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Thread: Oryx Thread!

  1. #1
    dreaming of bottlerockets
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    Oryx Thread!

    I've noticed that we don't have a true Oryx thread yet...

    Does anyone else ride an Oryx? Post up!

    Here are some pics of my '04 DD66:






    Forks are black-painted '04 Z150's. I just need to get rid of the Doubletrack sticker, and I'll be happy .

    I use this bike for everything. It's a good trail/freeride frame. It would be a better DJ/street rig with a different setup, which it will probably be once I get a Preston FR in about a year .

  2. #2
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    I've ridden this one for 2 years

    purchased in 2002, the original fork was real crap (Z1 wedge) changed twice under warranty by Zoke, the frame was a tank but way too heavy more than 7 pounds. The rear triangle was too flexy, the rear tire rub when full torque on the crank. Finally this frame broke in a weld at the seattube-toptube jonction...change under warranty for a 2004 frame....i've sold this one and purchase a santacruz chameleon.....
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  3. #3
    dreaming of bottlerockets
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    They supposedly fixed the problems the DD frames had for the '04's.

    My only complaint so far is lack of rear tire clearance (I run 2.5 Minions), and extra beef where it isn't really needed.

    Mine is the long version of the larger frame. I think I would have preferred a regular, but the frame was pretty cheap when I bought it.

    If you get one of these warrentied now, I've heard you get a Rockey Mountain Flow.

  4. #4
    Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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    I own a hurricane 250 (albeit with zero original spec parts other than the shock) and have a custom painted Oryx Team XC hardtail frame I haven't decided how to assemble as of yet.



    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  5. #5
    SpitFire Pilot
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    Two days ago I became the proud owner of a 2nd-hand SpitFire 33. So far I'm impressed! No pics yet though.

    Although I do have some Q's regarding the rear suspension: (I'm new to FS)

    Q #1 I can't seem to tell which travel settings are what. Right now the bike is in the setting closest to the headtube. Is that the 4" 5" or 6" setting?

    Q #2 How do actually adjust the shock through the various settings? I tried getting the bolts out but one of them seems to be stuck somehow. (I'm turning and turning the screw and it's not coming out) I didn't push my luck and quickly reassembled what I took apart just to be safe.

    Thanks.

    -PB

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by PetroBoy
    Two days ago I became the proud owner of a 2nd-hand SpitFire 33. So far I'm impressed! No pics yet though.

    Although I do have some Q's regarding the rear suspension: (I'm new to FS)

    Q #1 I can't seem to tell which travel settings are what. Right now the bike is in the setting closest to the headtube. Is that the 4" 5" or 6" setting?

    Q #2 How do actually adjust the shock through the various settings? I tried getting the bolts out but one of them seems to be stuck somehow. (I'm turning and turning the screw and it's not coming out) I didn't push my luck and quickly reassembled what I took apart just to be safe.

    Thanks.

    -PB
    The setting closest closest to the seatpost is 4 inches and the one closest to the head tube is 6 inches.

    I have a spitfire 33 also, runs pretty good so far.

  7. #7
    SpitFire Pilot
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    The setting closest closest to the seatpost is 4 inches and the one closest to the head tube is 6 inches.

    I have a spitfire 33 also, runs pretty good so far.
    Thanks.

    How long have you had yours? What kind of riding do you do on it? Oh, and do you know if it's DC-Fork-friendly? (I don't have an owners manual, hence the questions)

    -PB
    Quote Originally Posted by .WestCoastHucker.
    conformity sucks......
    You never know what kind of animal the blood's gonna attract...

  8. #8
    Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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    Quote Originally Posted by shredder89
    The setting closest closest to the seatpost is 4 inches and the one closest to the head tube is 6 inches.

    I have a spitfire 33 also, runs pretty good so far.
    Bzzzzt Wrong...But thanks for playing.

    As with ALL walking beam linkages, the closer the shock mount is to the pivot of the linkage, the greater the leverage ratio and thus the greater the wheel travel for a given shock shaft travel. So the mount closest to the seattube is the 6" setting, the middle one is the 5", and the one furthers to the end of the linkage, which in this case is the one closest to the headtube, is the 4" setting.
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  9. #9
    Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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    Take note of the pic of my hurricane and where the shock is mounted, and the two empty mount holes on the linkage ahead of it. Its in the 5" setting... the other two mounts are 4" and 3".
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  10. #10
    SpitFire Pilot
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    Quote Originally Posted by shredder89
    The setting closest closest to the seatpost is 4 inches and the one closest to the head tube is 6 inches.

    I have a spitfire 33 also, runs pretty good so far.
    As with ALL walking beam linkages, the closer the shock mount is to the pivot of the linkage, the greater the leverage ratio and thus the greater the wheel travel for a given shock shaft travel. So the mount closest to the seattube is the 6" setting, the middle one is the 5", and the one furthers to the end of the linkage, which in this case is the one closest to the headtube, is the 4" setting.
    I actually called the guy who sold me the bike just before Shredder posted, (he's one of the big dudes at my favorite bike shop, so you would think he knows what he's talking about) and what he said matched Shredders' input.

    Anyone know where I can pick up an owners manual?

    -PB
    Quote Originally Posted by .WestCoastHucker.
    conformity sucks......
    You never know what kind of animal the blood's gonna attract...

  11. #11
    Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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    And I actually owned a spitfire 33 too, and worked at an Oryx dealer, and own the hurricane still, and Oryx actually labels ITS linkage as to what travel it is. I also know a crapload more about suspension geometry and physics than either the "big dude" you talked to or shredder, and they're both wrong.

    Still don't believe me? Fine. Be a moron. Oh sure you could also do a simple experiment to measure the travel, but it might be too hard on your brain... take the coil spring off the shock, put the bike in a stand, then pull the back wheel upwards, in each of the three settings, and see how much wheel travel you get.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  12. #12
    SpitFire Pilot
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeEight
    And I actually owned a spitfire 33 too, and worked at an Oryx dealer, and own the hurricane still, and Oryx actually labels ITS linkage as to what travel it is. I also know a crapload more about suspension geometry and physics than either the "big dude" you talked to or shredder, and they're both wrong.

    Still don't believe me? Fine. Be a moron. Oh sure you could also do a simple experiment to measure the travel, but it might be too hard on your brain... take the coil spring off the shock, put the bike in a stand, then pull the back wheel upwards, in each of the three settings, and see how much wheel travel you get.
    I never said I didn't believe you, I just said that the guy who sold me the bike said otherwise.

    I will try the various settings, IF you kindly tell me how to. In my first post in this topic I asked "how do I change the settings"---to which no one replied. I've tried already, but the screws don't want to come out (I'll remind you that this is my first FS bike and this is all new to me).

    Thanks though for clarifying the real settings.

    -PB
    Quote Originally Posted by .WestCoastHucker.
    conformity sucks......
    You never know what kind of animal the blood's gonna attract...

  13. #13
    SpitFire Pilot
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    Ok I did switch it the 6" setting and the bike does feel better. However, it seems that there's some play where the shock attaches to the bar...is this normal? It's even noticable while I'm riding.

    And yes, I did make sure that the bolts are tight.

    -PB
    Quote Originally Posted by .WestCoastHucker.
    conformity sucks......
    You never know what kind of animal the blood's gonna attract...

  14. #14
    Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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    Its normal in the context that a LOT of the 2004 Oryx's had missaligned linkages. On my hurricane, and all of them for that matter, the spot where the linkage center pivot point is welded to the seattube, is higher on one side than the other. So when you go to bolt the shock in, you need to do a LOT of work to get the bolt holes to line up to tighten the shock. I suspect this stress might have something to do with my shock now needing a lot more air to support my weight than last season. I think its done some evil things to the propedal low-speed compression damping circuit.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  15. #15
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    T-Line 650

    Hi, I ride a 2002 T-Line 650,

    it is an awesome XC hardtail race bike, will post pics soon.
    will be for sale soon, sadly...

    JF

  16. #16
    SpitFire Pilot
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    This post is mostly aimed at DeeEight but I'm still open to advice from everyone.

    In the picture below the highlighted areas are where the shock connects to the "rocking arm" (?) there is quite noticable play/movement when riding/picking up the bike.

    I've been riding with the play because I've asked twice about it at the shop I got it from and both times was told it was fine and wouldn't affect the frame in any negative way.

    The shop I got the bike from also recently had a SpitFire 99 for sale which I snatched up and I noticed it had no play whatsoever in the same place where I have the problem on the 33. I asked how this could be and they said I still needn't worry and that the "new" (used 99) bike didn't have any play because it benefitted from slightly higher tolerances when it was made.

    I then was at another shop and they noticed the play and said that I really need to order a bushing kit for the highlighted area in the pic below.

    This leaves me wondering, this shop that said this is a problem is not a dealer for Oryx and (I'm guessing) isn't too familiar with Spitfires. So it possible that this is normal for these bikes and isn't really a concern after all but these guys are used to this being a problem for other similar bikes and are therefore givng me the advice they normally give for a situation like this?

    OR

    (what I'm worried about, and is far more likely) Is this a real concern in regards to the longevity of the frame and in need of immediate action? If so is there such a thing as the suggested "bushing kit" that could fix this? And there is how can I get one if Oryx is defunct?

    I do still want the 33 functioning rather than just having the 99 for reasons I'll spare you all for now since this post is long enough already.

    Thanks In Advance for any help you guys can give me
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    Quote Originally Posted by .WestCoastHucker.
    conformity sucks......
    You never know what kind of animal the blood's gonna attract...

  17. #17
    Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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    Oryx is defunct as a brand, as is mikado but Procycle as a company is not, and they still operate their other two principal brandnames.... Miele and Rocky Mountain. I'm at TWO months and counting trying to get my hurricane frame replaced mind you.

    The play you're describing would likely be the shock bushings are worn a bit, and the shock is likely shifting a bit as the suspension cycles, from side to side. Other than that it could be the linkage bearings are going and need replacement.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  18. #18
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    I had a 2004 ORYX SPIRFIRE 33 that I purchased new in 2005. The bike was amazing when all the componets were fresh and new. It performed so well and was an absolute blast to ride in so many conditions. I had lots of fun with it and racked up a ton of K'S while I had it. Sadly it was stolen from my residence in Auguest. Its was really too bad.

    I will say one thing about the cycle. I have already stated the bike performed excellent when it was new and everything was fresh. The problem I encountered after 7 or so months of use [ riding every 2 days ] was something with the rear linkage or pivots whent quirky. The rear end components definetely had suffered some kind of unadjustment of something. The shock was doing a really crappy job of absorbing and the rebound was wack no matter what setting I used. I had taken it to LBS but we couldn't find anything wrong with it. It was a pissoff because the bike was so nice to ride when I had first gotten it. I also had some problems with the cables being stiff and various things coming out out adjustment way to fast. Everything else was great!

    Anyways I just figured I would state some issues I had with my ORYX when I owned it.

    Later
    Last edited by WORKMAN; 09-14-2006 at 11:15 AM.
    I LOVE TIRES!

  19. #19
    Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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    A lot of 2004 hurricanes (probably everyone) had a defect in the weld points for the linkage pivot. Basically what happened is they welded one mount off-angle and so when the shock was bolted in on one end (top or bottom bolt), it tweaked it off at an angle. So as it cycled, it was also under sideloads that it wasn't supposed to handle, and the shock center shafts, which is what the oil damping shim stack is connected to, would basically blow the damping after a few months. Mine had no compression damping when I went to ride it the first time this spring. It still had it last fall when I stopped riding it. I used the bike maybe 100 hours total between late 2004 and late 2005 (when you own 5 bikes, you don't spend a lot riding each one). So the stress was finally tooo much for the shock when it was just SITTING in my basement over the winter. This sort of defect only happens if there's a cockup in the jigs used to weld the frame together, which means it happened in the actual factory in taiwan which welded the frames for Oryx (procycle's quebec factory is only capable of making steel frames in-house). It sounds like the spitfires were suffering the same problem though.
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  20. #20
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    could anyone tell me what fork travel range is good for a spitfire 33?

  21. #21
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    130mm travel was what it came stock with.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  22. #22
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    Smile

    i have 130s on it now, ive seen them with bigger travel, im thinking about putting 160s on it

  23. #23
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    I'm trying to identify the year but i have this model Freak 250 here. It has a Fox vanilla rear shock 4" - and Manitou Minute 80-130mm front shock.......pm if interested




  24. #24
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    hey guys. just joined up today. I'm biking with a 66 spitfire and i'm told i can put dual crowns with 170mm on my bike? i have 7 inches or so of rear travel. pics to go up soon.

    I'm also a member of pinkbike.com if anyone is.
    you can add me on here or there SAVAGE-RIDER

  25. #25
    Norco-ite
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    I did my last Elite season on the Oryx Gold in 1998. Sweet ride, I miss the feel of steel.

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