fisher Joshua in orange, complete with V-brakes and a whopping 2” of rear suspension, I think.. It didn’t take me long to figure out that the only reason I would ever ride up these trails is so I could bomb down them as fast as I could. I broke nearly everything on that bike, beefed it up with heavier and heavier parts until eventually the frame cracked and it was done. My next bike was a Foes F2 with a Monster T, and while I was never able to break anything major on that rig, but boy was it a pain to push uphill.
Over the next 15 years I fought hard with the fact that any bike that can handle the downs was a pain to get to the top, and anything that could get to the top with ease would not likely get down in one piece. I love gravity riding but lifts are only open ¼ of the year and you can’t shuttle all of them! Let’s just say I went through a lot of parts, frame swaps, borrowed bikes, demos and rentals to get where I am today.
My first call to Sean was in June of ’12, I had spotted a discounted ’11 The ONE on their website and wanted to verify that it was available still. Sean confirmed it was available and offered me any shock I wanted and even discounted the shipping cost, at which point I could not refuse. I was really close to buying a used Nomad that I found, but after talking with Sean about brand loyalty and customer service I felt obligated, or rather obliged, to get the frame from Canfield, even if it was going to be more expensive.
The first version of The ONE I built was my first time building a bike from the ground up. I picked out all the parts, found some deals, read a lot, and went with a dual crown 888 and a 2x9 transmission. I had my shop do the build as I felt a little uneasy having never done it. They did a stellar job, but it’s Mojo’s, I would expect nothing less from them, top notch shop.
Elka stage 5,
formula the one brakes,
holzfeller cranks @170mm and bash,
mrp 2x guide,
ex823’s on pro2’s.
Bike weighed heavy at 39lbs. The gearing I went with was 24/36 x 11-34t. I put the rear shock in the lower hole for 8” travel and while I have tried the shorter option, I never saw a reason for it as the pedal stroke is no different in either setting. Overall, my intention was to have a bike that I could DH at the parks but still be able to pedal around the loop trails in my area. This bike worked AMAZING for that purpose! I rode most every weekend at Trestle bike park and still took it around the CO front range area and pedaled uphill during the weeks. Naturally this bike sits at 13.8 bb height and 64 deg head tube, so it did struggle on some of the steeper ups and gave me quite a few pedal strikes. Most of the CO trails are quite rocky and navigating them without striking the pedals is quite the chore sometimes, and while I have been riding for a long time, I am not very strong at pedaling nor do I have amazing amounts of endurance. Someone with more skill and stamina than me could really make this thing shine.
The pedaling power is what really struck me about this bike. While there was natural pedal bob from the forces of my leg pushing down, there is NONE generated from the actual motion of the crank spinning. I really noticed this when I would change gears from the 36 outer ring to the 24 inner. Different gearing, same ratios, but the smaller ring always has a burst of acceleration as soon as you hit it. I found myself staying in the lower front ring as long as I could most of the time for this benefit. I looked into it and the reason for this is the up and forward curve in the lower suspension link. The design is such to prevent the rear triangle from being pulled in or traveling upwards under pressure from the cranks, mainly with a smaller ring. If you can imagine an increasing chainring size in the front, the larger it gets the more it pulls the rear triangle up, and the smaller it gets, the more it pulls the rear triangle in towards the bb. The curve in the link gives a natural lockout when using the smaller rings, forcing the curve of the rear triangle to go up for bumps and obstacles but locking it out whilst the crank and small ring are pulling it in towards the bb. I’m not sure where the breaking point is, but I know that there is a noticeable difference between a 24 and a 36 ring and how much of your pedal power is transferred to the wheel. It’s also really noticeable when you stand up to mash the pedals. If you have a very clean pedal stroke you can crank this thing uphill with ease, but as soon as you stand up on the pedals and mash away, you are reminded that you are, in fact, riding an 8” travel bike. This is where the geo comes in again with shining colors, as the seat tube angle makes this bike do the crossover with grace. With the seat low you have a very capable FR/DH bike that rips corners and berms, jumps with pop and handles DH with all the other 8” bikes. Put that seat up high and pedal smoothly, you don’t even notice the suspension anymore. The main benefit to this is having little to no pedal induced bob while retaining your full suspension travel over bumps. Even going uphill it lets your bike roll over stuff instead of locking or stiffening the suspension like most of the competition.
Having spent a summer on this bike, loving it, I decided to make some changes to the geo to make it more AM friendly for winter riding away from shuttles and lift service. Which brings up one of the strongest parts about this frame; By swapping out just a few parts you can take this bike very close to both ends of the spectrum, AM parts for climbing and a mountain goat of a bike, heavy DH parts and you have a DH race bike. I had a chance, again, to pick up a frame from them on the cheap, so I did it and got one of the last ’12 frames with updated geo, only thing that changed was a slightly higher BB and a now 65 deg head tube. I wanted a little steeper HA and higher BB so these were perfect modifications for me. I swapped the 888 out for a new 66 ti, which is 10mm shorter, which I got right back by swapping from an internal lower cup to external. I went even a little further with a 1.5 deg sweep in on an angleset. On the back end, I decided to go with a 1x system and the smallest ring I could muster. For this, I went with a spider-less X0 crank @165 and a MRP Bling Ring 28t. I also dropped down to the MRP G2SL Micro Guide which further increased the clearance at the BB. This presented a problem for me, though, as most cassettes have 11 as the smallest sprocket, and 28x11 is a pretty slow top end.
Enter the Canfield Bro’s 9t Micro Drive Hub. Using this hub with a 10 speed setup, I have a low end of 28x36 and a top end of 28x9, which, if you crunch the numbers, is just shy of the full range of my previous 24/36t x 11-34t. The range on this hub is absolutely amazing for being a 1x system, and I was able to eliminate the weight and clutter of the second ring, FD, shifter and cable. SRAM’s XX1 series is the only thing close to the range currently and is drastically more expensive for the full set. The setup on this hub and cassette conversion was a breeze as well. I used the PG 1070 and the 4 lower rings just get swapped out for the stack from Canfield, which just stacks one on top of the other and the final lock ring threads on and locks it all securely. It’s a very simple and effective design, another winner from Canfield!!
Here is my ’12 version:
This version of the ONE is just outstanding. The updates took care of the main issues I had with the geo, and my build choices with the C2 parts made for one fun ride! It lost a lot of weight with the new crank, lighter wheels and smaller fork, and it showed. This bike rips the trails! It naturally wants to go fast, the magical pedaling power not only works to jam up the climbs smoothly and with ease, it also retained most of the DH capabilities of my previous dual crown, heavy wheeled build. As the pedaling power is such a strong suit with this bike, I found I enjoyed it most where the terrain was not overly steep up or down. Perfect example is Porcupine Rim in Moab. The first climb has always been tough for me but this bike just ate it up, it keeps traction to the dirt so well and your pedal stroke just moves the bike so fast, I was blown away first time I took this bike up that. Once you start descending a little there are some long flat-ish spots with lots of rocks. As this is an old jeep trail there are a few lines to choose from, all of which very rough. On a big travel bike it gets exhausting pedaling through those, and on a smaller bike they can really beat you up. The ONE ate it for breakfast and kept going. I really noticed the suspension doing its job over the rocks, and I was surprised to see how fast I could pedal through it at the same time. Both the suspension and transmission work together so flawlessly that neither interferes with one another, both work great and don’t hamper the others performance. A truly unique and flawless design… Fun, fast, graceful.
After letting a friend ride this bike a few times he said I couldn’t have it back. I was forced to sell it to him at a minor financial loss, but the gain in riding buddies usually outweighs a few dollars. This also gave me a chance to pick up the latest ’13 ONE frame fresh off the boat and make a few modifications to the build to refine it to perfection.
Here’s the ‘13, still haven't taken any good shots, sorry..
Xfusion Vector HLR Ti Coil
Xfusion Vengeance HLR
Easton Havoc 35mm stem
Easton Havoc 35mm Carbon Bar
Formula T1s brakes
Ice tech 203 rotors
RS Reverb Stealth post
MRP Micro guide
C2 Crampon Mag pedals
X0 DH Carbon cranks
X0 10s twist shift
X9 Type2 RD
MRP Blingring 28t
C2 9T Micro hub
Hope Pro2 evo front
LB Carbon rims
Nukeproof Plasma Ti saddle
Odi Rogue lock on grips
I’ve been riding this version for just a few short months and it is amazing. I think this is the perfect build for this bike, at least for what I want to use it for.
Having been so utterly impressed with the suspension design of the ONE, as well as the outstanding service I had received from Sean every time I had any type of issue or question, I decided that 1 $7k bike just wasn’t cutting it anymore, and I should get another. Why have 1, when you can have 2 for twice the price?! This time I was going for the big brother, the famed Canfield Jedi…
After some conversation with my brother, whom I had gotten addicted to DH just the previous summer, we sent a request to Sean again. This time for 2 brand new Jedi frames. Sean and the Bros were happy to oblige and before we knew it we had 2 beautiful metal and engineering works of art on our doorsteps. This frame was once a faraway dream for me, and now I had one in front of me with the means to make it howl! Just like with the frames I had gotten from them in the past, I was immediately blown away at the craftsmanship and attention to detail with the frame build and welding. I didn’t know if I should hang it on the wall under spotlights or huck it off some rocks, in the end the latter proved the wise decision.
Elka Stage 5/ Marzocchi Roco WC Coil spare shock
888 RC3 Evo Ti
Renthal Integra DM stem
SMAC Innovations 820mm wide bar White
Formula R0 Brakeset
Shimano Ice Tech Rotors 203mm
CC 110 headset Red
X9 9s trigger shifter
X0 DH Carbon Crankset 165mm 83mm GXP BB
Canfield Crampon Magnesium Pedals Red
MRP G2 SL Micro Guide
MRP 32t Bling Ring
Shimano Caprio Cassette 9-26
X9 9-speed derailleur - NEW
Rear Wheel Mavic EX 823 -> Canfield 9t Micro Drive hub
Front Wheel Mavic EX 823 -> Hope Pro 2 Evo Red
I can’t say enough about this bike… The rumors and claims are true, this thing eats the gnarliest lines and feels like it’s accelerating through them! The rearward axel path really does work as intended, allowing the forward momentum to pull the rear wheel up and over square rocks and deep roots without losing any speed. Going off of drops or jumps, any time you get deep in the suspension the bike just rockets forward. This might seem dangerous or frightening if it weren’t for how amazingly stable the bike is at speeds. There were many times this last season that I had a solitary moment of “oh no this won’t end well…” and the bike just walked right out of it. “Confidence inspiring” is a term I have heard used for this bike but that’s just the tip of the iceberg for me, riding this bike is like cheating. I always rode to have fun and never tried to push myself over the limit, but with this bike I keep pushing and pushing and it just keeps going and going. By the end of my first season on the Jedi I felt I had progressed more than in the last 10 years of riding. I’ve demo’ed almost all of the major bikes available from shops in my area over the last few years, and while a lot of them were amazing rides (like the V10c and the Glory), none of them felt as good as this bike, straight out of the gate. A lot of the bikes took a while to get comfortable on or used to, but the moment I threw a leg over the Jedi I felt right at home. I had read about issues with jumping the Jedi but I never had that big of an issue. One thing I did notice that might give this impression is the bike’s responsiveness to the suspension settings, if you have the wrong settings you can get a harsh reaction. This is natural to any bike, obviously, but seemed to be very dramatic on the Jedi. I tried 4 different shocks on it; Elka Stage 5, Marz Roco WC, CCDB coil, and Xfusion Vector coil, and spent some time riding with adjustments all over the place. The CCDB was my least favorite as it was the hardest to tune correctly, but once I it got into the sweep spot it was very lively and plush. The Elka I had them valve specifically for the Jedi and was very fast rebound, only had 3 clicks on the slow end before it became way too fast for comfort, then another 8 or 10 clicks of buck-you-over type rebound. The Roco and Vector both were my favs, very easy to tune and had a wide range of adjustments on both ends. I was able to find the sweet spots on these the easiest and had amazing feel, just a few turns and I was rockin’! To anyone having problems with jumping the Jedi, the issue is most likely with the suspension settings. After finding the right spots for each shock I was going faster off the jumps, with way more air time and distance than I had previously on any bike I had ridden. If you’re the type that likes to change up settings for different tracks this bike is the golden ticket. Minor changes to suspension give this bike a wide range of characteristics from plush and fast for rough tracks to stiff and slow for high speed jump tracks.
I’ve heard Canfield’s customer base referred to as “cult-like”, and that does not surprise me. With the kind of products and support they offer, it’s hard not to be loyal. They’ve set the bar a notch higher with this kind of customer service, other companies will have a hard time catching up with these guys!
Thanks for reading!
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