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  1. #1
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    Cranks for the One

    Looks like I'm going to pull the trigger on a One next week so I will need some new cranks. Thinking about the XO, but looking for other opinions. Also, what length are most running?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jimi1114 View Post
    Looks like I'm going to pull the trigger on a One next week so I will need some new cranks. Thinking about the XO, but looking for other opinions. Also, what length are most running?
    Nice man!!! We'd strongly recommend keeping the cranks nice and short. 165mm-170mm MAX. If you are going all-mountain, be sure to use an external headset to keep the BB raised. I have an internal/Marz 55 combo and my BB is super low. (Really dig the low height in the PNW, but I couldn't of gotten away with it if I was still back in New England.)

    As far as specific cranks, XO's are a great option. I've been on a set of Race Face Next Carbons for a few years now and have been really happy with them as well.

    Feel free to let us know if you have any other build questions!

    Vin
    Last edited by KillingtonVT; 01-27-2013 at 08:54 AM.

  3. #3
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    totally off topic but what length recommended for a yelli screamy??

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    Get the X0!! Then you can get a MRP bling ring and G2 SL Micro Guide, looks the sex. Run the bling ring as a 28t and match that to a C2 9t hub with 10s conversion kit so it becomes 9-36t in the back. Your gear ratios are very comparable to a 2x10 system with a fraction of the weight, and no front derailleur!!

    I just got my hubs yesterday! I'm waiting on rims so's I can build up some new wheels and then I can swap the tranny out.



    :edit: and as Vin said, keep them short. I got mine in a 165 length. Also, the ONLY sram crank that is compatible with the MRP bling ring AND comes in a 165 is the X0, AND, the DH version is stronger from what I understand.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by KillingtonVT View Post
    Nice man!!! We'd strongly recommend keeping the cranks nice and short. 165mm-170mm MAX. If you are going all-mountain, be sure to use an external headset to keep the BB raised. I have an internal/Marz 55 combo and my BB is super low. (Really dig the low height in the PNW, but I couldn't of gotten away with it if I was still back in New England.)

    As far as specific cranks, XO's are a great option. I've been on a set of Race Face Next Carbons for a few years now and have been really happy with them as well.

    Feel free to let us know if you have any other build questions!

    Vin
    So the 170mm will work with an external headset?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimi1114 View Post
    So the 170mm will work with an external headset?
    It depends... There are several factors that go into that. Head tube angle (with angleset or equivalent), fork length, rear shock setting, etc...

    I ride mine mainly FR/AM and I live in CO, so the low BB causes me headaches sometimes when trying to pedal up rock fields or maneuver over tech sections. My pedals have lost a significant amount of paint on rocks...

    I have mine set up with an angleset +1.5, so from the natural 65 I'm at 66.5, that gets you a little higher off the ground. My fork length is 564 and I have an external lower cup on the headset, and the higher I lift my front end the slacker the headset gets, so with those I 'should' be at about 66 deg on the head tube angle. I ride in the 8" mode all the time as this helps keep the BB higher, and... why not? This setup has lessened my pedal strikes somewhat, and when I do get my new (165) cranks installed I should be very comfortable (fingers crossed).

    In short, yes, the 170's will work, but you might experience some pedal strikes with them if you don't take measures to lift the front end and subsequently the BB. Terrain you ride plays into that a lot as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheRage43 View Post
    It depends... There are several factors that go into that. Head tube angle (with angleset or equivalent), fork length, rear shock setting, etc...

    I ride mine mainly FR/AM and I live in CO, so the low BB causes me headaches sometimes when trying to pedal up rock fields or maneuver over tech sections. My pedals have lost a significant amount of paint on rocks...

    I have mine set up with an angleset +1.5, so from the natural 65 I'm at 66.5, that gets you a little higher off the ground. My fork length is 564 and I have an external lower cup on the headset, and the higher I lift my front end the slacker the headset gets, so with those I 'should' be at about 66 deg on the head tube angle. I ride in the 8" mode all the time as this helps keep the BB higher, and... why not? This setup has lessened my pedal strikes somewhat, and when I do get my new (165) cranks installed I should be very comfortable (fingers crossed).

    In short, yes, the 170's will work, but you might experience some pedal strikes with them if you don't take measures to lift the front end and subsequently the BB. Terrain you ride plays into that a lot as well.
    Thanks for the feedback, great stuff. I will be using an older, 2007, Zoke 66 ETA 180 fork. So not sure what this will do to the head angle and will most likely run in the 8" mode. I donít have the cranks yet but found a pretty good deal on some XO's DH that are 170 so just checking before I buy.

  8. #8
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    I'd recommend anything that can go spiderless. It'll give you all the flexibility you'll ever need. I'm really happy with XO's I have.

    Mine is set up with 165mm X0 DH's, 28t Bling, Microguide and 9t Microdrive. Best bloody setup I've ever had.
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    Just curious, what does your bike weigh and how does the climbing compare to the better 28-30 pound 6" AM bikes? Love the bike, just want to make sure it can climb as well as some of the other bikes I am considering.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigcrs View Post
    I'd recommend anything that can go spiderless. It'll give you all the flexibility you'll ever need. I'm really happy with XO's I have.

    Mine is set up with 165mm X0 DH's, 28t Bling, Microguide and 9t Microdrive. Best bloody setup I've ever had.
    Appreciate the feedback. Hopefully the 170s will work as I am going to go for the XOs I found.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by dawgman25 View Post
    Just curious, what does your bike weigh and how does the climbing compare to the better 28-30 pound 6" AM bikes? Love the bike, just want to make sure it can climb as well as some of the other bikes I am considering.
    Mine weighs in at 30.5 with my AM build. Climbing is unique to say the least on the One... It's like nothing else out there in the way it out climbs just about every 6" bike on the market and you can get WAY rowdier on the way down.

    Here is a great video review that one of our customers, Saul Mayo, sent us a few weeks ago. He talks about the pedaling efficiency a TON in his review:

  12. #12
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    Thanks for that info, that is a great review. Hard to believe this thing can climb better than a 6" bike that is 5 pounds lighter. I guess weight doesn't matter as much if it can climb that efficient. So if I had a DB Air on a ONE and some carbon wheels along with a single ring set up, I should be able to be around 30 pounds assuming I have top notch components?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by dawgman25 View Post
    Thanks for that info, that is a great review. Hard to believe this thing can climb better than a 6" bike that is 5 pounds lighter. I guess weight doesn't matter as much if it can climb that efficient. So if I had a DB Air on a ONE and some carbon wheels along with a single ring set up, I should be able to be around 30 pounds assuming I have top notch components?
    My bike is the build on our The One page. Light parts, but not super light. I think you can get it around 30 pretty easily!
    Last edited by KillingtonVT; 01-28-2013 at 09:27 PM.

  14. #14
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    28 tooth?

    How does the 28t ring feel? My buddy had a Hammershmidt on his One and it felt terrible. Felt like you were riding a caterpillar, kind of an up and down, start stop feel. I have a 32t on mine which feels great pedaling but I would like to go to a 30t for the long grinds.

  15. #15
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    Ordered the last thing I need for my build the other day!

    Hopefully the 170mm cranks work well for me. I've got a 565mm fork with 12mm lower cup and going to run 8" mode. Cant wait to try the X0 / 28T bling ring / micro guide. I'm only running a 9spd 11-34T though. 11-36T 10 speed doesnt seem worth the upgrade at this point.
    6'5" 230lbs
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by KillingtonVT View Post
    Nice man!!! We'd strongly recommend keeping the cranks nice and short. 165mm-170mm MAX. If you are going all-mountain, be sure to use an external headset to keep the BB raised. I have an internal/Marz 55 combo and my BB is super low. (Really dig the low height in the PNW, but I couldn't of gotten away with it if I was still back in New England.)

    As far as specific cranks, XO's are a great option. I've been on a set of Race Face Next Carbons for a few years now and have been really happy with them as well.

    Feel free to let us know if you have any other build questions!

    Vin
    In regards to headsets for "the one" do you guys have a recommendation for an aggressive AM/FR build with a 1 1/8 steer tube? Nothing too flashy expensive, just solid and reliable?

    This is the first build I've ever done and am a little mixed up on the right head set for this bike. Thanks for the input!
    -t

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by t-sixtyfive View Post
    In regards to headsets for "the one" do you guys have a recommendation for an aggressive AM/FR build with a 1 1/8 steer tube? Nothing too flashy expensive, just solid and reliable?

    This is the first build I've ever done and am a little mixed up on the right head set for this bike. Thanks for the input!
    -t
    You need a 1.5 reducer headset to 1 1/8. Something like this: Universal Cycles -- FSA Big Fat Pig Reducer Headset

    Price range varies but Cane Creek, Chris King, FSA, and a few others all make them.
    6'5" 230lbs
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by t-sixtyfive View Post
    In regards to headsets for "the one" do you guys have a recommendation for an aggressive AM/FR build with a 1 1/8 steer tube? Nothing too flashy expensive, just solid and reliable?

    This is the first build I've ever done and am a little mixed up on the right head set for this bike. Thanks for the input!
    -t
    65 deg head tube is a little slack for my taste, at least for an AM bike I want to pedal up. Great all around, right in the middle of what is considered good for AM and good for DH.

    So I went with the CC angleset. With a +1.5 deg cup I get up to 66.5 which is more what AM should have. Or if I want I can go -1.5 down to where a real DH bike is, and lower the BB. I have a straight 1 1/8 steer tube, and it was honestly a chore finding an External Cup for the angleset. I had my shop help me find it in BTI, but it does exist. What it is, the EC bottom cup 0 deg, 1 1/5 gimbal and bearing, and 1 1/5 > 1 1/8 reducing crown race.

    If you don't want all that jazz I also recommend the CC 110 series and the 40, both quite adequate and available in several color options.

  19. #19
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    Got the One on the way. Let the build begin. Just trying to figure our what cranks. Was into the XOs, but man those e13 TRS look pretty sweet and I believe around the same weight. For the rest of the drive train will most likely go with Shimano XT/XTR.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimi1114 View Post
    Got the One on the way. Let the build begin. Just trying to figure our what cranks. Was into the XOs, but man those e13 TRS look pretty sweet and I believe around the same weight. For the rest of the drive train will most likely go with Shimano XT/XTR.
    I didn't notice until now but e13 has also gone spiderless. I wasnt even considering them. Oh well, I guess I can live with X0
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtnord View Post
    I didn't notice until now but e13 has also gone spiderless. I wasnt even considering them. Oh well, I guess I can live with X0
    I had not noticed that either, but it does appear that they have a 28, 30, and 32t available for their direct mount system which 'should' work with the MRP MICRO guide, tho I am not sure on that one.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheRage43 View Post
    I had not noticed that either, but it does appear that they have a 28, 30, and 32t available for their direct mount system which 'should' work with the MRP MICRO guide, tho I am not sure on that one.
    If you can, you should take a look at them in person. Pretty bling but I bet they will be expensive.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheRage43 View Post
    I had not noticed that either, but it does appear that they have a 28, 30, and 32t available for their direct mount system which 'should' work with the MRP MICRO guide, tho I am not sure on that one.
    Before I ended up with the XO's I had a set of Middleburns RS7's delivered. And those cranks DID NOT jive with the Micro guide. The inner upper portion of the arm would rub hard against both the upper & lower guides on the Micro. No matter how many adjustment's I made it just didn't work.

    Good to see a new player in the spiderless market but make sure you don't end up with the same problem I had.

    I'm guessing now that E13 has gone with a spiderless crank to go with smaller rings a guide to suit wont be far off.
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  24. #24
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    Psyched on the E13 offering. Does anyone know if their spline is a proprietary shape, or is it compatible with the 'sram style' spline rings? Sure hope so.

    One more question regarding length of crank arms. Is the 5mm difference between a 165 and 170 really very noticeable in terms of rock strikes? If my tax return goes as I hope, I'll be picking up a One in the near future, and I don't want to shaft myself by using my current 170 cranks if I'll be hitting a lot more rocks.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by charging_rhinos View Post
    Psyched on the E13 offering. Does anyone know if their spline is a proprietary shape, or is it compatible with the 'sram style' spline rings? Sure hope so.

    One more question regarding length of crank arms. Is the 5mm difference between a 165 and 170 really very noticeable in terms of rock strikes? If my tax return goes as I hope, I'll be picking up a One in the near future, and I don't want to shaft myself by using my current 170 cranks if I'll be hitting a lot more rocks.
    Just by looking at the pic's on the site it looks like they have their own shape. They also advertize that they have a range of spiderless rings from 28t. What they don't seem to have yet is a guide that goes from 32t - 28t.

    I personally don't think 5mm of extra crank length will not make make a noticeable difference when it comes to strikes. The change I immediately noticed when i went from 175-165mm was that little less leg extension when peddling up. I'm not able to find that extra ~1/2 inch because of the dropper post I use, but switching to thinner pedals certainly helped.
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