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  1. #1
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    2013 One BB Height and Crank Length for AM

    I have been obsessing over buying a '13 One for AM use, and have read everything I can get my hands on 2 and 3 times over.

    Pretty convinced that I will love the One, but the one sticking point I have is the recommendation of 170mm cranks or shorter to minimize pedal strikes.

    My hang up is that I have I'm just a bit over 6' 1" but have giraffe legs (just shy of 36.5" inseam), and short cranks just doesn't sound appealing. I've got 8 or 9 bikes in the stable (mtb, road, cross, tandems), and all of them have 175 cranks and the saddle height/fore aft set pretty close to keep my knees happy.

    While I'm interested in the One for it's descending prowess, I still need to be able to climb well since most of the rides this bike will see will involve 1,000-2,000 ft sustained climbs just to get to the first downhill, and one downhill run per ride usually doesn't satisfy my needs.

    From my research it sounds like a 14" bb height is possible on the 2013 One running a 180mm fork in front, EC headset, 8" mode in the back and a meaty set of tires. Sagged to 30%, would that put the static bb height around 11.5"?

    I currently ride a 29er HT with 12" bb height, and my last 26" bike (also a HT) had a 11.5" bb height. No problems w/pedal strike on those bikes (running clipless, not platforms).

    I'm trying to find a frame of reference on BB height since the last FS (and only) bike I owned was in '93 and had 2.5" travel. I would expect an 8" travel bike with 11.5" sagged bb height would still have more pedal strikes than an XC hardtail with the same 11.5" bb height...but by how much?

    FWIW, 95% of my riding involves fire road climbs and fairly steep descents that don't require much pedaling, so I'm less thinking the longer cranks won't be an issue for me.

    Anybody out there riding a one w/175mm cranks?

  2. #2
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    I have a friend about your height running a large frame with a vengeance fork (565mm A2C) and 175 cranks. They might be a bit to long for my taste but he hasnt complain about it. He climbs around 700m regularly (more than a coupe of thousand feet), a lot on fireroads obviously but he does a couple of tricky technical sections as well. Oh! and he has a travel adjustment fork to help him on the way up... go figure.

    What I am trying to say is it is doable as long as your terrain allows. Most of the people would tell you dont do it, though.

    Disclaimer: i wouldn`t recommend using 175 cranks, and a travel adjustment fork as my friend does. Well, I dont even recomend using travel adjustments forks at all.
    Quote Originally Posted by Warp
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  3. #3
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    I would really push you in the direction of 165mm cranks. I have 170's and I hit them on things all the time. I'm no DaVinci on the bike, but I think 175 would be too much.

  4. #4
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    I'm 6'3" with a fairly long inseam, so i am familiar with your concern about switching to a shorter crank. Don't be worried.

    My legs didn't really notice much of a difference when I went from my old 175mm cranks to the 170mm I use now. I bet you'll be just fine. I have 170mm cranks, a Float 180 on the front, and no angleset to lift the bb height. The bb is right around 13", possibly a tenth or two below. I ride all sorts of trails, some of which have lots of climbing and rocky sections. I did hit the pedals every once in a while when i first started riding, but it's very rare nowadays. It's only when I encounter long rocky stretches with large rocks and little to no gaps between them that i have to sometimes ratchet pedal once or twice. Honestly, it doesn't really even cross my mind anymore. My legs know what to do on instinct. The best piece of advice I could give is to get a big cassette in the rear (I went from a 34T to a 36T), and some thin pedals to counteract any potential downsides of the shorter cranks. The thin pedals made it feel a lot more like I was back on the 175s, just by eliminating the huge offset height that my old pedals had.
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  5. #5
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    Thanks for the input C_r,

    Seems like I could probalby go either way. If you're running 170s at 13" BB height, I would think 175s at the 13.75" bb height listed in the '13 geometry chart (based on a 180mm float IIRC and I assume an external cup headset) would be OK too as long as I watch my pedals.

    You touched o a point which I was also puzzling out... which is gearing.

    I'd be less worried about the shorter cranks if I had the gearing to spin faster on the climbs, but seems like a lot of One owner's advocate for single ring up front.

    I was leaning towards a single 32 ring up front with 11-36 out back, but this bike will see lots of steep fire road climbs with 25%+ grades which means pretty low cadence with that gearing.

    Makes me want to reconsider a 2 ring setup up front so I can spin in a 24 if needed.

    Would rather not do a microdrive setup, since I've got a King rear hub that I was planning to use on the build.

    And pedals too.......I was thinking about getting some Crampons, so maybe that would help if I run the shorter cranks.

  6. #6
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    yeah, if you are going for a single ring up front and do lots of steep climbs, I'd strongly recommend something a little smaller, like a 28T direct mount single ring up front, and an 11-36T in the rear. I have an NSB 28T that bolts right onto my Sram X9 cranks' spline. A 32T in front is a pretty darn burly ring to push up big hills. I would not be able to push it on the hills around here for very long at all. Some can, but even the superhuman pedaller at my work switched to a 28T to save his knees the wear and tear of pushing that hard.
    tangaroo: What electrolytes do chicken and turkey have again?
    rck18: All of them, because they're meat.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the input ritopc, I'm not planning on running a travel adjust fork, and really, I can only think of one local technical climb that I would do on this type of bike. Of course, it leads to my favorite singletrack descent!

    Everything else is pretty much fire road climb, singletrack descent. Of course, if the ONE climbs as good as everyone says, maybe I'd just park my 29er hardtail and ride the One everywhere.

  8. #8
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    DO IT! You will not be disappointed!

    The parallel link suspension is designed to lockout the suspension in the granny ring, so if you're running a 1x9 think small for the drive ring, I like the 28t spiderless as well. 170mm cranks can work if you don't ride a lot of really rough terrain but for my area and style the 165's work great. I noticed a difference at first but like anything it became muscle memory and I make it work.

    You have the right idea, long AC fork (565 for vengeance or 66), EC lower cup. I went with a 1.5 deg Works headset swept in for just a little more.

    Also I would highly recommend a dropper post, mainly the Reverb Stealth, for this bike. It really shines with the seat angle.. Up and it feels like a climbing bike, and varying levels of height for whatever type of riding, all at the push of a button.

  9. #9
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    I have a 2012 ONE (Vengeance fork) that I rode with 175 and 170 cranks... I have to say 175 is way too long and even at 170 I still get pedal strikes.
    I have ridden with 175 cranks exclusively for the last ~20 years and I thought I would hate going to 170's for AM use, but frankly I never really noticed a difference.
    The ONE climbs amazingly well. It pedals like it is 10 lbs lighter, hell it pedals better than my XC bike for technical climbing and of course it descends like a bat outta hell.
    Don't over analyze. Take a leap of faith and buy it, you'll love it.
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  10. #10
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    Maybe I sound silly, but would putting a 650b tire rise a little the BB?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by rzozaya1969 View Post
    Maybe I sound silly, but would putting a 650b tire rise a little the BB?
    If your fork will allow clearance for a 650b front, it will raise the bb somewhat. It will also slacken out the front end just a little bit in the process. The rear triangle won't allow clearance for a 650b tire.
    tangaroo: What electrolytes do chicken and turkey have again?
    rck18: All of them, because they're meat.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSteel View Post
    Don't over analyze. Take a leap of faith and buy it, you'll love it.
    I'm an engineer....over-analyzing is my job!!!!

    ...and yes, I am pulling the trigger.

  13. #13
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    I would probably go 28T up front if I was doing 9T micro out back, but I'd be worried about spinning out the 28x11.

    FWIW, I rode one of the tougher local fire road climbs last night in a 32x34 on a 29er without issue. That climb is about 1800 ft gain continiuous, almost all of it 10% or steeper, with the last 1/4 mile at about 25% grade.

    I'm about as over-weight and out of shape as I get at the moment (just came off nearly a month without riding), so with some saddle time, 2 extra teeth out back and the smaller wheel diameter and I'm thinking I might be just fine with a 32T up front.

    Still far easier than SS gearing, and I'm a bit of a habitual big gear masher.

  14. #14
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    Yep.....I love the 125mm KS LEV I'm running on my current bike. Plan on running a 150mm LEV on the ONE when I build it up.

    I swear I hit the lever on my post way more than I do my shifters.

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