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Thread: 2012 One!!!

  1. #101
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    lucky i got mine with the 9T cassette
    but i know what you're saying, that bike just doesnt wanna make you stop pedaling uphill, even though you need to grind sometimes, it just keeps moving.
    '12 Canfield One! - f\/ck yeah!
    '12 Canfield brothers Jedi F1 - so fast im back in time

  2. #102
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    I really want to try one of these sometime. The One is at the top of my list for next bike, although I can't see that happening for a few more years, sadly. Wish Canfield was going to Outerbike.
    "Back off, man. I'm a scientist." - Dr. Peter Venkman

    Riding in Helena? Everything you need to know, right here.

  3. #103
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    I am 6'0" 33" inseam and riding a large One with a 50mm stem and 800mm bars. I use mine for southern Utah all mountain riding, a little freeride, a little dh, whatever the trail brings. This size is perfect for me for all around. However, I do wish the seat tube was shorter for freeride. The medium one only has a 1" shorter top tube and the seat tube would be much more friendly on steep jumps. I would recommend that if you are mostly riding freeride and parks. You will still be able to raise the post high enough and the short top tube shouldn't be too bad for pedaling, especially with wide bars. It will pedal very well either way. And the medium will be much closer to your voltage fr.

  4. #104
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    medium it is

    Thanks guys.
    I ended up going with a medium. It may be a little bit short for climbing, but hopefully tolerable, and much more fun for the downhill.
    Also, I think I'll go 33t front / 11-36 rear. Gearing may be a little tall for some Utah trails, but I don't mind hiking the steep parts. If that doesn't work, front derailleur or 9-36 hub and cassette when $$ permits.

  5. #105
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    Love my ONE!

    I figured now that I have about 10 rides on her I can share my ONE with you all! still have a couple things I want to do, but she's pretty much how I imagined she'd be.

    MyONE

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by socalfyre View Post
    I figured now that I have about 10 rides on her I can share my ONE with you all! still have a couple things I want to do, but she's pretty much how I imagined she'd be.

    MyONE
    Pretty. Damn. SICK!

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by socalfyre View Post
    I figured now that I have about 10 rides on her I can share my ONE with you all! still have a couple things I want to do, but she's pretty much how I imagined she'd be.

    MyONE
    Hey, I gotta know.. how much does your rig weigh?

  8. #108
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    Thanks bigcrs! It's my first "real" bike or at least one that's completely new to me. Rage43 I haven't weighed it since putting on he Outlaws but I'm guessing around 35/36 lbs. which may be a little heavy for a small frame but I'm working on trimming weight where I can. Any ideas?

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by socalfyre View Post
    Thanks bigcrs! It's my first "real" bike or at least one that's completely new to me. Rage43 I haven't weighed it since putting on he Outlaws but I'm guessing around 35/36 lbs. which may be a little heavy for a small frame but I'm working on trimming weight where I can. Any ideas?
    The cheapest and easiest way for you to trim weight would be with the rubber. For me at 195lbs a 850g'ish muddy marry + tubes(winter tire)is as lite as I will go. IMO, it's got to do with your riding weight and then type of riding/terrain. I ride BC all year round, it's unforgivable terrain on tires. All-in-all you could probably loose a lb+ from the rubber alone. The next thing I'd look at is the rims. Not too sure what they weigh but there is a good chuck of weight to trim there.

    Unfortunately from there, the $ to grams don't balance out, but if your willing to spend you should get anywhere between 30-33lbs with no problem.

    For perspective, my '11 large One weighs 34.6 lbs with 740g (summer WTB Tierwolf's) tires & 160ish tubes f&r. A 620g'ish dropper post, Renthal 780mm dh bars, Mavic 521's. But I have 640g XO carbon crankset. I reckon I could drop a pound without loosing the dropper post. As good as I'm willing to get it. Real world build.

  10. #110
    Canfield Brothers
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    Quote Originally Posted by socalfyre View Post
    MyONE
    That's ONE good looking build you have there!

  11. #111
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    Thanks Vin! I can't tell you how stoked I am to have this frame!
    And thanks bigcrs for the input. I'm more than happy with how she is now but I'm sure I'll be tweaking things here and there. I'm just loving the ride and finding my CCDB coil settings. I had to borrow a friends 450# spring to get proper sag since it came with a 350#(which was all that was available at the time of my order). I probably could use a 400 but I'll know for sure after a couple more adjustments. Then cut some weight with a Ti coil

  12. #112
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    Selling my 2011 Medium One for the 2012 Jedi if anyone is interested. For a super low price.
    2011 Canfield The One Medium (reduced price limited time) - Pinkbike

  13. #113
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    Was the head tube angle on the 2012 version ever confirmed as 65*? Sean told me the steepest you could get it without an angle set was about 65.5*, which would indicate a 64* head tube angle in the charts.

    I'm super new to mountain biking and this bike is gonna be a huge gift to myself, so I'm going all out for a first bike, and am wondering if I should consider a 1x10 setup, or just stick with a 2x10, being a noob and all. Looking at the Saint cranks in the various threads, I almost feel I'd be doing the bike an injustice, equipping it with the XT cranks I'd planned on getting, haha. 170mm or 180mm fork, for a general Trail/AM setup? Weighing options between a Lyrik and a Totem.

    Thanks in advance for any insight guys. I have an idea of what I want, but thought I should check with those who've been riding these for a while, and see where I might possibly be setting self up for regret.

  14. #114
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    Hey Heretic Skeptic,

    I have a 2012 the One. Great bike in every way.

    My Fork: 180mm Fox Float on mine. If you are doing more AM go for a 170. My setup leans more towards DH/FR even though it STILL climbs amazing.

    Drivetrain: 1x10 is great I am not going back to a front D again. The gearing IS taller though just be aware. Even with a 32t up front.

    "If" you have any interest. I may be selling my saint 170mm with BB and a 32t AND MRP Mini as a set. I might be going to carbon to drop some weight. If you have any interest PM me... no worries either way.

    You will dig this bike for sure!




    Quote Originally Posted by Heretic Skeptic View Post
    Was the head tube angle on the 2012 version ever confirmed as 65*? Sean told me the steepest you could get it without an angle set was about 65.5*, which would indicate a 64* head tube angle in the charts.

    I'm super new to mountain biking and this bike is gonna be a huge gift to myself, so I'm going all out for a first bike, and am wondering if I should consider a 1x10 setup, or just stick with a 2x10, being a noob and all. Looking at the Saint cranks in the various threads, I almost feel I'd be doing the bike an injustice, equipping it with the XT cranks I'd planned on getting, haha. 170mm or 180mm fork, for a general Trail/AM setup? Weighing options between a Lyrik and a Totem.

    Thanks in advance for any insight guys. I have an idea of what I want, but thought I should check with those who've been riding these for a while, and see where I might possibly be setting self up for regret.
    I got more bikes than skills, son!

  15. #115
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    Hey fauxfreeride! Thanks for hitting me back...I appreciate it.

    I've actually realized that I need to be content with what I have, especially seeing as my funds are very limited, considering I'm about to plunk down $2650 for a frame (how the heck did I get here, haha). I already have 2x10 shifters, SLX brakes, 10-speed cassette and so forth. Selling those to lose money and then spend extra to run a 1x10, or even a 2x10 Saint setup, is just me trying to build the "perfect bike" the first time, and it's completely unnecessary. I should probably be buying something like a $1750 Giant frame, and be happy I even have a bike of this caliber, but....naaaah, haha. You only live once (as far as we know)!

    So, I'm gonna either run a 2x10 XT or 2x10 SLX setup, 24-32, and 11-32 cassette, just to start. I'll likely swap to an 11-36 at some point, and once I start breaking drivetrain parts, I'll have a much better idea of whether I'm up to a 1x10, or 2x10 with a 22-36 setup. Seems practical, especially considering how new I am to the sport. I just need to decide on SLX vs XT. Price difference is $40, so I may as well go XT, but I've been wondering about durability vs SLX, which seems to be labeled as a workhorse type of series. Anyway....

    Direct mount Front D, dual pull sound right?

    What seatpost length are you all running (I noticed the seat tube is cut off that the bottom)? Can only afford Thomson at this point. Dropper in the near future, I hope.

    Wondering what setting I should run the rear shock at, if I'm to run a 170mm fork? 200mm rear and 170mm front seems like it may have some balance issues. Experiences? Thoughts?

    What angleset are folks finding works the best? I just caught wind of the Works Components brand, but have of course been looking at the Cane Creek and VP Varial anglesets as well. Definitely wanna get that head tube angle closer to 66*, so an angleset is a must.

    Lyrik @ 170mm, or Totem @ 170mm?

    Anyone know the stack for the Medium and Large sizes?

    Medium or Large, for 5'11", 32.5" inseam, for primarily Trail/AM rig, but of course will eventually try a DH setup from time to time? 17.3" reach seems loooong.

    Yeah...I think that about covers my "minor" questions and concerns, haha! Pardon the lengthy psot all...I just want do my very best to make sure I do it right the first time, and avoid returning items to get the right stuff. Any and all help is truly, truly appreciated.

    Dakhil

  16. #116
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    I know single rings are all the rage now... I guess it depends a lot on what riding you're doing, and how strong you are. The only real advantage I see to a single is you can run a better chain guide. If you have a competent mechanic setting up your FD, throwing chains isn't a issue - which makes me wonder if lack of competent wrenches is the real problem. I use my granny gear <5% of the time, but I'd be walking otherwise. And I'd rather have a tighter cassette and a dual ring then the sloppy 11-36 range that's common now (with huge gaps between gears).

    XT vs SLX cranks: sure the XT is only $40 more (unless you shop around a bit), but I can't see anything you're actually getting for that money. Durability is the same, weight is close enough, shifting is equal, and the BB bearings are the same. Spend that $40 on something else (XT shifters, IMO are worth the difference over SLX).

    Having the same travel front and rear for the sake of "balance" is overblown. IMO the different travel settings on the one are better used for either rider weight (with heavier riders using the 7" setting, to reduce the leverage ratio, and therefor needing lower spring rate and damping) or style (8" more active, 7" firmer). You could run a 150f, 200r and it wouldn't bother you unless you were constantly thinking about it. The old (2009) one had 8" travel, with a max fork of 160.

    As for size, I'd ride as many bikes as you can and make note of the critical dimensions. Figure out what you want from them..
    I calculate stack as 23.75 on the med, 23.9 on the L, based on the dimensions Canfield lists. This with a 565mm fork (200 dual or 180 single crown), and a 16mm lower headset stack (which I believe would be less with an adjustable headset). The head tubes are really close in length, and the fork is the same, so I'd expect them to be similar.

  17. #117
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    Thanks Joules. You're feedback really helps me to stay grounded on what's important. Only part I falter on, is liking the way the XT cranks look more than the SLX. I know, I know...I'm a simple dude for that one.

    I can get the Lyrik or Totem for the same price. I think I'm gonna go Totem, even though I'll mostly ride Trail/AM, because I weigh 225 to 230 geared up, it will allow me to grow into the bike and ride damn near anything as I learn, and it is a coil fork. The Lyrik would be Solo Air, and while there's some weight savings there, I was gonna convert the Lyrik to coil anyway, hence added money and more work. Never imagined I'd basically be building a freeride bike months back, but here I am. Totem sound like a good idea, or am I perhaps gonna be to over-biked, in your opinion?

    Stack seems great, so no worries there, if those numbers check out. It's gonna boil down to fit/feel of the cockpit. Large seems more pedal-ready, with the longer seat tube and reach, while Medium would be more playful, though the reach is still very solid for an all-around rig. I think your idea to test ride bikes with similar numbers is a great one.

    Lots to think about, but the big ones are fork and frame, so i'll work towards figuring those out, and move forward from there.

  18. #118
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    I have a Boxxer on mine and don't feel like it's too much. I had a 160mm lyric from the old frame for a while, based on that, I'd definitely go toward the Totem over the lyric. And, in general it's easier to shorten forks than lengthen, if you got the Lyric and felt you out grew it, you're SOL, where if you got the totem and felt it was too much, or that you might grow into it, you could shorten it by 10mm (I believe someone on the Sram forum was talking about doing that).

    with the cranks, hey whatever spins your beanie. We all have aesthetic preferences (mine is just a deliberate industrial/"I don't give a damn about looks" -type).

  19. #119
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    Haha! I feel you on the looks comment. I think I just need t get it out of my system, and once I crash and mess the XTs up, I'll wish I had gotten the less costly cranks. I always heard new guys lust after looks more than function, so hopefully I'll get over it. Really though, it's just the simplicity of the straight black cranks that draws me in.

    Crossup runs a Boxxer full-time as well and says that works great for him. I can't afford it, but I'm actually wondering if the Boxxer might be more plush than the Totem, as it has 35mm stanchions, while the Totem has 40mm. Hoping the Totem isn't too stiff for everyday use.

    In the end, all of this **** is fantastic, and for someone as new as I am, I may as well just grab the stuff I'm leaning towards, because I have a lot to learn anyway. I figure in a few years, I'll know better what suits me, the bike and so forth. Then, my next component choices will be more on point, and I'll need to bother you guys way less about what to do. Just let me know that the Totem won't absolutely suck for trail riding, please. I am 225 to 230 geared up, so I'm imagining the inherent stiffness won't bother me as much as a lighter rider, though I could just be fooling self.

  20. #120
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    I got my boxxer largely on crossup's recommendation. There are some bumping around ebay for pretty good prices. Mine is a WC, I paid about $900 for it all told (shipping, and it didn't come with the tall crown, so I bought one from someone who got both with his, but didn't need it).

    it sounds like you might not be on the same page when talking about fork stiffness. Generally what people mean is stiffness in directions other than the travel i.e., twisting, side-to-side and front-to-back flex. I don't really think there's such a thing as "too stiff" in a suspension fork. It's more that additional stiffness carries a weight penalty, so you usually just want "stiff enough." The spring and damper will determine how plush your fork is, not really the stanchion diameter.

  21. #121
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    You got a crazy deal on that Boxxer. Ever tried the Fox 40? That seems to be one Fox fork that people prefer over the Rockshox offering, but it's too rich for my blood. WC vs R2C2 is basically air vs coil, or is there more to it? Has to be, with the price difference. All of the 8" forks look serious as hell.

    Thank you for clearing that up, because I definitely was not on the same page. The stiffness concept makes a lot more sense now. I think I can hack the extra pound, for less worry during unskilled drops and jumps, hahaha. It'll be a great learning experience, as we talked about, and I won't feel as though the bike is lacking anything. Any apprehension will be all about me. Noe that you cleared that up, I think I'd actually prefer the Totem on The One. It's a bit burlier than the standard AM bikes, so it may deserve a burlier fork.

  22. #122
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    Seatpost: I have a Spec blacklite 125 on mine. Great clearance. I am 6'2" on a large.
    My headset is not a CC angle and with the 180 fork and a CCDB in 8"
    MY HA is 64.5 (I think).

    Good luck with the build!
    I got more bikes than skills, son!

  23. #123
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    Thanks! For the seatpost, I meant the total length, but I don;t think it matters as much for droppers. Trying to determine if a 410mm is too long, basically.

  24. #124
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    So, who in the Seattle area has a Canfield One they'd be willing to let me test ride, to get a feel for the sizing and suspension action? I'd be eternally indebted to you! I think Sean's got a medium up in Bellingham, but anyone with a medium or large, pleeeease let me know.

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heretic Skeptic View Post
    So, who in the Seattle area has a Canfield One they'd be willing to let me test ride, to get a feel for the sizing and suspension action? I'd be eternally indebted to you! I think Sean's got a medium up in Bellingham, but anyone with a medium or large, pleeeease let me know.
    I'm in Vancouver with a large 2011. 50mm stem, 160 fork and an Avy air shock. Your more than welcome to have a rip on it if your up this way.

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