There is opportunity for the light companies right now as Magicshine has stumbled a bit. The batteries and chargers are defective.
Nobody knows what the real risks are so people are a bit on edge about them. I would not buy them right now until things get sorted out.
If you have them, I think the likely scenario is the battery will die on you at some point. If you want to continue using it, the key things to remember are:
- charge them in a fire proof bag or container.
- do not leave it charging for long periods. UNPLUG it when it is done.
- check the wires for for any fraying or shorting
- store them, disconnected in a safe place. outside, on concrete, in barbecue grill, in fire proof bag are some of the suggestions.
I have bought several jetlites and they are the new value by far. They are the brightest and only cost 2-300 dollars. And awsome CS - made locally in Reno by mountain bikers. He a-51 seems like the best way to go if you only can spend 200 dollars. If you have 300 - get a true 1000 lumen blast HID.
I have bought several jetlites and they are the new value by far. They are the brightest and only cost 2-300 dollars. And awsome CS - made locally in Reno by mountain bikers. He a-51 seems like the best way to go if you only can spend 200 dollars. If you have 300 - get a true 1000 lumen blast HID.
Re: Magicshine battery only from geoman? Not from Nova Bike Lights
francois: I spoke with mmanuel09 about this. He has one of the defective batteries (has a pair of magicshines too). His setup is clearly unique to mine with the bottle like cloth holder, he noted reduced run times and had a battery go out during the ride (but it was older). I picked mine up from Nova Bike Lights, not from geomangear. The seller just received a new shipment. The battery is the same size but is covered in a silicone body cover. My run times have been over 3 hours, I'm not charging them until prior to the 3rd night ride and even then, only been able to reach red on cumulative 4-hour total run times. The lighting has been consistent so am curious as to defective batches versus non-defective from different middlemen/ suppliers.
Some details about my model: 4 Mode MJ-808, silicon rubber sealed battery with "improved wiring" for cold weather, a canvas like battery pack holder with twin straps. And this from the sellers site: "The MagicShine batteries were of poor quality but since the stock of 11/9/10, batteries are from a UL and CE approved supplier with better quality."
p.s. please karma god, knock on wood, do not spontaneously combust the battery!
Thanks so much for doing this! I just bought a headlight but look to return after reading through this. So my big question: If you had $300-$350 to spend...what is the must have light? I am using in unison with handle bar (which i already own) and will just use for DH portion of ride but should give me 2 hours. I like light light and either self contained or all living on helmet sounds good.
Thoughts? Really appreciate it bro man.
By the way...dropping post: I got the new Rock Shox Reverb...SIMPLY AWESOME. Clearly a quality product.
Thanks so much for doing this! I just bought a headlight but look to return after reading through this. So my big question: If you had $300-$350 to spend...what is the must have light? I am using in unison with handle bar (which i already own) and will just use for DH portion of ride but should give me 2 hours. I like light light and either self contained or all living on helmet sounds good.
Thoughts? Really appreciate it bro man.
By the way...dropping post: I got the new Rock Shox Reverb...SIMPLY AWESOME. Clearly a quality product.
Yeah, it is the Piko or the Exposure Diablo XPG if we're talking about helmet. Piko was my favorite because it is soooooo cool and the Diablo only lasts one hour on high.
But the Diablo is:
- 110 grams complete, self contained.
- 900 lumens legit (and 63 lux on our light meter)
- lasts 3:24 hours on medium setting at about 400 lumens or 29 lux on our meter
- can use it as a flashlight every day!!!!!
- USB charging and optional external battery.
- $250
It is very important to check how your bar light and helmet light blend and complement each other. They all needs to get along.
Wow, love the beam shots. The fact that you pick or mouse-over the beam that you feel is best, and then the mouse-over reviling the light is perfect! GREAT WORK!
For someone who rides too much in the dark, I can NOT overstate just how important beam pattern and color temperature is to riding fast in the dark are. And lights like the LM that allow you to go from the lowest to the brightest setting and back with one touch is also an important and sometime under appreciated feature. Keeping your eyes dilated in the dark is helpful. So climbing under the lowest setting when you are often out of the saddle and being splashed by light spillover, then descending under the brightest really seems to help. Having a very even beam pattern helps your eyes identify irregular items in road or trail.
If my choice is is between Lums and beam - I'd choose beam or light QUALITY every-time! That why your beam shots are so helpful!
Thanks,
Jt
the owner of way more lights than any one person should ever admit to ;-)
You're quite the salesman, Francis, I ordered a Piko and it's due here tomorrow! Seriously considered the Jetlites A51 and the Strykr too, but that Piko was just too sexy/light/compact/quality besides a price for a Lupine I can live with. Not sure what'll go on the bar now, but I've got a few to experiment with.
You're quite the salesman, Francis, I ordered a Piko and it's due here tomorrow! Seriously considered the Jetlites A51 and the Strykr too, but that Piko was just too sexy/light/compact/quality besides a price for a Lupine I can live with. Not sure what'll go on the bar now, but I've got a few to experiment with.
You get a bunch of old german ladies to make you one! Duh...
Now here's the back story behind the photo. A month ago when I got the Piko I mentioned on the light forum that Lupine is normally expensive because a bunch of old german ladies hand craft them.
Well Lupine saw my post and staged this photo to prove me right
Here's the mount. It's sleek and it center mounts the light. What's really cool about it is it holds the light with two rubber grommets under perfect tension when the bolt is tightened. Thus the light can be aimed up and down with ease.
Fc The only drag about the setup shown, is that people who ride with power generally mount it forward about were your light is. This is so that one can easily monitor the display when out of the saddle and pressing forward. 500's and PT head units aren't to big, but some people use the 800 or 705. When using a small pack like on a LM200L, I usually mount it under the stem.
Fc The only drag about the setup shown, is that people who ride with power generally mount it forward about were your light is. This is so that one can easily monitor the display when out of the saddle and pressing forward. 500's and PT head units aren't to big, but some people use the 800 or 705. When using a small pack like on a LM200L, I usually mount it under the stem.
The Head unit needs to be mounted as far forward as possible in order to monitor the display easily when out of the saddle and working hard. The light mounted were it is in the photo, will kinda interfere with the prime location for most head units sans the SRM display. Even if you aren't using power. Many people mount their GPS on the stem. This really isn't any clearer is it?
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