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  1. #5901
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajak View Post
    Maxxis High Roller 2 2.5" WT x 29 on a WTB KOM i29 rim are a no go.
    I need to cancel my order then... I just ordered one. Thank you for posting up........ maybe I will put it on the front if I don't cancel.

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  2. #5902
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeter97 View Post
    Right on thanks for the info. The more I read the more Im starting to think a medium is just gonna be too small for me. At this point I may just give it a little time to see if they release a carbon Riot or just pull the trigger on a Trail Pistol


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    You swapping parts or just going full build?

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  3. #5903
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    You swapping parts or just going full build?

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    Mainly just swapping. 140mm Fox 34, XT brakes, XO1 drivetrain and dropper post are swapping over, the rest Ill piece together new. All coming off my lightly used Yelli


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  4. #5904
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    I need to cancel my order then... I just ordered one. Thank you for posting up........ maybe I will put it on the front if I don't cancel.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
    I just built a 2017 L Riot with i29 carbon rims and a Maxxis Aggressor 2.5WT in the rear and there's LOADS of clearance.

    Not the best picture, but I was concerned. I shouldn't have been.

    First ride today, but I don't expect any trouble
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-20180124_193107.jpg  


  5. #5905
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    damn. want.

  6. #5906
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    They keep growing. My aggressor 2.5 is now bigger than my minion dhf on the front. Here is a 2.3 high roller 2 and a 2.5 aggressor comparison. On 30 mm inner fatties sl wheels. It's pretty close on the drive side. Mud is a no go.


    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-uploadfromtaptalk1516988971496.jpg2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-uploadfromtaptalk1516988986521.jpg

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  7. #5907
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    If need be, Ill rotate the 2.5 aggressor up front when the minion 2.5 needs replacement and get a 2.3 or 2.4 for the back.


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  8. #5908
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    Digging that new Aggressor, will have to try it sooner rather than later, thanks for sharing.

    I've been meaning to post this since it's appropriately nerdy and pretty rad to boot.

    Start off, I'm a huge fan of the transformer-like qualities of my now nearly two year old riot. I rotate three shocks including a Jade, CCDBa and short stroke Fox RP23 all of which give the bike a slightly different personality, all them fun.

    Recently I built a 27.5 rear wheel and shod it with a 2.6 NN. The static results are about .25" decrease in BB height and 0.5deg slacker HA. I adjusted my saddle angle, but frankly, didn't really have to. The dynamic results are as expected, more fun in the turns with no measurable differences elsewhere. I suppose if I had a power meter I would see a slight down tick in rolling efficiency on pavement, but I'd also have to compare with a 29" NN to make a fair comp.

    Anyway, fun times are continuing to be had on this bike.

    One more thing, the raw frame cleans up quite nicely with a bit steel wool. I'd say it's a one beer, zero f-bombs kind of job to get decent results. No power tools needed.

    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-riot-275-drive-side.jpg

  9. #5909
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    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS

    Canfields contact us email link isnt working for me so figured Id ask here. Im 510.5 with a 31 inseam and would love to purchase one of the clearance frames but not sure if a medium would be too small for me. Currently on a large Yelli. Bike before that was an 18.5 Fuel Ex that fit great. Thanks!


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  10. #5910
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skeeter97 View Post
    Canfields contact us email link isnt working for me so figured Id ask here. Im 510.5 with a 31 inseam and would love to purchase one of the clearance frames but not sure if a medium would be too small for me. Currently on a large Yelli. Bike before that was an 18.5 Fuel Ex that fit great. Thanks!


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    Get the large. Im 58 and large fits me perfect. A buddy has a medium hes a touch shorter then me and its snug


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  11. #5911
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raleighguy29 View Post
    Get the large. Im 58 and large fits me perfect. A buddy has a medium hes a touch shorter then me and its snug


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    Thats what I was afraid of but figured Id ask anyways. They dont have any larges left unfortunately, suppose Ill keep looking! Thanks for the reply


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  12. #5912
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    My 2016 large full build is for sale. PM for build options I have a few different sets of wheels and bars and brakes from alloy to carbon that can change the price.

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  13. #5913
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raleighguy29 View Post
    Get the large. Im 58 and large fits me perfect. A buddy has a medium hes a touch shorter then me and its snug


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    Agreed. Im 58 with a 31 inseam and I really wish I went with the Large over the Medium. The Medium is snug, and to be honest the longer wheelbase on the Large would have worked much better for me. Regardless, still love the bike.

  14. #5914
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpolism View Post
    Agreed. Im 58 with a 31 inseam and I really wish I went with the Large over the Medium. The Medium is snug, and to be honest the longer wheelbase on the Large would have worked much better for me. Regardless, still love the bike.
    I waited till I had a chance to throw a leg over one and Im glad I did or I would have got a medium and been very unhappy ☹️


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  15. #5915
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    Thanks for the info on sizing guys, glad I asked before buying a medium. Id love to wait on a carbon Riot but Im currently bikeless so I may go back towards the Yeti SB5.5 again.


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  16. #5916
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    Quote Originally Posted by abeck View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    What a difference those deeper rims make in appearance(Flow Mk3 on my end).
    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-2018-02-03_11.45.17.jpg

  17. #5917
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    My Riot with deep carbon rims...Ive been asked if its a 650b bike


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  18. #5918
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    One more wheel to build, get a chain, trim the steer tube, fine tune and then hurry up and wait for the snow to melt. Thinking of swapping the stem for a black one and toying around with the idea of getting metallic silver decals for the fork.

    April/May feels like an eternity away...

    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-p5pb15612977.jpg

  19. #5919
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    I have one problem every 1 or 2 rides one bolt in the down link unscrew!
    Can I use little locktite blue not the red or I will damage the frame or the link or the bearing!

  20. #5920
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darksoul View Post
    I have one problem every 1 or 2 rides one bolt in the down link unscrew!
    Can I use little locktite blue not the red or I will damage the frame or the link or the bearing!
    I don't think you damage anything with the application, but you'll make it harder to remove later. If you do make sure to use in work hex tools.

    My lower link did the same thing I took it out, put s decent coating of grease (I used M2000 calcium grease on everything but suspension internals) and have no problems.

  21. #5921
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darksoul View Post
    I have one problem every 1 or 2 rides one bolt in the down link unscrew!
    Can I use little locktite blue not the red or I will damage the frame or the link or the bearing!
    Dont use red

    Id call Canfield and ask... they actually pick up the phone!


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  22. #5922
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    Quote Originally Posted by abeck View Post
    Digging that new Aggressor, will have to try it sooner rather than later, thanks for sharing.

    I've been meaning to post this since it's appropriately nerdy and pretty rad to boot.

    Start off, I'm a huge fan of the transformer-like qualities of my now nearly two year old riot. I rotate three shocks including a Jade, CCDBa and short stroke Fox RP23 all of which give the bike a slightly different personality, all them fun.

    Recently I built a 27.5 rear wheel and shod it with a 2.6 NN. The static results are about .25" decrease in BB height and 0.5deg slacker HA. I adjusted my saddle angle, but frankly, didn't really have to. The dynamic results are as expected, more fun in the turns with no measurable differences elsewhere. I suppose if I had a power meter I would see a slight down tick in rolling efficiency on pavement, but I'd also have to compare with a 29" NN to make a fair comp.

    Anyway, fun times are continuing to be had on this bike.

    One more thing, the raw frame cleans up quite nicely with a bit steel wool. I'd say it's a one beer, zero f-bombs kind of job to get decent results. No power tools needed.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The mixed wheel size idea has always intrigued me. Being a short guy who loves the 9er roll over.

  23. #5923
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    I don't think you damage anything with the application, but you'll make it harder to remove later. If you do make sure to use in work hex tools.

    My lower link did the same thing I took it out, put s decent coating of grease (I used M2000 calcium grease on everything but suspension internals) and have no problems.
    good advice thanks a lot!

  24. #5924
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    in the chain guide what type bolts I can use?
    I have chain guide for the BB but I want to patent to use it with bolts!

  25. #5925
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    New Riot build

    I am new to Canfield and I am kind of surpriced to see quite a few new builds with the Riot/Toir frames. I also see many that have moved on to other bikes. Makes me wonder how the geometry, suspension and tech holds up in 2018.

    Anyway, I just finished my build. Got a second hand frame/fork in super condition - shock/fork Avalanche tuned. Rest of the build is composed of new parts- non carbon.

    I am pretty stoked about my new ride, but it will be a while before I really get to shred and know for sure I did a good decision...
    This winter is a though one!2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-image-uploaded-ios-1-.jpg2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-image-uploaded-ios-2-.jpg2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-image-uploaded-ios-4-.jpg

  26. #5926
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    Personally, I'm not buying but I'm always shopping...

    The Riot is still seriously competitive 3 years later. Some bikes are a little slacker, some a little longer reach and there are a whole lot more players in the mid travel ripper segment.

    All of them have longer rear ends, sometimes much longer rear ends, which is sometimes touted as a selling point... I like my short rear end, really a defining characteristic of the Riot for me.

    Some of those bikes also more freely 27.5+ compatible... kind of cool, kind of trendy, probably sub-optimizes the bike overall.

    The only thing the bike is 'really' missing is Boost. I'm torn if I'd like to see the new one go boost or give it the finger and go straight to super boost...

    The one thing the bike actually needs is a one piece upper link.

  27. #5927
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    I need some information. I start to build my Riot. I would like to ask about facint the IS brake mount. Is it facing from the factory?

  28. #5928
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    Quote Originally Posted by q232 View Post
    I need some information. I start to build my Riot. I would like to ask about facint the IS brake mount. Is it facing from the factory?
    I've built two with no issues on any component interfaces - first head tube seemed tight, but not a problem. Brake mounts have always been functionally perfect.

  29. #5929
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    Quote Originally Posted by q232 View Post
    I need some information. I start to build my Riot. I would like to ask about facint the IS brake mount. Is it facing from the factory?
    No problem building my Riot last month.

    Brake mount is perfect.

  30. #5930
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ameiza View Post
    I am new to Canfield and I am kind of surpriced to see quite a few new builds with the Riot/Toir frames. I also see many that have moved on to other bikes. Makes me wonder how the geometry, suspension and tech holds up in 2018.

    Anyway, I just finished my build. Got a second hand frame/fork in super condition - shock/fork Avalanche tuned. Rest of the build is composed of new parts- non carbon.

    I am pretty stoked about my new ride, but it will be a while before I really get to shred and know for sure I did a good decision...
    This winter is a though one!Click image for larger version. 

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    FIRST the black and gold is awesome. The Riot is a great trail bike and as mentioned holds its own in the mid travel category. I have an Avalanche suspension as well, and can tell you it will keep up with or do better than a lot of 160mm 27.5 bikes with the Avy stuff.

    Some of us want a second bike to go with the Riot, or an updated model, that takes over where the Riot comes up short.
    So you've got a great bike that's new to you. I'd ride it and not worry too much. Most the people who are happy with the bike are too busy riding it to complain.

  31. #5931
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    46mm vs. 51mm offset

    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    I know what you mean about this feeling, I was also not in love with the bike at high speed at first. I put on a 46mm offset fork instead of a 51mm and it was night and day! the twitchy feeling, and the where in this bike do I ride it to get it to stop feeling sketchy went away. Now it feels much more like a well composed DH sled. I do long for more travel, but the fork offset change really helped the bike at high speeds a ton.
    Getting ready to buy a fork for my Riot build and leaning towards a 46mm offset. I know the Bros designed the bike around 51mm but I like the idea of a more stable ride. Looking through the thread there are few that have 46mm offset and seem to like it. Anyone with a solid vote (and experience) one way or another? Any factors that should be considered when deciding?

    Thanks!

  32. #5932
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    I wrote the bike with both offsets.
    First I had a Pike 140 RTC3 with 46mm. Now I have a Lyrik 140 RTC3 with 51mm.
    It was a good decision to change to the Lyrik, but I am not sure if it is based on the offset.
    But if you buy a new fork I always would chose a 51mm offset. There are no stability disadvantages because of the longer offset.

  33. #5933
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    How would going to 46 offset make it more stable?

  34. #5934
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    Quote Originally Posted by mayha View Post
    How would going to 46 offset make it more stable?
    I agree. I'm not understanding how going from 51 to 46 makes it more stable. If anything, that shortens the wheelbase which is already the main issue with stability at speed.

  35. #5935
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    Less offset increases trail, which slows down the steering, providing a more stable feel. Agreed it does shorten the wheelbase, so there are definitely a lot of factors in balance.

    https://www.pinkbike.com/news/To-the...rk-Offset.html

    https://www.bikeradar.com/us/mtb/gea...eriment-45343/

  36. #5936
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    ok.....



    *****What is trail?

    The distance that the center of the tire's contact patch falls behind the imaginary point that the steering axis*(center of the fork's head tube)*passes through the ground. This is what causes the bike's front wheel to self-straighten when it is moving forward. More trail firms up the steering and adds straight-line stability. Less lightens the steering pressure at the handlebar and gives the bike a more nimble feel. Too far in either direction makes the bike difficult to control.****

  37. #5937
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    The reduced fork offset will bring in the front wheel closer to the rider, allowing for easier weighting of the front wheel when climbing or cornering. I think this is an idea better suited for super slack 29ers, to decrease the feeling the front wheel is hanging out so far in front of you. I think the Transition Sentinel is designed around the shorter offset. But the Riot is not a really slack bike, so I don't know how the shorter offset would feel. Ultimately, it probably comes down to a personal choice, and you'd have to try both to see how it feels.

  38. #5938
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    The 51 offset was done when the HTAs we're 71 with so much weight on the front tire and 29er tires have a long contact patch. The bikes were reluctant to turn. With HTAs in the 60s, the higher offsets can cause overstear.

  39. #5939
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    The 51 offset was done when the HTAs we're 71 with so much weight on the front tire and 29er tires have a long contact patch. The bikes were reluctant to turn. With HTAs in the 60s, the higher offsets can cause overstear.
    Very true, but on the flip side, you don't want a sluggish steering bike either. There is a balance, and I think it's up to the individual riding the bike. So far, the Riot with the standard 51mm has felt just right to me..

  40. #5940
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Gigi View Post
    Very true, but on the flip side, you don't want a sluggish steering bike either. There is a balance, and I think it's up to the individual riding the bike. So far, the Riot with the standard 51mm has felt just right to me..
    I agree. I'm on size small and ride with 51 on my home trails. Since they aren't that fast because they're very twisty with lots of trees. For the trails that push the Riots abillity In speed and chunk, I'll be getting another bike and depending on how it feels, ill decide on offset.

  41. #5941
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    I agree. I'm on size small and ride with 51 on my home trails. Since they aren't that fast because they're very twisty with lots of trees. For the trails that push the Riots abillity In speed and chunk, I'll be getting another bike and depending on how it feels, ill decide on offset.
    If only I had the financial float to experiment with both. With my last 2 bikes I had two forks for each, both with different offsets and in both instances, the shorter one was far better. That being said, is hard to argue with the designers intent; I think I'll start with 51 and see how it goes. If I switch it up I'll report back. Maybe this will motivate me to nerd out and do some timed runs.

  42. #5942
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    I can't imagine the 46 vs 51 offset plays a bigger role with speed confidence than say a coil vs air rear shock. A 51 offset fork paired with a 11.6 or other coil has to feel more composed at speed than a 46 degree offset with air shock rear. Right?

  43. #5943
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    Quote Originally Posted by cpolism View Post
    I can't imagine the 46 vs 51 offset plays a bigger role with speed confidence than say a coil vs air rear shock. A 51 offset fork paired with a 11.6 or other coil has to feel more composed at speed than a 46 degree offset with air shock rear. Right?
    It's mostly a feeling thing, like the starring feel between a 35mm stem and a 50/60mm stem. There is a tad more traction since the wheel is closer and has more weight in the center, but it can cause more of a tuck in feeling at loss of traction. So if you don't have a slack HTA it might feel/act worse.

    I haven't experimented with it on the Riot yet, but on a bike with 68 it tucked too much.

  44. #5944
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    It's mostly a feeling thing, like the starring feel between a 35mm stem and a 50/60mm stem. There is a tad more traction since the wheel is closer and has more weight in the center, but it can cause more of a tuck in feeling at loss of traction. So if you don't have a slack HTA it might feel/act worse.

    I haven't experimented with it on the Riot yet, but on a bike with 68 it tucked too much.
    It defiantly won't take the place of a poor acting suspention.

  45. #5945
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ameiza View Post
    I am new to Canfield and I am kind of surpriced to see quite a few new builds with the Riot/Toir frames. I also see many that have moved on to other bikes. Makes me wonder how the geometry, suspension and tech holds up in 2018.

    Anyway, I just finished my build. Got a second hand frame/fork in super condition - shock/fork Avalanche tuned. Rest of the build is composed of new parts- non carbon.

    I am pretty stoked about my new ride, but it will be a while before I really get to shred and know for sure I did a good decision...
    This winter is a though one!Click image for larger version. 

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    This post is killing me - I really miss my black bike. When I killed it, I got a replacement in raw...just not the same. I had more gold on mine...next mountain ripper is going to be black for sure, but probably another couple seasons on the raw Riot, barring any other unforseen disasters...

  46. #5946
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glenngineer View Post
    This post is killing me - I really miss my black bike. When I killed it, I got a replacement in raw...just not the same. I had more gold on mine...next mountain ripper is going to be black for sure, but probably another couple seasons on the raw Riot, barring any other unforseen disasters...
    I killed my black one also. But I was wanting a raw one anyway so


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  47. #5947
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    Anyone know what the shortest steerer tube I could get away with on a small is? I can afford the frame, not so much a new fork

  48. #5948
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Anyone know what the shortest steerer tube I could get away with on a small is? I can afford the frame, not so much a new fork
    PM me in the Morning EST my (small riot) is on the work stand at work.

  49. #5949
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Anyone know what the shortest steerer tube I could get away with on a small is? I can afford the frame, not so much a new fork
    Canfield says the head tube is 105mm; figure 20mm for the headset and 40 for the stem. So around 165.

  50. #5950
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    Thanks to Cerberus75 I've come to the conclusion that I'm 1cm short, even with a ZS bottom cup. Oh well.

  51. #5951
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Thanks to Cerberus75 I've come to the conclusion that I'm 1cm short, even with a ZS bottom cup. Oh well.
    Depending on the fork and company, you might be able to get a new tube pressed in, or a crown and steering tube only much cheaper than a new fork.

  52. #5952
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    Naw 1cm is nothing it would be fine.

  53. #5953
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Anyone know what the shortest steerer tube I could get away with on a small is? I can afford the frame, not so much a new fork
    Quote Originally Posted by Joules View Post
    Canfield says the head tube is 105mm; figure 20mm for the headset and 40 for the stem. So around 165.
    Vegard, you could look at the CC Slamset top or a Ragley Stubbing stem. Combined they offer a 16mm reduction in stack height.

  54. #5954
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    Forgive me if this question has been answered somewhere, but I'm toying with the idea of picking up another Riot/Toir frame and continuing to experiment with a number of things. I suppose my continued interest in experimentation was stoked by some of the Geometron ideas... I'm curious what the results might be if an 1.5-2.0 angleset was used to reduce the head angle, then a reduced offset fork was used in conjunction. Maybe I'm thinking in too simple of terms, but thought that might be a nice combo, especially if I'm running a size up to broaden the wheelbase?

    Also, do we know if running an angleset would void a warranty? The proposed angleset/fork offset combo would be running with 125ish mm of rear travel and 130 up front, which would technically ease a little force exerted on the head tube vs a 140 or 150mm fork I would think.

  55. #5955
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    Sorry, no answer on your questions, but: I was thinking about something like this a few months ago, similar reasons: interest in geometron + riot close out sale. One thing that held me back was the seat tube length when sizing up, I don't think that would've worked for me. But if you're willing to cut it....

  56. #5956
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    Quote Originally Posted by madsry View Post
    Forgive me if this question has been answered somewhere, but I'm toying with the idea of picking up another Riot/Toir frame and continuing to experiment with a number of things. I suppose my continued interest in experimentation was stoked by some of the Geometron ideas... I'm curious what the results might be if an 1.5-2.0 angleset was used to reduce the head angle, then a reduced offset fork was used in conjunction. Maybe I'm thinking in too simple of terms, but thought that might be a nice combo, especially if I'm running a size up to broaden the wheelbase?

    Also, do we know if running an angleset would void a warranty? The proposed angleset/fork offset combo would be running with 125ish mm of rear travel and 130 up front, which would technically ease a little force exerted on the head tube vs a 140 or 150mm fork I would think.
    130mm fork will bring the HTA to 67 drop the BB almost 5mm an slacken the STA even more. If you slack the HTA more the STA will get even more steep. Not something of want on a shorter travel bike.

  57. #5957
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    Yeah, aside from the STA issue, your proposed combo of reducing HTA, shorter fork, and reduced offset would make for a much shortened wheelbase. I don't know how to calculate how much shorter, but the bike would be more nervous at high speeds for sure.

  58. #5958
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    You guys both miss the part about his angleset? I imagine running 2 degrees slacker would offset all that wheelbase and seat tube angle part. BB height will still be within acceptable height I think also.

  59. #5959
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    I think that seeing as youre looking to run a shorter stoke might as well run a 190x50 rear shock. Using the shorter rear shock would also drop the rear. This would help to keep the angles in check. I actually prefer the lower BB height when running B+ tires (but like the 29r roll over and speed). It would be very similar height. With the reduced travel the sag value would be less also having less effect on BB height when sagged.

  60. #5960
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    Quote Originally Posted by aenema View Post
    You guys both miss the part about his angleset? I imagine running 2 degrees slacker would offset all that wheelbase and seat tube angle part. BB height will still be within acceptable height I think also.
    A headset that slakens the HTA and travel stays the same, or get lower will stepen the STA. Since most people ride shorter travel on peddly rolling terrain 77 isn't the best. More than that won't be fun.

  61. #5961
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    Hey guys, so I think I could have laid out the projected changes a little better. Here's an attempt to concisely lay out the project idea:

    - Upsize from a L to an XL (because I like longer bikes and think I might be OK with the taller seat tube and if not, would entertain cutting it)

    - Run and angleset of some kind to reduce hta 1.5-2 degrees (recommendations on which angleset to look at would be welcomed and whether I'm risking damage or voiding warranty by doing this, likely with a 130mm fork which should reduce load on the head tube compared to a 140 or 150 fork)

    - Possibly employ a reduced offset fork (46)

    - Almost certainly going with a 27.5 rear and 29 front. May play with a 2.6ish 27.5" rear and a relatively more aggressive tread 2.3-2.5 29" up front.

    - Running a rear shock with stock eye to eye, but a shorter stroke, both to reduce travel and accommodate a 27.5 rear. I believe this combo would keep sagged BB height in a really safe range while still lowering suspended ride height.

    I think those are the main things.


    Just for fun, here is a picture of my last Riot, which I didn't get to ride with this setup before I was forced to sell:

    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-riot-right.jpg

  62. #5962
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    The smaller rear wheel will put the STA back to a reasonable place. If my math is correct you'll get 67 HTA and 13" BB with the mixed wheel size.

  63. #5963
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    After a quick ride today, I think I need to swap out the 35mm stem for a 50mm. Also, when my shop built my front wheel, they installed the tire backwards. Still needs some minor tweaking (fine-tuning the shifting and suspension set up and needs a brake bleed), but I actually rode her around a bit and I'm beyond stoked for the this summer.

    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-p4pb15725547.jpg

  64. #5964
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    Sorry for some reason I thought you were increasing the hta with the angleset. You got some crazy Franken-geometry going on!

  65. #5965
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    Quote Originally Posted by madsry View Post
    Forgive me if this question has been answered somewhere, but I'm toying with the idea of picking up another Riot/Toir frame and continuing to experiment with a number of things. I suppose my continued interest in experimentation was stoked by some of the Geometron ideas... I'm curious what the results might be if an 1.5-2.0 angleset was used to reduce the head angle, then a reduced offset fork was used in conjunction. Maybe I'm thinking in too simple of terms, but thought that might be a nice combo, especially if I'm running a size up to broaden the wheelbase?

    Also, do we know if running an angleset would void a warranty? The proposed angleset/fork offset combo would be running with 125ish mm of rear travel and 130 up front, which would technically ease a little force exerted on the head tube vs a 140 or 150mm fork I would think.
    Buy the Riot, hang the idea of mucking with the geo, get off the forums, and just ride the damn thing! I had an angleset, and then i realized that no amount of messing around with shit was going to make me go faster, i just had to let go of the brakes and be willing to endure some low-side slide outs. Tires can do more than most will are willing to try.

  66. #5966
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    Going to be listing my Riot soon, but PM if anyone is looking for a size L. Could be a complete build or frame with some parts depending on needs.

    Frames or complete is listed on pinkbike now. Will list here as soon as a I get a couple minutes.
    Last edited by TX_CLG; 03-30-2018 at 08:02 PM.

  67. #5967
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    Installed a 1 degree Works Components angle headset and liking it so far. It took out some playfulness and added a little wheel flop on slow steep climbing that I will have to get use too, but made it noticeably more stable/less twitchy at speed.

    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-img_20180407_055604477.jpg

  68. #5968
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    I am lookking mudguard pattern for real wheel. I want protect links form mud and rocks.
    Has anyone it?
    Thanks

  69. #5969
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    I have done it. I cannot remember which thread I got the template from.

    You can make one yourself very easily with a flimsy plastic binder. It does not need to wrap on the side either if you dont want it to. That will complicate the shape and form you want. If you just make a tapered rectangle that will fit down the middle you can secure it to the X brace and it should good to go.

  70. #5970
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    Quote Originally Posted by q232 View Post
    I am lookking mudguard pattern for real wheel. I want protect links form mud and rocks.
    Has anyone it?
    Thanks
    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-b302f41b-d8a2-4f05-b4ac-4871880aa74c.jpg

    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-af4e30aa-ca3e-49b4-b2c9-6c831dc3d3c0.jpg

    I just cut up one of those AssSavers that clip to the seat. Had one laying around. Trim to fit with scissors and cut some square holes for zip ties. With B+ tires it can be a bit loose. With 29s I need to zip the top and bottom better so it doesnt catch the tire. Doesnt keep everything out but helps a lot nonetheless.

    Damn iPhone keeps rotating my pictures.
    2017 Canfield Riot

  71. #5971
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    Is anyone running an MRP Ribbon @ 150mm on their Riot. I know the Bros approved the Stage at 150mm but I haven't seen anything posted about the Ribbon. The Stage is listed as 558mm A2C for 150mm and the Ribbon is 562mm. Will that 4mm make any difference handling wise or void the warranty?

  72. #5972
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    I emailed the Bros with above Q about the Ribbon and Sean replied right away with "yes sir." So, 150 Ribbon coil it is. Can't wait to get my Riot built up as the season is now full on in the PNW.

  73. #5973
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    Quote Originally Posted by willysurf View Post
    I emailed the Bros with above Q about the Ribbon and Sean replied right away with "yes sir." So, 150 Ribbon coil it is. Can't wait to get my Riot built up as the season is now full on in the PNW.
    I'm surprised, actually. The Stage has a really low A2C that essentially makes a 150mm Stage the same as a 140mm Pike. The same is not true of the Ribbon.

  74. #5974
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    So thinking of picking up a Riot and had a quick question. Ive read about some people having issues with high speed going through the rough stuff. Hows the bike handle on low to moderate speed technical, like long rock gardens that you have to pick your way through? Weve got a lot of those around here where you cant quite get up to speed due to turns or long rocky climbs.

  75. #5975
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    Quote Originally Posted by fontarin View Post
    So thinking of picking up a Riot and had a quick question. Ive read about some people having issues with high speed going through the rough stuff. Hows the bike handle on low to moderate speed technical, like long rock gardens that you have to pick your way through? Weve got a lot of those around here where you cant quite get up to speed due to turns or long rocky climbs.
    check my channel and see that bike in rocky trails with steep turns and speed in rocks!!
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLG..._as=subscriber

  76. #5976
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    Quote Originally Posted by fontarin View Post
    So thinking of picking up a Riot and had a quick question. Ive read about some people having issues with high speed going through the rough stuff. Hows the bike handle on low to moderate speed technical, like long rock gardens that you have to pick your way through? Weve got a lot of those around here where you cant quite get up to speed due to turns or long rocky climbs.
    In my opinion, the Riot is really good for those conditions.
    Seat angle and the suspension's kinematics are great for responsiveness when you have to pedal a few strokes to get through a technical section with just the right amount of speed

  77. #5977
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    Riot is the best technical climber Ive ridden. Balance is very good too, 29 wheels giving the Riot the edge. It will climb anything thats possible, with very active suspension. I have a Jade coil on mine and I think that takes care of any high speed stability issues.

  78. #5978
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    Like everyone has said the Riot is great at slow tech and climbing. The high speed stuff is fine if you have a shock that can handle it.

  79. #5979
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    Thanks guys! One more question - Jade or Topaz? Ive never used a coil shock before. Is there much performance difference between the two?

  80. #5980
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    IMHO coil is best (I'm running front and rear) the closer the rear wheel is to you the more stiction of an air spring is felt. If you ride a lot of slow teck the coil helps give a no hang up feel.

  81. #5981
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    I have both a Jade and a Topaz for my Riot and have settled on the air shock. I don't think the suspension is quite progressive enough for the coil when pushing it and honestly, that DVO stuff works just so well in air format that I don't really think it gives up much anywhere else. I used to swap a lot based on the ride but now the coil just sits in its case.

  82. #5982
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    I keep getting notifications from this post. I will turn it off now. However since I am here I will tell you guys quick story.

    So my friends have MTB shop In Ireland. They were selling Canfield bikes and riding them hard. Until one of them got Knolly bike. Long story short. They all ride Knolly bikes now. Like 6 of them. Whole shop team. And not because they have some special deal. Just because bikes are simply better. At least for Ireland. We are talking about Warden Frame here. I rode both and Knolly was just amazing, rear is something else.

    So there you go. Do with this info whatever you want.

    I am out form this forum so no more reply form me.

    Have fun!

  83. #5983
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikelo303 View Post
    I keep getting notifications from this post. I will turn it off now. However since I am here I will tell you guys quick story.

    So my friends have MTB shop In Ireland. They were selling Canfield bikes and riding them hard. Until one of them got Knolly bike. Long story short. They all ride Knolly bikes now. Like 6 of them. Whole shop team. And not because they have some special deal. Just because bikes are simply better. At least for Ireland. We are talking about Warden Frame here. I rode both and Knolly was just amazing, rear is something else.

    So there you go. Do with this info whatever you want.

    I am out form this forum so no more reply form me.

    Have fun!
    Not that you'll see this but yes Knolly make great bikes. The Canfield bikes peddle better, and Knolly have a bit more traction.

  84. #5984
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikelo303 View Post
    I keep getting notifications from this post. I will turn it off now. However since I am here I will tell you guys quick story.

    So my friends have MTB shop In Ireland. They were selling Canfield bikes and riding them hard. Until one of them got Knolly bike. Long story short. They all ride Knolly bikes now. Like 6 of them. Whole shop team. And not because they have some special deal. Just because bikes are simply better. At least for Ireland. We are talking about Warden Frame here. I rode both and Knolly was just amazing, rear is something else.

    So there you go. Do with this info whatever you want.

    I am out form this forum so no more reply form me.

    Have fun!
    I have both, a carbon warden with a coil and a riot with a coil. I like them both a ton. Just wish I had more time to ride them both.

  85. #5985
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    Hey guys, letting my Riot go if anyone is interested. https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2382543/

    $1300 with frame, DVO Diamond, and Topaz. Cheers.

  86. #5986
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    Quote Originally Posted by Techspec360 View Post
    Hey guys, letting my Riot go if anyone is interested. https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/2382543/

    $1300 with frame, DVO Diamond, and Topaz. Cheers.
    Damn, wish you had posted that about 8 hours earlier. Just ordered one last night!

  87. #5987
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    Quote Originally Posted by fontarin View Post
    Damn, wish you had posted that about 8 hours earlier. Just ordered one last night!
    Easy, just cancel the order.

  88. #5988
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    Hi all,

    I'm thinking about getting a Riot, and was just wondering what some builds weigh out to. Not trying for anything featherlight, just wondering if under 30lb is feasible with a decent spec.

    Thanks.

  89. #5989
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    Quote Originally Posted by BTTR View Post
    Easy, just cancel the order.

  90. #5990
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    I have an XL with a really nice build but not compromising capability and its just under 31lbs. Carbon wheels, Eagle X01 drivetrain, guide brakes with 200/180, MRP ribbon air fork, DVO air rear shock, 9point8 175 dropper post, e13 front tire and aggressor rear tubelss, carbon Renthal bar, Canfield flat pedals.

  91. #5991
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post
    Hi all,

    I'm thinking about getting a Riot, and was just wondering what some builds weigh out to. Not trying for anything featherlight, just wondering if under 30lb is feasible with a decent spec.

    Thanks.
    I'm 32lbs with coils and Avalanche on both ends, yari fork chassis. Only carbon is bar and my wheels and they have cushcore inserts.

    But with a pike or 34 fork and a lot of carbon you can get under 30 probably 28lbs. The new pike is almost 2lbs lighter than what my fork weighs. A topaz or monarch is almost a lb lighter than my shock.

  92. #5992
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    Ive got a medium Riot with a 34 up front, CCDBairCS out back, carbon bars, GX build with hope Crankset (heavy), hope brakes, and upgraded to carbon (NOBL) wheels. Right now im sitting at 30.4lbs. Im in the process of upgrading to X01 and RF Next R carbon crankset, either going Pike or MRP Ribbon up front with the Push 11.6 in the back. Im estimating itll still be right around 30.5 or so...which im perfectly happy with.

  93. #5993
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    Sounds good, it looks like I should be able to get it down to 30lb or under on a large frame. My drivetrain and wheels should be pretty light (mix of X01/XX1 11spd and Ibis 942 carbon), but the tires and suspension are definitely going to be on the heavier side (either an older DBIL or a RS Vivid coil, Continental Der Kaiser 2.4s, and DVO Diamond).

  94. #5994
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    I'm running a Fox 36, dbinline coil, xt 1x11, aluminum wheelset just under 2k grams, Der Baron/Der Kaiser tires and I'm well into the 34# range. I think with carbon hoops and a less burly fork you might get close to 30, but below 30 might be a stretch with those tires.

    To be honest though I value durabity/reliability as a heavier rider and the extra couple of bike pounds are worth it to me. I love riding my bike as much as the sub-30# carbon wunderbikes I've demoed.
    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post
    Sounds good, it looks like I should be able to get it down to 30lb or under on a large frame. My drivetrain and wheels should be pretty light (mix of X01/XX1 11spd and Ibis 942 carbon), but the tires and suspension are definitely going to be on the heavier side (either an older DBIL or a RS Vivid coil, Continental Der Kaiser 2.4s, and DVO Diamond).
    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  95. #5995
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    Thanks for sharing. It looks like it might be more difficult to get 30lb or under then I thought. Strange, as someone else mentioned that they are running coils front and rear with a 2000g wheelset and entirely alloy drivetrain and still coming in at 32lb. At 1000g per tire, the Der Kaisers actually seem to be lighter or the about the same compared to a Maxxis DHF/DHR, Minion, or Aggressor, so I wouldn't expect them to be the cause of too much additional weight. Not exactly sure what to expect for the final weight of the build.

    I know it's a bit of a longshot, but does anyone know of a way for someone in the DC area to throw a leg over a Riot, even if it's only for a parking lot ride? Just want to be absolutely sure that I like the bike. Even if I can't try before buying, I'll probably still end up going ahead anyways, as the geo and suspension design look fantastic.

  96. #5996
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    That's me. I should have mention I'm on a small frame. My cranks are xtr so not much heavier than carbon. And cassette is a Garburk.

  97. #5997
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    Ah, the small frame and lighter weight drivetrain definitely make a difference. Getting a large down to 30lb is definitely not going to be easy. Though in the end, it's really more of a want than a necessity.

  98. #5998
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    I don't think most people would feel a lb frame difference. That's a tool and tube strap or water bottle. I do feel the difference in wheel and tire weight.

  99. #5999
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    I forgot to mention mine is a large frame. I think it's possible to get a build down to 30#, it just depends on how much money you are willing to spend. Unfortunately I'm in AZ so there's no way I can get you a ride on mine. I bought mine without having seen a Riot IRL before and it hasn't disappointed me.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  100. #6000
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    Sounds good, I'm going to be using parts from my current build, so hopefully they will be light enough. Even if I'm over 30lb it's not a huge issue, sub-30lb is more a want than a need. I appreciate the offer for a test ride; It's also good to know that you are happy with your Riot even though it was a blind purchase. I'm sure that regardless if I ride a Riot before getting one I'll be happy with it. It looks like a great bike.

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