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  1. #26
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    Here's a gallery of my complete build: 2013 Jedi - Imgur

    Orange chainguide is going to be replaced with a G3 and I've got HS1 rotors on it now.

  2. #27
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    Brown Santa came by...

    Fit and finish is very nice! And, for this XL, I can slip an Avy Woodie thru the tunnel w/o disassembling the lower link! That's nice!
    But, the Avy's huge spring still won't allow the shock to be dropped into the most progressive upper shock mount.
    2013 Jedi Builds-13-jedi-xl-avy.jpg

    Bare XL frame weight.
    2013 Jedi Builds-13-jedi-xl-bare-frame-weight.jpg

    Looking fwd to this wknd's build session
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Fit and finish is very nice! And, for this XL, I can slip an Avy Woodie thru the tunnel w/o disassembling the lower link! That's nice!
    But, the Avy's huge spring still won't allow the shock to be dropped into the most progressive upper shock mount.
    The top hole is the most linear, not the most progressive actually. I have the same problem with my Woodie (w/ stock 400# steel spring) on my 2013 XL frame though. It only rubs past 50% of the travel. Also, putting mine in the bottom (most progressive) hole yields extremely tight clearances, but it still works.

    And my frame came in at 9.451 lbs .
    2014 Canfield Jedi - 2014 Canfield Balance - 2012 Canfield DJ

  4. #29
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    How do you differentiate between the two ends of the shock...on the frame...upper and lower? Okay, maybe I should rephrase...the most progressive hole of the fwd shock mount, yeah?
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    How do you differentiate between the two ends of the shock...on the frame...upper and lower? Okay, maybe I should rephrase...the most progressive hole of the fwd shock mount, yeah?
    Looks like I misread it...oops .

    So you are saying that the spring on your woodie hits the lower link in the most progressive setting? How about the clearance to the frame in the linear setting when the suspension is compressed?
    2014 Canfield Jedi - 2014 Canfield Balance - 2012 Canfield DJ

  6. #31
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    This is about the Avy Woodie only...

    Quote Originally Posted by Turbocharged View Post
    Looks like I misread it...oops .

    So you are saying that the spring on your woodie hits the lower link in the most progressive setting? How about the clearance to the frame in the linear setting when the suspension is compressed?
    Sorry if I sounded snarky...Engrish not being me native tongue and all...so no worries. You weren't the only one I've confused about upper/fwd and progression position

    So I shot some pics for you...
    With the front loose, you can see one of the loops of the coil hit the link.
    2013 Jedi Builds-13-jedi-xl-spring-lwr-link-frt-loose-.jpg

    I rotated that particular loop out of the way, and a loop behind it hits (didn't shoot it)
    2013 Jedi Builds-13-jedi-xl-spring-lwr-link-frt-loose-moved-spring-.jpg

    I swapped the bolted down end and you can see that coil behind hit.
    2013 Jedi Builds-13-jedi-xl-spring-lwr-link-rr-loose-.jpg

    I shifted the fwd mount to the most linear position, and you can see there's a ton of space for the shock to rotate up. I never had a problem w/ the spring hitting the top of the tunnel/underside of the seat tube on my '12 lrg...
    2013 Jedi Builds-13-jedi-xl-avy-tunnel-01.jpg


    Also, keep in mind this is a 450lbs Ti coil. If I drop it down to the progressive hole, I'd need a 500lbs, and it has to be a steel coil because it'll start rubbing on the sides of the tunnel also.

    I had a DHS w/ a remote resi and a 500lbs steel coil I did manage to make work on the '12 lrg...sorry, del'd the FB album w/ the DHS.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  7. #32
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    Here is a video of mine. Turn up the volume so you can here it hitting....and below the video is a picture of the marks it made on the frame.

    We'll see how this weekend goes in the middle setting, but I am imagining that I will probably end up selling the Woodie and picking up a CCDB.

    EDIT: It also looks like your titanium spring is bigger OD than my steel spring. So that is probably why I can use the most progressive setting and you can't. I'm interested to know if your linear setting does the same thing once you get it built up though.



    2013 Jedi Builds-jedi_hit.jpg
    2014 Canfield Jedi - 2014 Canfield Balance - 2012 Canfield DJ

  8. #33
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    Oh SUCK!
    Say, what weight is your spring?
    I'll prob never go to the linear setting for the type of riding at Trestle. It's a lot of high-speed jump lines there. I want the deep stroke pop, but the beginning stroke to be supple. Could be I had a bad case of sandy 'gina, but the linear was pretty harsh on the small chunder.

    I swapped an email w/ Vin about looking into the X-Fusion HLR Air. Do you have any thoughts on that? Or, I may just put the Elka from the '11 back on...no one rides a 500 w/ that small of a ID, so maybe I can find one cheap
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  9. #34
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    Mine is a 400 lb, 3" stroke steel spring directly from Avalanche.

    My main fear about any air shock on the Jedi is the progressive nature of each compounding and causing either a) the inability to use all the travel with the correct sag or b) have way too much sag to be able to use all the travel...both situations I don't want to find myself in. So if I were to run an air shock at all, it would probably only be in the most linear setting.

    I'm interested to know if a Cane Creek Double Barrel Air will fit the frame though, because I feel that it has the best tuneability that might make it work alright.
    2014 Canfield Jedi - 2014 Canfield Balance - 2012 Canfield DJ

  10. #35
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    I saw Kramerguy(?) had a CCDBa on a '12 Jedi if that helps.

    I agree that in the case of an air shock on the Jedi, I'd use the most linear setting.

    I'll post updates/pics of anything quirky or special that requires attention as the build progress this wknd. Honestly tho, I'm anticipating a very uneventful build. The Avy is a special case the Brothers already know about.
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbocharged View Post
    Mine is a 400 lb, 3" stroke steel spring directly from Avalanche.

    My main fear about any air shock on the Jedi is the progressive nature of each compounding and causing either a) the inability to use all the travel with the correct sag or b) have way too much sag to be able to use all the travel...both situations I don't want to find myself in. So if I were to run an air shock at all, it would probably only be in the most linear setting.

    I'm interested to know if a Cane Creek Double Barrel Air will fit the frame though, because I feel that it has the best tuneability that might make it work alright.
    I ran and DBair on my 12' Jedi, but have a 13' coming in also in a day or so and will have a DBair on it again. Loved the shock and I've tried all three settings. It fitted all three fine no issues. But in the most linear settings (top) the bike rode like it was riding through peanut butter, stuck to the ground with loads of traction. Great for those off camber chuncky trails but made it tough to pop off of rocks mid trial to switch llines, or to just pop over things, tough not impossible. Oh and it took loads of HSC to prevent it bottoming out which was really easy to do. Most progressive (bottom) settings was great also and rode super poppy, and just skipped over the rocks, but you have to take the time to get the rebound right to make it do so, took me a very long time to get it. You kinda lose a bit of traction, but I didn't fiddle too much with my LSC to fix that. Now the middle setting was the golden ticket for me and my riding style. It had a little of the linear feel and poppy feel of both upper, and lower settings, and with all the adjustablity of the DBair made it that much sweeter. Hope this help. Can't wait to build my 13' keeping fingers cross that I see the brown truck tomorrow or the following day!
    .Hoog just texted me and said it's "Surface area to G2 tangential force vector ratio optimization. "

  12. #37
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    Doodooboi, how much do you weigh kitted up?
    Naysayers never apologize. Critics go to their grave thinking everyone else is wrong.
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  13. #38
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    Thanks for the info doodooboi, sounds promising...also interested in your weight though.
    2014 Canfield Jedi - 2014 Canfield Balance - 2012 Canfield DJ

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pau11y View Post
    Doodooboi, how much do you weigh kitted up?
    I'm 215 kitted up, give or take a pound or so. But that's what I use to gauge my sag. I run about 205 on the Dbair.
    .Hoog just texted me and said it's "Surface area to G2 tangential force vector ratio optimization. "

  15. #40
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    Here it is... The FULL 2013 Jedi Color Range

    2013 Jedi Builds-2013-canfield-brothers-jedi-black-black.jpg2013 Jedi Builds-2013-canfield-brothers-jedi-black-blue.jpg2013 Jedi Builds-2013-canfield-brothers-jedi-black-green.jpg2013 Jedi Builds-2013-canfield-brothers-jedi-black-orange.jpg2013 Jedi Builds-2013-canfield-brothers-jedi-black-red.jpg2013 Jedi Builds-2013-canfield-brothers-jedi-black-silver.jpg2013 Jedi Builds-2013-canfield-brothers-jedi-black-turquiose.jpg2013 Jedi Builds-2013-canfield-brothers-jedi-silver-black.jpg2013 Jedi Builds-2013-canfield-brothers-jedi-silver-blue.jpg2013 Jedi Builds-2013-canfield-brothers-jedi-silver-green.jpg2013 Jedi Builds-2013-canfield-brothers-jedi-silver-orange.jpg2013 Jedi Builds-2013-canfield-brothers-jedi-silver-red.jpg2013 Jedi Builds-2013-canfield-brothers-jedi-silver-silver.jpg2013 Jedi Builds-2013-canfield-brothers-jedi-silver-turquoise.jpg

  16. #41
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    And a few closeups...
    2013 Jedi Builds-2013-canfield-brothers-jedi-headtube.jpg2013 Jedi Builds-2013-canfield-brothers-jedi-mrp-g3.jpg2013 Jedi Builds-2013-canfield-brothers-jedi-upper-link.jpg

  17. #42
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    I also wanted to hop in and comment on the shock fitment questions that came up over the last day in regards to Avy's and CCDB Airs. The spring on Avy's have the largest OD of any shock on the market, that in conjunction with the deflection of the spring under compression can cause the rubbing issue you guys are describing. I ran an Avy on my size Small Jedis with no issues over the past 2 seasons, however, the Larges and X Larges have slightly thicker sideplates than the Smalls and Mediums.

    The CCDB Air has been another hot topic in the office. While we really love the performance of the CCDB Airs, the clearance between the air canister and the sideplates of the Jedi can be very tight. As the clearance is tighter than we'd like, we are not recommending this as an option on our frames. We are not saying you shouldn't run one, we are just not recommending it. We will continue to offer the DB Air with The One. We have been really happy with performance of the DB Coil on the Jedi which is why it currently is our main shock option.

    Chris and I will also be testing the BOS Stoy RaRe on our Jedi's this spring. As soon as we have a little time on them, I'll post up a comparison to the DB Coil.

    Vin

  18. #43
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    Thanks for the insight Vin.

    Just snapped a bunch of pics of my new build and figured I would post them up...













    Several other pictures (and hi-res versions of the ones I posted) can be seen here...

    2013-Canfield-Jedi Photo Album - Pinkbike
    2014 Canfield Jedi - 2014 Canfield Balance - 2012 Canfield DJ

  19. #44
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    hmmm good to Know Vin, I was on a 12' medium Jedi, bumped up to a large, well if the DB air won't fit well on the large I'll got back to the coil.
    .Hoog just texted me and said it's "Surface area to G2 tangential force vector ratio optimization. "

  20. #45
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    hey Paully,

    i have the same issue with the CCDB on the large frame, the coil just scratches the top of the linkage, i know its not that good for the frame, but it suits me most when riding.

    the coil also has some scars from the frame, ill take a few pics when i have the chance.
    '12 Canfield One! - f\/ck yeah!
    '12 Canfield brothers Jedi F1 - so fast im back in time

  21. #46
    Roll on Spring Time!
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    That all silver frame/link combo is outrageous. Also liking the orange links for someting different.
    I just want to ride.

  22. #47
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    All those color combos are bad ass!

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by juan pablo View Post
    That all silver frame/link combo is outrageous. Also liking the orange links for someting different.

    Yeah, I thought the silver/silver was going to be boring, but it's pure Platinum! Sean is rocking the combo this year!

  24. #49
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    I agree, that silver on silver really stands out from the rest!
    6'5" 230lbs
    My Build: Vitalmtb - Bike Check

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by KillingtonVT View Post
    Yeah, I thought the silver/silver was going to be boring, but it's pure Platinum! Sean is rocking the combo this year!

    Yeah thought the same thing, well kinda, not boring but possibly washed out. So I switched at the last possible moment to black links with the silver frame. Bike still looks smexy, expecially now all my parts are black anyways. But wouldn't had mind if I stuck with the silver on silver.

    I'll get some pics up on here soon, once I install my cranks, and finsh my wheel build. Guess I can just post up with the older wheels set once my cranks are on.

    My new wheelset will look more the part cause I'm doing silver and black spokes with silver nipples and of course black hoops. with yellow hubs for some contrast.
    .Hoog just texted me and said it's "Surface area to G2 tangential force vector ratio optimization. "

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