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Thread: Any surfers?

  1. #1
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    Any surfers?

    Yo this is Boise, Idaho calling and I heard you got some macking double (triple?) overhead south swell on Tuesday and Big Wednesday?

    Sound of Tires on Dirt - Sole Music; shared with friends - Soul Music.

  2. #2
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    Yep until today. Got blown out today in Laguna...major winds.

    Dean

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    I have a brother and lotsa friends down there that surf. I was lookin at surfline photos and see the outside sets were breaking beyond the HB pier.

    You probably surfed that reef in Laguan forgot the name, oh Brooks Street?. was it macking?

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    I actually did a real early dawn patrol yesterday morning before work and Cottons was REAL fun!

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    it was only chest high on most waves a few sets over the head but nothing that Giant .....biggest set maybe had a 11or 12 foot face
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

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    There are some and once particularly INSANE shot on surfline. It is a super heavy left barrell. caption says it's south OC and I suspect it is that beachbreak in laguna with that cove and lone house on top but can't remember the name of the beach - usually popular with skimboarders I think

    http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/pho...m?id=8765&ad=1

    pic #2 Holy $%%@#*%^!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Udaho

    cool photos
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

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    i know that laguna spot in the photo....mums the word though. brooks does start mackin' on the outer reef on large swells, nice big lefts that freight train.

  9. #9
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    This picture was taken by Simon Stone Wednesday AM. South end of El Moro Laguna Beach. I have lived in Laguna Beach for 15 years and this spot rarely breaks like this. Mostly just the neighborhood kids down there riding 2-3 footers. Not any kind of serect break, you can see it from PCH.
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  10. #10
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    Me no like. Great photos but that stuff scares the crap out of me. Ever since I was in high school and went out on a day when I had no business in the water, anything above mid-calf freaks me out.
    I thought of that while riding my bicycle. ~ Albert Einstein on the theory of relativity

  11. #11
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    Awesome photo, that looks fun! El Morro is good for riding and (sometimes) surfing at Crystal Cove
    Sound of Tires on Dirt - Sole Music; shared with friends - Soul Music.

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    Yessir........but I keep my longboard out of the water when it gets that big......

    Magic number is 3-5 foot for me.......going surf tomorrow AM and then a mtb ride after!!!

    Ive been out a few times when it was big (not that big, maybe 10 footers) and scared the crap out of me.

  13. #13
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    Tasty! Wind and swell.
    "A fine beer may be judged with only one sip, but it's better to be thoroughly sure."

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    i've surfed since 6th grade! I think the deal with big waves is you absolutely cannot let big water intimidate you. Not paddling out, not stuck inside, not even if a big set is about to catch you inside, relaxation is key in 10 foot so cal surf or 40 foot mavericks.

    Also, everything happens a lot faster and it more intense in big surf - you have to paddle hard and totally commit on the takeoff is the nature of it.

    Pretty knowledgeable for living up in freaking spudville eh? :-)
    Sound of Tires on Dirt - Sole Music; shared with friends - Soul Music.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by dstepper
    This picture was taken by Simon Stone Wednesday AM. South end of El Moro Laguna Beach. I have lived in Laguna Beach for 15 years and this spot rarely breaks like this. Mostly just the neighborhood kids down there riding 2-3 footers. Not any kind of serect break, you can see it from PCH.
    got to love a sand bottom...really thick too
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

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    Quote Originally Posted by dstepper
    This picture was taken by Simon Stone Wednesday AM. South end of El Moro Laguna Beach. I have lived in Laguna Beach for 15 years and this spot rarely breaks like this. Mostly just the neighborhood kids down there riding 2-3 footers. Not any kind of serect break, you can see it from PCH.
    Just trying to keep it on the DL steppie, thus the 'secret spot' dub. People who didnt know it was off PCH in Laguna now know...

  17. #17
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    Went at HB pier a couple of days definite a decent bump. Water still too frigging cold.
    Video of El Moro/CrystalCove. It rarely breaks this good. I drive by it 3-4 times a week.


    http://www.dailypilot.com/articles/2...3445628999.txt

  18. #18
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    here is the Ranch......(Drakes)

    I think south got it bigger then us
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    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

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