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  1. #51
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    The BB is very low indeed with a 160mm float and zero stack headset.

  2. #52
    a tight kick sound
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    Holy Stack height Batman

    Perfection!!!! Love to hear your thoughts on ride and fit after you have some time on er.

  3. #53
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    How's the fit? I saw on geometry chart that all sizes have 105mm headtube length. Maybe that's because all must have same HA with angleset, but for XL it seems to me too low

  4. #54
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    The fit is spot on, but yearh, the headtube is very short, and that explains the stack height ; )

  5. #55
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    That's the same color scheme as what I ordered. Thanks for the pics, looks awesome

  6. #56
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    Here is my One, She got here this past monday. Just waiting for a few parts and I am ready to hit the dirt.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 Canfield Bros "THE ONE" info-canfield-one.jpg  


  7. #57
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    Build tips

    The One is designed as a low, long and slack DH bike. When you want to run it as a AM bike we suggest a external lower cup on the HT and short cranks to keep the BB up. The frame uses a 222mm (8.75") rear shock I to I where as the older One was able to use both a 8.5" I to I and a 8.75". An 8.5" will make the BB way to low for normal use.

    The HT is a 1.5" so you can run a Cane Creek Angleset. When you steepen the HA, it brings the fork crown back, closer to the frame so with the full 1.5 deg steeper cup, it can be close. They offer a lower cup that is external so if your running it 1.5 deg steeper, it will buy you the space needed to clear the fork crown. Otherwise, the 0.5 and 1 deg should be fine but we still recommend the external cup for BB height.

    We recommend that everyone use some type of chain guide on these frames. If the chain falls inside of the granny ring, it can get caught under the lower link and mess up the ISCG tabs. The MRP XCG is a good one for multi ring setups and any DH type guide will work for a single ring.
    Last edited by flymybike; 04-21-2011 at 12:31 PM. Reason: Added a title

  8. #58
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    Kinda having a WTF moment...

    Web page indicates 6.5" travel front and rear for an all mountain bike, 7" for Freeride and 8" for downhill. Using either a 2.5 or 2.75 in shock. When you refer to 2.5 or 2.75 you are indicating stroke length of shock? And the new ONE needs an I -to- I of 8.75"?

    So to get the all mountain/freeride I would need an 8.75 I-to-I with a 2.5 inch stroke? And an external bearing cup on the headset?

    And a chainguard?

    Quote Originally Posted by flymybike
    The One is designed as a low, long and slack DH bike. When you want to run it as a AM bike we suggest a external lower cup on the HT and short cranks to keep the BB up. The frame uses a 222mm (8.75") rear shock I to I where as the older One was able to use both a 8.5" I to I and a 8.75". An 8.5" will make the BB way to low for normal use.

    The HT is a 1.5" so you can run a Cane Creek Angleset. When you steepen the HA, it brings the fork crown back, closer to the frame so with the full 1.5 deg steeper cup, it can be close. They offer a lower cup that is external so if your running it 1.5 deg steeper, it will buy you the space needed to clear the fork crown. Otherwise, the 0.5 and 1 deg should be fine but we still recommend the external cup for BB height.

    We recommend that everyone use some type of chain guide on these frames. If the chain falls inside of the granny ring, it can get caught under the lower link and mess up the ISCG tabs. The MRP XCG is a good one for multi ring setups and any DH type guide will work for a single ring.

  9. #59
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    That's right. Some shocks are offered in a 8.75" I to I but strokes are different from 2.5, 2.6 and 2.75. The 2.5 stroke will give you the 6.5" travel. The 8.75" I to I is manitory to not have your feet in the ground. We can get the right shock for what you want when you order.
    The external bearing cup on the headset will help you have better pedal clearance. If you are going for DH race low, then a flush lower cup will be fine. We are talking a 1/4" difference at the most but every little bit will get you dialed in better.

    The chainguide is to eliminate the chance of droping your chain under the lower link. Since I built up the first One frame I haven't had an issue with it but I highly recommend using one.

    These are all recomendations to make the bike the best for the riding you want to do with it. I'm happy to talk all this through to help you have a better understanding of what each tweek will do to the ride. Give me a call, 801-548-2556

  10. #60
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    Thanks,

    getting things sorted out. I do have a 2011 XL ONE on the way, (Although not quite what I expected. There were/are issues with the orange links....) to replace my '08 Large ONE.

    Way back in Jan. I spoke with one of you, I think it was Chris. We spoke about reusing my current Pushed Vivid 5.1 and which fork I am planning to use (Pushed 36 Van 160mm). He thought that was a good setup for what I intend to do.

    I have been considering adding the MRC XCG to the 08. I'll make sure I get one for the '11. And I was waiting on headsets until the frame arrived to make sure I wouldn't be banging too many rocks and such.

    I did add a set of your Crampons to the 08. Loving them. I had been running clipless since the late 90's.


    Quote Originally Posted by flymybike
    That's right. Some shocks are offered in a 8.75" I to I but strokes are different from 2.5, 2.6 and 2.75. The 2.5 stroke will give you the 6.5" travel. The 8.75" I to I is manitory to not have your feet in the ground. We can get the right shock for what you want when you order.
    The external bearing cup on the headset will help you have better pedal clearance. If you are going for DH race low, then a flush lower cup will be fine. We are talking a 1/4" difference at the most but every little bit will get you dialed in better.

    The chainguide is to eliminate the chance of droping your chain under the lower link. Since I built up the first One frame I haven't had an issue with it but I highly recommend using one.

    These are all recomendations to make the bike the best for the riding you want to do with it. I'm happy to talk all this through to help you have a better understanding of what each tweek will do to the ride. Give me a call, 801-548-2556

  11. #61
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    V.P., Any ride report or setup changes?

    I have a 170mm lyrik on the way and have a old DHX 5.0 shock in the 2.75 stroke. But wanting to get it down to the 2.5 stroke so It'll be more of a AM bike for me. I got a Cane Creek Angle set and just realized that I ordered the wrong one with the flush bottom cup so my front end is going to be pretty low. How did you setup turn out on you for your first few rides.

  12. #62
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    Xmas in May

    2011 XL ONE delivered to shop today, finally. LBS will be doing the parts swap (from 08 ONE) and build up.
    Build:
    2011 XL ONE (New. Ti gray with White links)
    Pushed VAN 36 160 mm
    Pushed Vivid 5.1 (8.75 X 2.75)
    Wheels (Hadleys laced to 5.1s)
    Tires: Schawble BB front, Knobby Nic rear
    Brakes: Hope V2 Vented rotors, FR and rear
    Shifters: X.0 triggers
    Rear Der: X.0
    Front der: SLX direct mount (new)
    Crank set: RF Atlas
    BB: Phil Wood external cups/bearings
    Pedals: Crampon (Canfield)
    Stem: Thomson
    Seat post: Thomson
    Seat: Fiz zak Gobi XM
    Headset: CK 1.5 Devolution (new)
    Chain Guide: MRP XCG (new)
    Bars: Ragley Carnegie Carbon
    Cassette: SRAM 9 Speed

    Photos to follow

  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by doodooboi
    V.P., Any ride report or setup changes?
    Hi there, im playing around with different setups, check out my blog for more info:

    http://all-mountain-next.blogspot.com/


  14. #64
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    60 seconds of hard hitting bikepark on The ONE:





    Youtube link:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v96zA...=youtu.be&HD=1

  15. #65
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    Nice edit V.P.

    My Ti with black links (med) sits awaiting parts.

    DRS
    "Always remember to be yourself. Unless you suck."
    Joss Whedon

  16. #66
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    Brown Santa is bringing mine on monday. Woo-hoo!

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by drsmonkey
    Nice edit V.P.

    My Ti with black links (med) sits awaiting parts.

    DRS

    Thanks man : )

  18. #68
    POLAND (Europe)
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    Our The One finally arrived
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 Canfield Bros "THE ONE" info-dsc_0181.jpg  


  19. #69
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    Hey Doodooboi,

    Saw over in DH/FR Jedi thread that the BB is too low with 2.75" stroke shock. Wondering what your bottom stack height is, I think that your Lyric's A2C is 555mm.

    Trying to get a feel for the geo numbers as I'm putting together my build. The geo charts are based on a 565mm A2C with a 16mm stack height, I'm debating a tapered v. 1-1/8" straight steerer.
    "Always remember to be yourself. Unless you suck."
    Joss Whedon

  20. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by drsmonkey
    Hey Doodooboi,

    Saw over in DH/FR Jedi thread that the BB is too low with 2.75" stroke shock. Wondering what your bottom stack height is, I think that your Lyric's A2C is 555mm.

    Trying to get a feel for the geo numbers as I'm putting together my build. The geo charts are based on a 565mm A2C with a 16mm stack height, I'm debating a tapered v. 1-1/8" straight steerer.
    Well I have a regular CC Angle set headset bottom cup so I think it's about 2mm thick or even less. It's pretty flush. Now with that setup I am sitting at a 13.5" bb with a 66-66.5 HA. With a 2.75" stroke shock and that low bb, on a full bottom out, the pedals come really, really close to the ground matter a fact I hit the pedals. So with a 2.5 stroke I am hoping for a little less full bottom out, about .5 inches. I really like the Geo on the bike tho. I use to ride a 13.8"-14" bb with a 66 HA and the New One is right around there. Just gotta time the pedaling a bit and all is good. I don't want to put a full 5mm bottom cup cause that would rake out the bike more and I already have full 1.5 degree tuck on the CC angleset. So with the 5mm bottom cup would rake out my bike to a 65.5-66 and that would kill the climbing that I like. It would raise the BB but I think it's not worth it. I'm just going with the shorter stroke shock and call it a day. Bike rails and climbs really really good right where it is and am starting to really love the charateristics of the bike handling.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2011 Canfield Bros "THE ONE" info-one.jpg  


  21. #71
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    Let's hear the ride reports!

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dude!
    Let's hear the ride reports!

    Alright I'll bite, Just remeber this is just a review is true to my knowledge and unbais as possible. Oh and this is coming from a 3-4 days straight of riding the bike.
    So first off I would to let you know what I was looking for in a pedal bike like this. I came off of a 08' 575 before my 08' One. And the reason I got rid of the 575 is due to the carbon seat stays. Just didn't cut it here in AZ for me. I broke that thing in about 2 months from having the bike.
    So when the One came out, I figured it would be the bike to have here. So with all this said I looking for a 575 kind of bike that could take bigger hits and climb just like it.

    The new 11' One really hit it on the nail for me so far. Got the Geo that I was looking for execpt maybe a 0.2"-0.5" missing on the bb height. Which I have come to terms and is fine riding it the way it is.

    Pedaling/Climbing. Well with my current set up, this bike has out shine the previous One on the climbing aspect by leaps and bounds. I really dug how my 1st gen One climbed but just never felt smooth or effortless like the 575 that I got off of. Now this One V 2.0 has been really fun to climb. Did lots of pedaling/climbing on the first weekend I had the bike which I spent in Moab. Then when I returned to Phx, I took out to my local trials and man I was very relieve that it wasn't the new bike stoke that kept me from boggin on the climbs cause it climbed things easier than I thought it would.
    It's super smooth and nice to pedal in the granny gear up front. Just sit and spin.
    But if you want to hammer it in the bigger ring and off the seat it just excels out of the gate so well. It almost feels like it has a "Anti-squat" action going on in the bike when you are putting the power down.
    Haven't weighed the bike yet but I believe it's in the sub 35lbs area. I had my previous One in the same weight class and my 575 at the 30lbs mark. The new One climbs like the weight of the 575. So on a 5 star rating for pedaling efficency and climbing I give a 4 starts. Lost of a star due to low BB and what it would take to get it up. And the effort to tuck in the HA of the fork so it would look like a cadillac climbing a hill. (Thank you Cane Creek)

    Descending. This is where the bike really shines the best. It's really a DH rider's pedal bike. Coming off a 08' jedi this 11' One is right up there as to the way it handles the Dh portions of the trail. Having that 135mm x 12mm axle in the rear has really stiffen things up well and just keeps your lines nice and steady. Can't really say anything,more new to as how it rides on the Dh side of things, cause this is where you can tell the bike was really made for. So no let down in this department. Besides having such low BB, once again, has you watching out how hard to land from jumps and drops, and your lines when you want to pedal through the chunk.
    Now this is where the only true con in this portion of my review. Since this bike pedals so well and really well through the chunk it's kinda hard to do when your pedals have a small margin of space to move when in the chunky stuff. So once again, got to fault the bike a little for being too low for my taste. Now with that said the bike can really keep it's speed really well through the chunk that you may not even need to pedal through it cause a little pumping on this bike goes along way. Most bikes, with this much travel, you got to put lots of effort when pumping but not the One. It's very responsive!

    As for jumping and flight time. I only got in a few moments in the air with in those 3-4 days of riding. But it flies and jumps like a Canfield bike. Almost flawless. Very steady in the air and nimble and easy to whip around. Bike holds up well to drops also and no flexing to note

    So this is just my first initial review of the bike for riding it for 3-4 days straight. It may change for the better or worse as I put more miles on her and ride alot more different terrain. Glad to have the oportunity to ride different, new, and old terrain in the those few days of riding in Moab and Phx.

    This is honestly what I felt and it could still be the new bike stoke talking. So take it for what it is a first initial review with only a few days of riding. I'm not saying that this is the end all bikes but it has greatly improved in the areas the 1st gen was lacking.
    My build on this bike is partly old parts that came from the 575 which moved to the 1st gen One now on to the V2. Only thing really new is the CK hubs on DT EX500. I had DT swiss 340's on 5.1d's. Just to give you a more real comparison from bike to bike.

    Sorry so long and hope this helps anyone on the fence.

  23. #73
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    Thanks!!!!

    ....
    Last edited by Dude!; 05-18-2011 at 04:36 PM.

  24. #74
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    Thanks for the review doodoo. Lance told me I'd want the One instead of Jedi for what I'm riding, and you have confirmed it.

    Don't think BB height is going to bother me at all, I'm going with a 180mm tapered fork that will have some stack height. I've been on a 66 HA bike FR bike, and I'm stoked to go little slacker.

    I've been debating selling my trail bike to expedite building the One, and after your review I'm thinking that I can get away with making the One my only bike (except for the DJ, BMX, and road bikes )
    "Always remember to be yourself. Unless you suck."
    Joss Whedon

  25. #75
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    ...
    Last edited by Dude!; 05-18-2011 at 04:36 PM.

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