Xtr trail brakes, replacing leaking shimano hose.
I have a set of xtr trail brakes around 5 months old that have developed leaks where the hose is crimped to the banjo nut. Seems it is a pretty common problem with the new xtr brakes. Has any one used the Goodridge shimano brake hose replacment kit? I see it works for older shimano xtr's but cant confirm if they work for the new xtr trail brakes?
i installed kit #108 with my XT M785s the other day and the kit works just fine. I never experienced leaks at the banjo. However, the rear caliper had a leak at the seam where the two-piece calipers come together. I torqued the banjo bolt to 10 n-M per Shimano's spec and the leak was still visible. I have sent the caliper back awaiting a replacement. I will be installing the Goodridge lines when I get the replacement caliper
- 2014 Turner DHR
- 2011 Mojo HD
- 2006 Enduro Pro (Some a$$hat stole it!!!)
- 2004 Demo 9 DH
- 2007 Titus Motolite
I did some inernet searching and found that Jagwire makes caliper and lever hose fittings for the new Shimano xtr brakes. I purchased Jagwire part#HFA306 and some Jagwire hyflow universal hose to replace my stock shimano leaking hose. I heard of some people sending thier shimano xtrs in for a warranty repair of leaking hose only to have them leak again. I want to avoid that, so Im just going to replace them with the Jagwire stuff and see how it goes.
I installed the Jagwire hyflow hose on my xtr trail brakes to replace the leaking crimp on the stock shimano hose and the leaks are gone! I did a brake bleed after the hose replacement and found the yellow pad spacer for bleeding was setting the pads to far into the caliper making the lever have to much throw before they would grab the rotor making for a firm feeling lever but didnt give full power. To fix that I removed the wheel, squeezed the lever just a little to bring the pads out some then reinstalled the wheel and that gave me really firm hard levers. My front pad was contaminated with oil from the leaking hose so I used this trick and was able to burn the oil out of the pads.
1, burn both pad surfaces on stove top for 20 seconds, then let cool.
2, once pads cooled, rub pad surfaces together with alot of pressure for 30 seconds.
3, burn pads again for 20 seconds, leave pad surface burnt and reinstall.
4, brake the pads in like you normally would.
My front brake was very weak from the oiled pad almost having no power, after I burnt the pads my front was so strong it can easily make my back tire come off the ground even with my 180lbs over the back tire.
Last edited by fuenstock; 04-15-2012 at 07:42 PM.
Do the Jagwire Hyflow fittings only fit Jagwire hose? Is the fault is with the Shimano hose as well as the banjo fitting?
I discovered oil leaking from where the hose enters the banjo on my front brake whilst preparing for a ride last weekend. Oil had contaminated my new pads as well (pads are one ride old, brakes about 6 months old) so had max of about 15% front braking for the ride. Might try that bake technique to bring the pads back to life. Worth a try!
Oh, BTW my brakes are 2012 XT M785's.
You will need Jagwire part number HFA306(new Banjo for 2012 xtr & xt brakes). You also need to buy Jagwire universal high flow hose to use with the new Jagwire banjo. 1 hose package is enough for both brakes. The jagwire universal high flow hose comes in a bunch of different colors.
My front and rear xtr brakes both leaked where the hose was crimped to the banjo like yours are doing. Since you'll have every thing to replace both front and back hose I would do so. My front leaked right from the start and the back started leaking a month later. You can test for crimp leaks by squeezing tight the brake lever with a zip tie for 2-3hours and then check the hose crimp for oil.
I tried every thing to bring my oil contaminated pads back to full power (iso alcohol, sanding, brake cleaner) and that burn technique I posted worked the best by far. Make sure you leave the brake pads burnt and black when you reinstall them. I tried cleaning them first and it didn't work as good as leaving the pads black. After burning the oil out of my pads they went from 10% power to 100%.
Heres a Jagwire install video, take your wheels off so the rotors dont get oil on them. I didn't need any of their special tools.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/4vJv9xvb-8U" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Since you're obviously quite familiar with XTR trail brake sets, I have an issue with mine that no body seems to have a handle on.
I noticed this on my XT brakes as well, and that is when applying pressure to the lever there is a slight resistance at first, then as you go through the lever travel a bit, it releases and performs normally. Also, when releasing the lever it doesn't quite go back to "fully open". A flick of the finger is required to position it back to fully open. When the brakes were new, I had none of this, but now that there is ~300+ miles on them it's starting to show up. As I said, I experienced this with the XT's I had previously, but after maybe ~500+ miles. It get's pretty annoying when you want to just "feather the brake" in some tight twisty's.
Any ideas what's going on? BTW, there is no leakage that can be seen, and they function well.
Do your levers have Servowave?
There is NO "servowave" identifier, just a small "freestroke" lettering.
Originally Posted by bad mechanic
any updates on this thread?