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  1. #6001
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    If anyone has a Black XL frame with orange links they want to part with...

  2. #6002
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    I have no idea how you guys are getting your builds that light I'm on a medium frame with fox 36, GX drive train, truvativ carbon cranks, Nextie carbon wheels, and a fox float x which puts the bike over 32lbs. I've also got an Avalanche woodie I throw on for more rough stuff but that pushes it up to 35 lbs The bike rides sooo much better with the coil, but that's a ridiculous weight penalty to be carrying around on my local trails, so I tend to stick with the Float x. Even if I forked out the dough for X01, Next cranks, and carbon bars, there is still no way this bike weighs anywhere close to 30-31 lbs...

  3. #6003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Gigi View Post
    I have no idea how you guys are getting your builds that light I'm on a medium frame with fox 36, GX drive train, truvativ carbon cranks, Nextie carbon wheels, and a fox float x which puts the bike over 32lbs. I've also got an Avalanche woodie I throw on for more rough stuff but that pushes it up to 35 lbs The bike rides sooo much better with the coil, but that's a ridiculous weight penalty to be carrying around on my local trails, so I tend to stick with the Float x. Even if I forked out the dough for X01, Next cranks, and carbon bars, there is still no way this bike weighs anywhere close to 30-31 lbs...
    Carbon bar and lighter cassette is over a pound savings...so put the woodie back on lol!

  4. #6004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    Carbon bar and lighter cassette is over a pound savings...so put the woodie back on lol!
    Quit putting expensive ideas in my mind!

  5. #6005
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    30lbs 14oz

    -XL frame
    -Cane Creek 40 headset
    -renthal 40mm stem
    -renthal carbon bars
    -trail X0 brakes 200 front 180 rear rotor
    -X01 carbon cranks
    -Eagle X01 drivetrain
    -american classic hubs with lightbike carbon rims and high end sapim spokes (very light and strong wheelset)
    -maxxiss aggressor 2.3 rear, e13 front tire setup tubeless
    -9point8 fall line 175 post
    -wtb silverado team saddle
    -canfield mountain flat pedals
    -MRP ribbon fork
    -DVO topaz rear shock
    -Odi rogue grips
    -canfield seatpost collar

    I have a DVO topaz coil shock I throw on from time to time and it adds almost exactly a pound but I have the Topaz dialed and prefer it to the coil pretty close to everywhere now.

  6. #6006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Gigi View Post
    Quit putting expensive ideas in my mind!
    Haha sorry tried to do the same thing myself. But Riot an Avy are chocolate and peanut butter

  7. #6007
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    Don't feel bad Dr Gigi. My Balance with a Jade is over 35lbs as well. Even with planned upgrades I don't see a way below 33lbs. Sorry for the Balance comment.

  8. #6008
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    Quote Originally Posted by aenema View Post
    30lbs 14oz

    -XL frame
    -Cane Creek 40 headset
    -renthal 40mm stem
    -renthal carbon bars
    -trail X0 brakes 200 front 180 rear rotor
    -X01 carbon cranks
    -Eagle X01 drivetrain
    -american classic hubs with lightbike carbon rims and high end sapim spokes (very light and strong wheelset)
    -maxxiss aggressor 2.3 rear, e13 front tire setup tubeless
    -9point8 fall line 175 post
    -wtb silverado team saddle
    -canfield mountain flat pedals
    -MRP ribbon fork
    -DVO topaz rear shock
    -Odi rogue grips
    -canfield seatpost collar

    I have a DVO topaz coil shock I throw on from time to time and it adds almost exactly a pound but I have the Topaz dialed and prefer it to the coil pretty close to everywhere now.
    Thanks for the build list, your setup gives me a good idea of the weight I should expect. I think I'll be coming in at about the same weight you are. Here's the comparison just to be sure, let me know if I missed anything.

    Large frame, slightly lighter then XL?
    DVO Diamond +200g vs MRP Ribbon
    CC DBIL +/-0 vs DVO Topaz
    150mm dropper -50g vs 175mm Fall Line
    RF Alloy bars +50g vs Renthal carbon
    Zee -70g vs X0 Trail brakes
    XX1/X01 11spd -100g vs X01 Eagle
    Continental Der Kaiser +/-0 vs Maxxis Aggressor + E13 TRS Enduro
    Ibis 942 wheels +/-0 vs custom wheelset (assuming 460g rims and CX-Ray spokes)

  9. #6009
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    My wheels were about 1500 with tubeless tape and valve. They are pretty exceptionally light. Rest looks pretty close those.

  10. #6010
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    Quote Originally Posted by aenema View Post
    My wheels were about 1500 with tubeless tape and valve. They are pretty exceptionally light. Rest looks pretty close those.
    Nice, what rims are you running to pull off the 1500g weight? It looks like I'm going to have a difficult time getting down to 30lb, as my wheelset is about 150g heavier and I'm not saving much weight anywhere else.

  11. #6011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post
    Nice, what rims are you running to pull off the 1500g weight? It looks like I'm going to have a difficult time getting down to 30lb, as my wheelset is about 150g heavier and I'm not saving much weight anywhere else.
    My roval fattie sl carbons are in that ball park. Mine are dressed in cushcore though so I added a bit back to it for safety and feel sake.

  12. #6012
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    My roval fattie sl carbons are in that ball park. Mine are dressed in cushcore though so I added a bit back to it for safety and feel sake.
    I guess the additional spokes and extra width of the Ibis wheels tack on a decent weight penalty. Not a huge issue though, as I like their stiffness and ability to run low pressures. Looks like I may end up with a 30+ pound Riot.

  13. #6013
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    And your going to love it. Yes you might be a half second slower on the climbs, because of the extra weight, but you will more than make up for it on the other side going down. Fun bikes!

  14. #6014
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    My L Riot is a hair over 31 lbs, with carbon rims, handlebar, and cranks. MRP Stage and Float X.

    I think the biggest thing we're missing in these weight discussions are exact tyre specs. Just as an example, I have a Muddy Mary up front, but don't even know exactly anymore what width, folding vs wire, or rubber compound. The current 29er MM options range between 880g and 1350g in weight, so that can easily give a 2 lbs weight difference between builds depending on tyres.

    For me, I hate flats and love grips so I'd rather be on the safe side. Also don't want to change tyres if I go park riding for a day.

  15. #6015
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    Quote Originally Posted by drLEE View Post
    I think the biggest thing we're missing in these weight discussions are exact tyre specs.
    We're also missing... Fun. These weight discussions are so boring!

  16. #6016
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    Quote Originally Posted by CWnSWCO View Post
    We're also missing... Fun. These weight discussions are so boring!
    True. Typical desk job day time substitute for actual riding....

  17. #6017
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    I've played weight weenie a bit with this bike, and will probably continue to do so, because I plan to ride it for years and screwing with the bike is kind of a hobby unto itself for me.
    BUT, I really think wheels and tires are the only thing that makes a meaningful difference for most of the riding I usually do.
    For instance, I've run it singlespeed off and on-mostly on, for awhile now. Running it SS drops 1.2lbs of drivetrain weight. Haven't done it yet(but will) this time around, but I'm short, and have typically swapped from lighter SRAM 170mm cranks SS to heavier Canfield 165mm ones when geared. It's ~1.5lb difference, total. Strange as it may sound, the bike actually feels lighter to me with gears for whatever reason, even mimicking my SS ratio. Don't know or care why, that's just my perception.
    Faster rolling tires and ~200 grams less tire weight=instantly noticeable difference in how the bike pedals and behaves, though.
    My M Riot with Topaz and Pike is currently 29.4lbs(with 810 and 856g trail tires), and I could lose another pound by throwing money at the "problem" with carbon and lighter drivetrain parts. I'm still pretty enthused about dropping 3/4lb of wheel weight with a carbon set adequate for my needs(no real jumps or drops, just rough terrain), but equally convinced that, at least from a practical standpoint, all the little stuff I've counted grams over was a waste.
    I plan to ride more frequently at a place that requires more extended climbing, so weight may indeed make more difference in that respect. That's what I'm gonna tell myself anyway, so I have an excuse to keep "decorating" my Riot

    While I'm here..got to play rough for a little bit yesterday,
    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-34584059_10215804340164511_4096742452071759872_n.jpg

  18. #6018
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    I feel the same thing. Short people with short legs should use short cranks. It takes a lot of energy to over come the dead spot on longer cranks.

  19. #6019
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    Quote Originally Posted by OwenM View Post
    I've played weight weenie a bit with this bike, and will probably continue to do so, because I plan to ride it for years and screwing with the bike is kind of a hobby unto itself for me.
    BUT, I really think wheels and tires are the only thing that makes a meaningful difference for most of the riding I usually do.
    For instance, I've run it singlespeed off and on-mostly on, for awhile now. Running it SS drops 1.2lbs of drivetrain weight. Haven't done it yet(but will) this time around, but I'm short, and have typically swapped from lighter SRAM 170mm cranks SS to heavier Canfield 165mm ones when geared. It's ~1.5lb difference, total. Strange as it may sound, the bike actually feels lighter to me with gears for whatever reason, even mimicking my SS ratio. Don't know or care why, that's just my perception.
    Faster rolling tires and ~200 grams less tire weight=instantly noticeable difference in how the bike pedals and behaves, though.
    My M Riot with Topaz and Pike is currently 29.4lbs(with 810 and 856g trail tires), and I could lose another pound by throwing money at the "problem" with carbon and lighter drivetrain parts. I'm still pretty enthused about dropping 3/4lb of wheel weight with a carbon set adequate for my needs(no real jumps or drops, just rough terrain), but equally convinced that, at least from a practical standpoint, all the little stuff I've counted grams over was a waste.
    I plan to ride more frequently at a place that requires more extended climbing, so weight may indeed make more difference in that respect. That's what I'm gonna tell myself anyway, so I have an excuse to keep "decorating" my Riot

    While I'm here..got to play rough for a little bit yesterday,
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks for the info on wheels and tires. I'm planning to run my 1000g Der Kaisers until they are worn out, but when I replace them I will definitely be looking at 800-900g tires. What wheels are you running? My Ibis 942 wheels are on the heavier side for carbon at 1670g, but I'm not planning to replace them so it's a weight I'll have to work with.

  20. #6020
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    I've got Flow Mk3 front, Arch Mk3 rear on DT350 with CX-Ray spokes and brass nipples. They're 1829g.
    No complaints, or hurry to replace my wheels, just figure I'll do it at some point. Folks posting about ~1550g wheelsets with 400g AM layup rims that should be fine for my riding does tempt me!

  21. #6021
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    Hi,
    Anyone has an AVY damper?
    I have got it as present. I can not understand where is compression knob.

    Please give me instruction

  22. #6022
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    Quote Originally Posted by q232 View Post
    Hi,
    Anyone has an AVY damper?
    I have got it as present. I can not understand where is compression knob.

    Please give me instruction
    You need a small flat screwdriver. Insert it into the nut at the bottom of the fork.

    FYI you may need to file the sides of the flat head where it flares out to get it to fit. Craig at Avy sends a filed one with the cart
    Last edited by Cerberus75; 06-09-2018 at 09:20 AM.

  23. #6023
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    You need a small flat screwdriver. Insert it into the nut at the bottom of the fork.

    FYI you may need to file the sides of the flat head where it flares out to get it to fit. Craig at Avy sends a filed one with the cart
    Thank you for answer. I have one. Top is rebound and bottom is compression. Is it right?

  24. #6024
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    Correct. A dime works well for the rebound.

    I think the avy makes a fork great. Combined with the push coil..best fork on a trail bike ever.

  25. #6025
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    dvo diamond in 150mm is ok for the warranty or not?
    I dont want pike

  26. #6026
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darksoul View Post
    dvo diamond in 150mm is ok for the warranty or not?
    I dont want pike
    Iíve got 2 seasons on a dvo diamond and topaz on my riot. And Iíve been more then happy with it. I will never go back to fox or rockshox for suspension needs. For reference I have mrp on my other bikes and also more then pleased


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  27. #6027
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raleighguy29 View Post
    Iíve got 2 seasons on a dvo diamond and topaz on my riot. And Iíve been more then happy with it. I will never go back to fox or rockshox for suspension needs. For reference I have mrp on my other bikes and also more then pleased


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Ι hope to get it soon....
    topaz its just perfect and with a few rides just take it where I want it!

  28. #6028
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darksoul View Post
    Ι hope to get it soon....
    topaz its just perfect and with a few rides just take it where I want it!
    Iíve had my riot to windrock and snow shoe. Performance was excellent. FYI all 4 of my bikes are Canfields epo riot balance and nimble9. Would love to add a Jedi but I wonít ever get to enough bike parks to justify it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  29. #6029
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    My dvo came from germany a few days I can do it 140mm or 150mm its risky to installed at 150mm for the frame or not?
    canfield sent me mail and say NO for 150mm forks from any company and MRP of course!

  30. #6030
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darksoul View Post
    My dvo came from germany a few days I can do it 140mm or 150mm its risky to installed at 150mm for the frame or not?
    canfield sent me mail and say NO for 150mm forks from any company and MRP of course!

    I have a 150mm on mine. I ran a 140mm pike then threw a 150mm fork on it for shits and giggles. I think it rides better with the 150mm.

  31. #6031
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    Quote Originally Posted by pat12 View Post
    I have a 150mm on mine. I ran a 140mm pike then threw a 150mm fork on it for shits and giggles. I think it rides better with the 150mm.
    Any downsides with the fork at 150 with regards to the BB height? I hate how high the BB is to begin with, and worry with the increased height it will make it even more unstable at higher speeds. Are you running a coil in the rear?

  32. #6032
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpolism View Post
    Any downsides with the fork at 150 with regards to the BB height? I hate how high the BB is to begin with, and worry with the increased height it will make it even more unstable at higher speeds. Are you running a coil in the rear?
    I think it made it more stable. I love it. I bought a Dvo diamond and itís set up 140mm. Iím going to throw it on and see it there is a difference this week. And yes Iím running a coil rear shock.

  33. #6033
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darksoul View Post
    My dvo came from germany a few days I can do it 140mm or 150mm its risky to installed at 150mm for the frame or not?
    canfield sent me mail and say NO for 150mm forks from any company and MRP of course!
    What is the A-C length of your DVO? The frame was designed around a 551mm length Pike at 140mm. If it's longer than 551mm, you can run a zero stack lower headset to offset the extra length, bringing the geometry back inline with stock numbers. I'm running a 160mm Fox 36, which has a A-C of 567, but with a zero stack lower headset, and it handles perfectly for me. There was much discussion on this topic earlier in the thread..

  34. #6034
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    I read everything but worry for the warranty...and for my safe of course!
    I dont know what AtC has with 150mm the fork!
    what zero stuck bearings you use?
    works without problems or I will considering every ride if works well the bearings down there....

    I have the canecreek headset if its available in the same company the lower only zero stuck please one link and I find it where I will buy it

  35. #6035
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    If anyone is looking for a lightly used medium Riot frame PM me.
    I'm checking to see if there's any interest in it before I post an ad.

    Ano Black w/green links & seatpost clamp, CC 40 headset, and DVO Topaz shock.
    DVO Diamond fork and Garnet dropper also available.

  36. #6036
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    Anyone have any experience with offset shock bushings. Thinking about throwing a couple in to drop the bb and slack out the hta.

    Concerns looking for advice about are the following.

    1) wheel clearance at max shock compression (I know I can easily check this once I have them but be good to know before).

    2) what effect will the bushings have on linkage performance (the riot is supposed to be fairly position independent I think), will it really affect the performance of the bike?

    Thanks!

  37. #6037
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  38. #6038
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    I have a problem with the feature of the frame - the short chainstay... my heels touch the rear derailleur while in the harder gears (not while padeling - while rolling and jumping respectively landing; in my neutral position my left foot is in the front, my right is at the back)

    Does anybody else have this problem?
    Last edited by gfelix; 09-05-2018 at 04:27 AM. Reason: wrong content

  39. #6039
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    Quote Originally Posted by gfelix View Post
    I have a problem with the feature of the frame - the short chainstay... my heels touch the rear derailleur while in the harder gears (not while padeling - while rolling and jumping respectively landing; in my neutral position my right foot is in the front, my left is at the back)

    Does anybody else have this problem?
    Yep, this happens to me too. (But, you must mean your right foot. right?)
    My descending stance is right-foot-in-the-back. If I'm in the 2 or 3 smallest/hardest gears on the cassette, my right heel does hit the derrailleur sometimes. It's annoying.
    I sometimes try to switch my stance and ride left-foot-back (not that easy to switch).
    Mostly, I end up shifting the gear to the middle of the cassette, which isn't great, but works for me.

  40. #6040
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    Quote Originally Posted by CWnSWCO View Post
    Yep, this happens to me too. (But, you must mean your right foot. right?)
    you are right I corrected my question

    Quote Originally Posted by CWnSWCO View Post
    My descending stance is right-foot-in-the-back. If I'm in the 2 or 3 smallest/hardest gears on the cassette, my right heel does hit the derrailleur sometimes. It's annoying.
    I sometimes try to switch my stance and ride left-foot-back (not that easy to switch).
    Mostly, I end up shifting the gear to the middle of the cassette, which isn't great, but works for me.
    what derailleur do you use? I use a GX Eagle (but with 11xX01 Shifter and 11x cassette) and ask my selfe if another derailleur would solve or reduce the problem?
    And I use the frame with an boost wheel... beacause I read here it is possible

  41. #6041
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    Quote Originally Posted by gfelix View Post
    what derailleur do you use? I use a GX Eagle (but with 11xX01 Shifter and 11x cassette) and ask my selfe if another derailleur would solve or reduce the problem?
    And I use the frame with an boost wheel... beacause I read here it is possible
    I use Sram derrailleur (GX or XO) 11-speed. I use a non-Boost 142 wheel... so yours may be worse with 148mm.

  42. #6042
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    How big are your feet? Is it just grazing or more? A couple pedal washers could be you cheaper option.

  43. #6043
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    How big are your feet? Is it just grazing or more? A couple pedal washers could be you cheaper option.
    thanks for the answer

    EU 42 should be a 10,5 in US - not so big. I use FiveTen Maltese shoes
    I think it is to much for the spacers, but I'll give it a try

    which derailleur do you use?

  44. #6044
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    I use an xt M8000. I also only wear a size 8.5 shoe. I was looking at my bike trying to see how that can be a problem. Boost is just 3mm on one side maybe a BB spacer and pedal washer or 2 can help out. Make sure you don't ride heals in as well.

  45. #6045
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    I could definitely see some rub happening if you ride heels in. The Aeffect cranks on my Riot are very close to the chainstay, making it pretty easy to touch the stays with your heels. That said, I personally have not had problems, even with US size 12 shoes. I'm running a GX 11 derailleur and a boost wheel for reference.

  46. #6046
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    I use an xt M8000. I also only wear a size 8.5 shoe. I was looking at my bike trying to see how that can be a problem. Boost is just 3mm on one side maybe a BB spacer and pedal washer or 2 can help out. Make sure you don't ride heals in as well.


    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post
    I could definitely see some rub happening if you ride heels in. The Aeffect cranks on my Riot are very close to the chainstay, making it pretty easy to touch the stays with your heels. That said, I personally have not had problems, even with US size 12 shoes. I'm running a GX 11 derailleur and a boost wheel for reference.
    my heels are straight - I have no problems with any frame touching the chainstay. I think I should make a picture with the 12x GX


    ok, but than I'll mount a 11x X01. thanks vor telling your setup

  47. #6047
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    I wear a 11.5 5-10 freerider and never hit the RD with my heels while I had my Riot.
    Tallboy 3.1
    OG Ripley v2

  48. #6048
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    Quote Originally Posted by gfelix View Post
    my heels are straight - I have no problems with any frame touching the chainstay. I think I should make a picture with the 12x GX


    ok, but than I'll mount a 11x X01. thanks vor telling your setup
    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-2018-09-09-23.20.04.jpg


    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-2018-09-09-23.19.48.jpg

    this is with the gx 1x12 - how is it with your derailleurs?

  49. #6049
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    I fide the Q factor to be a little narrow with xt pedals (I ride with DMR Vtwins and stance is wider and i feel more on control personally ). A washer and sliding cleat a little more to the left might help.

  50. #6050
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    Good hint - I have another crank here - I will try. I thought the q-factor is always the same bost/nonboost
    I think it's a combination of crank, boost wheels and derailleur. in combination, it seems like a fasko on this frame. In bumpy passages or landings, it just does not feel good to hit the derailleur - besides, I think the hanger is already slightly bent :-(
    the washers are here now as well!

  51. #6051
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    I was recently checking the bolts on my Riot and noticed that the rear axle and its pinch bolt were a bit loose. It seems like the torque rating for all the bolts on the Riot is "just snug", but I'm wondering if I need to tighten the pinch bolt/axle up a bit more. What kind of torque have people been using for their rear axle and pinch bolt?

    Thanks for any input.

  52. #6052
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    You can get after it on the axle but don't torque the pinch bolt very much or you will crack the aluminum. I can't give you a spec but 'gently tight'.

  53. #6053
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    pull out the 2 axles down there and put some grease and all looses problems fixed!
    I did it and works fine be carefull its difficult but with one beer maybe you can do the job right!

  54. #6054
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darksoul View Post
    pull out the 2 axles down there and put some grease and all looses problems fixed!
    I did it and works fine be carefull its difficult but with one beer maybe you can do the job right!
    This is what i did when i got the bike, and do when i regrease everything. When greased and clean everything turns until it just stops. The pinch bolt i thighten till it feels tight, and check it periodically.

  55. #6055
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    Thanks for the info. I thew a bit of grease on the threads to ensure a smooth fit. When tightening up the axle, is it normal to hear a creak or groan right before the axle stops?

    I also noticed that the head of the axle (Salsa Deadbolt Extralight) seems to dig into the frame slightly when snugging the axle, creating a bit of a wear spot. Is this considered normal? Sorry if these questions are rather paranoid, I'm a bit overly afraid of damaging something. It doesn't help that I can't get a single torque spec for any of the bolts on the Riot.

    Thanks for the help.
    Last edited by Phoenix864; 4 Weeks Ago at 09:27 PM.

  56. #6056
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    Also, are there any other bolts or spots on the frame that should have grease or loctite applied? I'm thinking of pulling apart my frame and checking, regressing, and retightening everything back up.

    Thanks.

  57. #6057
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post
    Also, are there any other bolts or spots on the frame that should have grease or loctite applied? I'm thinking of pulling apart my frame and checking, regressing, and retightening everything back up.

    Thanks.
    Whats work for 3k milles for me. Blue on the pinch bolt. Grease everything

  58. #6058
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    Whats work for 3k milles for me. Blue on the pinch bolt. Grease everything
    Sounds good, I'll go ahead and do that. When tightening the rear axle after greasing it, is it normal to hear a bit of a creak or groan right before the axle stops?

    Thanks for the help.

  59. #6059
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post
    Sounds good, I'll go ahead and do that. When tightening the rear axle after greasing it, is it normal to hear a bit of a creak or groan right before the axle stops?

    Thanks for the help.
    No, grease the threads an axle better.

  60. #6060
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    No, grease the threads an axle better.
    Will do, hopefully some extra grease will silence the creak right before the axle is fully tightened.

  61. #6061
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    Ill post this in a few places. Some bikes are more harsh with the derailleur clutch engaged than others. The Riot has a lot Antisquat through the whole range of travel. And i feel a big difference on fast hits with it off. So try turning the clutch off to see how it feels before you go big money on a rear shock or give up on the bike. A chain device may just be what you need.

  62. #6062
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    Hi all,

    I've been dialing in my Topaz on the Riot, and was wondering how people like to run rebound and sag on the Riot. I've been aiming for roughly 28% (15-16mm) sag, but I don't really know where to start on rebound.

    DVO's site doesn't really offer much, and most online recommendations aren't with CBF in mind (it seems that different suspension designs prefer rather different amounts of rebound). I'm 170ish geared, and am looking for a composed and lively ride, even at the expense of plushness.

    Thanks for any help.

  63. #6063
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    If you have a chunky or rooty section. Id set the rebound 3/4 closed (slow) keep riding the section opening up or closing rebound till it feels right. I feel the Riot needs a lot of rebound. But when i run cushcore I Can open it up a bit.

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