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  1. #1
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    Reputation: juan pablo's Avatar
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    Help with a 2012 One build

    Guys, I need some info to help choose parts for a One build. Primarily I want to start the build as an AM/FR bike. I currently have a 2010 Jedi for baller DH but it sucks too much energy for FR and flater DH sections. So my DH bike is currently covered.
    I am ordering up a 9t hub since I dont have a 142x12mm and I will be going 1x10. So reading up I see for front ring selection I need to be looking at a 28/30t ring. I also saw I need to go spiderless. Not been down this road before so is this true? I would then be looking at a set of middleburns but I am sure I saw some info with issues on the RS7/8s. Anyone can clear up what I should be looking for. I am a SLX die hard.
    I will be running a 170mm Lyrik but I would like to steepen the HA to 66*. So I will be installing a Angle set. What specs am I looking for to match the head tube?
    What is the HA change when switching from short shock to long shock? Fortunately I have both shocks since my current bikes have this configuration. I am just interested to know what the change will be when I switch out the Lyrik for my Boxxer. 66* for AM and 64.5-65* is perfect for my tracks.
    Lastly, what is the static chainstay length? Looking at the geo chart it has 17.4mm listed.. not sure if this is static or under compression. The One also has rearward travel so i am interested to know what the length will be under compression since 17.4" is already longer than normal for me as a AM bike.

    Still trying to get my head around that super low BB height. I am about to check the lower stack height of available angle sets but if memory serves me well a CC lower stack is 5mm.
    I just want to ride.

  2. #2
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    Reputation: Calhoun's Avatar
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    Middleburns are not your only option for 28/30t. There a couple of Sram (Truvativ) cranksets that are spiderless. I am using a X9 crankset and a 28t MRP blingring. I am loving this set up, but with a low BB (by using shorter fork) I suggest going with a shorter crankset than you are used to.

    https://www.bti-usa.com/public/item/TV0567
    https://www.bti-usa.com/public/item/MP8100
    Last edited by Calhoun; 09-09-2012 at 07:27 PM.
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

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  3. #3
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    planning on my usual crank length of 170mm. 165mm for DH but for AM/FR and enduro I dont feel
    165mm is the correct length.
    I just want to ride.

  4. #4
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    If you're not not running Canfield pedals, you could go 165 and get back the leverage of a 170 with the Canfield pedals AND pickup 5mm more ground clearance. Those suckers are thin and I love mine, worth every penny.
    2011 Canfield ONE 200mm DH 35 pounds
    2010 Specialized Pitch 100% non stock 29 lbs
    Wife: 2009 Canfield ONE also 29 lbs

  5. #5
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    You'll only need to go spiderless if you want a front ring 32t and under. The reason for that is because the only manufacturer (that i know of) that provides a guide for a 32t-28t is MRP. So yes, if you want to run either a 28 or 30t it'll have to be spiderless. Actually, I believe that Anderson Machine Works does a 30t ring with a 104bcd, which means you could run the SLX's and a regular 32t guide. And while on the spiderless subject, MRP only offers rings to suite Sram's application. The other option is Homebrewed Components, but I highly recommend to stay clear of that organization.

    Regarding the Middleburns, I tried to make the RS7's(with a 32t) match with MRP's Micro Guide, it just didn't jive. The inner-upper part of the RS7's arms would rub against both the top and bottom guides. Because of the way the ring was designed (dished), it required both the guides to be spaced outboard which made the arms/guides clash.

    Good qusetion regaring the HA change regarding a 216mm eye to eye shock. Hopefully the bro's/bro's rep's could chime in for that answer. I run a 222 x 63 shock, keeps the bb height under control.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by juan pablo View Post
    planning on my usual crank length of 170mm. 165mm for DH but for AM/FR and enduro I dont feel
    165mm is the correct length.
    agreed, 170 should be great
    "Mi amor Nuevo Miércoles!"

    -cabra cadabra

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by crossup View Post
    If you're not not running Canfield pedals, you could go 165 and get back the leverage of a 170 with the Canfield pedals AND pickup 5mm more ground clearance. Those suckers are thin and I love mine, worth every penny.
    thats an interesting perspective.
    I just want to ride.

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