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  1. #51
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    2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Also, anyone know how big of a tire you can fit in the rear??


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  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkidd_39 View Post
    Ahh. I was gonna say if buy it as I'm going all thomson on my N9. What big travel bike??


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    Knolly Chilcotin.

    I'm running 2.2's with wide Derby rims and I have plenty of room. The dropouts are almost all the way forward and I feel confident I could fit a 2.4 or 2.5 depending on brand.
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  3. #53
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    I ran a 2.2 Purgatory on Flow EX and couldn't get the sliders all the way forward w/o rubbing the FD. Now that I am 1x10 I am sure I could get it all the way forward.

    Might try a NN 2.25 in the back soon to see how I like it.

  4. #54
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    "Also, anyone know how big of a tire you can fit in the rear??"

    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    I ran a 2.2 Purgatory on Flow EX and couldn't get the sliders all the way forward w/o rubbing the FD. Now that I am 1x10 I am sure I could get it all the way forward.

    Might try a NN 2.25 in the back soon to see how I like it.
    I run a either a Hans Dampf 2.35 or a Racing Ralph 2.35 in the back of my '13 Nimble 9 depending on terrain. The big HD fits fine with my 1x10 drivetrain.

    I'm 5'11 and squeezed onto a medium frame. I love how playful the bike is but wanted the back end a touch longer on the steep descents so I have the sliders in the middle of their range. The chainstays are still shorter than my last bike, the Yelli Screamy. Without a FD it looks like one could run the sliders all the way forward, even with a big tire.
    Work expands to fit the time allotted...

  5. #55
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    So I have a Santa Cruz Tallboy LTC as my main bike now. I sold my Yelli and I miss it so I'm going to get another yelli or the new N9 as a second bike. I can't decide on which one lol
    2014 Santa Cruz Tallboy LTc
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  6. #56
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    So I've had my Nimble for a few weeks now and have been enjoying it! So much that I talked the wife into one! We weren't able to afford new, so we found a good deal on a frame and fork. Got it built up today and she's loving it so far. It's not a 2014 model, but it will do!

    Hers is the blue. The wheels on the bike right now are only temporary.
    2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-image.jpg2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-image.jpg
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  7. #57
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    Lucky wife.

    The front brake cable is looking at little crazy though.

  8. #58
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    Anybody running a front der?
    I have yet to see a picture of one.

  9. #59
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    reverse question: when not running a FM, is it best to wind the screw in without the blanking plate (it looks a bit odd and may get knocked off), or just leave the hole.

  10. #60
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    Both brake sets are only temporary!
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  11. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghetto View Post
    reverse question: when not running a FM, is it best to wind the screw in without the blanking plate (it looks a bit odd and may get knocked off), or just leave the hole.
    Just get a small SS set screw to put in place of the original, I used a M6x10mm IIRC. I just took the original into my hardware store to match up the size and thread pitch, put a little dab of Loctite and it won't go anywhere.

  12. #62
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    (ignore, error post)

  13. #63
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    2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-photo.jpg

    Long time lurker here! While I have been mountain biking for a long long time I have never had a bike that has me so excited I have to talk about it! My 2014 Nimble 9 has been built for less than a week now and I've ridden it every day so far. I love this bike!!!!

    All of the praise that has been heaped on the Canfield Bros is well deserving.

    BTW, my wife can't get enough of her purple Yelli Screamy

  14. #64
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    good pic - what is it about the N9 you like so much?

  15. #65
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    I don't geek out on the geometry of a bike, I just ride to have a good time.

    Having the rear wheel tucked under my butt is helpful when climbing on a SS. Also, I was worried that a slack front (67ish with a 140mm fork) end would feel really vague or slow turning on level ground but that doesn't seem to be the case. People smarter than me have suggested that the 51mm offset on my fork helps.

    My favorite part about riding this bike is it helps to make up for my lack of skill and I feel like a hero rolling over the slick roots we have around my house. To be fair I'm sure you couldn't lose with any of the current short chain stay slack 29ers.

  16. #66
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    Good job!

    Here we go.

    * medium, Chrome, '14 Nimble 9
    * Reba RLs, 120mm
    * gearing 32:19
    * XT brakes
    * XFusion HiLo dropper
    * Stan's Crests on Hope Pro 2 Evo, front tyre is a Spesh Purgatory Control 2.3, rear is a Nobby Nic 2.25, both tubeless.
    * RaceFace Atlas 785mm flat bar on an On One 35mm stem
    * sliders are as forwards as I can get them without the chain being sloppy, they're maybe 2 or 3 mm shorter than my Yelli at this setting.

    12kg dead (26.45lbs) as built, pedals included.

    The steerer could lose 10mm, all in good time.

    First impression up and down the street is it is definitely more nimble than my Yelli, and the steel ride is noticeable - it's much softer in the back end. (I was fearing it wouldn't be). We're going to get along fine.

    I ride XC and single track here: Surrey Hills |

    The frame originally arrived with a 142x12 Maxle, it didn't seem quite right to me so I queried it with Canfield and Sean got a 135x12 out to the same day. Thanks Sean. (Tho I am a little confused what a 135x12 axle is right for 142x12 frame. Anyway never mind).

    First proper ride tonight.

    2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_20140702_145435.jpg2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_20140702_145458.jpg2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_20140702_145529.jpg2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_20140702_145642.jpg2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_20140702_145700.jpg2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_20140702_145444.jpg2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-img_20140702_145435-effects.jpg

    ps I am not responsible for the colour of the garage door.

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knuderrama View Post
    My favorite part about riding this bike is it helps to make up for my lack of skill and I feel like a hero rolling over the slick roots we have around my house. To be fair I'm sure you couldn't lose with any of the current short chain stay slack 29ers.
    Yeah amen, I find the same on my Yelli. Peeps think because I ride wide bars and short stem on a Yelli I am a hardcore rider but I'm not - really it's a fun, forgiving, do anything set up.

    You've managed to get the sliders slammed too - is that 32:18?

    Am liking your gloss black. Shame we can't meet up for a "black 'n' chrome" ride.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghetto View Post

    You've managed to get the sliders slammed too - is that 32:18?
    It's 32:19 but I'm struggling to make it up some of the steeper pops if I can't get a run at them. I am going to try a 20 tooth cog tonight, I have a few mm of forward adjustment left in the sliders so hopefully it will fit without lengthening the chain.

  19. #69
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    funny, I have the opposite problem, I was under geared tonight so I'm hoping I can swap a half link in for a full link and run 32:18. round here the climbs are either steep or long but rarely both.

    am half wishing I'd bought the black, having seen yours, but I need to put that thought to bed, it's not like it matters in the long run

    the frame rides lighter and faster than the Yelli, I'm happy with it.

  20. #70
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    2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Can you guys keep up with geared bikes on the flowy fast stuff? I'm running 32:16 and am getting left on the downhill stuff. I couldn't imagine 32:20


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  21. #71
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    "Keep up" depends who with of course, but I am as quick or quicker on SS as I am on gears.

    SS is good for flow, you probably notice every time a gearie shifts that they stall a bit. And dumping that choice from my head leaves more time left for enjoying the trail.

    But also for me part of the joy of the SS is leaving that rat race behind. I go the speed I go, and if I spin out then I chill and enjoy the ride.

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghetto View Post
    "Keep up" depends who with of course, but I am as quick or quicker on SS as I am on gears.
    Well said Getto.

    On hilly trails I am faster than a lot of geared riders because I can't grind away in a low gear. That said, where I used to live a popular trail was the remains of a old water ditch used to supply copper mines. The trail was flat with banked corner, I could never keep up with geared bikes.

    Also, the difference between the 19 and 20 tooth cog is small, I don't think it has reduced my top speed much.

    Some bike porn from yesterdays ride:
    2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-photo-1.jpg2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-photo-2.jpg

  23. #73
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    yeah, no backing off from the climbs, often I'm working at my max just to keep moving. again, part of the fun for me.

    I can think of one local descent where the gearies are faster - it's long, near straight and has a shallow gradient so I can spin out while they have a high gear or 2 in reserve. That's an exception though. I've learnt to not care.

  24. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghetto View Post
    The frame originally arrived with a 142x12 Maxle, it didn't seem quite right to me so I queried it with Canfield and Sean got a 135x12 out to the same day. Thanks Sean. (Tho I am a little confused what a 135x12 axle is right for 142x12 frame. Anyway never mind).
    From what I understand, it's the thickness of the dropouts. They are thinner so the maxle needs to be 135 in length. If the dropouts were a little thicker, you would thread your wheel on with a 142x12.

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghetto View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    What rotors are you using? Very cool looking!

  26. #76
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    sure, thanks - so the internal width of 142x12 and 135x12 are the same, and the difference is thickness of the dropout? I think they must be as I am using 142x12 hub adapters. anyway the bike rides good.

    for the record, the end of the 135x12 is flush with the threaded part of the DS slider and winds in fully so the head is flush on the NDS. If anyone has a few mm of axle sticking out on DS, you have the wrong axle.

  27. #77
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    lol if you're going to have rotor burn scares, they may as well be pretty ones

    yeah they stop me fine, and are light.

  28. #78
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    2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Quote Originally Posted by cycljunkie View Post
    What rotors are you using? Very cool looking!

    Those are origin8 ashima rotors. They are fantastic stoppers and light to boot.

    And they leave a sweet scar. I have that same pattern on my right calf


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  29. #79
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    2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9




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  30. #80
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    pic of the year!

  31. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghetto View Post
    "Keep up" depends who with of course, but I am as quick or quicker on SS as I am on gears.

    SS is good for flow, you probably notice every time a gearie shifts that they stall a bit. And dumping that choice from my head leaves more time left for enjoying the trail.
    Funny you mention it. I have a couple Strava segments I have been trying to blow away with my Yelli, which is geared. Set my records on the single speed Nimble 9 and I can't even touch those times with the Yelli. lol

  32. #82
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    me too

    gears make me weak

  33. #83
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    Not New Any More

    2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9-not-new-any-more.jpg

  34. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghetto View Post
    me too

    gears make me weak
    They don't make me weak. They make me lazy.

    "Oh so I don't have to tackle this mile long climb out of saddle in 32:20, I can just spin up it in 30:36?"

  35. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Knuderrama View Post
    Some bike porn from yesterdays ride:
    I had to check your profile after seeing those pics. They really look a lot like the Mendocino Coastline or Fort Bragg area. If that is the place I sure do miss going there.

  36. #86
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    Got my chrome nimble 9 last Thursday, still waiting for a couple components. I also got confused on the rear axle size, I had emailed them saying they had sent the wrong one but got a nice explanation that 135x12 was correct. I'll be running mine 1x10.

  37. #87
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    yup 135x12 is correct.

    pics when it's built please

  38. #88
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    2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Quote Originally Posted by racefit View Post
    Are you referring to the included Maxle?

    I was thinking I got the wrong one too.


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    Correct. You will get a 135x12 thru axle. This will fit correctly and give you 142mm rear spacing.


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  39. #89
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    2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Quote Originally Posted by tomcraw View Post
    Got my chrome nimble 9 last Thursday, still waiting for a couple components. I also got confused on the rear axle size, I had emailed them saying they had sent the wrong one but got a nice explanation that 135x12 was correct. I'll be running mine 1x10.
    Are you referring to the included Maxle?

    I was thinking I got the wrong one too.


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  40. #90
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    yeah you need a 135x12 Maxle. the one in my frame box was a 142x12, Canfield sent me a replacement.

  41. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by racefit View Post
    Are you referring to the included Maxle?

    I was thinking I got the wrong one too.


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    Yes, the 135x12 Maxle is correct. But I think your hub has to be converted for 142x12 spacing. I'll know for sure later this week, at least for stan's ztr hubs.

  42. #92
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    Re: 2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Quote Originally Posted by tomcraw View Post
    Yes, the 135x12 Maxle is correct. But I think your hub has to be converted for 142x12 spacing. I'll know for sure later this week, at least for stan's ztr hubs.
    Hub must be 142x12.

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  43. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycljunkie View Post
    Hub must be 142x12.
    correct, 135x12 Maxle, 142x12 Hub. (For my Hope Pro 2 Evo the adapters are known as 'X12' - they have smooth ends, whereas the 135x12 adapters, which won't work, have serrated ends)

  44. #94
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    Seat post slippage issues

    4 rides, > 150km, in and I'm still getting a lot of seat post slippage problems. I'm running an XFusion HiLo dropper and a Thomson clamp tightened to the max. I've used fibre grip and reset it many times, have resorted to setting it overweight and using the dropper to raise the saddle as the post drops, at least I get 20 mins without having to get off the bike that way.

    Anyone got any suggestions? Different clamp? (There don't seem to be many at 29.8mm).

    Ta.

  45. #95
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    ta, do you know if he's fixed it and what clamp he's using?

  46. #96
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    Re: 2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Quote Originally Posted by ghetto View Post
    4 rides, > 150km, in and I'm still getting a lot of seat post slippage problems. I'm running an XFusion HiLo dropper and a Thomson clamp tightened to the max. I've used fibre grip and reset it many times, have resorted to setting it overweight and using the dropper to raise the saddle as the post drops, at least I get 20 mins without having to get off the bike that way.

    Anyone got any suggestions? Different clamp? (There don't seem to be many at 29.8mm).

    Ta.
    My friend's 2014 N9 also had a loose seat tube. My 2013 N9 is the opposite... Tight like a... Well you know... Can you use tape or something else on the lower part of the post to fill the gap?

    Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S3

  47. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghetto View Post
    ta, do you know if he's fixed it and what clamp he's using?
    Riding with him in Sedona tomorrow. Will check which clamp he uses...

  48. #98
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    2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Had a similar problem with my Yelli. Fancy beer can shim solved my issues.

  49. #99
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    Re: 2014 Canfield Brothers Nimble 9

    Quote Originally Posted by ghetto View Post
    ta, do you know if he's fixed it and what clamp he's using?
    He's using a cheap Diety clamp. I think the beer can shim is your best bet.

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  50. #100
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    How many of you are getting seat post slippage on the 2014 frames? I'm building up a chrome and wondering if it's just with the chrome.

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