Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 33
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ikarus189's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    229

    2013 The One build questions

    Hello all, this will be my first canfield, and while putting the build together, stuff seems so much more complicated than it was in 2008 (my last bike build)...I would really appreciate it if anyone could point out any problems I might have with my build, specifically drivechain issues...thank you in advance! I'm so stoked for this bike to come, May seems like a really long time away...I know everyone is going to say to go microdrive or single up front, but I'm not ready to make that kind of commitment yet...maybe in the future...

    Large the One, CCDB air (I'm 6' even, will use bike for mostly heavy AM, some bike park days.)
    TALAS 180
    Chris King standard mtb BB
    Race Face Atlas crank and rings 10 spd.(24/36/bash) and double/triple MRP guide from canfield.
    XT shifters
    XT front der (triple)
    XT long cage rear der
    XT 1-36 10 spd cassette
    XTR trail brakes
    King 1.5-1 1/8 headset
    King hubs and stans flow rims

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    1,085
    I see nothing wrong with that. If you go with an external lower cup headset and fork at 180 you could maybe get away with 175 cranks depending on where you lived. I would recommend the 12x142 rear wheel as the spacers to go to 135 are sort of a pain when it comes to trailside tube replacement. And honestly, you don't need the talas up front, I would go with just the float to save weight and cut down on seals that tend to make the fork a little stickier compared to float. The seat tube angle is steep enough in conjunction to the wheelbase to keep that front end planted on even the steeper climbs.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ikarus189's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    229
    I got a smokin' deal on the TALAS. I might actually use it on some super steep fire road sections (maybe). I got the 170 mm crank arms, just to be safe.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    1,085
    You can always convert it to float later if you ever feel you want to. I run 170 cranks and though I notice the shorter/lower leverages pedaling I still do fine on it.

  5. #5
    perpetual pucker factor
    Reputation: charging_rhinos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    1,431
    The only things I might add are:

    1) Be sure that your headset has the external cup on the bottom, not the zero-stack. With the 170mm cranks, you'll need the extra stack height that the ext. cups offer. I think your CK headset should be fine, just wanted to reiterate it because it's pretty important.

    2) This is assuming you haven't bought your cranks yet. Have you given any thought to running a straight 2x10? The frame has the ISCG-old tabs that will allow you to run bash protection from the chain guide, rather than a bash ring on the crank spider. So basically, your current setup (if I understand it right) is already a 2x10 with a guide that has a bash guard, as well as an unnecessary bash ring on the big ring position. I'd personally go for a 2x crank in lieu of a 3x, have a better chain line, and drop a few grams by getting rid of the extra bash ring. Either way, I think you ought to be able to run a medium cage derailleur with a 2x setup, and that will keep you from destroying it while hitting rocks. The difference between medium and long cages in terms of rock strikes can be really big. And go Shadow+ to get that sweet clutch action too.

    I know you said you weren't ready to make the switch yet, but I'd really suggest having a look at a 1x10 setup. Lighter, simpler, saves money on front derailleurs, runs quieter, direct chain line, short cage derailleurs that don't hit stuff like long cages do, stronger direct-mount chainrings that can go lower than 32 teeth... There are TONS of benefits. I just switched, and my ONLY regret is not doing it sooner. It's fantastic. The only downside is losing a bit of pedaling ability when going really fast. I used to use my big ring a few times per ride, but I won't ever go back to a 3x or even 2x setup again, even considering the slight loss at the top end. The slight loss in top end has made me adjust my riding style (staying off the brakes more in the turns to keep my speed up), and I feel I'm actually a better rider technically now as a result. HIGHLY recommend it.
    Last edited by charging_rhinos; 03-14-2013 at 11:24 AM.
    tangaroo: What electrolytes do chicken and turkey have again?
    rck18: All of them, because they're meat.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ikarus189's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    229
    Name:  17612_i_1.jpg
Views: 678
Size:  17.5 KBSo...CK headset difinitely not a zero-stack. as for the cranks, it is a decision that is causing much consternation (race face atlas, shimano XT or SLX two-ring)...I'm getting the 3/2 ring guide from Canfield, but it doesn't have a bash...I thought the bash ring would be a good idea to keep the chain from coming off the outside...I went with the long cage because everyone reccommended that to go with the 11-36 cassette (big range)...If I went single ring, I would want at largest a 30t cog, preferably a 28...lots of steep fireroad climbing...any reccommendations for a single ring crank with small chainrings like 28 or 30? I'm still on the fence about the whole crank issue...My thinking was I would start out with a double ring setup, then maybe take off the granny and see how I liked it...also wouldn't running a single ring on a 3-ring crank provide a really good chainline since it's right in the middle?...not very keen on buying two cranksets...I ordered the atlas because I found a great deal on it...
    Last edited by ikarus189; 03-14-2013 at 12:36 PM.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    409
    Firstly grats on getting a One, it's the most fun I've had since the hogs ate my kid brother!

    Now, I have a bunch of advice on this build, I started with almost the same thing, but with a DC fork.

    The headset, yes, get an external lower cup if you can. Make sure to get the right size for fork, tapered or straight steer tube. I had a hard time finding a EC lower cup for a straight steer, but I have the angleset and there is a lot of options with that. The EC will help give you a little bit more BB clearance, which for me is needed because of the terrain I ride. The angleset or similar style can help get more clearance by increasing the HA and bringing the front end in closer.

    For drivetrain I do highly recommend the Canfield micro drive in a 1x configuration. You could probably also do a 2x with it, but if you look at the numbers, a 28x 9-36 is an amazing range, and very close to encompassing the range of a 24/36x 11-36. I was skeptical at first but I am fully sold, amazing setup!

    If you are set on a 2x, I do have some tips. The MRP 2x may be good for lighter AM/freeride, but if you plan do stomp your downhills you may want to look elsewhere. I had this guide for a few weeks, and while I have previously had great report with MRP products, this one just did not jive with what I wanted it to do. It dropped the chain quite a lot on rougher terrain, especially if significant pedaling was involved. The cause, as far as I could tell, was the lack of an outer bash ring. The derailleur did its job for keeping the inside line, but I was constantly dropping on the outside. A few times it even went as far as coming off the lower roller which required taking it apart with little washers and roller parts to try and get the chain back on, trail side... I had thought of putting a bash ring on with the guide, but it will not accept one without modification. After looking around, I found the Gamut P30 Dual which work perfectly for me after that. Cheapest reliable option would be the Blackspire Stinger, which is quite effective when used with a bash ring.

    And just as a tip, I wouldn't go over 170 cranks unless your trails are buttery smooth. I started with 170's and pedals strikes were abundant!

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    63
    I'm 6'1", ride a 2012 One Large.

    Cranks: I really wouldn't go higher than 170.

    CK Headset: I run external for sure.

    Fork: Float 180 for me

    2x: Never ran mine this way.

    28t with 9T: This is a great set up. Flawless shift. Huge range.

    PS: Watch the CK BB. I know it NEVER happens but I got a reject. Went back to SRAM. All CKs stuff is great, just one bad apple I found.

    Good luck
    I got more bikes than skills, son!

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ikarus189's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    229
    So now I'm a little concerned...havn't built up a bike in awhile...the picture of the CK headset I posted earlier is, in fact, an external cup headset, right? please tell me it is. I have a TALAS 180 taper. the canfield micro drive involes a seperate rear hub, correct? I already have my wheels, so if so, not an option right now...about the crank, I got the atlas at a great price (with 24-26-bash) and I figured if I wanted to try single, I would just get a 32 ring for the middle, and get a different chain guide...I really want to keep my options open...still leary about the whole single ring thing for AM. I'm not worried so much about pedal strikes, I looked at the geo, and the BB height is only like .6 or .7 inches lower than my nomad...

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    63

    2013 The One build questions

    Your CK in the picture is external. Don't sweat.

    If you have wheels built, you are set. The 9t is their rear hub. You would have to build another wheel.

    Aspire velotech is great for parts from CK. Give them a ring. Your Talas will just need a simple reducer (top of headset) for your tapered fork. 1.5-1.25.



    Might want to ask Canfield about the best way to set up a 2x crank.
    I got more bikes than skills, son!

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ikarus189's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    229
    thanks everyone!

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rsullivan's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Posts
    492
    You can still run your wheels you bought with a 11-36(10spd) and a 30tooth up front. The 30-11 still gives you plenty of gear for most flat sections and the 30-36 works for alot of climbs. Depending on where you live. I currently have my 2011 ONE set up this way and am pleased. I will be switching the rear hub over to the Micro drive 9T shortly.

    If you end up running this setup go with X9 cranks from SRAM and either the Bling Ring or a gear from NSB. Fairly light and will take the abuse from rock strikes. Also as others have said. Use the Micro MRP chain guide

    Have fun with your build and enjoy "ONE" of the best pedaling bikes on the market!!!
    Trying to painfully relive some of youthful adventures!!

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    409
    TBH the only way a 1x system is worth it to me is with the range that the 9t micro drive provides. I messed around with the gearing charts comparing it to the bikes and gearing I know, and a 28x or even 32x 11-36 just doesn't encompass the range that I want. In most of my rides I would be lacking on one end or the other. So in that aspect the 2x 24/36 was very much so worth it for me.

    I did decide to spend the doh for the X0/Bling ring/9t micro drive setup and I am very impressed. But if you have wheels and don't want to build a new rear than I would suggest a 2x, this bike does both very well.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    23
    Hope you don't mind if I jump in and get your opinions. I too am buying a '13 The One. This will be my first build so any advice is appreciated.

    SLX brakes w/ XT rotors 203/185mm
    SLX 2x9 crankset with bash, if I remember right its 36/22
    SLX Dual pull direct mount FD
    SLX shifters
    SLX 11-36 cassette 10 speed
    SLX shadow 10 speed RD, med cage
    Blackspire guide
    Hadley hubs
    WTB i23 rims w/ DT supercomp spokes
    RS Totem Solo Air 180mm
    CC double barrel air
    CC 110 Ex. Cup headset
    Thomson X4 45mm stem or Answer Rove DJ 50mm
    Answer protaper 780 Dh bars
    Gravity Dropper post

    Pretty much all the parts I am currently using on my current ride or are new and waiting to be mounted on The One. After reading some of the earlier posts in this thread the single speed with micro hub is really interesting. Ugh, I would really hate to sell my hadley rear because I'm loving it. But the simplicity of the single is appealing. I'm trying to picture how it would climb(low gears) in comparison to the 36/22 SLX crank? I think the higher gears would be enough. Another question is if my shifter/FD which are 10 speed compatible, will work with the 2x9 crank? Also I haven't experimented much with stems will the 45/50 mm be enough for climbs? Or will my front wheel be to light? Thanks for your help and opinions! Peace...

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    409
    Quote Originally Posted by JMSmitty View Post
    Hope you don't mind if I jump in and get your opinions. I too am buying a '13 The One. This will be my first build so any advice is appreciated.

    SLX brakes w/ XT rotors 203/185mm
    SLX 2x9 crankset with bash, if I remember right its 36/22
    SLX Dual pull direct mount FD
    SLX shifters
    SLX 11-36 cassette 10 speed
    SLX shadow 10 speed RD, med cage
    Blackspire guide
    Hadley hubs
    WTB i23 rims w/ DT supercomp spokes
    RS Totem Solo Air 180mm
    CC double barrel air
    CC 110 Ex. Cup headset
    Thomson X4 45mm stem or Answer Rove DJ 50mm
    Answer protaper 780 Dh bars
    Gravity Dropper post

    Pretty much all the parts I am currently using on my current ride or are new and waiting to be mounted on The One. After reading some of the earlier posts in this thread the single speed with micro hub is really interesting. Ugh, I would really hate to sell my hadley rear because I'm loving it. But the simplicity of the single is appealing. I'm trying to picture how it would climb(low gears) in comparison to the 36/22 SLX crank? I think the higher gears would be enough. Another question is if my shifter/FD which are 10 speed compatible, will work with the 2x9 crank? Also I haven't experimented much with stems will the 45/50 mm be enough for climbs? Or will my front wheel be to light? Thanks for your help and opinions! Peace...
    Looks like a great build. I think your stem would be just right, I am using a 50mm and love it. The blackspire guide I have on my bullit and it works flawlessly. One thing that you will find is that the ONE works better in the granny gear, as it's suspension design is made to work best with smaller gearing. The 1x9 is a great system and I love it, but you would be abandoning most of your current transmission. The front der should be compatible with 2x9 or 2x10, it's only really the rear that is specifically for one or the other. Check out this Calc and compare your current tranny to a micro drive one and see for yourself how wide the range is

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    18
    I have a 2011 one just went from a 66 rc3 ti to a 55 170 rc3 ti and for general all around riding made a big difference. with the 180 and a external cc hs cup the bike felt slower. If you are looking for a heavy am bike that can really handle it you have the right bike. I also run a 8.75 x8.5 exfusion in the upper link for all around riding it peddles very well and i believe that the upper link is more compatible with air shocks u dont have to change spring rates. I use a fox dhx coil for whistler in the lower link or when i am riding more tech. I am a firm believer in a shorter travel fork for am riding it just seems to be more lively. I had a first gen one and a yeli and a now a 2011 one very happy with my stable.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by TheRage43 View Post
    Looks like a great build. I think your stem would be just right, I am using a 50mm and love it. The blackspire guide I have on my bullit and it works flawlessly. One thing that you will find is that the ONE works better in the granny gear, as it's suspension design is made to work best with smaller gearing. The 1x9 is a great system and I love it, but you would be abandoning most of your current transmission. The front der should be compatible with 2x9 or 2x10, it's only really the rear that is specifically for one or the other. Check out this Calc and compare your current tranny to a micro drive one and see for yourself how wide the range is
    Thanks for the website. Made it easier to picture the difference. I'm really digging the single with the micro drive hub. Are you running the micro drive or other hub? What is your crank setup? I'm wondering if it would be possible to convert my SLX crank to single with 28t chainring? I also see a lot of the spiderless setups but most the cranks are out of my price range.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    23
    Quote Originally Posted by rocknical1 View Post
    I have a 2011 one just went from a 66 rc3 ti to a 55 170 rc3 ti and for general all around riding made a big difference. with the 180 and a external cc hs cup the bike felt slower. If you are looking for a heavy am bike that can really handle it you have the right bike. I also run a 8.75 x8.5 exfusion in the upper link for all around riding it peddles very well and i believe that the upper link is more compatible with air shocks u dont have to change spring rates. I use a fox dhx coil for whistler in the lower link or when i am riding more tech. I am a firm believer in a shorter travel fork for am riding it just seems to be more lively. I had a first gen one and a yeli and a now a 2011 one very happy with my stable.
    Yeah I have some concerns about the 180mm fork. The main reasons I purchased the fork was I found a new 2011 on closeout for $575. Also BB hieght is a bit of a concern because I live in rocky AZ so I figured the 180mm would give me a little more clearance than the 170mm. Maybe you can help me understand the link setup a little better. How does the running the shock in the upper and lower link effect the bikes handling?

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ikarus189's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    229
    just different travel...I think...one is 7", the other is 8"

  20. #20
    DBY
    DBY is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    251
    My 2012 bike has a 565mm a/c Vengeance fork with King headset, external lower cup. CC DB air shock, 8.75 x 2.75.

    In the bottom hole setting the bb height is 14.0". In the top hole setting the bb height is 13.5".

    The result of the higher or lower bb height obviously has effects on the handling, but not enough difference for me to change the way I ride in either setting position. To that end, I just leave it in the bottom hole because it still pedals great and I like the extra bb height.

    Awesome frame!

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    14
    hows it going with your one, i dont know if i should go for it or not bb height seems to be an issue i wanna bomb down on this thing but want to climb on it

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    94
    Thinking seriously about The One. Maybe you all can answer a few suspension questions for me.

    I see some older shock info saying you can use:

    8.75"x2.75" = 177mm-203mm
    8.5"x2.5" = 165mm-190mm

    But don't think smaller shock in available anymore?

    Saw some where that you could use a 8.75"x2.5" shock to get the lower travle setting but with higher BB hieght?

    Is this true? Why not if not?

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ikarus189's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    229
    they only spec The One with the longer shock...shorter travel with smaller shock puts bb height too low. (so I've heard, my frame is not here yet) and some people are using offset spacers to do the shorter travel/higher bb thing...I'll be looking into that when I get mine.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    94
    That's just it, if you read my post I'm asking about using a shock of the same length (8.75") but with shorter travel (2.5"). This would not change BB height, only how far the bike could travel. This is a size option (8.75"x2.5") on the CCDB coil.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ikarus189's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    229
    well, the 2.5 or the 2.75 would be the shock's stroke, not travel, per say. Your wording confused me. And I still don't have an answer to your question. Contact Canfield Bros.

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. 2013 Kona Satori Questions
    By Paranoid_Android in forum 29er Bikes
    Replies: 29
    Last Post: 03-02-2013, 03:31 PM
  2. 2013 sir 9 questions
    By AaronJobe in forum Niner Bikes
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 01-07-2013, 12:04 PM
  3. Bashguards and 2013 SLX cranksets - questions
    By tryinghardrider in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 12-01-2012, 04:53 AM
  4. 2013 rz120 1 questions.
    By vegan_warrior in forum Cannondale
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 11-24-2012, 08:23 PM
  5. New 2013 FSR Stumpjumper report + questions
    By jiggyJ in forum 29er Bikes
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 10-01-2012, 10:36 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •