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  1. #1
    The Element Of Choice
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    Shimano 525 Disc Breaks are weak.

    I am new to this forum and new to disc breaks. mine feel weak and most people say you can pull half way on lever and it should stand on front wheel. I can bare down on them hard and no lock up or standing front wheel. I have hydraulics by the way. Is there an adjustment or would bleeding them help. You can pull half way and rim breaks feel stronger. If you no about this then let me know. Thanks for Reading. I posted this on another part of the forum bu since I ride a Element I thought I would post it here also.

  2. #2
    opiate of the masses
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockymountainelement50
    I am new to this forum and new to disc breaks. mine feel weak and most people say you can pull half way on lever and it should stand on front wheel. I can bare down on them hard and no lock up or standing front wheel. I have hydraulics by the way. Is there an adjustment or would bleeding them help. You can pull half way and rim breaks feel stronger. If you no about this then let me know. Thanks for Reading. I posted this on another part of the forum bu since I ride a Element I thought I would post it here also.
    I had a similar problem with my Switch and it was a glazed front disc. I took a fine grit paper to the disc and the problem was solved.

  3. #3
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    There are two major (but easily fixed) issues with Deroe 525 brakes. The first is that Shimano brakes require a really long time to bed in before they actually feel powerful. This can be sped up by riding around for a few miles while lightly dragging the front brake. You will actually feel the brakes get stronger as you do this. This will not make them as good as they should be though.

    The next issue is Deore 525 disc brakes use resin pads as the stock pads. Resin pads produce less heat than semi-metallic pads but generally do not provide very much stopping power in wet or dry. If you intend to use the Deore brakes on DH runs, then you need to leave the resin pads in otherwise you will overheat the whole system while braking. If you intend to use the brakes for XC or AM riding, switch the front brake pads to semi-metallic brake pads. The Galfer brake pads are some of the best, and the Koolstop (which are a lot easier to find) are really good too. Both will completely transform your brakes and make them magnitudes stronger than v-brakes.

    It should be noted that if your bike has the same size of rotors on the front as the rear (which the Element does, both 160 mm size), then you want to leave the stock resin pads in the rear and only buy new semi-metallic pads for the front. This is because the braking bais should be about 70% front and 30% rear due to weight tranfer. You will find that you can lock up you rear brakes pretty easily even with the stock resin pads but yet you find the front with resin pads to be inadequate. You will end up with an extra pair of resin pads for the rear.

    If your front pads were contaminated with oil, they would also feel weak. This could have occured by someone touching the rotors with their fingers or spilling fluid on the pads. This can be easily fixed by baking the pads in the oven for 20 mins at 400 F, then lightly sanding the frcition material on the pads clean. Also you will need to clean the rotors with rubbing alcohol or brake parts cleaner (non-chlorinated is best to use as it won't hurt any rubber/plastic parts it gets on).

    If you do have air in the system and the brakes need to be bled, the symptoms of this would be a soft/mushy feeling brake level which you can easily pull all the way into the hadlebar while braking or a brake lever which won't return to its normal position after applying the brakes.

    I would buy some new front pads and work from there as they are cheap and you would want them anyways.
    There is no added value to my participation - in fact, just more confusion.

  4. #4
    The Element Of Choice
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    Thanks.

    thank you both for your help. will try.

  5. #5
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    Maybe, you just have to tighten the little allen bolt at the base of the handle. It should adjust to distance you have to pull on the handle before the breaks are activated...

    Pedro

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro2005
    Maybe, you just have to tighten the little allen bolt at the base of the handle. It should adjust to distance you have to pull on the handle before the breaks are activated...

    Pedro
    If you're talking about the lever travel adjustment screw you have to be careful using that. If you pull the levers too close to the bar the brake will feel really mushy. I'm saying Pedro's tip is bad; it's just that you need to adjust in small increments and periodically check for feel.

    That said, based upon your description I think someone got some fluid on your pads. If your rear break is working okay then switch the pads between the front and the rear (be careful not to mix them up) and see if you notice an improvement.

  7. #7
    The Element Of Choice
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    Update

    thought i would let everone know who reads this and who might be looking for the same advice that i was. i put the pads in the oven at 400 for 20 minutes and them whith pliers since there hot held them with pliers and sanded the the pads with a fine grit and then took alcohol wipes and cleaned the discs. thast helped the breaking alittle bit more to the poing of raising the rear wheel of the groud with me sitting and im 6'0 225. also recently left rear pads on and upgraded front pads to koll stop pads wich seems to help alittle more. anyway thats about it hope maybe someone gets something from this since i did.
    A man looks into the abyss. Thereís nothing staring back at him. At that moment, a man finds his character. And thatís what keeps him out of the abyss.

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