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  1. #1
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    Chain lube for dry SoCal conditions

    What do you guys use?
    I came across these 2 which I've never tried.

    - Rock N Roll Extreme Lube
    Rock n Roll Extreme Chain Lube Reviews

    - Chain-L Lube Lube
    Chain-L Lube Lube Reviews
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Chain lube for dry SoCal conditions-cantitoe_chain_l_lube.jpg  

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  2. #2
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    I hear good things about Rock-n-roll. I've used many, they were all good.

    IMO, use whatever has been working for you. The truth is, you may have to relube after every ride. Learn to look and listen for the signs of a drying out chain and relube as needed.

  3. #3
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    I used a bottle of the rock n roll stuff. Didn't notice it was any better than anything else except that it costs more. I use the finish line teflon dry lube now and I love it. I've noticed that the dirt and dust doesnt stick to it like other lube and it lasts about 40 miles. I still scrub the chain and relube it after every ride and I don't wipe the excess off so it can soak in to the chain over night.

  4. #4
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    I've used Rock n Roll ( a different version), it was good. But not so good I kept using it. I used Prolink for many years and liked it, too. I think it was pretty similar to Rock n Roll but cheaper and more readily available. But recently I discovered Squirt. I read lots of great reviews about it here on mtbr. I was a bit skeptical, but gave it a try. It is great! Doesn't attract any dirt - my chain is cleaner than ever. It lasts for several rides, longer than the other lubes I've used. I highly, highly recommend it.

  5. #5
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    I've tried quite a few different ones and the Rock and Roll extreme works the best. Although it seems like I go through a bottle a lot quicker than other lubes. I think that is due to it being such a fine liquid. It goes on like water, and the directions tell you to pour it on and wipe it off. So after you wipe it off it seems like you don't have enough on so I sometimes feel like I need to repeat the procedure. But it does work the best that I have found for our dry conditions. What's great is that it doesn't gunk up like most other ones.
    Quote Originally Posted by targnik View Post
    So I shoot off all full of bravado, hit this wee booter - grabbing some air, then I land - leading into a greasy rut.

  6. #6
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    I agree about the Finish Line dry lube. I tried it a few years back but I don't know where I got it. Do you know where to get it around San Diego?
    Quote Originally Posted by targnik View Post
    So I shoot off all full of bravado, hit this wee booter - grabbing some air, then I land - leading into a greasy rut.

  7. #7
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    In San Diego, I use Finish Line Ceramic Wax Lube. I find it works better than the standard Finish Line Wax Lube

    Finish Line - Bicycle Lubricants and Care Products

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    I agree about the Finish Line dry lube. I tried it a few years back but I don't know where I got it. Do you know where to get it around San Diego?
    I have purchase it at Black Mountain Bicycles, but usually just pick it up on Amazon.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by S:Drive View Post
    I have purchase it at Black Mountain Bicycles, but usually just pick it up on Amazon.
    Great thanks! I can't believe I never saw it at Black Mountain bikes. Cool because from what I remember it was better than Rock and Roll.
    Quote Originally Posted by targnik View Post
    So I shoot off all full of bravado, hit this wee booter - grabbing some air, then I land - leading into a greasy rut.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Great thanks! I can't believe I never saw it at Black Mountain bikes. Cool because from what I remember it was better than Rock and Roll.
    Also REI

  11. #11
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    DIY lube?

    Anyone tired making lube themselves?

    I use Rock n Roll Gold at the moment, but have just bought some 'wax and grease remover' (similar to shellite) which is a petroleum distillate (like listed on the label of RnR) and plan on disolving some parrafin and beeswax into it.
    Apparently using straight parrafin ends up with the wax just flaking off once the solvent has evaporated.

    Anyone tried a successful formula? I ride on dry dusty trails and hate the chain clogging up quickly.

  12. #12
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    Used many, but I find ProLink gold to be the best, in terms of ease, lack of attracted dirt, resistance to wash-off in splashy stream crossings and how well I think it works. Rock-n-Roll is good stuff, so is Dumonde Tech and T-9, etc...but ProLink just plain works really well in SoCal for dusty conditons and the occasional water crossing.

  13. #13
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    I use the rock n roll gold, along with the shop i work at using it on every bike that comes through e door for sevice, and everyone else that works at the shop. It gets used for both road ad mountain for everyday use. If its wet out we may end up using the extreme, otherwise gold all the way.

  14. #14
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    I've tried several over my 20+ yrs riding and my fav is Pedros Ice Wax.

    Ive been curious to try that Chain-L, but I cant find a reason other than curiousity.
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  15. #15
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    Chain-L works well. It's a sticky lube though, but lasts. I'm back using 4 bucks a quart chainsaw lube from Home Depot. Been using it on a 10 speed chain for around 6 mo.Lube every 50 mi./ I always run a rag over the chain after every ride. No issues.

  16. #16
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    I've been using Finish Line (Wet conditions) for the last year and really like it. I usually lube before every ride, but if I don't--it's fine.

    I usually get it at Performance.
    Friends don't let friends ride e-"bikes" on dirt.

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  17. #17
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    I've been using this stuff for a while and really like it: Dumonde Tech Lite.

    And a 2nd review: 2nd Review.

  18. #18
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    check out GNAR Lube...

    Gnar Lube | IF IT SQUEEKS LUBE IT, IF IT ROLLS RIDE IT! - gnarlube.com

    and check their media section for the proper way to apply - you won't be disappointed...

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by GMoney View Post
    check out GNAR Lube...

    Gnar Lube | IF IT SQUEEKS LUBE IT, IF IT ROLLS RIDE IT! - gnarlube.com

    and check their media section for the proper way to apply - you won't be disappointed...
    Never heard of that one. But after checking out thier site it looks more like a hyped up name. Looks like there is more interest in putting their logo on a clothing line than spending money on product testing. Come up with a lube and market it as flashy as possible and it will sell to the "in" crowd. No thanks! I will stick to tested and proven products.
    Quote Originally Posted by targnik View Post
    So I shoot off all full of bravado, hit this wee booter - grabbing some air, then I land - leading into a greasy rut.

  20. #20
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    ProLink gold

  21. #21
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    ProLink Gold here, good stuff.

    Best, John

  22. #22
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    I've used A.T.B. Red (Absolutely The Best) for the past year at the rec of a trusted wrench. It works fairly well, though I do need to reapply every other ride . . . however, it does seem to attract a fair bit of dirt. I'm going to try something else when this bottle runs out. I have a free sample of Chain-L and a new chain that needs to get put on the bike.

  23. #23
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    A buddy turned me onto White Lightning. Stuff works great and keeps the chain pretty clean. $8 at my LBS.

  24. #24
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    I prefer to use rock n roll extreme or prolink gold. I'll just buy whichever one I can find cheaper, which has been prolink lately.

  25. #25
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    What do you guys think of Pedro's Ice Wax? I think the old formula (I think they've changed it from like 4-5 years ago) was better. This stuff seems to burn off in only one ride (like 6-10 miles).

  26. #26
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    I have tried many things for cleaning and then lubing.

    For cleaning warm water, palmolive and a plastic brush work ok. WD 40 works a bit better although messy. Chain removed and submerged in gasoline works best.

    For lube I have tried everything from 3n1, fish oil, Tri-Flow, and several of the wax lubes listed above. All of which can work (waxes seem to work best as they do not fling off as much).

    My current method is clean chain in gasoline (removed from bike). Hang chain up and spray (saturate) with Maxima Chain Guard (chain and cable lube aimed at the motorcycle market) let drip dry at least overnight.

    I clean and re lube at least once a month if not every week.

    Regardless of method or product keep that chain well lubed.
    Last edited by ASI CA; 01-10-2012 at 09:13 PM.
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by fongster View Post
    What do you guys think of Pedro's Ice Wax? I think the old formula (I think they've changed it from like 4-5 years ago) was better. This stuff seems to burn off in only one ride (like 6-10 miles).
    Yeah any of the wax based lubes Pedro's IceWax, White Lightening and others work great for keeping the chain clean. But as far as actually lubing, the lube wears off really quick. You end up with a nice clean drivetrain that wears out twice as fast. If you are rich and can afford to replace chain and cassette frequently then by all means wax based is the ticket.
    Quote Originally Posted by targnik View Post
    So I shoot off all full of bravado, hit this wee booter - grabbing some air, then I land - leading into a greasy rut.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Yeah any of the wax based lubes Pedro's IceWax, White Lightening and others work great for keeping the chain clean. But as far as actually lubing, the lube wears off really quick. You end up with a nice clean drivetrain that wears out twice as fast. If you are rich and can afford to replace chain and cassette frequently then by all means wax based is the ticket.
    x2

    Finish Line has been good to me since I stopped messing with wax lubes. No mid-ride dryness. Basically, good performance, not much thinking about it.
    Bicycling is politics by other means.

  29. #29
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    Got some ProLink Gold and tried it out on a 17 miler today. Chain is still lubed up well with no squeaks and didn't seem to attract dirt--the latter is weird to me being a "wet" lube. Good stuff.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Yeah any of the wax based lubes Pedro's IceWax, White Lightening and others work great for keeping the chain clean. But as far as actually lubing, the lube wears off really quick. You end up with a nice clean drivetrain that wears out twice as fast. If you are rich and can afford to replace chain and cassette frequently then by all means wax based is the ticket.
    Wears out twice as fast. Opinion? Empirical evidence?

  31. #31
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    tri -flow ragged off then buried with RR,WL or FL dried overnight bombproof mix....

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmxpimp View Post
    tri -flow ragged off then buried with RR,WL or FL dried overnight bombproof mix....
    Ok I give up what is "RR", "WL" and "FL" ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Yeah any of the wax based lubes Pedro's IceWax, White Lightening and others work great for keeping the chain clean. But as far as actually lubing, the lube wears off really quick. You end up with a nice clean drivetrain that wears out twice as fast. If you are rich and can afford to replace chain and cassette frequently then by all means wax based is the ticket.
    I gave up on Pedro's Ice Wax... junk, doesn't last even a 10 mile ride if you have steep climbs. I've gone to just using chainsaw chain lube on mine, every ride. Apply, ride around the driveway 5 minutes constant pedaling, then wipe off the excess, then go ride.

  34. #34
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    I've had bad luck with wax based lubes too. They don't last long enough for me. Look up sheldon browns website to get the scoop on lube.

  35. #35
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    Chain saw lube

    Quote; I've gone to just using chainsaw chain lube

    I'm with you on that. No problems

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheOrangutan View Post
    Anyone tired making lube themselves?

    I use Rock n Roll Gold at the moment, but have just bought some 'wax and grease remover' (similar to shellite) which is a petroleum distillate (like listed on the label of RnR) and plan on disolving some parrafin and beeswax into it.
    Apparently using straight parrafin ends up with the wax just flaking off once the solvent has evaporated.
    Have you ever seen a waterproofing product, for use on leather, called Sno-Seal? It is a very soft wax dissolved in a solvent, and maybe some oil. You put it on leather, and it soaks in, and when the solvent dries, the leather is perfectly waterproof, but the wax isn't flaky. I think the wax is beeswax... Anyway, mixing some sno-seal with some more solvent would give you a chain lube that would end up being easy to apply but dries mighty sticky.

    I tried dry lube, but my chain got really rusty after it got wet. Not having any chain lube or even motor oil, I mixed automatic transmission fluid with charcoal lighter fluid to lube the chain. No idea if that is a great idea or a terrible one. The chain sounds fine. I expect that dirt will stick to it.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by agoura_biker View Post
    I've used Rock n Roll ( a different version), it was good. But not so good I kept using it. I used Prolink for many years and liked it, too. I think it was pretty similar to Rock n Roll but cheaper and more readily available. But recently I discovered Squirt. I read lots of great reviews about it here on mtbr. I was a bit skeptical, but gave it a try. It is great! Doesn't attract any dirt - my chain is cleaner than ever. It lasts for several rides, longer than the other lubes I've used. I highly, highly recommend it.
    +1 on Squirt.

    I used to use Prolink and I like it for local rides, but on 100 mile or 6-12 hour races it just stops working, especially if there are water crossings. As long as you are re-lubing every 50 miles or after water, it's the bomb. But the sound Prolink makes in the last hour of a 6 hour race after 3 or 4 water crossings is terrible. Also I start getting some chain suck.

    Now on the mountain bike I use Squirt. Found it's lasting me > 100 miles and keeps the chain cleaner then Prolink. It's more expensive and does end up depositing waxy junk on the chain rings and jockey wheels, but that stuff easily wipes off. I also have no more chain suck at the end of a long race. It also loves dusty conditions. The dust just doesn't stick to the chain at all.

    On the road bike, Prolink is still the bomb and Squirt just seems to like to collect road grime. Weird, since it almost repels dust.

    My disclaimer is that I haven't tried the "Xtreme" Prolink on the mountain bike, and I will this coming up season. If the "Xtreme" Prolink can last for a 100 mile race with water crossings, it will be my go to lube.

    -Tom

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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by DWill View Post
    Ok I give up what is "RR", "WL" and "FL" ?
    RR=Rock & Roll
    WL= White Lightening
    FL= Finish Line
    Quote Originally Posted by targnik View Post
    So I shoot off all full of bravado, hit this wee booter - grabbing some air, then I land - leading into a greasy rut.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhxChem View Post
    Wears out twice as fast. Opinion? Empirical evidence?
    I guess I need to re-word that for all the lab technician's out there.
    Wax based lubes wear out parts "faster" due to the lube wearing off "faster".
    Quote Originally Posted by targnik View Post
    So I shoot off all full of bravado, hit this wee booter - grabbing some air, then I land - leading into a greasy rut.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bbbrad View Post
    +1. I recommended Squirt earlier! Since wax lubes have been getting negative reviews in recent posts, I'll add that I tried Pedro's Ice Wax and White Lightening and agree with all the negative comments about them. Thought I was done with wax-based lubes and have been using Prolink the past few years. But after my supply ran out and I couldn't find it in my LBS, I tried Boeshield, which really didn't last well for me at all. So after reading many, many glowing testimonials about Squirt, I decided to give it a try. It is also wax-based, but a whole different beast compared to the others. It goes on thick, works into your chain as you spin the cranks, and then lasts really, really well - at least under dry conditions. (We haven't had any rain to speak of in So Cal since I started using it, so I can't comment on wet conditions.) Unlike every other lube I've ever used, including Prolink, it lasts really well - for 3 or 4 rides at least (50-60 miles). There's absolutely no build up on the chain or derailleur pulleys. It's clean, quiet, and lasts a long time - a really great lube!

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by agoura_biker View Post
    +1. I recommended Squirt earlier! Since wax lubes have been getting negative reviews in recent posts, I'll add that I tried Pedro's Ice Wax and White Lightening and agree with all the negative comments about them. Thought I was done with wax-based lubes and have been using Prolink the past few years. But after my supply ran out and I couldn't find it in my LBS, I tried Boeshield, which really didn't last well for me at all. So after reading many, many glowing testimonials about Squirt, I decided to give it a try. It is also wax-based, but a whole different beast compared to the others. It goes on thick, works into your chain as you spin the cranks, and then lasts really, really well - at least under dry conditions. (We haven't had any rain to speak of in So Cal since I started using it, so I can't comment on wet conditions.) Unlike every other lube I've ever used, including Prolink, it lasts really well - for 3 or 4 rides at least (50-60 miles). There's absolutely no build up on the chain or derailleur pulleys. It's clean, quiet, and lasts a long time - a really great lube!
    Well from your review it sounds like the ideal lube.
    Where can I buy it in San Diego?
    Quote Originally Posted by targnik View Post
    So I shoot off all full of bravado, hit this wee booter - grabbing some air, then I land - leading into a greasy rut.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjedoaks View Post
    Quote; I've gone to just using chainsaw chain lube

    I'm with you on that. No problems
    I have a fair amount of experience with chain saws (Stilhl 036, 044, 026) among others.

    I have replaced the Stihl Bar oil with Castrol Auto Transmission Fluid it seems and smells the same and is cheaper.

    As for use on bike chains I would say why not.
    Forks are for eating, Lefty's are for racing,

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Well from your review it sounds like the ideal lube.
    Where can I buy it in San Diego?
    I don't know the San Diego bike stores. None of my local stores carried it, which is part of the reason it took me a while to try it out. I bought mine online - from Price Point and Jenson.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by agoura_biker View Post
    I don't know the San Diego bike stores. None of my local stores carried it, which is part of the reason it took me a while to try it out. I bought mine online - from Price Point and Jenson.
    Price Point or Jensen it is, thanks!
    Quote Originally Posted by targnik View Post
    So I shoot off all full of bravado, hit this wee booter - grabbing some air, then I land - leading into a greasy rut.

  46. #46
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    Been using White Lightning Clean Ride for a couple of years without any issues mentioned(rarely hit that much water and rides typically under 20mile), thought I might be missing something so picked up a bottle of Progold Extreme at REI the other night. Cleaned the chain then applied 3X, initial impressions were a very messy application and doesn't really dry out to any degree not that I was expecting a wax. Took for a ride today, at the end of a shortish 4-5 mile lunch loop with 2 pretty good downhill dirt flinging runs(SS GT Peace 29er) my chain was 2 things I've not experienced in awhile; 1) dirty, and 2) cracking and popping from all the crap that collected.

    I'll give it one more try but not worth it in my book especially $11 for small bottle.
    Last edited by socal_jack; 01-12-2012 at 02:44 PM.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by agoura_biker View Post
    There's absolutely no build up on the chain or derailleur pulleys. It's clean, quiet, and lasts a long time - a really great lube!
    Really? I'm finding the opposite. My jockey wheels get gummed up with the wax build up. Now it's real easy clean up, as I just run a towel over them, but I was surprised by how much build up there was.

    -Tom

  48. #48
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    Another vote for squirt. I had tried lots of lubes to many to list and i could not get more than 30 or 40 miles before needing to re lube so I gave squirt a try and was surprised how long it lasted as It went easily for a 100 or more miles without having to re lube. It does build up on chainrings and jockey wheels but wipes off easily and is a trade I am willing to make for the longevity.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by trhoppe View Post
    Really? I'm finding the opposite. My jockey wheels get gummed up with the wax build up. Now it's real easy clean up, as I just run a towel over them, but I was surprised by how much build up there was.

    -Tom
    Interesting. Well, I guess it's a case of YMMV! When I was using Prolink Pro Gold, there was always a layer of goop on the jockey wheels. Now, with Squirt, there is absolutely nothing there. Same with the chain; with Prolink my rag would get a lot of oily dirt off the chain, now with Squirt it is just dry dust.

    I wonder if it has to do with how it is applied? I put it on after a ride, spin the cranks until it is worked into the chain well (though you can still see it on the chain), and then let it dry. By the time I ride next, everything is dried and you can't see it on the chain.

  50. #50
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    I have been using white lighting for several years now. Yes the chain looks clean but then I clean it after every ride and relube it. Chain life?I replace my chain every 1.5 years on average based on time/mileage.They never appear to be worn out and I am still on a 4 year old cassette.We need Bobistheoilguy.com to help out here

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by agoura_biker View Post
    Interesting. Well, I guess it's a case of YMMV! When I was using Prolink Pro Gold, there was always a layer of goop on the jockey wheels. Now, with Squirt, there is absolutely nothing there. Same with the chain; with Prolink my rag would get a lot of oily dirt off the chain, now with Squirt it is just dry dust.

    I wonder if it has to do with how it is applied? I put it on after a ride, spin the cranks until it is worked into the chain well (though you can still see it on the chain), and then let it dry. By the time I ride next, everything is dried and you can't see it on the chain.
    Agreed with the ProLink layer of goop for sure!

    Wonder if I'm applying too much Squirt...

  52. #52
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    +1 for Prolink gold. Great stuff for all but the nastiest conditions

    For wet/muddy rides use Pedro's synlube

  53. #53
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    I used Finish Line Dry Lube on my Hardtail for about 1000 miles and found that the drivetrain was very clean after each ride, but needed to re-lube every 15-20 miles. The drivetrain is now worn down to the point of full replacement, but I am riding it out. So, dry lubes may not be the best for drivetrain longevity, or lube longevity, but are very clean. I recently tried Giant Liquid Silk wet lube for one ride and found that the drivetrain seemed very slightly smoother, but was filthy/black after a 10 mile dry, dusty ride.

  54. #54
    007
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    I recently switched to Chain-L to try out and the first application was great. Note that it goes on messy and after the first ride, its gonna be a disaster. But a quick wipe with a dry rag and its good to go. First application lasted about 60 miles. Not kidding.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  55. #55
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    Chain-L works well. Another plus, is once a bud or other begs for some lube at the trail head, that will be the last time. It's messy and works best applied the night before.
    I've since moved on to chain saw chain/bar lube / 1600 mi SLX chain. My chain checker reads border line replace. Not bad for 5 bucks a quart.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjedoaks View Post
    Chain-L works well. Another plus, is once a bud or other begs for some lube at the trail head, that will be the last time. It's messy and works best applied the night before.
    I've since moved on to chain saw chain/bar lube / 1600 mi SLX chain. My chain checker reads border line replace. Not bad for 5 bucks a quart.
    Not bad at all! Is the viscosity like Chain-L? For all I know, Chain-L is just repackaged chainsaw lube.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  57. #57
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    It's not as thick and stringy as Chain-L. No doubt Chain-L is a more advanced lube, but I'm not convinced its needed for this climate. If you bought the small bottle of CL and lube each pin, that is going to last a while if you are a weekender.
    The cheap stuff has also worked well with lubing every 40 mi. w/little drivetrain wear. Give it a try.

  58. #58
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    Dumonde Tech for sure! I guess none of you guys have tried it out yet but after trying different ones for 20+ years I'm hooked on this stuff. It kinda smells like blue cheese too.

    BICYCLE PRODUCTS « Dumonde Tech | Bicycle Chain Lube | Motorcycle Oil | Bike Lube | Chain Lubricant| Bicycle | Motorsports Oil | Racing Oil | Grease


  59. #59
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    I like the White Lightning Clean Ride because it really goes on light, and cleans the chain too. Does not last as long as some thicker brands though...

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by trmn8er View Post
    I like the White Lightning Clean Ride because it really goes on light, and cleans the chain too. Does not last as long as some thicker brands though...
    That's been my problem thus far . . . I was using ATB and while it worked okay, it was gone within a single ride.

    Thus far, aside from the mess of application, the Chain-L is working well.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by GMoney View Post
    check out GNAR Lube...

    Gnar Lube | IF IT SQUEEKS LUBE IT, IF IT ROLLS RIDE IT! - gnarlube.com

    and check their media section for the proper way to apply - you won't be disappointed...
    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE, View Post
    Never heard of that one. But after checking out thier site it looks more like a hyped up name. Looks like there is more interest in putting their logo on a clothing line than spending money on product testing. Come up with a lube and market it as flashy as possible and it will sell to the "in" crowd. No thanks! I will stick to tested and proven products.
    FWIW , I just did a full review of the GNAR LUBE products on my site HERE I didn't post any of their stock marketing in there because I felt the same way AT FIRST.

    That being said the stuff is incredible. I even put some in the hands of my friend that works at Intense Cycles and use to own his own bicycle mechanic shop ..... He gave it glowing reviews.

    I personally have tried Squirt (Found it doesn't handle the sandy washs/roads), Finish Line( works - nothing stellar) White lightning and a few of the others mentioned here. I have not tried the RnR products or the Chain L I keep reading about. That being said I am personally using GNAR LUBE based on the results I have seen. They also sent me some of their research documents (I didnt use them in the review) that shows the wear and breakdown and their product tested durable enough to use on a drilling rig. Give it a try, there is nothing wrong with gratuitous marketing if it works ....
    Soil Taste Tester

  62. #62
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    Rock n Roll gold works great for me.

  63. #63
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    I have been using air-tool oil for the past 4 months now and it works great, lasts a long time, doesn't leave a residue and works in my riding conditions in the mountains in California dry with river crossings and sometimes snow

  64. #64
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    I wanted to bump this thread up and get the discussion going again. I'm still searching for something that works in this moondust climate we have right now.

    I REALLY like Chain-L . . . but the application is a PITA and the mess really overshadows any benefit it may have.

    I'm in the middle of an experiment and right now, the leader is Gnar Lube . . . yes, its gimmicky with the scents, etc. but as compared to Pro-Link, it works better and lasts longer.

    With Pro-Link, my chain as DRY within 10 miles yesterday at the Cheese . . . I got home, cleaned up and relubed with Gnar Lube. Today I went 24 miles on an equally dry and dusty trail (WR-Backbone) and the chain was still quiet at the end of the ride, without any mess.

    Obviously not conclusive results, but honestly, so far Gnar Lube is working the best for me.

    What about you?
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  65. #65
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    I have been using Chain-L since last Thanksgiving. I apply it literally one drop on each link, let it sit for a few minutes, and then wrap a rag around the chain and crank it around a few times. Used this way, it is one of the cleanest running lubes I have ever used. My cassette has almost no dirt or grease, my derailleurs are pretty clean (save for a VERY minimal buildup on the jockey wheels) and I only get a little reside on the outside of the inner link plates, and a little on the inside of all the link plates, but it is much less than just about anything else I have ever used this side of White Lightning. And I have used several including Dumonde Tech, Pro-Link, White Lightning, TriFlow, Rock-N-Roll, and tons of others. Supposedly a bottle will lube about a dozen chains, but I have lubed at least that many, and still have over half the bottle left.

    Will definitely purchase Chain-L again.

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Kuhl View Post
    ProLink Gold here, good stuff.

    Best, John
    Yep, it's the best. It will actually clean a dirty chain.

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mountain Cycle Shawn View Post
    Yep, it's the best. It will actually clean a dirty chain.
    It does do a good job cleaning for sure . . . but it doesn't last for ****.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  68. #68
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    I recently received a sample of purple extreme. I put it on a new chain. I have been getting roughly 30-40 miles per application. I ride in the Los Angeles area. I read reviews about it online and they aren't all that great but I am going to purchase some for myself. I even used it on my wife's bike that has an older drive train and she liked it is well.
    Yeti SB95C
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  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by OO7 View Post
    It does do a good job cleaning for sure . . . but it doesn't last for ****.
    Just have to put it on every ride.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by spunkmtb View Post
    I recently received a sample of purple extreme...
    I've been using it for several years now (Santa Monica Mtns. is my local), and I like it. I am a bit of a nut when it comes to keeping my drive train clean though.

    I know they claim 100's (?) of miles between applications, and that deep sea drilling uses it, etc... Well, I doubt both of those claims, but I do like it. Its the (for me) right viscosity, has a very light petroleum base, "dry's" but not completely (yes, do not apply it and then go riding, give it over-night if you can, but really don't have to wait that long).

    After each ride I back pedal the chain through my Park blue chain brush, and then through a shop rag. About every 30 - 40 mi (two to three rides?) I apply just the smallest amount to each link. After about 80 - 100 mi I pull the chain, soak in citrus based cleaner, blow clean / dry with compressed air, and then start fresh.

    Again, the viscosity is good for me, for the dry conditions we typically have her year 'round in SoCal. Not TriFlow thick, and not White Lighting waxy / gooey.

    Just my 2c.
    .
    "...when your ride is nearly over, it seems to have lasted but an instant..."


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  71. #71
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    I'm in New Mexico, so similarly dry conditions. I use the White Lightning Clean Ride because its easiest to find here. But my fave has been the Prolink Gold. Last time I couldn't find it at my LBS and they had a two for one sale on the White Lightning, so I'm using that until it runs out...

  72. #72
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    +1 I used to bust 1-2 chains a year using wet lubes (tried a bunch of brands) which would take out the rear derailleur about half the time. Now chains last multi-years with White Lightning. I probably clean every 3rd or 4th ride on geared bike like I did with wet lubes. Look new after cleaning.

    On my SS I run quite a bit longer before cleaning, just keep dumping the WL on it in between(roughly 2 1/2 yrs on same chain right now, 2-3 rides a week), but there's no jockey wheels/shifters etc to gum up.

    Quote Originally Posted by MitchD View Post
    I have been using white lighting for several years now. Yes the chain looks clean but then I clean it after every ride and relube it. Chain life?I replace my chain every 1.5 years on average based on time/mileage.They never appear to be worn out and I am still on a 4 year old cassette.We need Bobistheoilguy.com to help out here

  73. #73
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    Well im just getting back on a bike after 10 years and its my first time trying dry lubes. Always used oil back then.
    I have been testing RZ-50 and while I havent hit the dirt yet it has been holding up without so much as a squeak after about 35 miles in the city. This was by far the best dry lube for my r/c cars as it went on clear, can be used to clean, and never attracted dirt. I will keep you updated.

    Also have PB blaster dry lube w/ teflon to try next ( anyone try this yet?)

    Both can be purchased at home depot.

  74. #74
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    Since this thread was brought back to life, I'll give my 2 cents. I'm in the motorcycle industry and have always been told (from trustworthy sources ) that wax based products were a big no-no. The things we look for are proprietary formulas that adhere to metal and release lubrication with heat (the Allison products work great on our race bikes). Yes, a bicycle chain doesn't heat up as much as a race motorcycle chain but is similar on a much smaller scale.

    I'm sure there are tons of decent choices for our dry weather but I've religiously used rock n roll gold lube for years with zero problems. I would never use the extreme version or any other wax based lubes made for rain, mud, sludge, snow, etc. They are meant to repel water and would most likely attract fine dry dirt like crazy. Different conditions require different applications, and haven't found one product that works for all conditions.

    With the rocknroll gold, all I do is wipe off my chain good with a rag and generously apply the gold lube for a few seconds while spinning the cranks by hand in reverse. I'll then spin the cranks backwards for about 10-15 seconds without applying any more lube, let it sit for a few minutes, and wipe off as much as I can. No squeaks, hang ups, or grittiness. I typically do this right before my rides and don't bother repeating the process untill I'm prepping for my next ride. Ive been getting maximum life out of my drive train by doing this.

  75. #75
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    Im a fan of ProLink

  76. #76
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    I've used almost all the lubes discussed here, other than the Chain-L and Gnar Lube -- both of which sound worthy of checking out after I run out of the one go-to lube I've found to be the cleanest and most long-lasting in dry conditions: Pro Link Gold.

    I use the drench, wipe, dry method with the stuff, and then wipe off the chain the next morning or ride, before heading out. I think I recall this is the method they suggest and it's been working for me!

  77. #77
    007
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    I can now saw that in my experience, Gnar Lube has outperformed ProLink Gold. With the PLG, I would get ONE ride (or about 15-20 miles) per application (done same as EBasil --> drench, wipe, dry, wipe).

    One application of Gnar Lube ridden on the same trails as above has now lasted about 40 miles, doubling PLG's life span. In between rides I did give a wipe with a clean rag to get the dust off, but I did not reapply and at the end of the second ride things were still quiet.

    The one thing I will say is that the PLG DOES excel at cleaning . . something I don't think the GL does as well with, however, as far as longevity is concerned, in this rider's experience the winner is the Gnar Lube.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  78. #78
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    White Lightning is great.

  79. #79
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    Hard to find a lube that doesn't do a decent job at keeping your chain lubed and quiet and running long. Hard to find that balance of cost, cleanliness, ease of application, and longevity.

    I absolutely loved how clean ProLink Gold was, but it washed off really easily and only lasted about 20-30 miles. Started to carry my bottle around just to reapply it.

    I've tried a number of other lubes after that, including R&R, and they are all just so messy, but they do last longer.

    Right now, I'm liking Pedro's lubes like IceWax. They're messy, and last a decent time, resist wash off well, but most importantly, they're SUPER cheap on HuckNRoll. F paying $5 or more for a 4 oz bottle. I think I have enough IceWax to last 2 years for less than $5. I went through 3 bottles of ProLink in under a year. I guess I'm just cheap... I remember using VVL-800 (the stuff I used at work) since it was free and my drivetrain was really black from using that, but it worked for 10k+ miles on my commuter!

    I will keep my eye out for deals on Dumonde Tech lube though, as that stuff seems to be the latest and greatest.
    Last edited by Varaxis; 10-10-2012 at 05:20 PM.

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