Results 1 to 39 of 39
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,123

    Rockshox Reverb dropper post on Carbon Stumpjumper (internal guide)

    Has anyone done it?

    Stupid idea. I should have checked. Apparently all the shops are telling me I can't run the thicker hydraulic line thru the internal cabling hole.

    Now I am stuck with a brand new reverb and no dropper post. Online store charges 15% restocking so returning doesn't make any sense.

    Other than just zip-tie the hydraulic line to the bike frame, any other idea that make the cable routing cleaner?

  2. #2
    YESBRO!!!
    Reputation: datenschwanz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    1,163
    Have you considered the Command Post?

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    336
    What size reverb do you have? I just picked up a 125 mm command post. I'm considering trading someone for a 100 mm adjustable seatpost..covering the cost difference obviously.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bigpete61's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    171
    Just replace the hydraulic line. It's a pretty simple fix
    Get out there and ride!

  5. #5
    Medium?
    Reputation: Fast Eddy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    6,723
    Never mind. Internal hole.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,123
    Quote Originally Posted by bigpete61 View Post
    Just replace the hydraulic line. It's a pretty simple fix
    replacing the hydraulic line is not the problem, the issue is that "hydraulic lines are usually thicker than wire cable lines and will not fit in your specialized frame" quoted from a couple bike mechanics from different shops.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    3,123
    Quote Originally Posted by HrznRider View Post
    What size reverb do you have? I just picked up a 125 mm command post. I'm considering trading someone for a 100 mm adjustable seatpost..covering the cost difference obviously.
    I also got the 125 version in 30.9. If anyone is interested in trading theirs for this unit, please feel free to PM me. Specialized command post excluded as I read too many bad things about it.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    336
    Amazingly my joplin 3 has been a champ but only has 75 mm travel,

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: redhawk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    326
    Reverb is soooo sweet. Comin' off a Command Post and never goin' back!

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mzorich's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    779
    Quote Originally Posted by Loll View Post
    Has anyone done it?

    Stupid idea. I should have checked. Apparently all the shops are telling me I can't run the thicker hydraulic line thru the internal cabling hole.

    Now I am stuck with a brand new reverb and no dropper post. Online store charges 15% restocking so returning doesn't make any sense.

    Other than just zip-tie the hydraulic line to the bike frame, any other idea that make the cable routing cleaner?
    you can get it through it is just really really hard and takes some time. if not the easier path to take is reline it with the jag wire hydro cable. i know it will fit. some people had this same issue with the new stumpy evo which is the bike i have and they said the jag wire hydro cable fixed the problem. check the specialized forum i know this issue has been cover a few times or just post the same thread and can get a few solutions.

    if you go the path of getting a new post i ride the blacklite command post on my evo carbon and have nothing bad to say about it. i beat it up along with my bike and have never had one issue with it.

  11. #11
    J-Flo
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    1,383
    Just use a drill to make the hole bigger, silly.

    ;-)

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mzorich's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    779
    Quote Originally Posted by Jfloren View Post
    Just use a drill to make the hole bigger, silly.

    ;-)
    its on a carbon bike and thats a very bad idea

  13. #13
    J-Flo
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    1,383

    Of course not

    Quote Originally Posted by mzorich View Post
    its on a carbon bike and thats a very bad idea
    Sorry, I thought it would be obvious that I was joking. That's why I put the little ;-)

    Maybe this makes it more clear.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mzorich's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    779
    Quote Originally Posted by Jfloren View Post
    Sorry, I thought it would be obvious that I was joking. That's why I put the little ;-)

    Maybe this makes it more clear.
    Yeah i am not good at internet joking clearly. And sometimes people are not to bright on here cuz i bet you someone has drilled a carbon frame

  15. #15
    J-Flo
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    1,383
    Perhaps a better question is why use a dropper post on a carbon frame Stumpy? My son just got a 2012 Stumpjumper Carbon Comp 29er Hardtail. It uses a smaller seatpost (27.2mm) so can't use a dropper post anyhow until someone makes one in that diameter. But he has abandoned the dropper seatpost idea because of the weight (and because I don't think any other racers use it).

    For me, a more casual rider, the dropper seatpost is a must. I use the Command Post Blacklite on my bike and am quite happy with it. Haven't tried the Reverb, but don't see a reason to do so. If you really want to use the internal cable routing, why not try a Command Post? I would be cautious about using a different hydraulic hose than the one that came with the Reverb -- not only will you have to bleed it and make sure the fitting connections are precise, a real hassle, but the smaller internal diameter of the replacement hose might create performance issues. If you are wedded to the Reverb, my guess is that you probably will need to forget about using the internal routing.

  16. #16
    rho
    rho is offline
    Life is strange
    Reputation: rho's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,881
    edit:
    Just re-read the OP's first post... if the hydro line can't make it inside, the frame outside might be the only option.

    Zip ties and tape ftw?

  17. #17
    Urban Ninja
    Reputation: jeng's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    2,369
    Quote Originally Posted by Loll View Post
    Specialized command post excluded as I read too many bad things about it.
    The older command post was not so great. I have two "Blacklight" posts that I've but about 3,000 (between the two) hard dirt miles on with NO issues. Just sayin

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mzorich's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    779
    Quote Originally Posted by jeng View Post
    The older command post was not so great. I have two "Blacklight" posts that I've but about 3,000 (between the two) hard dirt miles on with NO issues. Just sayin
    i second that. i never hear people having problems with the blacklites. i love mine

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: JefedelosJefes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    361
    Quote Originally Posted by mzorich View Post
    its on a carbon bike and thats a very bad idea
    It's fine. Take a dremel and make the hole larger... seriously. How do you think they got the hole in there in the first place?

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: mzorich's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    779
    Quote Originally Posted by JefedelosJefes View Post
    It's fine. Take a dremel and make the hole larger... seriously. How do you think they got the hole in there in the first place?
    molds and if the frame were to ever crack anywhere or need to be warranted and they saw that it would be void instantly. all he needs to do is get a new cable. its an easy fix and doesnt mean he needs to drill out a very expensive frame

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    336
    My joplin is giving me a headache right now but my command post is working like a champ. Hmmm, I might be giving up on the whole hydraulic post thing and sticking with blacklites.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    13
    Has anyone identified a hyraulic hose for a Reverb that will fit the Specialized Internal Routing?
    My bike is the2013 Stumjumper FSR Expery Carbon and I've tried the Jagwire Hyflow Cable but could not get that through either.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    35
    Here is mine with a Reverb Stealth. In the top tube, down the down tube, up the seat tube. just file the hole in the frame. I've done it to multiple frames with no issues.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Rockshox Reverb dropper post on Carbon Stumpjumper (internal guide)-photo.jpg  


  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    13

    Rockshox Reverb dropper post on Carbon Stumpjumper (internal guide)

    Thanks mate.. Just a little nervous about filing a brand new carbon frame

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mt. Tam Haze's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    191
    You can all get adhesive c clips made by jagwire, thats how i set my SJ evo up.

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    13
    Quote Originally Posted by gef73 View Post
    Here is mine with a Reverb Stealth. In the top tube, down the down tube, up the seat tube. just file the hole in the frame. I've done it to multiple frames with no issues.
    Hi Mate,
    I've decided I'm gonna file the internal routing opening to fit the reverb.
    Any hints/tips on how you have done it on your frame?

    Regards,
    Brendan

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Posts
    205
    OK, I just picked up a 13' SJ FSR EVO 29er Frame and a Reverb Stealth - can someone please help a brother out and tell me how to fit the hydro cable thru the frame.

    Looking down the top tube from the open headset, the internal carbon routing is a few inches log and impossible to route the cable down the down tube without having the cable do a 180.

    Please help me or I will need to unload this Reverb that is still in the box.

    Thanks

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    17
    chpfly, have you had any success? I'd have to make the hose do a 180 as soon as it entered the top tube to then push it down the down tube. Is it too tight or can it be done without kinking the hose?

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    12
    Guys, I've been struggling with the Stumpjumper/Reverb issue for a while now and I've finally cracked it after upgrading to a stealth and forcing myself to find a solution.
    Short of buying a 2014 model, drilling a hole in the frame, or kinking the hose in the top tube, there is only one way I have found of doing a stealth installation.

    Firstly, you're going to need a 3 metre hydro hose as 2 metres won't quite make it.

    Assuming you've already opened up the headtube hole a little to take the reverb hose, start there (I've done this on my carbon S-Works and you're only filing a moulded in cap, not the frame itself. The guide inside opens up to more than 5mm to so it's just the entrance you're opening).
    Thread the hose out through the hole above the shock, then up and through the triangle-shaped gap in the frame made by the seat tube brace, then back under and back into the hole under the shock. This gives just enough radius so that the hose wont kink up, and still looks pretty stealth. Admittedly, you'll know it's there but I'd say it's the best option by far (certainly better than drilling a new port in the downtube).
    From there, just thread the hose back up the toptube to the headtube, then down the downtube and up the seat tube (a tent pole with a hook on and a bit of patience is useful here).
    Once you're in, connect the post, insert to the frame, take up any slack back through the frame then cut to length at the bar end and attach the reverb lever switch. Done!

    Here's a couple of pics I did to test it with a gear cable, I'll post a finished one when i'm back in the shed with a camera.

    Good luck!

    Rockshox Reverb dropper post on Carbon Stumpjumper (internal guide)-photo-1.jpgRockshox Reverb dropper post on Carbon Stumpjumper (internal guide)-photo-2.jpg

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    17
    I 'stealthed' mine mid-summer without looping it out of the frame. Been working brilliantly so the hose cant have kinked in the top-tube where it does a 180* turn. Described here New Stumpy EVO .. stealth post??

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    12
    Ah! I knew it had to be possible. Cheers.
    Looks like I'm spending some time in the shed tonight then...

  32. #32
    pvd
    pvd is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: pvd's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    3,091
    I know someone who's done it. Simple enough. Make the hole bigger.

    Here's a summary for general bikes: Drilling holes in perfectly good bike frames | Peter Verdone Designs

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    5
    So it can make the turn from the port on the ttube and go straight down the dtube? I've been told this can't be done due to internal carbonmaterial extending too far to the headtube. Was it hard to get it to turn downwards?

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    5

    Success with Command Post

    I know this thread is for Reverb Stealths, but figured I could share some stuff I learned while doing a Command Post IR. Though I can't speak to the hose diameter issue I can share a few things I learned about the routing....

    The biggest surpise is how long the entry port on the top tube acctually extends as a molded tube inside the TT. Spesh most likely did this to help direct the cable as much as possible to the exit port and minimize rattling. It's hard to tell exactly how long (because you can't see down that far) but i would guess the molded port extends until 3/4 of the way to the exit port for a standard ext routed CP. This means it can't turn around until way back in the TT. The plus side is that there is a big cavity where the TT and the ST brace Tube meet up... Lots of room to have a regular 4 mm housing do a u-turn as long as you are carful when you insert the loop and train it "up and in". Not so sure on a hydro line, tho, but if u are super careful or you can find flexy line, it could be done w/o kinking. I can only assume folks using dremmels to bore out the line cut through the port somewhere as ther is no way you could get a dremmel all the way through that port.

    You will need 2 meters of housing or brake hose (which you will cut down) and a 1700 length of cable (if not a Reverb). My CP IR post came with 1400, depite instructions saying it was 1700. FYI I did this on a Lrg so you might get away with less on smaller bikes.

    You want to pull everything though the exit port, leaving just the amount for the cockpit run on the entry side. Now time to turn it back. Remove top eyelet bolt on the rear shock and tie rear linkage so as to compress/ move shock down/out of the way. This gives you more room to see what you are doing and allow more room to feed/coach the housing. Remove fork and seat tube. Feed everthing but the last loop back through to the HT and out the bottom cup. Careful feed/train the last loop up into the square port. Besure to push up on one side of the housing and forward on the feeding end to keep bend shallow/avoid kinking. It will go in easier than you think. With the seat post off now run some separate old housing or fishing tape down the seat tube and up the down tube. Once it reached head tube, tape the housing two housings together using electrical tpe and pull the line back through/ cut the tape and discard the old housing you used to fish the real one through. Your housing is now installed and ready and you didn't need magnets/weights/feeder tubes.

    One thing I would change if I were to do it again... Thinking a good chunk of housing could be cut once the seat post was pushed down, I took the lever off and tried feeding everything back so I could cut it short, install the post and then pull it all back through. With all the turn arounds that cable doesn't like to move much. I had a real hard time pulling the length of housing back up to the cockpit. If I do this again I will just install the housing, pull it taught from the seat tube and cut it about an inch above the top of ST. As long as the cable makes the whole run (you'll need all 1700 mm) don't worry about a little extra length in ST. It will compress naturally when SP is installed. Plus it gives you some slack to take the post off, if necessary.

    I was fearful of cable bind/stretch resulting in rough/less than instant lever response on such a long run. No problems there. I lubed the cable well and it pulls smooth, and immediate. Just as good if not better than my old external CP.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Rockshox Reverb dropper post on Carbon Stumpjumper (internal guide)-evoir.jpg  

    Rockshox Reverb dropper post on Carbon Stumpjumper (internal guide)-evo-ir-detail.jpg  

    Last edited by jpaul01; 02-12-2014 at 11:05 AM. Reason: grammar

  35. #35
    Oaktown Honkey on Strava
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    2,491
    That is the best hand drawn picture ever! At first it looks kind of janky, but it really gets the idea across, I love it! Well done addition. It totally clarifies the description.

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    7
    Quote Originally Posted by gef73 View Post
    Here is mine with a Reverb Stealth. In the top tube, down the down tube, up the seat tube. just file the hole in the frame. I've done it to multiple frames with no issues.
    Hi, I own this FSR frame too and would install the Reverb Stealth 150 mm.

    Can you explain the routing you followed with the hose?
    Maybe that is the same routing suggested by jpaul01 with the red line, here above?

    Thank you in advance,

  37. #37
    fc
    fc is online now
    stoked Administrator
    Reputation: fc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 1996
    Posts
    27,792
    Hydraulic cables are indeed bigger than mechanical derailleur cables used for the command post. I would suggest using the KS Lev or the awesome new 9point8 Fall Line post internally routed ones as alternatives.
    IPA will save America

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    24
    Quote Originally Posted by jpaul01 View Post
    I know this thread is for Reverb Stealths, but figured I could share some stuff I learned while doing a Command Post IR. Though I can't speak to the hose diameter issue I can share a few things I learned about the routing....

    The biggest surpise is how long the entry port on the top tube acctually extends as a molded tube inside the TT. Spesh most likely did this to help direct the cable as much as possible to the exit port and minimize rattling. It's hard to tell exactly how long (because you can't see down that far) but i would guess the molded port extends until 3/4 of the way to the exit port for a standard ext routed CP. This means it can't turn around until way back in the TT. The plus side is that there is a big cavity where the TT and the ST brace Tube meet up... Lots of room to have a regular 4 mm housing do a u-turn as long as you are carful when you insert the loop and train it "up and in". Not so sure on a hydro line, tho, but if u are super careful or you can find flexy line, it could be done w/o kinking. I can only assume folks using dremmels to bore out the line cut through the port somewhere as ther is no way you could get a dremmel all the way through that port.

    You will need 2 meters of housing or brake hose (which you will cut down) and a 1700 length of cable (if not a Reverb). My CP IR post came with 1400, depite instructions saying it was 1700. FYI I did this on a Lrg so you might get away with less on smaller bikes.

    You want to pull everything though the exit port, leaving just the amount for the cockpit run on the entry side. Now time to turn it back. Remove top eyelet bolt on the rear shock and tie rear linkage so as to compress/ move shock down/out of the way. This gives you more room to see what you are doing and allow more room to feed/coach the housing. Remove fork and seat tube. Feed everthing but the last loop back through to the HT and out the bottom cup. Careful feed/train the last loop up into the square port. Besure to push up on one side of the housing and forward on the feeding end to keep bend shallow/avoid kinking. It will go in easier than you think. With the seat post off now run some separate old housing or fishing tape down the seat tube and up the down tube. Once it reached head tube, tape the housing two housings together using electrical tpe and pull the line back through/ cut the tape and discard the old housing you used to fish the real one through. Your housing is now installed and ready and you didn't need magnets/weights/feeder tubes.

    One thing I would change if I were to do it again... Thinking a good chunk of housing could be cut once the seat post was pushed down, I took the lever off and tried feeding everything back so I could cut it short, install the post and then pull it all back through. With all the turn arounds that cable doesn't like to move much. I had a real hard time pulling the length of housing back up to the cockpit. If I do this again I will just install the housing, pull it taught from the seat tube and cut it about an inch above the top of ST. As long as the cable makes the whole run (you'll need all 1700 mm) don't worry about a little extra length in ST. It will compress naturally when SP is installed. Plus it gives you some slack to take the post off, if necessary.

    I was fearful of cable bind/stretch resulting in rough/less than instant lever response on such a long run. No problems there. I lubed the cable well and it pulls smooth, and immediate. Just as good if not better than my old external CP.
    Bumping old threads! Using ha search function! Warning, possibly very stupid question coming- Something I just can't wrap my head around, why do you need the 180 turn in the first place why can't you continue the cable from the top tube directly in the seat tube via the smaller diameter diagonal tube OR just go right from TT to seat tube and make a 90 degree angle up to the dropper!?

    And I guess on those same lines---- on the 2014+ frames why does the cable need to leave briefly via the last BAT just to renter And head back up the ST?!
    Thanks for helping a newb sort of this mind boggled, bout to start running a dropper cable on the ladies 2014 rumor comp

Members who have read this thread: 15

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •